HDS30-25, trip log, Antarctica - Whale watching discovery and learning voyage

Our polar adventure began in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, nestled between majestic mountains and the famous Beagle Channel. Having travelled from all parts of the globe, we eagerly boarded Hondius, our state-of-the-art expedition vessel, which would be our home for the next ten days.

Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by the expedition and hotel teams, who guided us to our cabins and helped us settle into our new surroundings. This was followed by a mandatory safety briefing in the lounge, where we learned how to wear lifejackets, were introduced to the lifeboats, and had our first interactions with the 174 other guests onboard.

As Hondius slowly pulled away from the dock, it gracefully turned southeast and began its journey along the 150-mile (240 km) Beagle Channel. During this time, we gathered again in the lounge for the Captain’s welcome introduction, accompanied by a celebratory toast to mark the start of our journey.

Next, we met Pippa, our Expedition Leader, and her team of expert guides, who shared their knowledge and deep passion for Antarctica, sparking excitement for the days ahead.

The day concluded with a delicious buffet dinner in the restaurant, followed by an evening spent outside on the bow and open decks — but not for long. As we sailed further toward the open ocean, with anticipation of the big swell in the coming days, our Doctor, Jaye, shared her best tips and advice as we prepared for the expected 5-metre waves, making for an interesting start to our expedition!

As we left the American continent, bound for Antarctica, we set course south and overnight we started the crossing of the Drake Passage. This is a famous body of water that separates the southern tip of South America and the Antarctic peninsula. The weather forecast was not very auspicious. We knew we were going to encounter waves of at least 4 metres high and winds over 50 knots. Consequently, we prepared our ship for those conditions and as predicted, overnight we started to feel the wind and the swell. Our ship rocked, pitched and rolled and as we went further south we were awakened occasionally by the violent moves due to the swell.

Our first morning onboard came with various types of weather, with rain, fog and wind each following in repetitive patterns.

Immediately after breakfast we had our first meeting. This one was dedicated to the smallest people we have on board: about a dozen kids. To ensure their safety and that of their families, our expedition staff organised this gathering. In the middle of the morning we had our first presentation, given by our on board Cetacean expert, Marijke. In her presentation, Marijke provided a comprehensive review of all the major whales that can be seen in the area where we are heading to. As a world expert, Marijke explained in plain language some of the biggest characteristics not just to identify the most relevant whale specimens but also some of the details of their lives. From Minkie Whales to Humpbacks, from Blue Whales to Orcas, she made emphasis also on the human activities that may affect their lives and how our human activities may change forever the habitat of these large creatures. The presentation ended around midday and shortly after, we all enjoyed our lunch on board.

Aiming to prepare our guests for the encounters with the landscapes and wildlife, in the afternoon, Matt provided a presentation about photography. So after enjoying of a great lunch and a good coffee or tea, we learned the very basics of this trade. From tips about how to frame images to more advanced knowledge on how to bring the right settings of ISO, exposure time and aperture, aiming to achieve the perfect pic.

Our session in the afternoon was led by Andrew, our expert ornithologist. With a great sense of humour and a passion about his topic, Andrew explained in an amenable way the major birds that we may encounter along our voyage. He put special attention to explain the major characteristics such as size, plummage and biological characteristics of these incredible adapted birds. We learnt about the magnificent Wandering Albatross, the Wilson's Storm Petrel and many other incredible birds that populate the Southern Ocean.

By the end of the day, we had our daily recap. Pippa showed us the plans for the next day at sea and the weather - which surprisingly seemed to be better. Our staff surprised our guests with great stories. Gabi shared with us the origin of our ship's name. It turns out that Hondius was a Dutch cartographer! With Aitana we learnt about the ocean's waves, created after the relentless action of wind upon water. After dinner we still could see lots of guests in the lounge and bar enjoying themselves, chatting and exchanging traveller's stories.

As the darkness came, we continued sailing south bounded. For a few brief moments we had the chance to see patches of blue skies above a bank of fog. Some stars shone also briefly, just to disappear into the clouds. We are all so excited and thrilled about what's coming next!

Hondius is sailing towards Antarctica, making good time. Outside, the weather is greyish, and the waters are calm — perfect conditions to take in the vastness of the Southern Ocean. The anticipation grows as we inch closer to the White Continent.

After a hearty breakfast this morning, we kicked off the day with the mandatory IAATO briefing — an essential part of responsible exploration. Lucia took us on a deep dive into the world of Antarctic penguins, sharing fascinating insights into their daily struggles and triumphs on the icy shores. Just as her lecture wrapped up, excitement spread across the deck — two Fin whales surfaced close to the ship! For those outside, it was a breathtaking first encounter with these giants of the ocean, their sleek forms slicing through the steel-grey waters.

The Galley team, led by Head Chef Ralf, prepared a delicious lunch buffet that had us all rushing to the restaurant. Rose and her team made sure we had everything we needed, ensuring a warm and welcoming dining experience.

As we near Antarctica, preparations intensify. Biosecurity checks are crucial, so we meticulously inspected our outer layers for any stray seeds or burrs. Our Zodiac life jackets were test-fitted, a tangible reminder that soon, we would be in the most pristine place on Earth.

Then, an unexpected delight — ice cream in the lounge! Big scoops in crisp waffle cones, the perfect prelude to the "Ice Ice Baby" lecture by Aitaina, who had us fully engaged in the science of ice. Who knew ice could be so complex?

Meanwhile, on the bridge, Captain Ernesto and his skilled team navigated us toward Deception Island — a surprise detour! We gathered at the bow and bridge to watch as the Hondius was expertly guided through the narrow entrance into the flooded caldera of this active volcano. Great views and lots of wildlife around, fur seals lounging on the black volcanic sands, and the first Chinstrap penguins of the voyage, their distinctive markings making them easy to spot among the rocky slopes. Kelp Gulls wheeled above, while Antarctic Shags and Giant Petrels dotted the shoreline. Snowy Sheathbills flitted about, their white plumage a stark contrast against the dark volcanic rock.

A full 360-degree circuit inside the caldera, taking in the eerie beauty of this natural harbour, and then we sailed out, with an extra pass by the towering basalt formations before setting our course for the Antarctic Peninsula.

As we sailed on, daily recap informed us about tomorrow’s plans and the staff took a quick dive into oceanic science with a recap on the Antarctic Convergence — where cold, nutrient-rich waters mix with warmer sub-Antarctic currents, creating an oceanic boundary teeming with life.

Dinner was a feast, a fine dining experience that capped off the day with perfectly composed dishes from the Galley team. Every bite a delight, every moment shared at the table adding to the adventures of the voyage.

But the day wasn’t over yet! Eduardo, our onboard astronomer, delivered an evening talk that had us looking skyward with renewed wonder. His passion for the stars was contagious, and even though we were in one of the most remote places on Earth, he reminded us that we were part of something much, much bigger.

As we turned in for the night, the gentle hum of the ship and the promise of what lay ahead lulled us to sleep. Sweet dreams — tomorrow, Antarctica awaits!

Well, Antarctica sure knows how to make an entrance.

We kicked things off in Fournier Bay this morning, and it felt like the whales had been waiting for us. Each zodiac had its own group of humpbacks — and they were very interested in us. Spy hopping left and right, popping up like curious toddlers playing hide and seek. At one point, it felt like we were the ones on display.

After a hearty lunch we cruised over to Neko Harbour for our first continental landing. Stepping onto the actual Antarctic continent was a moment we won’t forget — snow crunching underfoot, penguins waddling past like they owned the place (which, to be fair, they kind of do).

The scenery was unreal— massive glaciers rising from the sea, cliffs dusted in snow, and that classic Antarctic stillness … until the glacier let loose. A thunderous crack, a splash, and jaws on the floor. We all saw it coming, but still jumped like it was the first time.

Gentoo penguins kept us entertained, as always — slipping, sliding, bickering over pebbles. Nature’s comedians in tuxedos. Oh, and a sharp-eyed few spotted something special: a melanistic gentoo penguin, dark as night and just as cool. Like the goth cousin at the family reunion.

To top it all off, we celebrated St. Patrick’s Day in true expedition spirit — with music, laughter, and maybe a few green-themed surprises. Who needs a pub when you have the Drake Passage behind you and glaciers out the window?

An epic first day. Whales, penguins, calving glaciers, and a party. Antarctica, we’re off to a good start.

After a hearty breakfast, the morning began in the tranquil, snow-covered expanse of Danco Island. The weather was calm, with the soft whisper of the wind barely disturbing the quiet. The pristine white landscape was mesmerising, with the mountains looming in the distance and the icy waters reflecting the pale blue sky.

We set foot on the island, greeted by the curious gaze of hundreds of Gentoo penguins. Their tuxedo-like plummage gleamed against the snow as they waddled around, hopping and sliding on the icy surfaces. The air was filled with the sound of their soft calls and the occasional squawk as they interacted with each other in their lively colonies.

We also boarded a zodiac for a cruise around the island. The icy waters were dotted with floating icebergs, their jagged edges reflecting the sunlight. As we navigated the waters, we witnessed the raw power of nature: leopard seals hunting penguins. The sleek predators glided through the water with precision, making the penguins scramble for safety. It was an awe-inspiring yet humbling scene, reminding us of the delicate balance in this frozen world.

Afterwards, the adventure reached a whole new level with the Polar Plunge — the unique, exhilarating opportunity to take a dip in the icy waters of Antarctica. The anticipation built as we suited up in our gear, the cold air biting at our skin as we prepared for the ultimate challenge.

Stepping onto the rocks of the beach, the icy waters of the Southern Ocean stretched out before us, a deep, almost surreal blue beneath the overcast sky. The air was frigid, but the energy among the group was electric. There was a mixture of excitement and nervous laughter as each of us braved the plunge.

And then... the moment came. With a deep breath and a rush of adrenaline, we dove into the freezing cold waters. The shock of the cold was instant — it felt like a thousand needles pricking the skin, but it was also refreshing in a way only the Antarctic waters could offer. The water, so cold it took your breath away, made it feel as though time itself had frozen for that one brief moment.

As we emerged from the water, shivering and grinning, there was an undeniable sense of accomplishment. Not everyone gets to say they’ve swum in the Southern Ocean, especially in the heart of Antarctica! Wrapped in towels and quickly back into the warmth of our gear, we couldn’t help but feel a deeper connection to this incredible, remote place.

It was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences, a true rite of passage for anyone visiting this frozen wonderland.

After the Polar Plunge, we headed back to the ship for a much-needed warm lunch. The cosy dining room felt like a refuge from the cold, with the crew serving up hearty, comforting dishes that refuelled our bodies after the exhilarating dip. As we sat together, the conversation buzzed with excitement about the plunge and what was to come next. The snow outside began to intensify, transforming the landscape into a soft, white blur as we sailed towards our next destination.

After lunch, the snow had lightened up just enough for another zodiac adventure — this time, into the stunning Paradise Bay. As we slid into the frigid waters once more, the snowflakes began to fall intermittently, adding an ethereal quality to the already surreal surroundings. The bay was quiet, save for the occasional call of wildlife and the gentle splashing of the zodiac against the water.

We cruised through a maze of towering icebergs, their massive forms floating majestically on the icy waters. Some were smooth and rounded, while others had jagged peaks, almost like frozen castles. The sheer scale of the ice around us was awe-inspiring, and the quiet snow created a peaceful atmosphere as if time had slowed to a crawl.

Our zodiac also brought us closer to Brown Station, an Argentine research station nestled along the bay. The station, built into the rugged landscape, looked both out of place and perfectly at home in the harsh surroundings. It was a reminder of the scientific and exploratory missions that continue in this remote part of the world. We marvelled at its position, surrounded by ice and towering mountains, a testament to human resilience in one of Earth’s harshest environments.

After the zodiac cruise, we returned to the warmth and comfort of the ship. The day’s adventures had left us with stories to share and a deep sense of awe for the majestic landscapes we had just experienced.

As the evening settled in, the day’s chill slowly gave way to a cozy atmosphere on board. The perfect way to end our Antarctic adventure for the day? Movie night! We were treated to a classic movie — Happy Feet, the delightful tale of a little penguin who just can’t stop dancing. It felt like the perfect choice, as we had spent the day among real penguins in the wild.

Tomorrow, who knows what wonders we would encounter in this unspoiled corner of the Earth? Whatever it was, we were ready.

Today was an unforgettable day filled with incredible wildlife encounters and stunning Antarctic scenery. We began the morning with a leisurely breakfast, but as the weather conditions weren’t favourable, the planned morning operation was unfortunately cancelled. However, the silver lining quickly appeared — we encountered a large group of whales, offering us a breathtaking spectacle to start the day. The whales were a welcome surprise, and despite the unpredictable weather, we found some shelter and continued our adventure. Later in the morning, we embarked on a zodiac cruise in the stunning Wilhelmina Bay. The scenery was nothing short of magical, with towering glaciers and ice formations surrounding us. The bay was teeming with wildlife, and we were fortunate enough to observe more whales and seals basking in the icy waters.

For lunch, we gathered together to share a delicious meal, refuelling for our afternoon activities. Afterwards, we made our way to Portal Point for a split landing, marking our last step on the Antarctic continent for this expedition. We were lucky enough to witness Chinstrap penguins in their natural habitat, and the ice formations around us were nothing less than spectacular, creating a serene and awe-inspiring atmosphere. The whales we had been seeing all day continued to make their presence known, adding to the magic of the moment.

As the evening approached, we gathered on deck for a barbecue, which was a fantastic way to wrap up the day. Guests and crew mingled, enjoying the food and the company, while the atmosphere was full of laughter and camaraderie. The night took a fun turn as we danced with the guests in the bar, celebrating our time together in one of the most remote places on Earth. It was a perfect end to a day filled with adventure, wildlife, and unforgettable memories.

We awoke to the sound of our expedition leader Pippa's voice at 7:00am. The cold, crisp air of Kayak Bay greeted us as we peered out of our cabins, and for the first time in days, the clouds parted to reveal clear blue skies above. It was a rare sight, and the excitement in the air was palpable.

After a hearty breakfast, we bundled up and hopped into the zodiacs for an unforgettable cruise. We glided through the serene waters of the bay, navigating the narrow Freud Channel, surrounded by towering glaciers and ice formations. And then, a surprise—there, sitting proudly on a small iceberg, was a fur seal, basking in the morning sun. It looked so regal, it could’ve been posing for us.

The real magic, however, happened as we ventured further. Humpback whales! There were a couple of them in the area, and as if they knew we were watching, they began to breach—leaping from the water in graceful arcs that took our breath away. Some of us were lucky enough to catch the whole show. Their sheer size and elegance left us in awe.

Our zodiac continued to weave through icebergs, their sharp edges and blue hues creating an ethereal landscape. We rounded the front of a massive glacier, the ice creaking and groaning as we passed. Then, to our delight, a hotel boat appeared on the horizon, offering steaming cups of hot chocolate delivered directly from one zodiac to another. In Antarctica, even the little luxuries feel like a special gift.

Back aboard the ship, we refuelled with a well-deserved lunch. Today’s menu? Burgers—comfort food that hit the spot after a morning full of adventure. With full bellies, we turned our attention to the afternoon. The captain slowly began steering the ship north, our journey toward Ushuaia officially underway. We were leaving Antarctica, but the day wasn’t over yet. Eduardo, our resident astronomer, gave an incredible lecture on the scientific wonders of Antarctica — its ecosystems, its climate, and the stars that shine so clearly here in the Southern Hemisphere. The wealth of knowledge he shared was nothing short of fascinating.

As the evening settled in, we gathered for our daily briefing, learning about tomorrow's plans. The excitement of the trip was far from over. We capped the day with an unforgettable dinner, expertly crafted by our chef Ralf. As we tucked into dessert, there was a sense of shared wonder in the room — we had explored one of the most remote places on Earth, and today, we had truly felt its magic.

Today marked the first day of the return journey to Ushuaia. The night had been pretty rough and the sea was still a bit rocky in places but not too bad and soon the aft decks were opened.

Some speedy hourglass dolphins zoomed by during breakfast. Soon to be followed by three species of albatross: the Wandering, the Grey-headed and the Black-browed albatrosses. The first lecture commenced at 10:00am presented by Meike, who captivated the audience with her knowledge about these mighty albatrosses, with wingspans spanning up to 3.5 metres, leaving a lasting impression on us all.

Our expedition guide, Will then invited us to his lecture about the ‘forgotten’ Polar Explorer Tom Crean who managed to reach South Georgia together with Shackleton after their disastrous mission in Antarctica. After Will’s lecture we passed by a series of rather stunning icebergs – with different colours of blue and with beautiful shapes.

After lunch it was time to return the boots, rented equipment, and waterproof orange backpacks. All boots were checked and most were found to be properly cleaned!

The hotel department provided lovely snacks for everyone to enjoy a moment of relaxation and before we knew it, it was time for Andi to share her knowledge about krill. We learnt that without krill, life in Antarctic would not be the same – it truly is the cornerstone species of the Southern Ocean! In the meantime, outside, some of the ship’s followers included Soft-plumaged petrels, Antarctic prions, blue petrels and black-bellied storm-petrels. Tiny creatures of the Southern Ocean and all relying on a healthy ecosystem in these challenging waters.

As the day ended, it was Carina who told us all about the Hondius, for example who take care of our best friends - the Zodiacs - and last but not least we gathered some info about the bridge and where exactly is that (tiny) steering wheel!

We then gathered in the lounge for our recap. Pippa briefed us on tomorrow's plan and weather. Following her, George told about the baby-boom in Antarctica. Marijke played some Weddell Seal sounds and Andi explained why there are no polar bears in Antarctica. We also got to admire a huge humpback whale juvenile made out of cloth! Just like the ones that were spyhopping next to our zodiacs.

The evening program included the photo competition where we could admire all those beautiful photos from the past days. We then participated in an entertaining Antarctic Quiz! We all sat down in small groups and we did rather well.

The morning broke aboard the ship as we made our final leg of the journey towards the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel, the last stretch of our Antarctic adventure. With the goal of returning to Ushuaia, the excitement of coming home was tempered by the swells and the inevitable sense of melancholy that this incredible journey was nearing its close.

That day was our final sea day, and it was clear from the increasing pitch and roll of the ship that many sought refuge in their rooms, battling seasickness or simply opting for some much-needed rest. Despite the conditions, the lecture program continued, offering a welcome distraction and opportunity for learning amidst the unsettled seas.

Edu led the first session of the day with his thought-provoking lecture on the Anthropocene, exploring the changing climate of our planet and the profound human impact on its ecosystems. His insights into how humanity had shaped the Earth’s environmental landscape were both eye-opening and sobering, making us reflect on our collective responsibility for the future.

Following Edu, Gabi delivered a captivating talk on the life of Jackie Ronne, the first American woman to overwinter in Antarctica. Gabi’s storytelling brought Jackie’s incredible story to life, detailing her pioneering spirit and the challenges she faced in one of the most inhospitable places on Earth. It was a tale of resilience and bravery that left the audience in awe.

The afternoon session featured George’s lecture on the future history of Antarctica, a fascinating look at the ongoing challenges facing the Antarctic Treaty System. As global climate change accelerated and geopolitical tensions rose, George’s presentation delved into the difficult decisions that would shape the continent’s future. What would become of Antarctica in the coming decades? Would it remain a peaceful and protected zone, or would new pressures alter its course? It was a compelling topic that kept us all thinking.

As the day unfolded and the swells began to ease, we found ourselves entering the more sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. The rolling motion of the ship subsided, and with it, the general mood lifted. To mark this transition, we were treated to a Captain’s Toast, a celebratory moment where we raised our glasses to the experiences shared, the adventures taken, and the memories made.

Then, Aitana presented a beautiful slideshow presentation that encapsulated the incredible journey we had all been a part of. From the frozen expanses of Antarctica to the vibrant wildlife and stunning landscapes, Aitana’s presentation brought our journey to life once more, reminding us of the sheer magnitude of what we had seen and done.

As the evening wore on, we sipped our drinks and chatted with fellow travellers, reliving moments of awe and wonder. Some of us stayed on deck to watch as the ship, now guided by the harbour pilot, slowly manoeuvred into Ushuaia's port. The ship's lights reflected on the calm waters, and we knew we were finally home. The late hours found us gathered together, a sense of fulfilment settling over us as the ship docked at the port. Our adventure in Antarctica may have been over, but the memories would stay with us forever.

We heard Pippa’s gentle Scottish accent for the last time as she delivered the wake-up call. At 7:30am, we placed our suitcases outside the cabin and headed to the amazing buffet breakfast for one final feast. This trip has been truly unforgettable, exceeding all expectations. Leaving the ship was a bittersweet moment, but we’re hopeful that one day we’ll return for another adventure. After bidding our final farewells to the incredible staff and crew, we stepped off the ship and into the wide world, ready to take on whatever comes next.