HDS31-25, trip log, Atlantic Odyssey

Our Atlantic Odyssey beguins in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, nestled between majestic mountains and the famous Beagle Channel. Having travelled from all parts of the globe, we eagerly boarded Hondius, our state-of-the-art expedition vessel, which would be our home for the next ten days.

Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by the expedition and hotel teams, who guided us to our cabins and helped us settle into our new surroundings. This was followed by a mandatory safety briefing in the lounge, where we learned how to wear lifejackets, were introduced to the lifeboats, and had our first interactions with the 174 other guests onboard.

As Hondius slowly pulled away from the dock, it gracefully turned southeast and began its journey along the 150-mile (240 km) Beagle Channel. During this time, we gathered again in the lounge for the Captain’s welcome introduction, accompanied by a celebratory toast to mark the start of our journey.

Next, we met Hans, our Expedition Leader, and her team of expert guides, who shared their knowledge and deep passion for the ocean, it’s wildlife and history, sparking excitement for the days ahead.

The day concluded with a delicious buffet dinner in the restaurant, followed by an evening spent outside on the bow and open decks — but not for long. As we sailed further toward the open ocean, with anticipation of the big swell in the coming days, our Doctor, Jaye, shared her best tips and advice as we prepared for the expected 5-metre waves, making for an interesting start to our expedition!

For safety reasons we stood put in the Beagle channel over night and resumed our voyage early in the morning thus avoiding the worse of the storm ahead of us. High seas are to be expected, let the adventure beguin!

As we left the American continent, bounded for South Georgia we set course south and overnight we started the crossing of the Mar Argentino, the body of water that separates the South American Continent with Isla de los Estados and the Falklands. This is rather an infamous body of water: the area is being constantly punished by strong winds and ferocious swells coming from Cape Horn.

The weather forecast was not very auspicious. We knew we were going to encounter waves at least 5-8 meters high and winds over 50 knots. Consequently we prepared our ship for those conditions and as predicted, overnight we started to feel the wind and the swell. Our ship rocked, pitched and rolled and as we went further east of the continent and we were awaken occasionally by the violent moves due to the swell.

Our first morning onboard came with various types of weather and through the morning we could enjoy of Sun, rain, fog and wind each following in repetitive patterns.

Immediately after breakfast we had our first presentation. This one under the title of "Birds of the Drake" was presented by Martin, one of our team's ornithologist. In his presentation he prepared our guests to be able to spot the birds typically seen on this teracheous stretch of water such as numerous shearwaters, petrels, albatrosses and prions. The presentation ended around shortly before midday. By 12:30 we all enjoyed our lunch on board.

Given the vast expanse of water that lies ahead of us, Aitana armed with the latest knowledge on oceanography, brought a great presentation with the title "Going with the Flow". As the oceanographer on board she described the methods used by scientists to study the ocean currents and how they have managed to find that the water below us circulates. Yes, you read well. The water of the oceans of the world circulates and mixes at this very spot wehere we are.

Our session in the afternoon was led by Hazel, who with charm and eloquence gave an introductory talk on cetaceans. With great passion about this topic, Hazel explained in an amenable way the major species of cetaceans that we may encounter along our voyage. She put special attention to explain the major characteristics such as size, colours and biological characteristics of these incredible adapted creatures.

By the end of the day, we had our daily recap. Hans showed us the plans for the next day at sea and the weather, which surprisingly seemed to be better. Our staff surprised our guests with a couple of great stories.

After dinner we had our first meeting in which our experts in cetaceans and birds reunite to discuss the species of animals seen during the day. Led by Andrew and Martin, they managed to present and discuss the types of Albatrosses seen.

As the darkness came, we continued sailing south-east bounded. For a few brief moments we had the chance to see patches of blue skies above a bank of fog. Some stars shone also briefly, just to disappear into the clouds. We are all so excited and thrilled about what's coming next!

We had gone to bed the night before expecting a rough, tough night. However, thanks to the skill of Captain Ernesto and his bridge team, many of enjoyed a relatively peaceful night. We awoke to seas that were still rough, causing us to rock and roll and remembering the ‘one hand for the ship’ rule. Because of this the decks were closed and so many of us visited the bridge to spot wildlife and look in amazement at the awesome seas.

Breakfast was, unusually, a plated service for obvious safety reasons but the food was no less delicious. Decks started to open and the wildlife watching began. A call of “Beaked Whale” came over the radio and got us all excited. Only a few people got to see or photograph the animal and the images captured left our whale experts uncertain about what we had just seen! Mid-morning, we had to come inside for our mandatory briefings on the IAATO code of behaviour in Antarctica and zodiac safety. During our absence a tiny South Georgia Diving Petrel was found stranded on one of the decks; it was collected, assessed for health and released back to the ocean by the Expedition team.

Even with extremely limited space open on Deck 5, Martin, one the Expedition Guides, was able to spot a group of approaching Hour-glass Dolphins amongst the waves and even managed some photos. After lunch we collected our muck boots from the stores and then made our way to the lounge with all our outdoor kit to be inspected under the biosecurity protocol, so vital for the protection of the extremely sensitive environment of South Georgia that we would privileged to visit in the next few days.

Back outside, the number of open decks began to increase and so did the number of bird species. Kerguelen and Grey Petrels were excellent finds, as was a Great Shearwater. Wandering, Southern Royal and Grey-Headed Albatross were joined later in the afternoon by our first Light-mantled Albatross.

The evening started with a recap of the day’s activity and the plans for tomorrow, followed by two short presentations from the Expedition Team. The conditions were still rough, so dinner was served in two sittings. After that many of us met in the lecture room for the daily wildlife review where, amongst other images, Martin was able to share his Hour-glass dolphin photos with those who weren’t lucky enough to be outside at that time.

Our day started grey and overcast, with a heavy sea running, that kept Hondius pitching and rolling. Of necessity our dining arrangements were rather constrained, but everyone was in good heart, and even within the observation lounge we had some good sightings.

Eventually it was possible to open the decks to a limited extent, safety aways being paramount, and outside were greeted with a brisk wind of 1⁰C whilst the sea was a reported 6⁰C. Nonetheless visibility was good and soon the sightings were coming in, hourglass dolphins, black bellied and Wilson’s petrels, soft plumaged petrels, and even the occasional king penguin out foraging, probably from South Georgia.

Inside, there was a diverse range of lectures. Pippa gave a lecture on the pinnipeds (seals) of Antarctica and the southern oceans, and this was followed by Will with a lecture on the heroic Tom Crean, in many ways regarded as the right hand man for Ernest Shackleton.

With our onward easterly progress, we entered a new time zone, with clocks being advanced by one hour. Naturally this shortened the afternoon somewhat, but we put it to good use. George gave an introductory talk on photography, and as the weather eased further, deck 5 was opened on the more sheltered port side, giving spectacular views as the remaining swell from the storm continued to drive Hondius forward. More birds made their appearance, including a wonderful show of no less than five light mantled albatross together, wheeling over the turbulent sea.

We put the evening to good use, our recap considering the hydrography of the Antarctic convergence which we are approaching, and the intricacies of the South Georgia flag and crest which features reindeer, an anachronism from before they were removed from the island. After dinner Andrew gave a talk summarizing the identification features of prions which are pesky things to sort at the best of times, followed by Martin discussing the distinguishing features of soft plumaged petrels and Kerguelen petrels.

Our fourth day at sea brought a welcome sense of calm after a wild night on the Southern Ocean. Winds had reached up to 70 knots and waves towered at nearly 9 meters, rocking the Hondius through the darkness. By morning, though still rolling, the sea began to settle, offering us a chance to catch our breath and dive into a full day of activities.

The expedition team delivered a brilliant lineup of lectures, keeping us engaged and excited for what lies ahead. Andrew kicked things off with a fascinating overview of the penguin species of South Georgia, painting a vivid picture of the kings, gentoos, chinstraps, and macaronis we hope to see soon. Then Aitana took us on a journey through sea ice and icebergs, explaining how these frozen giants form, drift, and eventually shape the ecosystems they pass through. Elizabeth followed with an insightful talk on the conservation of whales, shedding light on the recovery of these majestic animals and the ongoing threats they face.

Martin and George hosted a hands-on smartphone photography workshop, proving that you don’t need a giant lens to take great photos. From composition tips to light tricks, they showed us how to make the most of the cameras in our pockets. Who says you need a massive setup to capture magic?

The Traveler’s Century Club members on board had a chance to meet and connect during a casual meet-and-greet session, swapping stories and ticking off yet another remote destination on their impressive travel lists.

Just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, the bridge team surprised us all. They adjusted our course to bring us up close to a piece of ice that had broken off iceberg A23a, one of the world’s largest icebergs, which recently drifted and lodged on the continental shelf of South Georgia.

To add a touch of old-school exploration, the officers broke out a sextant to calculate the height of the ice wall. After taking multiple measurements and doing the math, the estimate came in at an astonishing 55 meters tall, a wall of ice taller than a 15-story building, floating silently beside us. The ship eased closer, and for a few moments, it felt like we were in another world. You could hear the waves crashing against the ice, and the cold wind radiating off its surface cut through even the thickest layers.

As the sun began to set, we gathered in the lounge for our daily recap, where the expedition team shared exciting plans for tomorrow’s arrival in South Georgia. Spirits are high and cameras are ready. The day closed, as always, with the daily species list, recapping our sightings and giving us a moment to reflect on the incredible diversity of life already encountered on this voyage.

Tonight, we go to sleep with the promise of adventure just over the horizon. South Georgia awaits.

The morning of March 28th was filled with long awaited excitement and the feeling of success. Hondius left Ushuaia five days prior and finally reached South Georgia after a few tough days at sea with challenging swell and wind conditions. For some, this Oceanwide Atlantic Odyssey trip had been years in the making and the moment has finally arrived. After the wake-up call from Expedition Leader Hans, guests onboard were provided with their first breath-taking views. Views of snow-capped mountains, jagged peaks towering over the shorelines, giant seabirds soaring effortlessly on our leeside, and marine life energetically leaping through the waves almost as if to welcome our arrival. Views, which some of us regard as our favourite place on earth.

We started our first South Georgia expedition day at Fortuna Bay. The name originating from one of the first whaling vessels Carl Larsen brought with him to the island to commence the bustling whaling industry. This sorrow past of South Georgia whaling would be discussed often in the days to come with plans to visit Grytviken in the afternoon, another old whaling station. However, this morning was not about the whales, it was about the penguins. For most, today was their first time ever seeing Southern elephant seals, Antarctic fur seals, and perhaps the most important, king penguins! Fortuna Bay is home to one of the largest king penguin colonies and it is a spectacle everyone must see. We landed all guests in the morning with over three hours to walk amongst the wildlife.

The king penguin colony is situated at the back of the wide glacial out washed plain, which houses beautifully braided streams lacing from the sea to Konig Glacier. Not only is the colony a sight for our eyes but also our ears! The sound of hundreds of king penguins of all ages could be thought as the symphony of South Georgia; spectacular! Fortuna is not only to be enjoyed from the land but also from the water. We dropped zodiacs in the water and had a short cruise along Whistle Cove, which offered a different perspective from the water. The young and rambunctious fur seal and king penguins had a peculiar curiosity towards the zodiacs which was simply a delight.

Above us towered the peaks of Breakwind Ridge, in front of us a plethora of species went about their daily lives, and below us kelp strongly hung onto the seabed floor while it swayed side to side with the constantly moving current. Although king penguins were the main attraction, other species we had the pleasure of seeing during the zodiac cruise and landed included: gentoo penguins, light-mantled sooty albatross, snowy sheathbill, brown skua, elephant seals and fur seals. Afrer taking the zodiacs back to the ship we endulged in a delicious lunch as the ship transisted to Cumberland Bay towards our afternoon landing, Grytviken.

Once we were in position, just off King Edward Point, we brought on representatives from the South Georgia government and the British Antarctic Survey. They checked to make sure our biosecurity requirements were being fulfilled and gave a presentation about the whale research they are conducting. We were happy to hear the ship received 100% on our biosecurity; thank you to all the guests for cleaning their gear so diligently!

Next, we headed to shore to explore Grytviken, encounter the wildlife and learn about its troubled past. It is an old whaling station, which is open to visitors to walk around the buildings and get a feel for what life was like back then. Tens of thousands of whales were caught out at sea and brought to shore here to be proceeded and sold for parts. It is a tragic history, and the feeling of sadness is undeniable when onshore at Grytviken. Guests also could explore the museum and the post office, sending numerous of post cards back home for friends and family. However, for some, the previous whaling was not the most important piece of Grytviken’s history. It is significant because is the location where Shackleton is buried. At the cemetery, guests were able to toast ‘the boss’, Shackleton where he is laid to rest and pay their respects.

Despite an ugly history, it is a beautiful place. The shoreline is littered with playful fur seal pups desperately chasing their mothers asking for food, endemic pintail ducks, as well as the towering peaks of Mt Duse, Mt Hodges, and Brown Mountain situated around the bay protecting this significant place. What a fantastic first day on South Georgia and an undeniable happiness for the ability to land twice today. The evening was spent looking through photos from the day, trying on fun souvenirs from the post office shop, and charging camera batteries in preparation for what was in store tomorrow!

Bright and early on this second day, we rose to meet second and last day in South Georgia! We have little time and much to see!

The day was shy, overcast, and took time to warm up to our presence. Gold harbour was to be our destination this morning. We stood on deck, on this true Antarctic morning, our fingertips slowly numbing as they were kissed by the fresh morning breeze. The sight of this place took over all senses, the thousands of penguins and the overhanging glacier overlooking the lagoon. But is was not be, as the waves were surging heavily on the shore, this made our chances of landing null. Hans and captain Ernesto took the wise decision to not waste more time and head due south for a more promising adventure.

We set sail as soon as the expedition team were back on board and made our way to Cooper bay. After a couple of hours on the move this welcoming bay offered sunshine and calm seas, along with breathtaking landscapes and dense wildlife.

Boarding the zodiacs for a cruise we were taken on a tour of wonders. We got to see two new species of penguins today! The chinstrap and their elegant stroll were gathered on their beach making sure the pebbles were all in order. On the other side of the bay were the Macaronis! The charismatic small angry looking penguins were delivering once again with their punk hairstyle and funny ways. Between both colonies we encountered not one but four leopard seals! A lucky shot as they are usually shy and keep to themselves.

We made a small transit to Larsen fjord where we took another zodiac ride in this narrow and mysterious channel. As we made our way in the scenic gateway, a large white glacier crowned with heavy grey clouds loomed over us. In the Fjord were many seals, we came upon an all blonde female, a rare sighting and a Weddell seal!

A we got back on board Ingrid and the hotel team welcomed us with a serving of hot chocolate on the bow as our wildlife list kept growing when a southern right whale made an unexpected appearance.

It was a short but delightful time we had in South Georgia, now let us set sail north towards the immaculate Gough Island!

The weather has certainly been kind to us! For a sea that has proved to us to have a rather stormy reputation, it was wonderful to wake up to a gently rolling ocean, patches of fog, occasional early sunlight and an overcast sky. Common diving petrels, Wilson’s and Black-bellied Storm-petrels and frequent Soft-plumaged Petrels were accompanying the vessel. Some excitement occurred when the first Sooty Albatross appeared from the fog!

After the usual delicious breakfast our brains were fed too: William started, with a heroic talk on Amundsen, explaining more about his life and what a true Polar professional he was. Pippa followed shortly after with a talk about the History of Whaling in South Georgia and the harsh conditions those early whalers had to work in and just why and how whale numbers started to tumble so fast and why some species are still not recovered nowadays.

In the meantime, Hondius continued to make good progress, clocking about 11knots, traveling on a roughly northeasterly course towards Gough Island. The sky became a little less obstructed by fog and the sea assuming a deep grey, but conditions remained settled. A few King and Macaroni penguins were briefly seen ahead of our vessel, they were pointing their massive bills in the direction of some upcoming tall blows. Some fin whales approached the Hondius within a few hundred metres!

Fur seals, now far from land, could also be seen porpoising around the ship as they hunted small fish and krill. We also had a few sightings of hourglass dolphins which were typically creating a rooster tail of water all around them as they were speeding by.

At 1430 Meike gave a talk about krill and explained the delicate and rather important role of krill in the Southern Ocean ecosystem. At 1630 Eduard introduced us to his first workshop on Astronomy ‘Looking up – astronomical and optical phenomena in the Sky on Planet Earth’.

With another recap and delicious dinner behind us, most of us headed back up to the lounge to celebrate with a glass of bubbles our 100% pass score in our biosecurity checks in South Georgia. Well done! The alcohol also helped to get us in the spirit for the South Georgia Heritage Trust (SGHT) Auction, which was brilliantly hosted by our auctioneer, George. With many items up for auction, we managed to raise over £1000 for SGHT and contributed nicely to the excellent work SGHT are doing in South Georgia.

Despite the warming temperatures (sea 9°C, air 7°C), dense fog persisted throughout the day. But that didn’t stop our activities on board, improving both our minds and bodies!

Even before the indulgences of breakfast, Elizabeth was leading a group of folks exercising, we hope vigorously, and perhaps shaking off some of the calories consumed in the previous days. Then, after breakfast, Nicole gave a talk about her experiences aboard the German icebreaker Polarstern, and subsequent work at the Neumayer station in Antarctica, both very important projects advancing our knowledge of Antarctica’s environment. This was then followed by George gaving a lecture on the complex geopolitics of Antarctica, the territorial competition between nations, and the Antarctic Treaty whereby such claims have been suspended for the term of the Treaty. We can only hope it will be renewed.

With visibility so poor, there were few sightings of wildlife but we did our best. There were various sightings of Wilson’s and black-bellied storm petrels, Atlantic and soft-plumaged petrels, and several hourglass dolphins were seen. The only whale to be surely spotted was a Sei.

After lunch, Bob gave a talk exploring the intriguing differences and similarities between the Arctic and the Antarctic, through their origins, culture, and natural history. Then Hans held a detailed briefing about our activities on Tristan, the nature of the small harbour, the various activities of interest to be had on the island and the booking arrangements.

Finally, after dinner, the evening’s wildlife roundup took the form of a photo show with contributions from many of our passengers, led by Andrew and Martin, offering identifications and various pithy comments!

This morning we woke to an increase in temperature, both air and sea temperatures were at 10ºC which was a great sign as we travelled further north east. Sadly, for the wildlife watchers this temperature increase was accompanied by more fog.

After another very tasty breakfast Bob treated us to the first of his lectures on the islands of the south Atlantic. We barely had time to go and look at the fog before Marijke gave a fascinating introduction to the little-known world of beaked whales. So little is known of these species that any records and especially photographs help to increase our global understanding of these elusive creatures.

Just as lunch started the fog cleared to reveal the horizon and a blue sky, a very welcome change from the last two days, with that came our first Spectacled Petrel, a largely brown bird but with a large, conspicuous white ring around the eye. This got all the birders excited, for some it was a short lunch and straight back out to see more birds and the hope of whales or dolphins. A few more new species for the trip were seen across the afternoon along with the fog that drifted in and out as we progressed.

During the afternoon Conrad gave us an insight into Gough Island and its wildlife followed by Eduardo, our resident astronomer, who gave another amazing lecture on sky charts and other aids to enjoy the night sky.

Before we knew it, it was time for recap and then another very enjoyable dinner from the galley team.

Dinner was followed by the wildlife meeting and in a departure from the norm, Elizabeth told us about the sea stars that live for a hundred years in South Georgia followed by Nicole who presented and explained all about the plants of the same islands.

The fog is with us yet again. The long foggy slog, playing tricks on our minds making time long when on deck but thankfully we are racing our way to Gough thanks to favorable currents and winds and our expedition team has prepared a series of activities to keep us well entertained.

Bob started in the morning with his Krill lecture, highlighting the essential role of these tiny organisms play in the balance of our planet. Antarctic krill are crucial to the Antarctic ecosystem as a keystone species, forming the base of the Southern Ocean food web and serving as a primary food source for numerous marine animals, while also playing a vital role in carbon cycling.

Early in the afternoon our Chef Ralf invited all passengers to the dinning room for a dumpling making afternoon. Our Chinese black belt dumpling making passengers took the lead and invited those for whom it was the first time and all together shared this stample of Chinese culture. In fact, making and eating dumplings (jiaozi) is a significant tradition, particularly during the Lunar New Year, symbolizing wealth and prosperity due to their shape resembling ancient gold ingots.

The dumpling making was followed by Crafternoon!! Aitana inviting those creative ones for a time where one can create, while sipping on a warm drink and talking and dreaming together.

At 4pm Elizabeth talked to us about Right whales. After spending two years on a yacht researching the impact of human activity on their population north Atlantic right whales face many threats, including entanglement in fishing gear, vessel strikes, climate change—which may alter their migratory patterns and feeding areas—and the impacts of ocean noise on their ability to communicate, find food, and navigate.

Throughout the day, birds and marine mammals gave us the show they could on account of the challenging visibility. A pod of southern long finned pilot whales payed us a visit along with many birds and sub Antarctic fur seals. A few landed on deck and we had the opportunity to see them up close.

We were awakened gently at 07.30 by Hans’s call announcing that we were still a little away off Gough Island. So began a a rather windy but memorable day experiencing the drama and wildlife of this remote and (apart from a weather station) uninhabited island.

With the wind in this direction, it clearly made good sense to find more sheltered conditions on the west facing coast of Gough, and this worked well. Initially it still looked very fresh but as Hondius neared the shores, off about a mile, it was very settled. So after an early lunch we soon went out with the zodiacs, whilst Tristan albatross’s and Great Shearwaters circled around us, we boarded zodiacs to explore. Our explorations spread between Gaggins point and the appropriately named Saddle Island, a stretch of mountaines cliffs covered in tussock grasses, with many high waterfalls tumbling into the sea. Low clouds swirling around the peaks added to the feeling of drama and mystery but the sun gave such beautiful light!

There were hundreds if not thousands of sub-Antarctic fur seals howling around the boulders, their calls echoing off the cliffs. We also had the pleasure of seeing numerous northern rockhopper penguins in small colonies dotted up the lower slopes, whilst our birders managed to get good sightings of the endemic Gough bunting/finch.

Finally, after two hours of investigating all the corners and inlets below the cliffs, we made our way back to Hondius – a lively passage as the swell was building significantly, even in this sheltered spot.

Our late afternoon was spent circling further around Gough Island. We had excellent views of the main bird species, following and circling the ship, including storm petrels and great shearwaters. We also got good views of the numerous offshore rock outcrops rising precipitously above the waves, a truly heroic scenery. Then, as we cleared the northern point of the island, the course was adjusted, and Hondius set her bow towards Nightingale Island, and Gough gradually disappeared into the clouds and mist far behind.

Today felt like stepping into another world. We landed on Nightingale Island, a place so wild and untouched it felt like Jurassic Park on steroids. From the moment we arrived, we were surrounded by countless albatrosses, soaring and nesting so close we could hear the whoosh of their wings and the clatter of their beaks. The air was thick with the sound of seabirds, a living symphony of calls, cries, and wingbeats.

The Atlantic fur seals lounged across the shoreline, some curious, others dozing. The island itself was steep, muddy, and raw, and the hike to the top was a slippery challenge, but absolutely worth it. From the summit, the island’s wild heart was on full display.

We also had the rare chance to visit the small vacation settlement for the locals on Tristan, offering a glimpse into life on one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world.

The day began foggy and mysterious, the island shrouded in low cloud. But as the day unfolded, the sky cleared, revealing Inaccessible Island in the distance and Tristan da Cunha peeking through the clouds.

This was no ordinary landing, the last time Oceanwide Expeditions made it ashore here was in 2016. Nearly a decade later, being here again was a true privilege. A reminder of how remote and unpredictable these opportunities can be.

We spent the entire day on the island, immersed in its wild energy. And just when we thought it couldn’t get better, the sunset lit the sky on fire, casting a golden glow over cliffs, birds, and sea. A surreal ending to a day we won’t soon forget.

Today we arrived at the beating heart of this remote Island group. As we rose from our rest and gazed out through the early morning mist, we observed this tiny community come to life - locals emerging from their homes and beginning their daily routines. About 250 people live in the settlement, charmingly named Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, and today, we get to walk its streets, meet its people, and explore the rugged landscape they call home.

We started the day early, fuelled by another wonderful breakfast from our galley team and aided by a sandwich or two stashed for later. Then, after customs clearance, we zipped ashore aboard our flotilla of zodiacs, landing on the small stone dock and finally setting foot upon the most remote inhabited island on the planet— a tiny green speck in the vast Atlantic Ocean. Fortunately, the sea was calm, and the approach to the island was stunning—sheer cliffs, rolling green hills, and the unmistakable silhouette of the volcano that reshaped this place back in 1961.

Once on land, groups split off for various adventures. Some headed out on a walking tour up to the volcano site, passing the Traditional Thatched House Museum, a tiny but heartfelt tribute to the island’s past. It was surreal to stand where the eruption had once driven every resident off the island—only for them to return, rebuild, and carry on.

Others explored the road west toward the Potato Patches in search of the rugged western coastline and, for a lucky few, the endemic Moorhen. The potato patches is a quirky collection of buildings, where islanders tend to their crops and spend time at their rustic holiday huts. It’s a windswept, peaceful patch of land that says a lot about the Tristanians’ relationship with nature.

In the afternoon, we wandered the quiet streets of Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, where kids waved as we passed and laundry flapped in the breeze. The post office was a hotspot—not just for postcards and stamps, but for chatting with locals. Some of us visited the school, others went fishing or enjoyed a round of golf, and a few partook in a local pint or two at the Albatross bar.

Finally, our wonderful day at Tristan came to an end as the last zodiacs whisked us back aboard Hondius where we shared stories and photos as we enjoyed a glorious barbeque on the outer decks prepared by our incredible galley team. It’s hard to describe the feeling of spending time in such a remote and resilient community, where life moves at its own pace and every face you meet has a story worth hearing.

As we reflected on our time at this beautiful island, it was clear the Tristan was no longer just a dot on a map, but a cherished memory for us all.

Today was a proper expedition day during our Atlantic Odyssey trip! We had made up some hours while underway from South Georgia to the Tristan archipelago and luckily had those hours to spare today. The plan was to spend all day near Inaccessible Island in attempt to get off the ship for a zodiac cruise or a landing. A landing has not been successfully done in over 10 years, which meant slim chances, but it was still exciting to be there and assessing conditions.

Inaccessible Island is an extraordinary uninhabited oceanic island that has remained relatively undisturbed and therefore has special conservation significance. It is home to many species, including endemic species, meaning they are only found on this specific island. It boats three endemic subspecies, one endemic land bird, and eight endemic plant species. It is also the only place where the Spectacles Petrel breeds, a species we have enjoyed for many days throughout this voyage. Inaccessible Island, as well as Gough Island, make up the Tristan Endemic Bird Area and are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Inaccessible Island is one of the few oceanic islands with no introduced mammals or other invasive species, meaning for our wildlife hobbyist onboard, this was a special site to see.

After assessing conditions, it was decided that a zodiac cruise would go ahead! Our deck team lowered the zodiacs into the water, our expedition team put a driver in each boat and headed to the gangway to collect their passengers. We had about 2.5 hours on the water to cruise in amongst the kelp beds and soaring steep cliff sides. The shorelines were littered with animal life, both marine mammal and birds. The young fur seal pups played in the water, zooming in and out of the kelp forest playground; whilst the finches and thrusts effortlessly glided from one rock to the next. The chance to see these endemic species is incredibly special for all!

After the zodiac cruise and we were all back onboard, our bridge team navigated us around the island to see the remarkable shoreline, towering cliff sides, and crashing waterfalls. A plethora of birds flocking were seen as well as a few sharks! The feeling of being in a warmer climate and heading for the tropics was clear.

In the early afternoon we say farewell to Inaccessible and headed for Tristan. We had to sadly say goodbye to Kieran and Trsitan, two local boys from the conservation group who had joined us onboard for the last two days. They were integral in helping our operations and we all send a big thank you to them! The lovely people of Tristan sent out a boat to collect them and we all waved goodbye to these beautiful islands. The ship turned it heading north bound and we started our journey towards St. Helena. Thank you Tristan da Cunha for such a warm welcome to your beautiful home!

Behind us lies Tristan da Cunha, one of the most remote and isolated inhabited islands in the world. Ahead of us lies an enormous distance, more than 2400 km which can be translated into about 6 days at sea. As we entered lower latitudes, we started to enjoy of better weather conditions and the day started with a spectacular sunrise. The horizon had plenty of cumulus clouds and we could spot some cirrus clouds above as well. Conditions seemed to be perfect for observing the sky later in the night.

Shortly after the first rays of the Sun illuminated the vast ocean and our small ship, our expedition leader woke up the ship with his traditional call. Shortly after, our team of sports led by Elizabeth and Aitana started their session of morning stretching/dancing and yoga in our lecture room. This was followed by breakfast in the dining room.

Immediately after breakfast we had the first presentation of the day. We have the privilege of having on board Conrad Glass, one of the inhabitants of Tristan da Cunha and today's morning, Conrad presented the film "The Forgotten Island; Life on Tristan" in the lecture room. Most of our passengers came to watch the film which was commented later by Conrad.

In the second half of the morning, Bob one of our marine biologists, presented the final part of his series of lectures about the Atlantic islands. With the title The Atlantic Islands - Gough to Ascension, Bob gave a comprehensive overview of the geological and ecological history of these places. He described the volcanic origin of all these islands and the unique flora and fauna that populate them.

Aiming to prepare our guests for the days coming ahead, Ingrid our Hotel Manager meet all the guests that will leave the ship in Santa Helena. Here she describe the disembarkation procedures, the setting of their accounts and what to expect from the service on board upon arrival.

At noon, and after all these presentations, we all enjoyed lunch on board.

After lunch, our expedition staff led by Hans, Hazel and Pippa organised a quick meeting to present the tours and excursions available during our time at Santa Helena. They took their time to explain some of the tours in the town of Jamestown, some of the excursions inland and some of the excursions offshore.

Eduardo continued with this workshop during the second half of the afternoon. In today's presentation he finished the description of the Solar System and the details on how to observe the planets in the sky.

By the end of the day, we had our daily recap. At this moment of the day the spirits were high and everybody on board enjoyed a magnificent sunset. The skies cleared up and the night was optimal for stargazing. Dinner was announced and quickly everybody joined the dining room shortly after 19:00.

Our last activities of the day were two offers. The first one consisted of enjoying live music in the library. This serenade was orchestrated by our guide Will who not just sings but plays the guitar very well. The second activity was stargazing, an activity offered by Eduardo who invited all passengers to join him in deck 8. For all the ones interested into astronomy this was a special night since it was the first time we could watch the stars during our trip. For the first time in our trip, and despite the crescent Moon, we could contemplate the brightest stars in the sky Sirius and Canopus, as well as the southern constellations of the Southern Cross, Centaurus, Carina and Eridanus. We could also see other constellations such as Orion, Scorpio, Virgo, Leo among others.

As the night went through we continued sailing north bounded. Illuminated by the Moon, we sailed into the vastness of the South Atlantic Ocean.

What a beautiful day! The Southern Ocean showed its calm side today, with the sun shining brightly over the ship. We started the morning with Elizabeth leading a stretching session on deck 7. The turnout was fantastic, and we all got our bodies moving with some warm-up stretches, a lively Zumba session, and a bit of meditation to center ourselves for the day ahead.

Just before breakfast, we were treated to something truly special—a pod of sperm whales swam very close to the ship. The sight of these magnificent creatures just off our bow was a moment to remember. Everyone scrambled to the outer decks with cameras in hand to catch a glimpse. It felt like a magical way to kick off the day, and the excitement lingered as we made our way to breakfast.

The sea was calm, and the temperatures were just right for enjoying the outer decks. It wasn’t quite warm enough for shorts yet—still a bit of chill in the air—but the fleece and pants were perfect for the conditions. We were moving through the Southern Ocean, and though the waters were relatively smooth, there was still a sense of adventure in the air, knowing we were so far from land.

As the day rolled on, we had our second sea day, which meant it was time to return our muck boots and red bags. It felt like another small milestone as we prepared for the days ahead. The ship’s atmosphere was relaxed, but there was a lot to look forward to, including a variety of lectures delivered by our expert staff.

Aitana kicked things off with her fascinating talk, “Does Planet Earth Have a Heart?” She dove deep into the formation of deep ocean water and the critical role Antarctica plays in the global oceanic system. Hazel followed with her own lecture, titled “Sperm Whale: The Living Submarine,” where she shared insights into the behavior and biology of these remarkable animals we had just encountered.

The birdlife today was sparse, but the Spectacled Petrels kept us company, gliding alongside the ship in perfect formation. Some even came close enough to deck 7 for a clear view, making it feel like we were part of their journey across the ocean.

In the afternoon, the St Helena tour sign-ups opened at the reception, and it really got us all excited for what’s to come. We’re getting closer to our next island destination, and the anticipation is building. Conrad also delivered a fascinating lecture on the Shipwrecks of Tristan da Cunha, sharing stories of maritime history that piqued everyone’s interest.

Later, as we reached the evening, the Southern Ocean gifted us with a breathtaking sunset. The colors spread across the horizon, and we gathered on deck to take in the view, knowing this was a moment we would all remember.

Dinner, as always, was a highlight of the day. Chef Ralf and his talented galley team never disappoint, serving up delicious dishes that kept us all satisfied and smiling. Afterward, we had our first clear night with hardly any clouds—perfect conditions for stargazing. Eduardo guided us on deck 8, using his green laser to point out the Southern Cross. It was a peaceful and mesmerizing way to wrap up the day, surrounded by a sky full of stars and the vastness of the ocean beneath us.

Today felt special. It’s hard to describe, but there's something about being here in the Southern Ocean, traveling with such a unique group of people, and enjoying the incredible atmosphere onboard. We’re all looking forward to our next destination—St. Helena—but for now, we’re content with the beauty of today’s journey.

The day dawned with a spectacular sunrise, bright Venus heralding an orange then golden glow across the horizon, until finally the sun burst through, warming all the cabins (at least on the starboard side of the ship!) And with it came sightings of flying fish, tropicbirds, signs of our approaching the tropics themselves, whilst we also had the last few spectacled petrels, representatives of the colder southern oceans. Our air temperature was now 21⁰C whilst the sea was now a balmy 25.5⁰C.

The day’s events started hilariously with Andrew’s lecture on the weird, wonderful, and extremely competitive world of birders, and the different species of birder, and why they compete and hate each other so much. By the end of the talk he had insulted pretty much all our guests who enjoyed the performance enormously. This was followed by Eduardo’s second workshop on the solar system and its planets. Everyone had been greatly enthused by a visit to deck 8 the previous night, where the planets and many stars were on full view.

The afternoon gave an insight into the mysteries of the catering system on Hondius, which is a remarkable phenomenon in its own right, most of the provisioning having been acquired in Ushuaia and required to last and maintain a very high standard through the entire voyage. Nobody better to deliver this than Ralph and Ingrid who manage the system. Judging by the number of questions at the end it certainly met with lots of interest.

Later, George gave a lecture on the intricacies of UNCLOS, the over-arching international legislation that governs nations’ activities on the open (non-national) seas, highly relevant to our position out on the open ocean, with Africa some thousand or so miles to the east. George was followed by Conrad talking about the impact of the new airport on Saint Helena, and the shift away from the regular visits of the supply ship.

After dinner a grand bingo session was held in the lounge, with prizes and popcorn no less! And whether you won something or not, fate was in the stars, so a final flourish to the day was Eduardo leading another expedition to deck 8 to explore the mysteries of the firmament.

Today was a day full of surprises, with calm waters and plenty of wildlife to keep us all engaged. We woke up to a gentle, peaceful morning as we continued our journey through the southern waters. The day started off quietly with just a few birds in the sky, but things got more exciting as the day went on.

The day began with Martin's lecture on the birds we hope to see now that we're in warmer waters. His presentation, titled ‘Boobies, Noddies, and Friends,’ was an insightful introduction to the seabirds in the region, from the distinctive boobies to the charming noddies.

Later, Meike gave a compelling presentation on the Endemic Flora of St. Helena, focusing on the recovery efforts of the National Flower of the island. Her talk helped us appreciate not just the beauty of the flora but also the ongoing conservation work happening there.

As the day progressed, we had the opportunity to join Chef Ralf for a delightful dumpling-making workshop. It was a fun, hands-on experience in the dining room, with many participants trying their hand at this culinary art.

In the afternoon, the Mini-Lecture series offered a variety of fascinating talks. Pippa shared the mesmerizing sounds of Humpback Whale Songs, while Marijke’s talk on Expecting the Unexpected When at Sea kept us all on our toes. George offered a fascinating glimpse into the world of whaling with The Last Whaler, and Hazel’s lecture on Marine Mammal Diving Adaptations deepened our understanding of these creatures' remarkable abilities.

Of course, there was also time for wildlife sightings. We encountered something truly unique — dolphins before lunch, and then during the meal, a group of cuviers beaked whales appeared very close to the ship. A pod of about 30 Short-finned Pilot Whales swam near, gliding effortlessly through the water. The crew made the decision to divert and turn the ship for a better view. It was a thrilling sight, and everyone rushed to the decks with cameras in hand, trying to capture the moment. For some, it was their first time seeing such a large group of whales, and the excitement was palpable.

In addition to the whales, we were lucky enough to spot a shark in the water, its fin cutting through the calm surface. It was a brief but thrilling encounter, reminding us of the diversity of marine life in these waters.

As the day wound down, Eduardo’s Astronomy Workshop offered a new perspective on the night sky, focusing on Asteroids, Comets, and Other Minor Objects of the Solar System. His engaging session sparked curiosity and wonder about the universe.

The evening brought us a stunning sunset, with the sky lighting up in flaming reds and oranges, reflecting off the calm waters in front of the ship. It was one of those sunsets that seemed to stretch forever, drawing everyone outside to take in the beauty of the moment.

Afterward, the usual recap session with the expedition team gave everyone a chance to share stories and reflect on the day's highlights. Dinner followed, where we all sat down to enjoy another fantastic meal together.

Conrad hosted a ‘Rockhopper Copper’ Book Sale and Signing in the library after dinner, where he signed copies of his book for eager guests.

To wrap up the day, we joined the Expedition Team for a Wildlife Roundup/Listing in the lecture room, where we went over the species we had spotted. If conditions allowed, Eduardo offered a final touch to the day with some stargazing on deck 8.

It was a day filled with wildlife sightings, captivating lectures, hands-on activities, and stunning views. A day of unique wildlife sightings, breathtaking scenery, and a calm, peaceful atmosphere. We’re all feeling lucky to be experiencing this journey together, and with St. Helena just around the corner, the adventure continues!

As day dawned several of us had got up extra early in to meet Eduardo in the hope of being able to observe Mercury & Venus before the sunrise. Being the brightest (small) object in the sky we were easily able to pick out Venus during a small break in the clouds. Unfortunately, we were not so lucky with Mercury, which was the big prize. Hey ho! – try again early tomorrow. As a kind of reward, the following sunrise was another stunner.

Once again there was broken cloud and a stiffish breeze which was disturbing the water and would prove challenging in the hunt for finding cetaceans. And so it proved with no significant sightings all day. Perfect weather, however, for the exercise group out on Deck 6 aft where Elizabeth put us through our paces – to work up an appetite for the next meal that comes around without fail!!

Inside Marijke introduced all the different species of Flying Fish – who knew there were so many? The animals themselves were increasingly being seen around the ship as we headed north in warm waters. Eduardo presented his latest workshop - this one of his favourite subjects of the NASA Voyager missions. Later, Conrad rounded off the day’s lecture programme with an introduction to St Helena – holiday island.

Outside conditions remained a little challenging and the birds were mostly remaining stubbornly distant. Nonetheless we managed to add Leach’s Petrel, Cory’s Shearwater and White Tern to our growing list of new species. Bulwer’s Petrel was probably the most common sighting.

And so to the evening when, after dinner, all of us who were disembarking in St Helena joined the Captain for his farewell to us, along with a glass of bubbly to say ‘Cheers’ to a fantastic voyage. We then were treated to a fabulous slide show from George which took us back all the way to Ushuaia and swept us to the present day with stunning images that will fuel our memories forever.

“Courage isn't having the strength to go on - it is going on when you don't have strength.”

― Napoleon Bonaparte

With these words of wisdom from the controversial great Napoleon Bonaparte we approach the Island that was his cell for the last six years of his life. Condemned to spend his last years looking at the endless horizon that pans out in any direction you look in.

But before we set eyes on this rock lost in the middle of the Atlantic, this haven of hope for lost mariners with its lush vegetation and exotic flora and fauna we sail through the warming waters over the mid Atlantic ridge and gaze on the wonders it offers.

Edu started the day with a lecture about astronomer Edmund Haley and told us about his fabulous life. Halley is famous in his own right for analyzing the orbits of comets, which he showed to be elliptical and periodic. Halley's Comet returned, as he predicted, in 1758, 15 years after his death and will return next in 2061! From an observatory he constructed on Saint Helena in 1676–77, Halley catalogued the southern celestial hemisphere and recorded a transit of Mercury across the Sun.

Shortly after George and Hazel invited us for a mini lecture series about whaling and marine mammal diving adaptation.

After a succulent lunch we headed out under the beating sin as we witnessed the shape of land upon the horizon. St Helena was there shrouded in a light cloud mantle, like a promise come true here she was. Promising fresh food, smiles and laughs, drinks and stories and a bunch of new memories.

As she grows ever bigger we notice the birds rapidly growing in number, surrounding the ship were numerous boobies, noddies and terns accompanying us towards their home as if pride to have new visitors to whom to show off their home.

Along with the bird, numerous dolphins passed by us, purposing playfully through the air and for many making dreams come true.

When arriving on St Helenas shores we notice its haric ground but soon it gives way to a lush interior, like an invitation with a paradisial quality.

As we sailed along we soon notice a large gap in the hillside with many yachts moored. Jamestown appeared slowly to us safely nestled in St Helenas bussom. This scenic colonial village will be our home for the next three days!

We woke this morning to the magnificent view of Jamestown and St Helena. This was our first full day on this magical Island. It was very warm with broken cloud and sunny spells.

For some we were out on deck before breakfast taking in the views and looking for whatever wildlife was about near the ship.

During breakfast the expedition team were already out preparing the quayside for our days activities. We were given the opportunity to make a packed lunch as many of us would be away from the ship for most of the day with the various activities and excursions.

After breakfast zodiacs were ready to take us ashore for the various walking tours of the town and the countryside. The historical tour was fascinating, the other walks out into the countryside allowed some of us to stretch our legs. Some decided to just explore alone.

There was a sad moment when we had to say goodbye to a few of our fellow guests who were due to fly out that afternoon.

A large group of birders went out to search for the Wirebird, the only remaining endemic St Helenian bird. The last census in 2024 suggested that there are around 600 individuals in the wild. It is a small, long legged plover that breeds on the grassland around the island. They were more than happy when they returned to town having found several individuals.

Some of us were taken out on a boat trip where we were lucky enough to have great views of dolphins and some of the birds on the cliffs.

After the morning activities a few came back to the ship for lunch after a busy morning but others stayed on shore. After lunch more walks took place as well as another boat trip and the first snorkellers went out on their trip. The snorkellers had the great fortune to get into the water with a whale shark! What a fabulous experience for everyone and some described it as a life changing event!! The whale shark was so confiding that even those of us on the boat trip managed to also get into the water with it.

At the end of the day, dinner was served on the back deck by way of a sumptuous BBQ with free drinks. Some of us elected to go back into town afterwards making use of the evening zodiac shuttles to enjoy the nightlife of Jamestown. Everyone was safely back on board by 11pm after a very busy day.

Another day in Saint Helena with a day full of activities or just chilling out to enjoy a walk around town. Most of us started the day with the Island’s Highlight Tour. The tour took guests through Jamestown and wove in and out of the lush green countryside taking time to note the historic points around every corner. Some of the stops along the way included Napoleons Tomb, although Napoleon himself was removed from the site in 1840 and returned to France, the Longwood House, one of the most iconic Napoleonic museums in the world, and the Plantation Grounds, which surrounds the Governor’s residence.

After the bus tour, guests were able to have lunch onboard or to head to Anne’s place for a cheeky pint and a delicious burger, and some sat in the Castle Gardens.

After lunch some of us visited the Plantation House which is the Governor’s Home. We also met up with Jonathon the famous (and very large) tortoise who lives on the grounds. He has an enormous area to roam, has several tortoise friends to keep him company and also keeps the grass trimmed as an added benefit. He is the islands oldest resident a great addition to the grounds of Plantation house. Here, the Butcher and his wife who are buried in the grounds have interesting headstones.

Others went on a snorkling trip to swim with the mighty and beautiful Whale Shark! In the mid-afternoon the Photography Storm-Petrel Zodiac cruise started and we headed out to search for seabirds. As we approached the small islands we found mating green turtles! Just a bit further offshore from the islands, we switched off our engines and simply drifted peacefully with the currents while we could photograph noddies and Saint Helena’s Storm-petrels. On our way back to the vessel, we were accompanied by rough-toothed dolphins who were bow-riding our zodiacs.

The day was not over yet! Once back onboard, it was time for a BBQ. A big thank you to our head chef and galley crew for preparing a tasty BBQ evening onboard and for hotel department provided the free drinks and music for our evening dinner!

We heard Hans’ gentle Dutch accent for the last time as he delivered the wake-up call. At 7:30am, we placed our suitcases outside the cabin and headed to the amazing buffet breakfast for one final feast. This trip has been truly unforgettable, exceeding all expectations. Leaving the ship was a bittersweet moment, but we’re hopeful that one day we’ll return for another adventure. After bidding our final farewells to the incredible staff and crew, we stepped off the ship and into the wide world, ready to take on whatever comes next.