PLA27-25, trip log, Falkland Islands - South Georgia - Antarctica

It’s finally here! The day we have all been waiting for! Today we will set sail on our epic journey around the South Atlantic. At 4pm we made our way down to the port in Ushuaia and lined up to board our good ship Plancius. It was quite a nice warm day though a little windy and overcast. As we boarded the ship we checked in and were shown to our cabins where our luggage was already waiting for us.

Once we were all aboard it was time for us to receive some important information. We were all invited to the lounge for some mandatory safety briefings and to take part in a drill of abandoning the ship. After we received our safety information, we all went to our cabins and grabbed our lifejackets and followed the crew to our assigned lifeboat. After the drill we were released to enjoy the ship leaving the dock.

After a little while we were invited again to the lounge to the “Captain’s Welcome” event. We were treated to a glass of bubbles and some canapes while our captain; Captain Evgeny welcomed us to the voyage and led a toast to our good travels. We then met our expedition leader Ali Liddle who in turn introduced to her expedition staff team. They were so excited to share their knowledge with us.

After the introductions Ali gave us the plan for tomorrow. The weather looks quite windy so tomorrow may be a bumpy ride over to the Falkland Islands. We would make sure to prepare for the journey. Once the briefing was finished it was time for us to take part in the last event of the day…dinner! We all filed down to the dining room to experience our first meal onboard. The galley team had prepared a feast for us, and we enjoyed it with much gusto with beautiful scenes of the Beagle Channel passing by. We even saw a humpback whale! Afterwards we retired to our rooms to rest ready for tomorrow’s adventures. What a great first day!

Our first night aboard Plancius was quite exciting for some of us. As we travelled further and further out to sea the more the ship moved and rolled with the ocean waves. As we woke up to the wake-up call of our expedition leader Ali we were greeted by overcast skies and strong winds. We had prepared for this since our warning from Ali the night before and we carefully made our way to the dining room for some good breakfast.

After breakfast at 9:30 we were called to the lounge for our first lecture of the day entitled Introduction to the Falkland Islands by our Falkland’s expedition guide Tiphanie May. We learned about what it is like to live and grow up in the Falklands. Once the lecture was concluded we took a coffee break then it was time for another interesting lecture called Birds of the Falkland Islands by our birder Martin. This was to prepare us for our first landing tomorrow so we would be able to identify some of the bird we were going to see.

Once we had brushed up on our bird identification it was time for lunch. Once again, we made our way to the dining room though it was quite difficult as by this time the wind had picked up even more broadside causing the Plancius to roll constantly. The decks had to be closed as the wave were starting to come up over the bow of the ship. Some of us decided to retire to our room for a while in the break after lunch.

In the late afternoon we were once again invited to the lounge for another great lecture, this time on photography by our photo guide Koen. We learned lots of handy tips and tricks to make our wildlife photography better which will come in handy on this long journey. After the lecture it was time for us to attend a mandatory safety briefing by Ali on using the zodiacs. This included a demonstration on how to wear our zodiac life vests. This was important as we will be tested on these skills tomorrow at our first landing in the Falkland Islands.

Soon it was time for our last event on the daily program which was our daily recap. During the recap everyday we would find out the plans for the next day and hear some interesting short presentations from the expedition guides. Tonight, Ali had to deliver us the news that we would be having our first change of plans as the wind in the Falklands was looking very strong all day tomorrow. The places we were due to visit would not be possible in this wind, but Ali had found us a place she thought was possible, a place called New Island where we could see albatross and three different species of penguins. It sounds like a great alternative; we are very excited. Afterwards the guides all took a few minutes each to introduce themselves and discuss their backgrounds. Now we are ready to start the adventure! Once recap was finished, we headed back down to the dining room to enjoy a delicious dinner, as the first views of the Falklands came into view. We went to bed excited with what tomorrow would bring.

We woke this morning to sunshine and a beautiful view of New Island, one of the western most islands of The Falkland Islands archipelago. There are said to be over 700 islands in all.

We had a slightly earlier breakfast this morning so that we could get out and explore. New Island is a national nature reserve which is run by Falklands Conservation. The island is 13km long and averages 750 metres wide.

It was a little windy as we left the ship. The expedition team had gone ashore to prepare the landing on a beach next to a shipwreck the Protector III.

Some of us were lucky on the zodiac drive over to the beach to be joined by Peale’s dolphins. As we got ashore our expedition leader, Ali, greeted us and gave us a briefing for our morning ahead. At the landing site is a stone-built building which houses a museum and small gift shop raising money for Falklands Conservation.

Most of us headed straight up the track towards the bird colonies. We walked through a landscape of native cooch grass and nesting Upland geese. Then we reached a spectacle that we weren’t ready for, a Black browed albatross and Rockhopper penguin colony. The colony starts at sea level with the Rockhopper and Imperial cormorants and then rises to about 60 metres above sea level. Towards the top is where the albatross breed on their home-made soil mounds that are called pots. Each pot containing a beautiful fluffy, light grey, Black browed Albatross chick or a couple of fluffy black Rockhopper chicks. The views out to sea and along the cliffs is incredible.

We watched adult albatross come and go, chicks snoozing in the sunshine or trying to cool down in the warm temperatures. Some of us noticed an exposed albatross egg, it wasn’t there long as a Striated caracara (locally known as Johnny Rook) soon noticed it and devoured it, sharing it with its partner.

It was difficult to tear ourselves away from the spectacle but all too soon it was time to head back to the beach, to the museum and then back to the ship for a well-earned, delicious lunch.

During lunch the ship was moved to the north end of the island and North Harbour. Another zodiac ride, again escorted by excited Peale’s dolphins, took us to another beach and a walk through the beautiful landscape to a Gentoo Penguin colony. We watched as the youngsters chased adults around, begging for food, we were able to watch them coming out of the sea, swimming through the surf and jumping onto the beach. It was addictive viewing!

There were more Black browed Albatross on the cliffs and again, beautiful views of the cliffs in the sunshine.

Back on the ship we departed New Island to views of about a dozen Sei whales as we headed north. After dinner, our journey north and east took us through The Woolly Gut between Westpoint Island and West Falkland. We watched the sun go down on what had been a truly amazing day in The Falkland Islands and looking forward to the next.

After a gentle navigation around Falklands, we arrived around 9 o’clock in front of Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands.

The town is remarkable for its colourful buildings. The weather was fine but unfortunately there was a strong wind. Disembarking took some time, as we had to reposition the ship several times to be able to use the gangway safely.

Even so, once in the zodiacs, we caught a few waves. Fortunately, we were all well equipped with waterproof suits. We disembarked in the small port of Stanley mid-morning. Ali and Tiphanie had given us all the information we needed the day before to visit and make sure we made the most of our few hours.

Stanley is a pleasant little British-style city that offers all the necessary services.

Most of us went to visit the museum, which is very interesting and recounts the great historical events of the Falklands. Small buildings around the museum recreate various old trades. A printing works, a carpenter’s workshop and a radio communication station.

The tour continued along the town's main street to the 1982 war memorial. A bit further we could see the governor's house which is a beautiful building facing the bay.

The church forecourt is also worth a visit; an original arch made up of 4 blue whale jaw bones, dating from the period when whaling was a very important activity in the Falklands.

We were also able to enjoy a moment in a café overlooking the bay and complete our souvenir shopping of this visit. Many local handicrafts are created and sold in Stanley.

The morning passed very quickly; we all reembarked on board for lunch, fortunately the wind had drop down and the zodiac ride was more comfortable and less wet!

After a good meal, we took advantage of the pleasant weather to enjoy the outside decks as we left the Falklands.

The afternoon was a little more eventful as we began to sail towards our next stop, South Georgia.

Mid-afternoon Ali gave us a lecture about her year teaching children and her life on Sea Lion Island in the Falklands while the rest of the world was concerned about covid. There was a breath of freedom in the Falklands. Ali introduced us to the very special life on these islands, particularly in winter, when the cold has set in and the wildlife is still very intense.

Before dinner, Ali gave us the rest of the programme, including the weather forecast and a presentation on black-browed albatrosses, which we were lucky enough to see up close during our first stopover on New Island. Martin explained the characteristics of the underwater vision and eyes of the penguins, which are so well adapted to their environment. Hélène gave us some information about the gentoo penguins, which we met yesterday and which we will also see in large numbers during our trip. Finally, Suzie showed us all the variety of lichens we can see on the rocks.

It was a good day in the Falklands as we faced the first part of the journey to Georgia.

After an unforgettable visit to the Falkland Islands, we were bursting with thousands of thoughts and countless photos to share. The night on board the Plancius was a bit rough, as the ship rolled heavily, making it difficult for some of us to get a good night’s sleep. However, Ali’s cheerful morning call quickly lifted our spirits. We woke up once again at sea, cruising toward the rugged shores of South Georgia.

Following breakfast, Koen delivered an engaging presentation, giving us all the essential information about penguins. His talk was both fascinating and informative, setting the tone for the day. After a short break, Tiphanie took the stage and shared an in-depth lecture about the island’s natural and cultural history. Drawing from her personal experiences living nearby on the Falkland Islands, she provided us with special insights that brought the island’s story to life.

Lunch was, as always, delicious—a testament to the skill of the galley team. In the afternoon, Ali gave an enlightening talk about seals, while Suzie delivered her own presentation about seals in German in the onboard restaurant. Outside, the ship continued to roll with the swells, making walking through the corridors a bit of an adventure. Nevertheless, the most dedicated birdwatchers braved the windy decks, and their perseverance paid off. They were rewarded with sightings of wandering and royal albatrosses gliding effortlessly over the waves, along with sooty shearwaters darting just above the surface.

Later, we gathered to watch a fascinating documentary about life in the deep ocean, which offered a glimpse into a world few ever see. This was followed by a mandatory South Georgia Government documentary, which highlighted our responsibilities as visitors and emphasized the importance of preserving the island’s fragile ecosystem.

With the biosecurity check scheduled for tomorrow, we ended the day full of excitement and anticipation. Over another exceptional dinner, prepared with care by the galley team, we reflected on the adventure so far and looked forward to what awaited us on South Georgia.

The day began with a bit of improvement in terms of sleep, with the ship’s motion feeling more manageable than the previous night. However, there was still some rolling during the night that made for a restless sleep for some.

In the morning, our lovely wake-up call was followed by delicious breakfast, setting the tone for the day ahead. We gathered for a detailed briefing about South Georgia, where biosecurity measures were outlined. The focus was on ensuring that no foreign debris or contamination would be brought to the island, an important step for preserving its delicate environment.

The biosecurity checks were thorough. Our outdoor gear underwent an in-depth inspection. The guides were hands-on, helping us cleaning and demonstrating what to look for in terms of dirt, sand, and other organic debris. Special attention was paid to the rubber boots, with all stones needing to be picked out, and every velcro strap thoroughly examined. The cleaning also extended to backpacks, where every bit of dirt had to be removed.

After lunch, the remaining of us who hadn’t yet been checked underwent their gear inspection. Once everything was cleaned and verified, we gathered for lectures. Tiphanie gave an engaging presentation about the marine life in the Southern ocean, sharing insights about the animals that we cant see. Meanwhile, Suzie held a more intimate, German-language lecture about krill, diving deeper into its significance in the ecosystem and the problem we encounter nowadays with krill fishery.

Dinner followed, and with the day winding down, there was a sense of relief as the ship’s motion calmed slightly, providing a much-needed opportunity for a better night's sleep than the previous days.

After two and a half bumpy days at sea, most of us were very excited to lay eyes on land again. The dark peaks of South Georgia rose out the mist ahead of us. We started making our way down the coast towards our first landing in South Georgia, a place called Right Whale Bay. We were so excited. After a quick breakfast, our expedition team headed to the shore to set up the landing for us. We quickly followed and landed on a sandy beach surrounded by curious fur seal pups and handsome king penguins. It was all so beautiful and very difficult to get to the lifejacket bags without a growl from a cute little fluff ball.

We readied ourselves then headed out on the short hike the expedition team set out for us. There was so much wildlife everywhere! Fur seals, elephant seals and king penguins. At the end of the hike, we came to a small colony of king penguins nestled into the hillside. It was so amazing to see them and even some of their big, brown fluffy chicks. The chicks were almost as big as the adults now but still so cute! We spent several hours observing and taking photos before it was time to head back to the ship. We bundled back into our zodiacs and before we knew it, we were back on the ship enjoying a delicious lunch.

During lunch the ship repositioned to our next location, a place called Salisbury Plain. This is the second largest king penguin colony on South Georgia. Once again, we loaded into our zodiacs and headed out on an afternoon of adventure. We landed on another stunning sandy beach riddled with baby fur seals and king penguins. We left the beach and followed the poled route our expedition team set out for us. This time the route was a bit more complicated zig zagging through wildlife, and areas of mud but the journey was worth it as at the end we managed to move to a beautiful opening in the tussac next to the penguin colony. There were so many penguins and their chicks for as far as we could see. Over 60,000 breeding pairs! It was amazing! All too soon it was time to return to the ship and clean the mud off our gear ready for tomorrow’s adventures! What an amazing day!!!

We started the day with a wake-up call and breakfast, eager to explore our next beautiful location of the morning, Hercules Bay via a zodiac cruise. As we cruised, we were treated to incredible wildlife sightings. Macaroni penguins were jumping out of the water to land on the cliffs. After a good rest they made their way up to the tussac grass all the way up to the steep cliffs. We watched young fur seals play in the water, and the distant sound of elephant seals echoed across the bay.

Southern giant petrels and northern giant petrels floated on the water, taking a well-deserved nap. King penguins gathered in front of a waterfall, creating the perfect scene for photographs. We also spotted light-mantled albatrosses soaring above us, and when they eventually landed, we discovered their nests. The geological features around us were equally fascinating, with sedimentary rocks in both horizontal and vertical lines telling the story of this place’s ancient past.

After about 1.5 hours of zodiac cruising, we returned to the ship for a well-earned lunch before continuing our journey to Grytviken. As we approached the shore, government officials boarded the ship to stamp our passports and conduct a final gear inspection. We passed thankfully!

We landed right by Shackleton’s grave and, in his honor, enjoyed a whisky—Shackleton whisky, a special blended mix that he used to drink. We took a walk through the old whaling station, marveling at the remnants of the past. At 4:00 PM, some of us gathered at the museum for a guided tour, learning more about the history of the area. We even saw the famous James Caird, the boat Shackleton sailed from Elephant Island to South Georgia. It was mind-blowing to think about how rough the journey must have been, especially considering how much the ship was rocking during our own travels.

By this point, some of us were feeling the weight of the previous days' experiences and decided to head back to the ship for a rest, while others stayed ashore, continuing to explore the village. Back on board, we had a briefing about the plans for the following day, and to our surprise, we were treated to a phenomenal BBQ on the outer deck. The evening ended on a high note, with dancing and a lot of fun, celebrating the incredible day we had shared together.

The day began with a good breakfast and by 8am we were ready to board the Zodiacs.

The weather was cloudy and the sea calm enough for us to make the landing at St Andrew's Bay. This incredible site is well known for being home to South Georgia's largest colony of king penguins and elephant seals. The bay is very exposed and can face powerful winds that plunge down from the neighbouring peaks (Mount Roots, Mount Kling, Nordenskjold Peak and Mount Brooker), which rise to an altitude of 2,000 metres and frame the bay.

A long morning awaited us in the field to make the most of our visit to this site. As soon as we arrived, we were greeted by numerous king penguins coming out of the water onto the beach. They were very curious. We followed the path marked by the poles across a wide plain where many fur seals were resting. Then a little challenge awaited some of us: crossing the two arms of the river flowing from the Cook Glacier. Large numbers of moulting penguins were grouped together in the riverbed. The guides helped us to cross but it was well worth the effort to reach the colony. Along the way, small groups of elephant seals and young males were clustered together.

After climbing a small hill, the surprise and reward was there. The incredible colony of 500,000 penguins with a stunning view of the Cook glacier in the background. We all spent a long time watching the penguins come and go. It was an incredible cacophony, with all the adults and young calling.

On the way back, the spectacle was permanent: young skuas wandering in the vegetation, young fur seals pups playing together, the penguins continuing their comings and goings. Four hours on land was not too much time to enjoy this incredible site.

After a good meal on board and a short sail, we were ready for our landing at Godthul. This bay provides shelter and gave us a chance to spend some quality time ashore despite the strong wind. Numerous remains of whaling activity were still visible on the beach from the beginning of the 19th century, the bay was visited by a whaling boat, in charge of processing the whales that were hunted and brought back by smaller boats. Today, the whale bones can still be seen on the beach.

For the afternoon, Ali invited us to choose between several activities: a zodiac cruise for some of us, a walk through the tussocks to get to the penguin colonies for others and a longer walk to reach some high points on the bay. This site, very different from the previous ones, was interesting for the many species of plants that can be seen but of course, everyone enjoyed even more watching the young gentoo penguins.

At one point, the wind picked up a lot making us realised just how much the wind can change and increase all at once! We were lucky with the weather. We continued the walks and observations of wildlife until it was time to return to the ship after another wonderful day in South Georgia!

Today began with an early start at 5:00 AM, as we were woken up by the stunning sight of Gold Harbour bathed in a golden light. The mountaintops were illuminated with a warm yellow glow, and distant icebergs added to the breathtaking view. After a quick snack in the lounge with pastries and fruit, we disembarked at 6:00 AM onto a busy beach where the lively elephant seals were play-fighting, and king penguins were landing on the shore with each swell of the waves. We carefully navigated our way through the penguins and seals towards the tussac grass, where we were rewarded with a glimpse of a large penguin colony. However, the fur seals hiding in the grass weren’t so pleased to see us and tried to chase us off.

At the colony, the penguins were engrossed in their mating rituals, with some already balancing their precious eggs on their feet. By 8:00 AM, it was time to return to the ship for breakfast. As we were finishing, Alli announced that humpback whales had been spotted, showing their flukes, so we paused to enjoy some whale watching. A raft of penguins also joined us, and the birders were excited to see snow and cape petrels in the area. After some minor delays, we set off for our next destination.

We arrived at Cooper Bay, named after Lieutenant Cooper of James Cook’s HMS Resolution, which sailed around Cooper Island in 1775. The zodiac cruise took us to spectacular rock formations, home to macaroni penguins and fur seals, and we explored small channels carefully due to the large swells. The warming temperatures were causing icebergs to break apart. On the opposite side of the bay, we observed chinstrap, king, macaroni, and gentoo penguins all gathered on the same beach. Some adventurous chinstrap penguins even hopped onto a small growler close to the shore, balancing precariously as the swell moved beneath them.

After lunch, we made our way to Drygalski Fjord, named after Professor Erich Drygalski, leader of the German Expedition from 1901-1903. The weather was perfect, with bright sunshine illuminating the dramatic cliffs, glaciers, and waterfalls. We spent time marvelling at the beauty of the fjord on the outer decks, reflecting on a day full of remarkable wildlife encounters and inspiring landscapes.

We received a message from another ship about orcas spotted at the entrance of the Fjord, prompting Ali to send our expedition team out for a scouting mission. After 45 minutes, we spotted the blows of feeding humpback whales, and shortly after, the massive dorsal fins of male orcas appeared on the horizon. As we moved closer, the orcas decided to check us out, surrounding the ship and exploring every inch of its hull. Everyone scrambled to find the best spot to capture the moment on camera, and it was truly the highlight of the day. We postponed our recap to maximize the time spent with the orcas, who stayed with us for an incredible hour. To celebrate this unforgettable experience and our successful exploration of South Georgia, we raised our glasses with champagne and juice, followed by a delicious dinner. But the excitement didn’t end there—soon after, the bridge alerted us to a pod of pilot whales approaching. It felt as if the ship had a soul that magnetically attracted wildlife, and we were able to enjoy one final, stunning whale sighting as the last light of the day faded.

We awoke to our expedition leader Ali calling us outside to see a phenomenal site. As we left our rooms we saw a huge expanse of ice ahead of us like a huge wall, it was the giant iceberg A23a! It was even larger than we could imagine as we passed down the length of the iceberg, an estimate 1 trillion tons of ice. We were so lucky as the fog had lifted briefly for us to observe this wonder of the earth and we spent over an hour navigating past it. As we left the iceberg it was time for us to head down to breakfast before we engaged in the activities of the day.

After breakfast Koen kicked us off with a lecture on the different whale species we may see whilst in Antarctica. It was an informative and entertaining presentation setting us up for our whale watching activities ahead. We then enjoyed a coffee break before diving even further into the world of whales with a presentation from Szymon on orca. We learned a lot, including that orcas can think much faster than us!

Once the lectures had concluded it was time for lunch, another delicious event put together by the galley team. We then had a long break to enjoy the fine weather on the outer decks or enjoy some well-earned rest after our adventures in South Georgia. At 15:00 we relocated to the lounge for the final presentation of the day given by Suzie on krill. We learnt so much about the importance of krill and the concerns regarding its commercial fishing in Antarctica. We came away with a lot of food for thought.

In the late afternoon a short film was put on about Shackleton for us to enjoy in the lounge. At 18:00 we were gathered again for the final event of the day. The South Georgia Heritage Trust auction!

An opportunity for us to purchase some very special items from South Georgia including a bottle of Shackleton whisky signed by Endurance finding expedition leader John Sheers. Bidding was slow at first but soon warmed up as we moved through the variety of items. Soon all items included the coveted signed Oceanwide flag from the bow had happy new owners. It was great fun; we were even a little late to dinner. Soon we headed down and finished our day with another delicious meal. What a great sea day!

We woke this morning to calm seas and light winds but with heavy cloud cover. We knew that we would be spending the day at sea so we settled in for a relaxing day.

The breakfast provided by the galley team was, as usual, excellent. After breakfast we were requested to attend the lounge for a mandatory IAATO briefing. IAATO stands for the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, the organization formed of tour operators operating in Antarctica. The briefing informed us of the regulations around visiting Antarctica and how to behave. This was followed by another bio-security check with the expedition team.

While we took it in turns to have our clothing checked for cleanliness others were taking the opportunity to browse photos, edit the ones to keep and probably deleting a few!

After another glorious lunch while exchanging stories about penguins and killer whales Szymon gave an in-depth lecture in english about ice in the lounge. At the same time our guest lecturer, Andrea, gave her lecture about ice in German in the restaurant.

As this was happening some lucky guests had won a tour of the galley in the South Georgia auction. They were treated to an hour with head chef Khabir and if that wasn’t enough, champagne and chocolate dipped strawberries!

We all came back together at 4.30 for a film about Endurance. Because of the good weather we are well on our way to Elephant Island, planning to arrive tomorrow morning.

While all this was happening, some intrepid souls were still on deck birding, four species of albatross were seen amongst several other species of bird, cetaceans seen were fin whales and Southern bottlenose whales. All together a very good day of wildlife watching.

At recap Ali gave a short presentation about the weather and plans for the day ahead and we were then treated to yet another fabulous dinner.

We started the day at 6:15 in the morning, when our expedition leader Ali invited early birds to go to the observation lounge to see Elephant Island that became visible in the fog on the horizon. While we enjoyed our morning coffee, Point Wild came to the view. Miraculously the fog lifted, and the sun came out so we could see giant waves washing the rocks and the statue of Captain Pardo who lead the successful rescue of Shackleton’s men. Quite astonishing witnessing this wild and rough place thinking about how these men could possibly survive here living on penguins and keeping the hopes up. We stayed there for about an hour admiring the view of the glacier. As we reluctantly bid farewell to Point Wild, the breakfast call invited us to the dining room.

The morning's tranquility was short-lived, as the bridge announced the sighting of whale blows on the horizon. We hastened to the decks, cameras at the ready, to witness a spectacle that would etch itself in our memories forever. About thirty fin whales fed in harmony with several humpbacks, their gentle giants' bodies gliding effortlessly through the waters.

But then, the unexpected happened. A pod of killer whales, their sleek black bodies slicing through the waves, began to stalk and attack one of the smaller fin whales. The chase was on, with the orcas taking turns to strike leaving the fin whale bleeding and struggling to escape. We stood, frozen in horror and awe, as the drama unfolded before our eyes. The silence that followed was palpable, as we struggled to process the raw power and brutality of nature. As the orcas disappeared into the depths, we slowly regained our composure, exchanging stunned glances and whispered words. The photos and videos we captured would serve as a poignant reminder of this unforgettable encounter.

After lunch Hélène talked about bird ringing, the topic she has a personal experience in. And later Natalia talked about early discoveries of Antarctica. It was the perfect conclusion to a day that had already exceeded our wildest expectations, a day that would remain etched in our memories as one of the most unforgettable adventures of our lives.

The day started bright and clear as we anchored off the coast of Penguin Island. The weather was nothing short of perfect – sunny skies with crisp, refreshing breeze. We disembarked onto the island, carefully stepping over rocky terrain. The landscape was breathtaking, with towering cliffs and the constant chattering of penguins echoing in the air.

After a brief exploration of the island, we set off for our hike up to Petrel Crater and Deacon Peak. The ascent was difficult, but the panoramic views from the top made every step worth it. The surrounding glaciers gleamed in the sunlight, and the vast expanse of the Antarctic landscape stretched out before us. We were treated to an incredible sense of insolation up there, just us, the volcano, and the unspoiled wilderness.

After a hearty lunch back on the ship, we took to the Zodiacs for an exhilarating cruise around Turret Point. The swell had picked up significantly by this time, and the zodiacs bobbed and swayed with the rhythm of the waves. It added a thrilling element to the experience as we manoeuvred through the water, skimming past shallow reefs and getting up close to dramatic rock formations.

The scenery was striking. The cliffs of Turret Point rose sharply from the sea, while glaciers spilled down toward the water’s edge. There was something surreal about being so close to nature’s raw power. We spotted several seabirds soaring above us and few elephant seal wallows alongside the coast.

As the day drew to a close, we gathered on the ship’s outer deck for a celebration. The weather was still holding up beautifully with the sun lingering on the horizon. We sipped on hot chocolate flavoured with rum, warming our hands and toasting to the adventure we’d just shared. The Antarctic landscape was bathed in soft, gold light, casting a magical glow over the surrounding glacier. It felt like the perfect way to close out such an extraordinary day- together surrounded by sea, dramatic landscape and the sense of something truly otherworldly.

This morning started with a bit of an unexpected twist. We had originally planned to visit Devil Island, but the surrounding ice conditions made it impossible to land. The sea ice was just too thick, and the team made the wise decision to change plans on the fly. It’s not often you’re forced to improvise in a place like this, but it’s part of the expedition.

So instead, we set off on a zodiac cruise through the icy waters, weaving our way between towering tabular icebergs that looked like frozen giants standing guard over the sea. The icebergs were massive—some larger than a city block—creating an almost surreal landscape. The water around us was dotted with sea ice, some of it cracked and jagged, others smooth and frozen like a mirror. As we glided through the icy maze we passed ice floes packed with Adelie penguins, hopping around and looking as charming as ever, it was easy to feel like we were the only ones here, surrounded by so much untouched wilderness. The cold air nipped at our cheeks, but the views were absolutely worth it. Every turn revealed more incredible scenes—crystal-clear waters and chunks of ice that sparkled in the low Antarctic light.

After a quick lunch back on the ship, we made our way toward Paulet Island. The journey was just as eventful as the morning. As we cruised through the calm waters, we were fortunate enough to spot two Emperor penguins on an ice floe. They looked completely out of place, standing alone on the ice, like something from a dream. Their size and regal appearance made them stand out against the expanse of white and accompanying them tiny Adelie penguins. The captain got a bit closer with the ship to get a better view—what a rare moment! It was like finding a treasure in the middle of a frozen wilderness.

The excitement didn’t stop there. Not long after the Emperor penguins, we encountered a pod of orcas. The sight of these majestic predators cutting through the water was breathtaking. They moved with such grace, their sleek bodies darting in and out of view. Soon after, we were treated to an incredible display from a group of humpback whales. The blowholes released huge bursts of vapor, which lingered in the cold air, and for a few moments, everything felt utterly still and surreal.

By the time we reached Paulet Island, it felt like the wildlife encounters were a gift from the continent itself. Stepping onto the island was like entering a bustling, noisy world of Adelie penguins. As we approached the shore, the sheer number of penguins—around 200,000 of them—was overwhelming. They were everywhere: waddling across the rocks, squawking to each other, and creating a nearly constant chorus of activity. The smell of guano mixed with the cold air, and the ground was alive with the motion of these tiny, spirited birds. Watching them interact was fascinating.

We spent the afternoon observing the Adelie penguins, taking in the sight of their colonies and the surrounding landscape. The contrast between the vibrant life of the penguins and the barren, icy surroundings was stark, yet it made the experience even more special.

Time shifted rapidly on land, passed far too quickly and it was time already to head back to the ship, with head full of memories we sat down in the lounge to hear about plans for next day and unfortunately last day of our adventure in Antarctica because tomorrow evening it will be already a time to start heading back north towards Ushuaia.

Our day started with a bit of a surprise as we rose from our beds and headed to the dining room, our expedition leader Ali informed us that we would be swapping the schedule today to make better use of the tides. Instead of finding ourselves at Yankee Harbour we found ourselves at Half Moon Island. After breakfast we loaded into our zodiacs and zipped to the shore ready for another landing. On the shore we had a very muddy walk to a lovely chinstrap colony and for those us that fancied a long we headed over the back of the island where a very handsome Weddel seal snoozed away with some busy fur seals. Towards the end of the landing there was one more event to enjoy. It was polar plunge time!!

Those of us that had dared to take part in the crazy ritual prepared ourselves on the beach then run squealing and cheering into the ocean. Some of us came out much faster than we went in! Afterwards we quickly dressed and donned our lifejackets to take a quick ride back to the ship so we could warm up and have a good lunch. It was so much fun!

After lunch it was time to enjoy our last landing of the trip. How has it come so fast? The ship repositioned to a place called Yankee Harbour. For the last time we loaded into the zodiacs and had a lovely ride to the shore. On shore we had several options. We could walk the spit where there were several Weddel seals, then continue along the beach where the gentoo penguins were busy feeding their rapidly growing chicks.

Finally, we could take the long and more difficult walk to the glacier. It was rough and difficult terrain clambering over the moraines of glacier but once we got there, we got to set foot on the edge of the glacier. Some of us took pictures or sat in the snow whilst others stood silently contemplating this wild place. All too soon it was time to return to the ship for recap with highly entertaining presentations from Szymon and Koen before heading to the dining room for an amazing meal. As we ate our dear ship Plancius turned north and started the long journey back across the Drake Passage.

Good morning everyone, good morning. This morning Ali let us sleep in a bit as there was no wake-up call. After an unforgettable adventure we had started our way back to Ushuaia which would take us across the Drake Passage in the next two days. The day started foggy, but during breakfast it started to clear up and we could enjoy blue and sunny skies. More importantly, wind and swell were friendly leading to a calm Drake which none of us minded.

With a full day at sea, we had a chance to reflect upon our wonderful trip and maybe look at some photos as well. The expedition team also offered a day with several lectures and Szymon kicked off the program with a lecture about Climate Change. Unfortunately, climate change sees its biggest effects in the polar regions where decreasing ice levels lead to less heat reflection by snowy white surfaces and an increased absorption of this heat by the oceans.

Ali, our strong expedition leader, talked about female explorers that have made their name in Antarctica. We all know the heroic stories of men like Amundsen and Shackleton, but female explorers were just as heroic, and they deserve our admiration and appreciation.

As usual lunch was delicious and as usual, we ate way too much once again. We’ll be missing chef Khabir and his galley crew preparing delicious meals for us every day. But maybe it’s a good thing too as here and there we may have gained a pound or two.

After lunch it was time for a coffee or maybe a comfortable snooze in the cabin or a stroll out on deck for some fresh air. Suzy then took the microphone to talk about invisible creatures. We love seeing the big animals such as whales, seals and penguins, but there’s many tiny creatures that are essential to the unique eco system of the Southern Oceans.

Koen closed the lecture program with a talk about his time working as a whale watch guide in Iceland and the Kingdom of Tonga. He shared some interesting and fun stories with us, but we also got to see underwater footage and some behind the scenes photographs.

Recap closed the official program and then it was time again to fill our bellies with the delicious culinary creations of our galley team.

Good night!

Good morning everyone, good morning! Another day in the Drake Passage, but what a disappointing experience it has been so far. A Drake lake, hardly any movement and waves smaller than 1 meter. Is this really the infamous Drake Passage ;)? The upside of a Drake lake is a good night’s sleep and waking up with a healthy appetite! So, time for breakfast before attending some lectures and a trivia quiz later today.

Koen started the morning program with a lecture about photo editing. Most of us took thousands of photos and with editing software you can actually improve your photos in terms of exposure, colours and contrast among many other functionalities. Koen discussed a program which is called Lightroom, but he also stressed there’s other programs with similar processing functionalities.

Then it was Helene’s turn. Helene spent a year working on the Kerguelen Islands in the Indian Ocean. The islands are also known as Desolation Islands as they are so remote from civilization. Madagascar would be the closest at more than 3000km distance. The islands are located in sub-Antarctic waters, and you can find several penguin species there such as the King, Southern Rockhopper and Gentoo penguin to name a few. Helene shared interesting information and inspiring personal stories from her time on the islands.

After lunch we unfortunately had to return our boots. The boots that kept our feet warm, dry and comfortable during all those wonderful landings and zodiac cruises. We will surely miss having them.

The staff team conducted many lectures and recaps on several specialized topics. All this information was shared in a very informal way, little did we know that we were going to be examined on the last day onboard! A trivia quiz was planned with questions abstracted from all lectures and recaps. Who paid attention? Who was snoozing and will be losing? This afternoon we found out and it was a lot of fun. Also, the round with photos of toddler expedition guides was hilarious ;).

After the quiz, Adam Jones did a guest lecture on his work. Adam travelled the world and captured the most beautiful images that he shared with us this afternoon.

At 18:00 it was time for our formal closing of the expedition. We enjoyed a glass of bubbly wine while the captain spoke inspirational and grateful words. Ali thanked the entire crew and staff for their efforts and hard work during the trip. Then it was time for the slide show. All guides have been taking photos during the expedition and Koen put it all together in a slide show which we thankfully would take home with us and share with our family, friends and loved ones. In the meantime, we had reached the entrance of the Beagle Channel where we waited for the pilot to navigate us back to Ushuaia. We were sad our adventure was about to end, but at the same we were grateful for all the unforgettable moments and encounters which we will take home in our minds and of course with our photos and videos. One more night onboard gracious M/V Plancius, good night!

We finally arrived in Ushuaia early this morning and it was time to say our goodbyes. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said farewell to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore Ushuaia while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, remembering good times and perhaps planning for more in the future.