PLA25-25, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp - free camping, kayaking, snowshoe/hiking, photo workshop, mountaineering

Today is the special day! It is finally time for us to embark upon our epic adventure! In the late afternoon we arrived to our ship, Plancius, our new home for the next twelve days. It has been a long journey for most of us, so we were glad of the warm welcome provided by the Staff and Crew, greeting us with happy ‘Merry Christmas’!

The day was cloudy and warm, the winds gentle and the sea calm. Ushuaia was good to us, some of us spent a few days exploring the area, birdwatching or simply enjoying the last opportunity for the comforting embrace of civilization before the frigid weather ahead of us.

Boarding was smooth as we trickled in one by one into our new home. Finding our rooms fresh and tidy. Gathered later in the lounge we were introduced to our expedition team and the first officer.

Later, we had to go through the mandatory emergency drill before being treated to some snacks and a customary glass of bubble after meeting our captain and the expedition team for a toast to a successful voyage.

The evening was spent navigating the Beagle channel and wonderous wildlife and landscapes, meeting our co travelers, new roommates and crew members with whom we will form a new happy family throughout the trip.

Today marked the first full day aboard the ship, and we woke up to a friendly call from Adam, our Expedition Leader, at 7:45 AM. It's been a while since someone else has woken us up, but we appreciated it—it set the tone for the day. The entire hotel team is incredibly welcoming, and we felt well cared for as we had a delightful breakfast.

The day was packed with essential briefings to prepare us for our Antarctic adventure. First, we learned all about Zodiac operations—these small boats will be our means of transport when we land on the Antarctic shores. We also attended an IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) briefing, which emphasized the importance of responsible tourism in Antarctica and the rules in place to preserve the environment. The Biosecurity briefing was equally important, teaching us how to avoid bringing invasive species or diseases like Avian flu into the pristine ecosystem.

Despite the number of briefings, everyone was engaged and eager to learn. Most passengers seemed to have their sea legs already, with only a few needing to skip meals due to seasickness.

Lunch was delicious, and right after, we got our rubber boots—an essential piece of gear for stepping onto the Antarctic land. Then came the task of cleaning all our clothes thoroughly to ensure we don't accidentally introduce anything from South America to Antarctica.

Despite a full day of briefings, we felt reassured that the region we are visiting is well-protected and taken seriously. The evening provided a lighter atmosphere with the Briefing and Recap session. Marco gave us a fascinating talk on the planet's wind systems, and Steffi shared valuable insights into the Drake Passage and its critical role in the global ocean conveyor belt.

Dinner was another treat, and we can already feel ourselves gaining weight with the delicious meals the galley team continues to serve! Some of us wrapped up the evening by sitting in the bar, enjoying the movement of the ship as we crossed the rough ocean. Not everyone loved the motion, but it's all part of the experience of understanding where we're headed—toward the wild, untouched beauty of Antarctica.

This morning the seas had eased slightly but Plancius was still rolling on the swells as she continued to steam south. We had another big round of mandatory briefings this morning, but this time they were about all the fun activities we plan to do once we reach Antarctica. We heard from the activity guides about camping, mountaineering, and kayaking.

After lunch it was time to sign up for all the activities. Everyone got their schedules sorted quickly so we ended up also putting on a lecture. Katlyn gave a lecture: Introduction to Whales of Antarctica. Almost perfectly timed as well – just as the question-and-answer session was finishing up two fin whales appeared out of the window! Katlyn sent everyone outside to enjoy the whales and closed the lecture program.

Also, we have seen Ortelius, our sister ship from Oceanwide Expedition fleet, with the similar size as Plancius is. So, we waited and waved on the passengers and crew onboard. It was such a nice encounter!

As the evening went on and we approached the South Shetland Islands, the fog closed in around the ship. We would have to wait until morning to set our eyes on the white continent.

Our first day in Antarctica!! Some of us rose to Adam’s friendly wake-up call, others were already wide awake from the early hours of the morning, gazing out into our new icy landscape in the Errera Channel. Our morning began at Danco Island, where we made a landing to observe our first penguin colonies! First down on the gangway were the mountaineering group, who were kitted out with all the gear by guides Marcos and Lucas. These guys planned to summit Danco, and no doubt had astonishing views once the morning fog cleared. The kayakers then followed next, guided by Nick who took them around the shores of the island amidst the numerous icebergs.

The rest of us headed ashore in the zodiacs to stretch our legs and to observe our first penguin species, the gentoo! We passed many ‘penguin highways’ up to the colony and remembered to give ‘right of way’ to our feathered friends as they waddled busily up and down the slopes. We witnessed many gentoo penguins in nests that they had built over the last month, made up of small pebbles carefully placed in a small mound. Some looked like they were still courting! The male gentoo attracts the female by gifting pebbles, and by “trumpeting” skyward. If a female gentoo penguin chooses a male, both sexes will point their bills at the nest the female has built. We got to witness a lot of this fascinating breeding behavior! Most of the penguins were on eggs, patiently incubating them until they would be ready to hatch, most likely in the next 1-2 weeks. The parents then switch incubation duties daily, so the other can feed at sea. This is why the penguin highways are very busy! The incubation period lasts about 35 days, and then the chicks stay in the nest another 30 days before forming crèches, a kind of ‘nursery’ for protection against the predatory skuas and giant petrels. By the time late March/early April comes around, the sea ice is beginning to set in and temperatures plummet, which is the time for the penguins to venture out to sea. So, these gentoos really need to get a move on with their courting and egg incubating, as the chicks have such a narrow window to grow their waterproof feathers and fatten up before their life in the frigid waters as a seabird begins!

After an incredible morning expedition, we were all back on board for a delicious lunch ready for our next adventure in the afternoon. Orne Islands was our next destination, where we had the chance to view another species of penguin, the chinstrap! Again, the mountaineers headed out first, this time to Gorge’s Point, on nearby Rongue Island where they scaled up the slopes to some seriously epic views. The rest of us went ashore to check out the chinstraps, while the kayakers enjoyed the surroundings.

We got to witness numerous chinstrap penguins, exhibiting the same funny behavior as the gentoos we saw earlier. The chinstraps, or ‘chinnies’ as they’re affectionately known, have a very similar breeding cycle to the gentoos, so lots of pebble gifting, trumpeting and egg incubating was observed. We even saw many gentoos taking over the chinstrap colony!

Back on board and after our daily recap and briefing, dinner was served in the dining room and our first camping trip soon began!

Kayaking:

Our first morning in Antarctica began at Danco Island in the Errera Channel, in glassy calm waters. Low clouds gradually lifted to reveal the magnificent, glaciated mountains of Rongé Island and the Arctowski Peninsula. Our team of adventurous kayakers began on the west side of Danco Island, where we paddled past Gentoo Penguin colonies to the north end of the island. On a cluster of low rocks, we observed a solitary Crabeater Seal resting above the tide line.

We gazed across icy waters towards the enormous terminal face of a glacier that tumbled steeply down from the mainland mountains. We set off towards a low moraine island, slaloming among brash ice and bergy bits into an isolated corner of the Errera Channel hidden from Plancius and our Zodiac crews. Here we paused to take in the silence and stillness of this remarkable Antarctic environment.

Heading home we followed a route past larger grounded icebergs at the north end of Danco Island, finally returning to Plancius at the end of a magnificent morning of kayaking adventures.

Our afternoon kayaking adventure took us to the Orne Islands, north of Rongé Island in the Gerlache Strait. A light NE wind rippled the surface of the sea among the islands, an ideal challenge for our basecamp kayakers. We launched on the south side of Orne Island and headed north to complete a circuit of the island. On its west side, we paused to admire a small colony of Chinstrap Penguins on the smoothy rock slabs of the snowy shoreline.

Leaving Orne Island, we paddled south to George’s Point, where we followed the NE shore of Rongé Island, along an impressive series of ice cliffs. We discovered a route through shallow water towards Cuverville Island, behind a row of large, grounded icebergs. Hidden from Plancius, we enjoyed our moments of solitude, in the presence of this powerful Antarctic environment. We departed our peaceful icy lagoon, exiting into the waters of the Gerlache Strait to paddle back towards Plancius. We transferred back into our Zodiac and returned to the security of our floating home, marveling at our wonderful journey through this icy environment.

Mountaineering:

First day’s ascent on Danco Island, with some blizzard to begin with. We luckily had the chance to see and hear a few Gentoo penguin rookeries. After the weather got better, we had fantastic views from the summit. Plancius was still hiding under the fog, but we could see breathtaking mountain faces of Ronge Island.

In the afternoon, we headed up from George Point. With snowshoes on, our long rope team began to cover some vertical meters through a mild slope up the glacier, towards Horne Point.

Later the terrain steepened even more, and we zig zag up to the higher pass. A well covered crevasse, just before the pass, added adventure to our climb.

Camping:

After dinner we prepared ourselves for our first overnight stay. At around 21:00 we got onshore with the Zodiacs. Welcomed by Marco, Chloe and Svata, our camping guides, we received our sleeping kit and a shovel and got ready to dig the snow pit which was going to be our shelter for the night.

On the shore of Kerr Point, a stunning snowy plateau beneath an impressive mountain and glacier that looked out over the ice-dotted seascape, a few Weddell seals were resting, and we would feel so privileged to share with them the night. The weather was excellent, bright sky with patches of blue amongst the high cirrus and no breeze at all. After setting up our spot and having spent time along the shoreline with lovely Gentoos and bulky Weddell seals; we snugged into our bivies and felt asleep accompanied by the roaring thunder of the nearby calving glaciers and avalanches, and the ever-present whales cruising along the Herrera channel.

The following morning, we got an early wake-up call, around 4am; wrapped up the equipment and left no trace behind. Back on the ship we got a small breakfast and a short sleep in our cabins before moving to our next location for the morning.

After the brave campers were picked up in the morning with a quick operation, M/V Plancius repositioned towards the Northeast, entering Charlotte Bay. A big embayment which penetrates towards the South for 18 km, and it is bounded on the West by the Reclus Peninsula.

The beautiful partially cleared sky of the previous night was quickly substituted by low and thick clouds, accompanied by some chances of liquid and solid precipitation. This did not deter our spirit and as soon as the ship was set at anchor and the zodiacs launched, we were ready to get out and explore the small landing site of Portal Point.

For some of us this set an important mark on our expedition since Portal Point is located in the mainland Antarctic Peninsula. A continental landing, therefore, meant for a few of us setting foot on the seventh continent. The place is characterized by the presence of the foundation of an old British hut, Cape Reclus, established in 1956 and occupied intermittently for the survey of the area during the Geophysical International year of the summer of 1957-58. It represented the portal, hence the name, to access the Antarctic Peninsula.

During the same year, polar explorer Herbert Wally, made a traverse with four other men and dog sleds from Hope Bay, located on the Tabarin Peninsula, to Portal Point in four days, helping the survey of the upper plateau of this yet unknown area.

Our landing was quite smooth and despite the poor visibility, we could still enjoy the great views that opened on top of the small circular spit of land opposite the hut’s foundations. From here the view stretched across Charlotte Bay still filled with ice floes and magnificent glimmering icebergs. We enjoyed the grandeur and immense landscape that Antarctica gifted us, while in the distance some of us spotted Humpback whales on the side of the bay.

M/V Plancius moved then to the West of the Reclus Peninsula and positioned for the afternoon activity in front of Foyn Harbor located on the eastern side of Enterprise Island. The island was the stage for our group of mountaineers that were quickly out and safely guided by Marcos and Lucas to a splendid viewpoint.

Meanwhile we enjoyed our first zodiac cruise in the channels and islands located near the shipwreck the Guvernøren. At the beginning of the XX century, this was used a floating whale factory, which was used as a port of call, the hotspot for whaling of that time located into the island of Deception. During the Christmas festivities of 1915, a fire broke out on the ship and, to salvage the cargo, the captain decided to run the ship aground into the icy and shallow waters of Foyn Harbor. Crew and cargo were rescued by another whaling ship that passed nearby, while the wreck is still visible these days and often used by sailing boats as a mooring for the night.

Antarctic shags and terns patrolled the area when we skirted with our zodiac in the narrow channels around the wreck; although the highlight of the day was the spectacular display that Humpback whales gave us on the eastern side of Bancroft Bay. In small groups of two or three, some of them resting, some others actively feeding these splendid marine mammals made a full display of their dorsal fins and fantastic flukes that we could see intermittently between one dive and the other. Despite the snowy and icy conditions of the afternoon we endured the Antarctic weather and enjoy the marvel of wildlife.

Back on the ship the day was wrapped up by our daily recap. Adam presented the exciting plan for the following day; Chloe gave us a nice introduction to seals identification and Koen taught us all we need to know regarding the photographic triangle. Dinner was served by Khabir and his skilled team, and soon we found ourselves chilling out in the lounge before our second day in the Antarctic Peninsula faded away.

Kayaking:

Our second Antarctic morning visited Portal Point at the NW entrance to Wilhelmina Bay, and the scene of our only continental landing. A light N wind rippled the surface of the ocean as we cruised in our Zodiac to a small rocky bay at the north side of Portal Point. Here we launched into our kayaks and gathered beneath the steep snow slopes of the headland. We followed the shoreline through a beautiful bay with scattered low rocks and small stranded icebergs to arrive at our landing site.

Here we beached our kayaks on flat rocky slabs, then tiptoed up the shore, where a path led up through the snow to a fine view of Wilhelmina Bay, an Antarctic flag and a celebratory photograph of our contact with the Antarctic continent. We quickly returned to our kayaks to continue our ocean adventure.

We headed deeper into the bay through a dense carpet of brash ice, towards a line of large floating icebergs. Here among these remarkably sculpted formations, we paused to take in our beautiful surroundings at the mouth of Wilhelmina Bay. We followed a route through brash ice towards Plancius, switching to our Zodiac as we drew close. At that moment, we were treated to the sight of a Humpback Whale that surfaced alongside us. Watching in awe, we enjoyed a delightful few minutes in close company with this magnificent cetacean.

Our afternoon destination at Foyn Harbour on the east side of Enterprise Island provided an excellent coastal kayaking adventure for our kayaking team. We entered our kayaks in a protected bay at the mouth of the Gouvernoren Inlet, our first exploration goal. We paddled into this narrow bay, where we arrived at the rusting remains of this former whaling ship that plied these Antarctic waters in the early years of the 20th century. Today, it is home only to a handful of Antarctic Terns and occasional human visitors.

We paddled on towards the north end of Enterprise Island, through a beautiful, enclosed bay lined with ice cliffs and seracs. A narrow passage through low glacially smooth rocks led into the more exposed open waters of the Gerlache Strait. Crossing small waves and a light NE wind, we paddled out to explore a cluster of larger stranded icebergs. We followed a channel between two well-positioned frozen monoliths, paddling back towards the shelter of the shoreline.

Heading south again, we enjoyed the company of proposing Penguins as we traversed the shoreline towards Foyn Harbour. Reveling in our adventurous experiences, we completed our circuit and clambered into our Zodiac to return to the warmth and security of our ship.

Mountaineering:

Our morning session started with a good landing spot to the right of the shipwreck in Foyn Harbor. Enterprise Island marks a solid starting point. From here, we begin our ascent, zigzagging our way upward, roped together and wearing snowshoes. The snow conditions are consistent across the terrain – deep and wet. As we gain elevation, the fog envelops us, creating a sense of unique isolation.

In the afternoon we begin on a mild slope at Portal Point, using snowshoes for about 10 minutes before roping up. Higher up, on a flat spot, we spot the crevassed area that leads to the higher plateau. Zigzagging upward and carefully avoiding crevasses, we almost reach the plateau but decide to descend due to worsening visibility.

For the early risers amongst us, we sailed through the spectacular Neumayer Channel at 6.30 in the morning, catching some good views of the dramatic cliffs! Adam’s good morning good morning good morning wake-up call was at 7.15, in time for those wanting a bit more sleep to get ready for another delicious breakfast. At 9am we headed out on a zodiac cruise to explore the Peltier Channel, a narrow 11 km long channel with stunning glacial scenery. It runs between the Doumer and Wiencke islands and was discovered by the French Antarctic Expeditions of 1903-1905. Jean-Baptiste Charcot named the channel after Jean Peltier, a French physicist.

The ship dropped us off at the southwestern end of the channel and would pick us up at the northeastern end. It started out lovely and calm, we saw a colony of blue-eyed shags with cute little chicks, clearly visible from the zodiacs. Whilst we were watching a Weddell seal swimming in the water, we heard loud thunder! It was the glacier calving behind us! Because the glacier just about terminated on land there was no wave of note that followed. As we made our way down the channel the wind started to pick up and the waves got bigger and bigger, up to a point where we were getting free showers on our zodiac ride. Especially people sitting at the front of the zodiacs were enjoying the bumpy showers, another exciting experience to talk about at home!

Back on the ship, we warmed up with a nice warm lunch with steamy soup. The weather had cleared up and we landed at Damoy point, a rocky isthmus off the west coast of Wiencke Island. On the landing site we found two huts, an orange one and one with an Argentinian flag. The orange hut is called Damoy Hut and was established by the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) in 1975 and it was occupied until 1993. Its main purpose was to function as a transit station for BAS staff and equipment to be flown from a skyway located on the glacier above the hut to Rothera Research Station, whenever access to the station by ship was blocked due to sea ice. The hut with the Argentinian flag is called the Bahía Dorian hut, and it was established in 1953 by the Argentine Navy. This hut is smaller and was mainly used as an emergency refuge.

Besides the historic huts, Damoy Point was a brilliant landing site for Gentoo penguins! With all the fresh snow that fell the day/night before, we had to put in a little bit of effort to walk around, post holing through the deep snow. It felt, however, quite good to have a little bit of a leg stretch and some exercise. The Gentoo penguins were worth it, laying on their nests, stealing pebbles from other nests and making funny noises. One penguin had even built a nest into one of the wooden boxes that was placed to hold down the orange signal triangle! Because of the fresh snow, the penguins also used their belly a lot to move from one place to another. They looked adorable walking, falling over, sliding, getting up and repeating this pattern! They managed to get around really fast this way! The penguins on the beach were also very entertaining getting in and out of the water.

After the landing we had a nice snack in the lounge, with the recap including the plans for the next day by Adam.

Kayaking:

Our day began at the south end of Doumer Island at the entrance to the Peltier Channel, with an ambitious plan to paddle north towards Port Lockroy. We took our Zodiac to Yelcho, where we launched our kayaks in the protecting shelter of a small bay dotted with curious Gentoo Penguins. As we paddled away, we could feel the building breeze that blew us down towards our first rocky headland.

Arriving in more sheltered water, we enjoyed a beautiful paddle along the east shore of Doumer Island past a series of dramatic coves backed with impressively steep ice cliffs. Low clouds partially obscured the impressive peaks of Wiencke Island on the far side of the channel. Our excellent team of kayakers sped along in an increasing wind, as we paddled through increasing rafts of brash ice.

Our kayaking adventure ended 1km before the north tip of Doumer Island, where we switched to our Zodiac and to two more that arrived from Plancius. Rounding the headland towards Port Lockroy, we battled into a sea of steep breaking waves as a steady SW wind created a cold and bouncy ride back to the welcoming shelter of our ship at Damoy Point. Our brave adventurers climbed aboard to enjoy well-earned hot showers and lunch.

After our challenging morning weather, we found partial shelter from wind and waves at Damoy’s Dorian Bay. High clouds began to clear, with the promise of afternoon sunshine for our kayaking team. We took our Zodiac to the shelter of the north-facing shore, we launched into our kayaks among a gaggle of onlooking Gentoo Penguins.

A cluster of small, stranded icebergs offered a fun natural slalom course as we paddled towards the channel at Casablanca Island. Here we found new challenges among the rocks and waves that formed in this more exposed spot. We headed back to the shelter of Dorian Bay to enjoy more icy exploration and Penguin watching. Before long, we returned to the headland for greater adventures.

In lighter winds, we crossed to Casablanca Island and then followed a route behind a series of larger stranded icebergs. Closer to the shore, we headed downwind as the waves grew behind us. In the lee of a protecting iceberg, we climbed back into our Zodiac before heading back to Plancius, delighted with the exciting adventures of our Damoy kayaking afternoon.

Mountaineering:

We disembark at Damoy’s dropping point, located to the north of the island, and begin our ascent roped up and wearing snowshoes. After about 30–40 minutes, we gain some elevation above Dorian Bay’s hut. The slope gradually steepens to 30-35 degrees, and a blizzard sets in. Determined to reach the pass—a saddle between two mountain ridges just below Jabet Peak—we push forward, but time is running out. We encounter a crevasse just below the col and, with conditions worsening, we decide to turn back. The terrain is riddled with snow goblets, making for a slow and careful descent.

The afternoon brings much better weather than the morning, though there's still a light breeze. We make our way up to the airstrip, enjoying a stunning view of Port Lockroy, before descending toward the Gentoo Rookeries. Continuing in the direction of a loop, we head toward the Damoy Hut. It’s a wonderfully pleasant afternoon, with lots of time to stretch our legs.

Camping:

After a delicious dinner, us campers were ready to go on our overnight adventure. After collecting our sleeping kits from the boot room, we jumped into the zodiacs and took a small transit towards Damoy Point, through Dorian Bay. At around 21:00, we arrived on shore, greeted by Chloe and Svata, two of our camping guides, plus a few curious gentoo penguins below the ‘ice stairs’. We formed a chain to help carry our sleeping kits up the steep staircase, where we then followed the snow path up to Keechy towards our designated camping area. After Keechy gave us some instructions on how to set up our sleeping kits, we grabbed a shovel and chose our spot within the camping perimeter. It was suggested we dig a shallow ‘grave’ shape within the snow for our bedding to shelter us from the wind, and some of us really showed off our skills with not only some impressive graves but igloo-style ice bricks as an additional wind barrier!

After about an hour and a half, everyone was set up and started to cozy up into their snow graves. The evening was the most beautiful light, with the mountains in the distance glowing in the twilight sun, gentoo penguins calling, and glaciers calving in the distance. The following morning, we got a VERY early wake-up call at around 02:45 as the Plancius had to start her transit to our next destination, so we swiftly packed up our bedding and made sure we filled in the snow graves we built to avoid any penguins falling in later, and to leave no human trace behind. Back to the ship we went, where we got a small early morning snack of pastries up in the main lounge. The good thing about getting picked up so early was that we still had plenty of time for another sleep before a proper breakfast and our morning activities!

It was truly such a spectacular experience to sleep out under the Antarctic sky, surrounded by ice, snow, penguins in the distance, and the special moments of silence amidst it all.

Good morning, M/V Plancius! The last day of 2024 and it was going to be a great one. We woke up to friendlier skies and less wind and even the sun was out to greet us on this beautiful morning.

Captain Arthur had positioned the ship in front of Port Lockroy which has the world’s most southern Post Office. It’s built on Goudier Island, and it is also called Base A. For more than a century Port Lockroy has been a home for explorers, whalers, scientists, and sailors who have made vital contributions to Antarctic history and the harbor has become the most popular visitor destination in Antarctica today. And not to forget, it has penguins!

Port Lockroy is a small island and as such they can only receive a maximum of 40 passengers at a time. So, some of us started with a landing at Jougla Point next to Goudier Island where we could spot the first Gentoo Penguin chicks and where we could see large whale bones which reminded us of past whaling times. Others started at Port Lockroy where they enjoyed a visit to the museum and the shop. Many souvenirs were bought and stamps too, so we could send our postcards to our friends and family. The friendly staff pointed out two penguins with chicks and when the penguins briefly stood up from their nest we were gazing with awe at their incredibly cute little chicks.

After we all had visited both Port Lockroy and Jougla Point it was time for lunch and to head to our next destination. During the 3-hour transfer to Orne Harbor we enjoyed amazing landscapes and calm and sunny weather. However, we had to make a small detour as killer whales were spotted from the bridge! Killer whales live in tight families, and they’re considered to be one of the most intelligent animal species. Some killer whales came quite close to the ship, and we loved hearing their loud blows and beautiful appearance.

Shortly after we arrived at Orne Harbor, a small natural bay surrounded by glaciers and rugged mountains. Here we could visit a Chinstrap Penguin colony, but to get there we had to make a steep climb up to the saddle of Spigot Peak. The climb was challenging, but totally worth it. Breathtaking views over the bays on both sides, warm sunny weather and Chinstrap Penguins! We all enjoyed ourselves to the fullest and we didn’t want to leave. However brash ice had started to congest the landing site and as such it was decided to return to the ship a bit earlier.

The anchor was heaved, and we set sail towards Wilhelmina Bay where we had a special dinner, a barbeque on the back deck with free drinks and dance music! A perfect start for our New Year’s Eve celebrations. The weather was calm and while we were eating our grilled food and salads, whales could be seen all around the ship. We danced to stay warm, but eventually the party was moved up to the bar. At midnight champagne was distributed, and we all raised our glasses to the new year; welcome 2025! Most of us decided to go to bed shortly after whereas others decided to keep the party going ;). Happy New Year everyone, see you again in the morning!

Kayaking:

2024’s final day took us to the beautiful surroundings of Orne Harbor, beneath Spigot Peak’s imposing rocky cliffs. Light winds and calm seas combined with afternoon sunshine to create perfect paddling conditions - we took our Zodiac to the south side of the bay, directly beneath Spigot. Here we transferred to our kayaks and began our kayaking adventures, paddling deeper into the bay under the watchful gaze of Chinstrap Penguin perched on steep rocky outcrops.

Past the landing site, we entered a dense field of brash ice, delighting in the experience of pushing our kayaks through this frozen maze. Towards the middle of the bay, we reentered open water and followed the edge of the brash ice towards the enormous terminal face of the tidewater glacier that tumbled down from the Arctowski Peninsula. Here we paused to take in our impressive Antarctic surroundings.

Heading into the isolated north sanctuary of Orne Harbor, we gazed out across the Gerlache Strait, flat and welcoming in the day’s settled weather. Aiming for Spigot Peak once again, we crossed the harbor entrance with a vast expanse of open water to our right. Closer to the south side, we encountered a large field of brash ice, too dense to easily paddle through. Following this barrier, we paddled deeper into the bay before finally returning to Plancius - a wonderful and memorable kayaking adventure to usher in the New Year.

Mountaineering:

The weather is perfect for the ascent to Horne Spigot – something I wouldn’t attempt with poor visibility, especially with the large cornices on the left side of the upper snowfield. We climbed to the col where most of the guests visit the Chinstrap Rookeries. From there, we veered left of the ridge, navigating a mix of snow and rock terrain unroped. As we reached the upper snowfield, we roped up briefly for the final push to the summit. The snow conditions were excellent, with firm steps up to the heel, so no need for crampons. The climb was technical and exposed, but the views from the summit were stunning.

The first day of the year began with a day in Antarctica – what a great way to start! Adam woke us up early as we passed through the Lemaire Channel, often called the "Kodak Gap" due to being one of the most photographed passages in Antarctica.

The weather wasn't as kind as the previous day, but it had a mystical, truly Antarctic feel to it. Fog and rain enveloped the surrounding mountain cliffs, adorned with hanging glaciers, while icebergs drifted in our path. The bridge team navigated us safely, and most of us enjoyed the views with a cup of coffee before breakfast.

After breakfast, we landed on Pleneau Island, just south of the Lemaire Channel. The kayakers explored the shore, and the mountaineers joined us on the island but had a larger area to explore. We walked up a small hill, passing gentoo penguin colonies and snow-covered hillslopes, eventually reaching a plateau with a stunning view of the iceberg graveyard in Salpetrie Bay, west of Pleneau Island. The views were spectacular, even in the rain. Adam would say it's not a graveyard but a garden—and we all agreed that this description felt much more fitting. On the way down, we passed a small freshwater pool where some penguins were swimming – a penguin spa! It was great fun to watch the little birds play in the water before we headed back to the ship, with a fair amount of water splashed on us. No worries—we were wearing our expedition hats.

In the afternoon, we made our way to Port Charcot, a lovely, protected bay. Although the weather forecast was not promising, the Expedition Team made the best of it. We went for a Zodiac cruise, and it turned out to be a fantastic choice. Not far from the ship, we saw feeding whales, staying in the same area. It was a great opportunity to watch them feed. The food must have been abundant, as hundreds of penguins were also floating in the water, likely feeding and resting. What a show! The penguins moved so quickly and gracefully that they were hard to follow, but they were everywhere around us.

We also hoped to spot seals, so most of the Zodiacs ventured toward areas with sea ice. However, the icebergs were so numerous and packed by wind and currents that most of us couldn't make it to the shallow bays still holding sea ice in the middle of the season. No worries, though. In addition to returning to the whales and penguin rafts, we also got a good look at the "penguin highway" at Port Charcot, where we saw gentoo, chinstrap, and Adélie penguins all in the same spot—a real treat!

The mountaineers enjoyed a hike to the cairn on Booth Island, while the kayakers battled the wind to explore the island's west coast. As the wind picked up in the afternoon, we returned to the ship just before the rain began again—staying dry in the process.

Just before dinner, the bridge team navigated us northbound through the Lemaire Channel once more, leaving our most southern position. What an incredible passage! We enjoyed the final stretch while listening to the plan for tomorrow, and after dinner, most of us headed to our cabins. The party from yesterday, clearly, had used up some reserves.

Kayaking:

New Year’s Day dawned cold, cloudy, damp and breezy at Pleneau Island. Our small and hardy team of kayakers launched into the partial shelter of the bay and headed downwind in search of shelter. Dramatic views to the south revealed misty ice-cloaked mountains rising from the deep waters of our most southerly Antarctic venue.

We followed a narrow channel into protected waters between Pleneau and Hovgaard, where we found a series of pools between low glacially smoothed rock slabs. Here in this hidden corner, we discovered a handful of hauled-out Crabeater and Weddell Seals, resting on rock and snow close to the water’s edge. Delighted with our good fortune, we explored this intricate network of waterways, constantly finding seal-watching delights. One inlet produced the highlight of our trip - five Elephant Seals, clustered together on the rocks like a pack of sausages, eying us warily.

We continued north along the SW side of Pleneau Island, until the cold conditions and the end of sheltered water forced our retreat. We retraced our route back towards our launch point, where our Plancius home came into view once more. Chilled and happy at our excellent start to the New Year, we clambered aboard to enjoy the welcoming warmth of our floating base.

The first afternoon of 2025 brought breezy conditions at Port Charcot, with possible shelter at the west end of Booth Island. Our bold team of basecamp kayakers departed Plancius in search of Antarctic adventure. We switched to our kayaks in the partial lee of the landing site, then headed west in search of more protected water. The west side of Booth Island demanded skill and coordination from our excellent team, as we hopped upwind from bay to bay, finding shelter and rest in each tiny, enclosed inlet. Our team gamely rose to the challenge, enjoying their encounter with these raw Antarctic conditions. The top of the west headland brought greater wind and waves, and the end of further shelter. We paddled a small circuit beyond the protection of the final bay, reveling in the feeling of waves rolling under our kayaks.

We turned downwind again, as the breeze helped us back towards flat water. A pair of Humpback Whales surfaced in the channel close by, their noisy exhalations audible over the sound of the wind. Back under Booth Island’s protecting ice cliffs, we celebrated our adventurous kayaking encounter with the west side of Booth Island. The increasing wind brought greater challenges at our final corner - a handful of hardy team members continued towards Plancius for a short distance. We returned to our Zodiac and safely boarded the ship at the end of our rewarding and exciting kayaking adventure.

Mountaineering:

With a total of 22 people, including 2 guides, we embarked on a circular walk around Pleneau Island. On the far side of the landing site, we reached a vantage point offering a stunning view of icebergs and a few seals. Despite the rain, the atmosphere was serene. The roped team stood at a distance, observing the seals quietly as they basked in the wild surroundings.

Our final mountaineering expedition took us to the rocky summit at Charcot Point. With 19 guests, all equipped with snowshoes from the start and unroped, we set out on a scenic tour of the island. Along the way, we reached the memorial rock and the pole commemorating Charcot's overwintering French expedition from early 1900’s. After taking a few group photos, we circled the island, returning to the landing site. Along the way, we crossed several penguin highways, and by the end of the trek, our snowshoes needed thorough cleaning.

This morning Plancius quietly entered Paradise Bay. Despite a weather forecast calling for wind on most of the Antarctic peninsula, we had indeed found a nice calm shelter in this bay. The zodiacs and kayakers headed out on glassy calm seas to explore the ice. Throughout the morning, we found humpback whales, crabeater seals, Weddell seals, gentoo penguins and more! Some of the zodiacs had unique encounters with a humpback whale playing with the ice, while others had fun encounters with seals. The kayaks paddled up against towering glaciers and through a maze of icebergs. About half of the zodiacs pulled off a quick landing at Punta Vidt next to Brown Station to see the Weddell seals and gentoo penguins on shore. Even though it rained for about half of the zodiac cruise, we were off the ship exploring for several hours.

During lunch the ship repositioned closer to Leith cove and dropped us off for another zodiac adventure. While the ship repositioned outside of Bryde Island, we cruised in the Bryde channel looking for wildlife. As the ship reached the Gerlache Strait, they called in a report of killer whales! The zodiacs closest to the ship were able to spot them and start following them as they entered the Bryde channel. Two zodiacs pushed further into the Gerlache and found more killer whales and then took the long route around to meet the ship. The rest of the zodiacs enjoyed the killer whale group headed into Paradise Bay and then proceeded to the Chilean Base: Presidente Gabriel Gonzales Videla to check out the base buildings and wildlife on the coast. From the base we continued through the Aguirre Passage and met up with Plancius on the other side. While of course the killer whales were the highlight, most zodiacs also saw humpback whales, Weddell seals and gentoo penguins. It was an amazing zodiac cruise for every boat, friendly and social killer whales and an icy adventure.

In the evening, we began steaming north in the Gerlache Straight to reach the South Shetland Islands for our final day in Antarctica.

Kayaking:

Our final basecamp kayak trip took place in the beautiful surroundings of Paradise Harbour, with complete shelter from wind and waves. Low clouds dressed the surrounding peaks, as glaciers tumbled down steep mountainsides. We launched into our kayaks near Brown Station, beneath steep rocky cliffs hosting a colony of nesting Antarctic Shags.

We headed deeper into the bay, where brash ice and bergy bits soon impeded our progress. We followed a careful course along the shoreline, heading into Skontorp Bay where we stopped to gaze in awe at the ice-choked waters of the tidewater glacier front. In misty conditions as a gentle rain fell from the skies, we paddled between dramatically eroded icebergs towards the far side of the bay.

Arcing towards open water in Paradise Bay, our delighted team of kayakers heard Humpback Whale exhalations, as several cetaceans fed on krill in these icy waters. Our route towards a now-distant Plancius took us on a parallel track to one ‘humpie’ that tracked our course for several minutes. We observed this majestic animal as it dived and surfaced, no more than 100m from our kayaks. We finally returned to Plancius at the end of our excellent adventure, delighted with our experiences.

Today sadly, would be our last day of off-ship activities. Excitement was in the air though this morning, as we had the chance to visit one of Antarctica’s active volcanoes, Deception Island. Nathaniel Palmer, an American sealer, aptly named the island under the name of ‘Deception’ due to its outward deceptive appearance as a ‘normal island’, however, a narrow entrance named Neptune's Bellows revealed it rather to be a ring of volcanic rock around a flooded caldera. Some of us early risers woke up to witness the Plancius transit through the Bellows, which was very impressive as the entrance is only 230 m (755 ft) wide, coupled with a navigation hazard of ‘Raven's Rock’, lying 2.5 m (8.2 ft) below the water in the middle of the channel.

After the Bellows we entered Port Foster, which is the body of water that flooded the caldera. After about an hour’s sail, we arrived at Telefon Bay. The expedition team set up a route over part of the volcanic craters for our morning landing, while some of us gently strolled along the shoreline taking in the unique landscape. Walking on the volcanic rock, with thick fog all around made us feel like we were on another planet! It was such a different environment to our previous landings we encountered down on the Antarctic Peninsula.

There usually isn’t much wildlife on the inside of Deception Island (as these animals are clever and know nesting inside an active volcano probably isn’t the best idea!) but we did get to observe a Weddell and crabeater seal hauled out on the shore, plus a few curious gentoo and chinstrap penguins. After a few hours ashore it was time for our most anticipated event- the polar plunge! The expedition team set up a tarp for us to stand on to undress, and bags of fresh towels were laid around the shoreline ready for us. 1 – 2 – 3 and off us brave swimmers went into the icy cold water! Some of us stayed in for less than a couple of seconds, while others even donned the freestyle stroke and started proper swimming! Noises of laughter, shrieks and applause buzzed from the shoreline, the penguins must have thought we were mad!

By then it was time to say goodbye to dry land, head back into the zodiacs and back onto the ship to get warm and dry, to start our sail back out the Bellows and into the Drake Passage.

After lunch, we joined Steffi in the main lounge for a talk on seabirds. We learnt all about how they have adapted to life at sea, their dynamic soaring patterns, what they eat and other interesting things about their ecology. It is truly amazing that so many of these birds we encountered in Antarctica spend most of their lives on, or in the water! They only come to shore to breed and molt!

After our daily recap and briefing, another delicious dinner was served and off to bed we went, ready for what was expected to be quite a rough Drakes Passage. The doctor was kept busy this afternoon handing out more seasickness medication!

Today we could sleep a bit longer, as we have now left Antarctica behind us and are braving Drake’s Passage once again! The sea was a bit calmer than the night before, so most of us were able to enjoy the lovely breakfast buffet.

Koen kicked off the morning with a lecture on how to process all those beautiful pictures we have taken during our trip. Several functions of the photo editing software DxO and Adobe Lightroom were discussed, including examples, so that we could show off our amazing pictures in the best light when we are back at home!

We had a bit of a break to get a nice warm drink and a biscuit, until Chloe gave a lecture about sea-ice ecosystems. We learned all about how microscopically small phytoplankton (algae) that live in the ice, are incredibly important for any life in Antarctica. They are grazed on by zooplankton (microscopic organisms) and krill that are in turn being eaten by our beloved seals, penguins and whales.

Just after Chloe’s lecture, the ship was crossing back over the Antarctic Convergence or Antarctic Polar Front, a natural boundary around Antarctica. Within the Antarctic Convergence zone, cold Antarctic waters flowing north sink beneath the warmer subantarctic waters. This creates a lot of mixing in the sea and upwelling of nutrients to the surface, leading to high marine productivity. At this border, the water temperature also changes ca. 2-3°C!

Once again, Khabir’s team made us a delicious lunch, after which we had a bit of a break from activities. In the afternoon we all got cozy together in the lounge to watch the animation film Happy Feet, featuring our favorite Antarctic animals, penguins, orca’s and seals! Popcorn made the experience feel even more cinematic.

In the evening, we enjoyed an extended recap, and carefully ate our dinners after. It was very impressive to see the stewards and stewardesses walking around with all the plates whilst the ship was rolling back and forth. The wind and swell had picked up again during the afternoon, we were having a proper Drake Shake, a rite of passage for a true expedition to Antarctica!

The mighty sea tried it’s best to ruin our good mood by throwing strong wind gusts and five-meter waves during past night, but we survived and were happy to welcome another new day.

This morning was dedicated to get even more information about Antarctic creatures and ice. Katlyn gave us last lecture about: A year in the life of a humpback whale. Humpback whales are incredible animals with an interesting lifestyle and cycle. Keechy then continued with a lecture called Ice Ice Maybe, when she was talking about past, present and the future of ice and our climate.

Later after lunch, Adam continued and introduced us to how life was, while working and overwintering in South Georgia and on an Antarctic research station. Through his lecture, Supporting Antarctic Science, we got a great insight on life in these remote areas and how one ends up doing such a thing!

The wind gods decided we had suffered enough and gave us a rest in the afternoon, so we could watch a documentary, which was showed later in the afternoon in lounge. It was about the ancient mariners braving the treacherous waters of Cape Horn.

In the evening, we met with the Captain, who thanked us for a wonderful trip and wished us all the best on future travels. Glasses were raised and a loud “Cheers” resonated in the lounge.

Our last evening was spent sharing stories of our voyage and exchanging phone numbers, a trip where strangers from all over the world became family for a few weeks.

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, and it was time to say our goodbyes and a last chance to exchange contact details. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said goodbye to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore some of the town’s treasures while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, remembering good times and perhaps planning for more in the future.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1791nm

Southermost position: 65º04.0’S / 064º02.5’W

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, the Captain, Crew and Expedition staff would like to thank you for pleasant times, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.