PLA31-25, trip log, Antarctica - Elephant Island - Weddell Sea - Polar Circle

Finally, the long-awaited journey to the White Continent is about to begin! The excitement was palpable as everyone gathers on the pier, eagerly awaiting the adventure ahead. Our beautiful expedition ship, the MV Plancius, stands ready to take us southward to the Deep South. Embarkation began at 4 p.m., and as soon as we were all on board, we kicked things off with the mandatory passenger drill, ensuring everyone is prepared before we set sail. Once that's complete, we headed to the outer decks to enjoy the breathtaking views as we began our voyage from Ushuaia, heading into the famous Beagle Channel.

About an hour later, our Expedition Leader, Adam, invited us to the lounge to introduce the rest of the expedition team and shared more about our upcoming journey to the Weddell Sea and the Antarctic Circle. The anticipation grew as the Captain took the stage and officially welcomed us aboard. With glasses of sparkling bubbles in hand, we toasted to the incredible adventure that lies ahead, enjoying some delicious canapés.

Afterward, Hotel Manager Albert invited us down to the restaurant, where we were treated to a sumptuous dinner. We were amazed by the variety and quality of the food, lovingly prepared by the talented Galley Team. Our bellies full and spirits high, we felt ready to embark on this unforgettable journey, filled with awe and wonder at the adventure that awaits us!

The night was eventful—we had been warned that the ship would start rolling around midnight, and sure enough, it did. Some handled it better than others, so breakfast wasn’t well attended.

After breakfast, Adam, our expedition leader, gave a series of mandatory briefings. They were very informative, covering the rules of the Antarctic continent, biosecurity measures to prevent the spread of diseases and invasive species, and—perhaps most exciting—the Zodiac briefing. The Zodiacs are essential for getting off the ship in remote areas without ports.

Most people appreciated that Adam kept the briefings concise, as some of us preferred to spend more time lying down.

In the afternoon, we checked our equipment to ensure we weren’t bringing any invasive species along. After thoroughly inspecting and cleaning our gear, we signed a declaration allowing us to enter Antarctica.

Koen, our photo guide, gave us an introduction to wildlife photography, followed by a recap session led by the expedition staff. Adam then explained the plans for the next day, and we heard more stories from the staff.

What a day! It felt like being back in school—but in the best way possible. Learning about the pristine region we’re about to visit is truly exciting, even if it began with a real Drake Passage experience.

After a somewhat calmer night we woke up to sunny skies and much friendlier waves. Our ship was still moving, but after yesterdays’ stability training, today almost felt like a walk in the park. We had more birds around the ship and the guides reported Black Browed, Light Mantled Sooty and Grey Headed albatrosses flying around the ship. As we are moving into colder waters the chances of seeing more marine life increased as well, so we were going to keep looking out for blows and maybe dorsal fins throughout the day.

We had another full day at the Drake Passage ahead, so the expedition team had a variety of lectures scheduled. For those of us who were going to kayak or dive, there were briefings about their activities and in between there was time to relax, have a coffee and enjoy the views of the waves that passed the ship endlessly.

Kelly, our excited Kayak Guide, gathered her kayakers in the lounge to inform them about all the procedures involving the kayaking. It addressed how we were going to enter the kayaks, how it works with weather conditions and how it works for example with getting ready and being standby in time.

In the meantime, the divers had gathered in the dining room to follow a similar briefing as the kayakers. Diving in Antarctica must be something completely surreal and mesmerizing. Seeing large pieces of ice below the surface with hopefully glances of wildlife as well as smaller sea creatures must be amazing. As such those of us who were going to dive were very excited and eager to get down and submerge into the cold waters. At 11:00 AM it was Elizabeth’s turn. Elizabeth has been studying whales for the last 10 years and during her lecture about cetaceans she definitely infected us with her passion for these intelligent, friendly and social giants of our oceans. There are many species of whales so Elizabeth focused mostly on the whales and dolphins we might encounter during our expedition. Whale season was at its peak so all guides were optimistic about our chances of having wonderful encounters.

The movement of the ship made our bodies work hard and after a tasty lunch the time was right to get some rest and have a small power nap before the next lecture would start.

At 15:00 it was time for a special lecture. M/V Plancius has two scientists travelling with the ship to conduct scientific field seal research. Giulia and Frits are here to take tissue samples from Leopard, Weddell and Crabeater seals to study toxic contamination levels in these blubbery animals. It was a very interesting lecture even more so since it felt we are very far away from oceanic chemical pollution and it’s hard to believe that there’s no escaping from it for any sea creature.

As we are gradually moving closer and closer to Antarctica, Pelin closed the lecture program with an introduction to this beautiful and pristine continent. It was yet another interesting lecture which ignited our excitement to see and explore the white continent even more.

After recap we enjoyed dinner and today the dining room looked to have more seats occupied compared to yesterday.

This morning, we woke up to a beautiful view of Elephant Island, where our ship had stayed overnight. The island had huge cliffs and glaciers, and the ocean around it was full of floating ice. It was both amazing and wild. As we ate breakfast, we looked at Point Wild, the place where 22 men from Ernest Shackleton’s expedition were stranded for over four months. They had to survive in the freezing cold, eating only penguins, seals, and some leftover sugar and biscuits while they waited for help. It was hard to imagine how they stayed alive in such harsh conditions.

From the ship, we could see a statue of Captain Luis Pardo, the man who saved them. He arrived on a small steam-powered boat called the Yelcho, which belonged to the Chilean Navy. Even though the weather was terrible, he safely rescued all 22 men. Our Historian Pelin told us this amazing story, helping us understand how brave Shackleton’s men were. Around us, the ocean was full of life—chinstrap penguins jumped in and out of the water, looking happy and playful.

As we continued sailing toward the Weddell Sea, we passed Cape Lookout, Cornwallis Island, and Clarence Island. This part of the ocean was full of wildlife, and we were lucky to see many fin whales. Some swam very close to our ship, so we could clearly see their white lower jaws. These whales have an interesting way of catching food. When they lunge feed, they often roll to the right side, making their white jaw blend with the bright sky and their dark side blend with the water. This helps them surprise their prey. The waters here were full of food, so we also saw albatrosses flying overhead and more penguins swimming nearby.

Later, we also saw humpback whales and passed by huge icebergs, which looked like floating mountains of ice. In the evening, Adam told us about the next day’s plan, and Elizabeth talked about the fin whales we had just seen. Pelin shared a fun story about Misses Chippy, the cat that accompanied Shackleton’s carpenter, McNish. To conclude the recap, Gonzalo gave us a quiz about Antarctic animals.

After a long and exciting day, we were ready for the next—our first step in Antarctica!

After a lovely overnight journey down south from the Elephant Island, we arrived in Antarctic Sound for a day of exploration. Our first stop was a landing site called Brown Bluff. This geological site is on the west side of Antarctic Sound, on Tabarin Peninsula, and just at the north entrance of Fridtjof Sound. Brown Bluff was a perfect first landing in Antarctica because it is a long pebbly beach covered with both Adelie and Gentoo penguins. The landing site is located at the base of huge, towering red-brown volcanic cliffs leaving scattered rock and wind eroded boulders along the beach front. The sounding bay has both permanent ice features and tidewaters glaciers which made this view extra spectacular. The expedition team also lead out a short walk up the moraine ridge for a view over the glacier next to the site. The view from the top was amazing; the extent of the glacial front was impressive and the almost birds eye view of the icebergs in the bay. Guests thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity for a leg stretch along the beach and up the moraine ridge to the lookout. Other species seen on the shoreline included pale-faced snowy sheathbills, Antarctic fur seals, and kelp gulls. What a fantastic first landing activity in Antarctic Sound!

Once back onboard we indulged in a delicious lunch and prepared for the afternoon. Expedition Leader Adam advised that the afternoon was planned as a true expedition. The ship continued with a southernly course into the Weddell Sea and explore the ice edge. What a stunning site to see! A mixture of sea ice and ice bergs covered the horizon, and the bridge team navigated us through the dense ice. When the ice was too dense to continue, the ship turned back up north and said farewell to the Weddell Sea.

The day wasn’t quite over yet though. Suddenly, a call came over the PA system announcing there were orcas up ahead and close to the ship! The next half an hour was spent with a group of over 25 orcas surrounding the vessel. The orcas displayed various behaviours and curiosity towards the ship, as well as towards a single humpback that was in the vicinity also. This group of orcas was deemed to be part of the B Ecotype and many calves were seen within the pod. What an incredibly exciting afternoon onboard Plancius.

Daily recap was held, explaining what we saw today and discussed the plans for tomorrow. A tasty dinner and pleasant conversations in the lounge to end the evening.

The day began with the familiar rumble of the ship's engines, a comforting soundtrack to the anticipation of another Antarctic adventure. After a hearty breakfast, we bundled into our multi-layered outfits and hopped into the Zodiacs waiting at the gangway. Our destination: Cierva Cove, a picturesque inlet near the Argentinian base, Primavera. The rocky, hilly coastline, dotted with patches of vibrant moss, painted a stark yet beautiful landscape against the cloudy sky. The water was remarkably calm, a welcome change from the Drake Passage's notorious swells.

And then, it happened. A leopard seal, a predator of legendary ferocity, was spotted. It wasn't just resting; it was engaged in a full-blown feast, tearing apart a penguin with brutal efficiency. The raw power and primal nature of the scene were both shocking and utterly captivating. To witness such a fundamental aspect of the Antarctic food chain was a privilege. The air crackled with a mix of awe and morbid fascination. Our hearts pounded, a strange cocktail of excitement and respect for the harsh realities of this frozen wilderness.

We returned to the ship, our minds still buzzing from the morning's encounter, for a well-deserved lunch. As we steamed towards our next destination, a cry went up: "Orcas!" A pod of these magnificent apex predators was approaching. The ship slowed, and we rushed to the decks, cameras clicking. The sight of these sleek, powerful creatures gliding through the icy water, their dorsal fins slicing through the surface, was breathtaking. The sheer intelligence and grace of the orcas were palpable, a reminder of the complex and awe-inspiring life that thrives in waters of this extreme environment. The orcas caused a slight delay in our schedule, but no one complained. The expedition leader used the opportunity to announce tomorrow’s plans, adding to the excitement for the days to come.

Our afternoon landing was at Palaver Point. The fog had descended, shrouding the landscape in a mystical veil, reducing visibility, but the sea remained calm. Chinstrap penguins, with their distinctive "strap" of black feathers under their chins, were everywhere, squawking and waddling, a chaotic symphony of penguin life. Fur seals, their sleek bodies glistening, lounged on the rocks, while Weddell seals, seemingly oblivious to our presence, snoozed peacefully on the shore.

The initial frustration of the limited visibility was quickly replaced by a profound sense of peace. Our guides led us to the highest point of the landing, where, instead of a panoramic view, we were asked to participate in a "silence zone." We stood in absolute silence, allowing the sounds of Antarctica to wash over us: the gentle lapping of waves, the cacophony of the chinstrap colony, the high-pitched calls of skuas feeding their chicks, and the distant, thunderous crack of a glacier calving. It was a beautiful, immersive moment of pure, unadulterated connection with nature. The fog, which had initially seemed like a hindrance, became an integral part of the experience, enhancing the sense of isolation and allowing us to truly focus on the sounds of this pristine environment. It was a moment of reflection, a reminder of the fragility and power of the natural world.

Back on the ship, the dinner conversation was animated, filled with stories and shared experiences. The excitement for tomorrow's activities, already brewing, was palpable. Every moment in Antarctica feels precious, a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness the raw beauty and untamed wilderness of this extraordinary continent. We couldn't wait to see what next day brings.

Our day in Antarctica began in spectacular fashion as we arrived at Foyn Harbour under picture-perfect conditions. A steady snowfall dusted the landscape, creating a serene, almost dreamlike atmosphere, but thankfully, there was little wind to disturb our adventure. Bundled up against the cold and filled with anticipation, we left the ship aboard our zodiacs, eager for what the morning had in store.

Almost immediately, as if drawn from the pages of a fantasy, we found ourselves surrounded by Humpback whales. These magnificent creatures became the defining theme of our morning, engaging with us in ways that exceeded our wildest expectations. With seemingly boundless curiosity and playfulness, they spy-hopped, rolled through the water, fluked their massive tails, and slapped the surface, all just inches from our astonished faces. It was an extraordinary privilege to witness such natural wonder up close, particularly at this time of year when the whales are well-fed and preparing for their migration north to warmer waters for breeding.

Amidst the thrill of whale encounters, we managed to take a brief detour to view the wreck of the whaling ship The Governoron. This haunting relic served as a stark reminder of humanity’s past exploitation of these majestic animals. The sight of the rusting remains contrasted sharply with the thriving marine life around us, highlighting how far conservation efforts have come and reinforcing the importance of protecting Antarctica’s fragile ecosystem.

After returning to the ship, we enjoyed a well-earned lunch, taking the opportunity to process the sheer incredibility of the morning’s experiences. But our adventure was far from over. By mid-afternoon, we had reached Danco Island, where the snow continued to fall gently, adding to the magic of our surroundings. Stepping ashore, we found ourselves immersed in the bustling activity of a late-season Gentoo Penguin colony. Everywhere we looked, there was action: large chicks eagerly chasing their parents for food, grumpy moulting adults standing still in contemplation, and young penguins taking their first tentative swims in the icy waters.

For some, the real thrill of the afternoon came from an entirely different challenge—the polar plunge. A few brave souls took the daring leap into the freezing Antarctic waters from the beach. Their high-pitched screams and shocked expressions provided endless entertainment for those watching from the shore, making for a memorable highlight of the day.

Just when we thought the day could not get any better, we were treated to a special outdoor barbecue on the back deck of Plancius. As the snow and mist gradually cleared, we were rewarded with a breathtaking backdrop to our meal, the pristine Antarctic landscape stretching out before us. The evening’s festivities soon took on a lively turn, with dancing—some graceful, some questionable—becoming the perfect conclusion to our extraordinary day.

Good morning, good morning, good morning! Today, Adam woke us up a bit earlier as we passed south through the Lemaire Channel. This narrow channel separates the mainland from Booth Island and becomes progressively narrower as you head further south. Also known as the Kodak Gap, it's one of the most photographed passages on the Antarctic Peninsula. So, we decided to rise early and capture some more photos. The weather is moody—not too much rain or fog, but a low cloud base and a fascinating atmosphere. As we continue south, the icy walls on either side grow higher above us, and, as always, the captain's navigation is impeccable.

A good cup of coffee and a breathtaking view—what more could we ask for to start another day in Antarctica?

After breakfast, we headed out for a Zodiac cruise around Pleneau Island. We explored the area surrounding this small island, where fledgling penguins played in the little pools along the shore. Around the corner, we reached the Iceberg Graveyard, also known as the Iceberg Garden. The ice was truly stunning in all its beauty, showcasing the life stories that water tells through its many forms. What a morning—nature is truly the best artist. Despite the drizzle and wind, we didn’t mind. We enjoyed our time outside, knowing that our clothes would dry out in the afternoon as we headed further south.

The afternoon was relatively quiet on the ship. After passing through the Penola Strait and observing the Ukrainian supply ship at Vernadsky Station, we made our way outside the sheltered islands to avoid icebergs during the dark night navigation. Some of us felt seasick, while others used the time to recover from flu symptoms.

Nevertheless, the Expedition Team delivered another round of excellent lectures. Pelin gave an engaging talk about the Belgica Expedition, which named many of the places we’ve visited in the past few days. The story is incredible, and the famous book title, The Madhouse at the End of the World, describes the experience perfectly. Pelin made the story come to life and shared many fascinating side stories.

Next, Jakub gave a talk about ice. His passion for the subject was evident, and we learned so much about the importance of ice for both our environment and us.

In the evening, Adam shared more about the plans for the evening. We will soon be south of the Antarctic Circle, a milestone on our journey from Elephant Island down to the Antarctic Circle. We were all excited—this is a significant moment in our trip!

The Galley Team served another wonderful dinner, even though the dining room wasn’t as full as usual. No matter what, we’ll be ready for our activities in the morning. So, good night, little Plancius—our home away from home.

We made the crossing of the Antarctic Circle at 66.33 degrees south as the clock ticked into the early hours, passing this significant geographical marker, on our way to our destination of Detaille Island. The weather, overcast and a bit breezy, set the tone for what would become an epic day in one of the most remote and pristine places on Earth. Despite the cold, the sense of adventure and exploration was palpable, as we found ourselves surrounded by the wild, untamed landscapes of Antarctica, literally in the middle of nowhere.

When we arrived at Detaille Island, the conditions were harsh but exhilarating. The chilly air and breezy environment didn’t dampen the excitement; instead, they added to the authenticity of the experience. This was Antarctica as we had imagined it—untouched, desolate, and beautifully rugged. It felt as if we had arrived at the edge of the Earth itself.

Our morning was split into two activities: a zodiac cruise and a landing. Half the group disembarked by the old Base W hut, a fascinating relic of the past, while the other half embarked on a short zodiac cruise. The latter turned out to be a cold, choppy and wet ride with some curious Adelie Penguins the highlight. After about an hour, the groups switched, ensuring that everyone got a taste of both experiences.

The Base W hut was undoubtedly the focal point of our visit. Left exactly as it was when it was abandoned in 1960, it stood as a fascinating time capsule, offering an authentic glimpse into the past. The hut had been hastily evacuated by its inhabitants, who crossed the sea-ice to reach safety aboard an awaiting ship. The thought of those who had once lived and worked there, in such extreme conditions, was palpable. We wandered through the hut, carefully preserved to maintain its original atmosphere—complete with old equipment, personal belongings, and other artifacts. It was almost surreal to step into this moment frozen in time, a poignant reminder of the harsh realities of life in the Antarctic.

The afternoon was set to be an adventure. The plans had undergone several changes throughout the day, and we eventually set course south into Lallemand Fjord. Initially, it seemed as though the weather and visibility would thwart our plans; heavy snow and poor visibility had many of us doubting the wisdom of continuing. There were even discussions about turning around and heading north again. However, as we approached the end of the fjord, the skies began to clear, and the first shout rang out from one of the expedition staff—Minke Whales had been spotted!

This was just the beginning. The sightings escalated quickly, with Humpback Whales soon following and then, to our sheer amazement, Orcas appeared near the glacier. The excitement on board was palpable. Adam, our experienced expedition leader, wasted no time. Zodiacs were lowered in record time, and we soon found ourselves amid an incredible cetacean spectacle.

The Orcas, the stars of the show, displayed their characteristic playfulness and curiosity, often swimming within inches of our zodiacs, offering an up-close and personal view of these magnificent creatures. We were mesmerized by their beauty and intelligence as they interacted with the surrounding environment. The Orcas were not alone, however. Minke Whales, usually seen in small numbers, were present in staggering quantities—at least 20 were spotted in the area. The Humpback Whales added to the drama, their massive bodies surfacing gracefully as the Orcas seemed to harass them, creating a dynamic and intense interaction.

It was difficult to know where to look. The zodiacs were surrounded by these three species of cetaceans, all interacting with one another. Every moment offered something new—no one had ever witnessed such an incredible gathering of whales in one spot. The experience was awe-inspiring, and no words could truly capture the magnitude of the scene. Alongside the whales, a few Fur Seals and Crabeater Seals also made appearances, adding to the magic of the moment.

Eventually, after what felt like an eternity of wonder, we returned to the Plancius, where we celebrated crossing the Antarctic Circle in style. A glass of bubbles and a themed pub quiz marked the conclusion of what had been an unforgettable day—a day filled with exploration, discovery, and unparalleled wildlife encounters. Our time below the Polar Circle would forever be etched in our memories as one of the most extraordinary days of our lives.

Our night on board was a lot calmer than the previous night when we were rolling quite a bit and that made sleeping a little less comfortable. However, with calm seas and after our unique encounter with those large numbers of wonderful orcas, humpbacks and minke whales, we slept like babies. And a good night sleep makes hungry, so soon we enjoyed our breakfast.

This morning, we would spend on the ship as we had quite some distance to cover to our next destination. We had left the Antarctic Circle behind us and were gradually heading up north bound. Dorian Bay at Damoy was our next stop, but we wouldn’t arrive until after lunch. However, most of us didn’t mind staying on the ship. So far, our days had been filled with beautiful landscapes, icebergs and wildlife that it was good to have some time to process and reflect.

At 11:00 AM, Elizabeth shared her passion for- and knowledge about the charismatic humpback whales. Our encounters had been incredible and surreal, and it was great to learn even more about these intelligent gentle giants. Elizabeth’s enthusiasm was contagious and made us hope for many more whale and orca encounters. After lunch we arrived at Damoy and for a moment it seemed that even the sun would come out. Maybe the sun had heard us as it disappeared immediately, but that didn’t stop us from landing. The weather was good, and the seas were calm so we headed out on the zodiacs.

Damoy was discovered and named by the members of the French Antarctic Expedition (1903-1905) under the leadership of Jean Baptiste Charcot. Later, this site served as an entry point to Antarctica for explorers and scientists as the nearby glacier top was suitable for landing with small planes that only needed short runways. Today a hut remains, and this hut served as a waiting lounge for scientists waiting for their flights out. The hut was built in 1973 and was used until 1993. It’s a historic site managed by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. The hut now serves as a museum and refuge in case of emergency. Many items remain in the hut today and it was wonderful to have a look around in this extraordinary waiting lounge.

However, Damoy is also a lovely place to stretch the legs and enjoy several Gentoo penguin colonies. At the end of the season most adult penguins have left, whereas many chicks born in the 24/25 season were still around and boy did we enjoy their company. They were curious, goofy, cute and what not! It was wonderful to witness these cute penguins, and we took many photos and videos.

They say that in case of having a bad day you just need to look at a penguin video to cheer up, well today it was once again proved that that is very true. We couldn’t stop smiling, the penguins had conquered a permanent place in our hearts.

After recap and dinner, we felt tired, but very happy. Tomorrow would be another expedition day, and we couldn’t wait to see what beautiful encounters we would experience next.

We woke up this morning in the beautiful Patagonia Bay. Although the fog was quite thick, it added a magical touch to the mountains around us. After a delicious breakfast, we set out for a zodiac cruise. Everywhere we looked, we could hear the breaths of whales echoing in all directions. There were so many whales around, some were logging (resting), while others were playfully swimming close to our zodiacs. It was incredible to see them so nearby. Despite the snow, many guests had their cameras and GoPro’s ready, trying to capture the moment. Along with the whales, we saw plenty of fur seals swimming and rolling around in the water and on the ice floes, adding to the excitement.

After the cruise, it was time to return to the ship for lunch. Then, we set sail for the next destination: Paradise Harbor. The journey took about four hours, giving everyone a chance to relax and enjoy the surroundings. Around 3 PM, Adam led an early daily recap, sharing plans for the next day’s adventures. Steffi gave an insightful talk about fur seals, explaining their behavior and diet. Joyce wrapped up the recap with a reminder to cherish the stories behind our photos, encouraging us to reflect on the moments captured, especially those of the incredible animal behaviour we’ve witnessed.

When we arrived at Paradise Harbor, we took part in a split zodiac landing and cruise. Half of the group went on land first, while the other half explored the area by zodiac. After about an hour and a half, we swapped. From the water, we were able to enjoy stunning views of the landscape, and some guests were lucky enough to spot a minke whale and a leopard seal. On land, we visited Base Brown, a research station that is only active in the summer. A lot of multidisciplinary research is done there, such as biology, limnology, and ornithology. The research station, surrounded by gentoo penguins, was quiet and peaceful. Some of us took a walk up the hill, although the start was a bit slippery (many had to clean penguin poop off their clothes later!). But once we got past the tricky section, the rest of the walk was much easier, and the views from the top were stunning.

At 7 PM, we returned to the ship to set course for tomorrow’s adventures. It was another wonderful day in Antarctica, filled with amazing wildlife and stunning landscapes.

Today would be our last day operating in Antarctic waters. We had another exploration morning planned, making it our third new operational location for Oceanwide Expeditions. Expedition Leader Adam woke us up early to make the most of the day and we headed to the restaurant for a delicious breakfast and coffee prepared by our galley team. At the same time, our bridge team navigated us into Buls Bay, located on the southeastern side of Brabant Island. This two nautical mile wide bay is on the north side of D’Ursel point in the Palmer archipelago and on the north side of the Gerlache Strait. In the bay, we were surrounded by towering mountainous peaks covered with fresh snow and cold harsh ice. The landscape we could see included Yunak Peak, Galen Peak, Cool Sumit and Mount Imhotep. Buls Bay was named during the 1897-1899 Belgian Antarctic Expedition lead by famous polar explorer Gerlache. Charles Buls was a Belgian politician and mayor of the city Brussels. He was a big supporter of the Gerlache expedition and therefore it was applicable to name this new bay after the man.

Buls Bay was a tad on the windy side with increasing wind speeds as the morning went on. However, that did not stop us from exploring! The zodiacs were lowered to the water and guests loaded into the zodiacs to set off on an exploration. The bay had a significant amount of ice, and it was stunning to drive the zodiac through the ice conglomerations. On the zodiac we could hear the ice crackling, breaking, the oxygen bubbles being released back into the atmosphere, and the swell moving up and down with the rising tide. A few humpback whales and Antarctic fur seals were seen during the cruise but mainly the focus was on the towering glacial cliffs surrounding the bay and taking in our last moments in Antarctica. Despite some rain and wind, it was a beautiful last operation of our voyage.

After we were back onboard and changed into warm clothes we headed into the restaurant for a lovely lunch. In the afternoon, intermitted with rest, guests enjoyed time on the bridge and in the lounge taking in the beautiful views. Expedition guide Joyce gave a lecture about the life on the seabed floor. She spoke about the exploration and research projects trying to explain and map the seabed floor and an introduction to the different species living down there. She shared stories about the sea spiders, anemones, and sponges. She also spoke about the exciting research project she was involved with in Greenland; how cool!

The sun, a welcome and almost forgotten friend, finally broke through the clouds this morning, casting a golden glow across the turbulent Drake Passage. After days of battling the elements in Antarctica, the relative calm was a balm to our weary souls. The waves, though still present, were a gentler reminder of the passage's notorious reputation. We gathered after breakfast, eager to learn and process the incredible experiences we'd just had. Koen, our resident photography expert, shared invaluable tips on editing our Antarctic snapshots in Lightroom, helping us capture the true essence of the frozen continent. We learned how to bring out the subtle blues of glacial ice and the stark contrast of penguins against the white expanse.

Then, Simon, with his deep knowledge of the avian world, captivated us with a talk about albatrosses. These magnificent birds, masters of the air, were our constant companions, soaring effortlessly around the ship. We spotted wandering, black-browed, and royal albatrosses, each a testament to the resilience of life in this harsh environment. The sheer size and grace of the wandering albatross, with its immense wingspan, filled us with awe. We learned about their incredible journeys, their ability to stay aloft for years at a time, and the challenges they face in a changing world. Lunch followed, a welcome break to refuel and share stories of our Antarctic adventures.

The afternoon's lectures took on a more somber tone. Jakub, a glaciologist, presented a stark and sobering picture of the state of glaciers and ice sheets in a warming climate. He showed us data and images that illustrated the rapid retreat of ice, a stark reminder of the fragility of the Antarctic ecosystem. The sheer scale of the ice loss was alarming, and we felt a collective sense of responsibility to protect this extraordinary place.

Elizabeth, our whale and conservation expert, then introduced us to the complex world of global species conservation. She explained the importance of the IUCN Red List, the challenges of species protection, and the biases that can influence conservation efforts. We discussed the delicate balance of the Antarctic ecosystem and the threats posed by climate change, pollution, and tourism. The lecture was a call to action, reminding us that our journey was not just a sightseeing trip, but a chance to become ambassadors for this incredible continent.

As the sun began to set, casting longer shadows across the rolling waves, Adam, our expedition leader, gathered us for a daily recap. As usual, he presented the plan for tomorrow and gave us a weather forecast, a crucial piece of information as we navigated the Drake Passage. The news was reassuring; the conditions were expected to remain relatively calm, a relief for many of us who were still recovering from the previous days' rough seas…

Our last day at sea. We woke up to calmer seas and a clear blue sky—Drake was treating us kindly today. Even the long-missed sun finally showed its face after days of low clouds. The birders were up early, admiring the majesty of a Snowy Albatross that briefly accompanied our beautiful ship on its journey back to Ushuaia. Watching the effortless flight of the largest albatross on Earth was truly a special moment to cherish. Around 8 a.m., Albert called us for breakfast. As always, the galley team had prepared a delicious spread for us.

Our daily presentation program began with Steffi, who gave a fascinating and engaging talk about her experience as a gas balloon pilot in one of Europe’s oldest aviation races. After Steffi, our Expedition Leader, Adam, took the stage. He spoke about his time working at research bases in the Antarctic Peninsula and South Georgia, offering valuable insights into life in these remote locations in modern times. Then, of course, it was time for lunch—another delicious buffet prepared by the galley team.

In the early afternoon, as we neared the entrance of the Beagle Channel, Koen shared stories of his time in Tonga as a whale-watching guide. It was fascinating to learn about the diverse backgrounds of our guides and the unique paths that led them to the White Continent. After Koen’s talk, we had the opportunity to watch the famous 1929 documentary Around Cape Horn. Originally a silent film, it was later narrated by Captain Irving Johnson. It was eye-opening to see the harsh conditions sailors once faced when cargo ships had no choice but to navigate the treacherous waters of Cape Horn.

Around 6 p.m., when we were in the calmer waters of the Beagle Channel, the Expedition Team invited us to the lounge to watch the Voyage Slideshow, prepared by Koen. Seeing the precious moments we had shared over the past two weeks on screen brought tears to our eyes. It was a truly unique and unforgettable voyage.

After the slideshow, the Captain took the stage once more to bid us farewell, and we raised our glasses, filled with bubbles, in a final toast.

This morning, Adam woke us up one last time with his familiar call: "Good morning, good morning!" His cheerful wake-up will surely be missed. We made our way to the breakfast restaurant once more, sharing our final meal aboard while exchanging goodbyes with the wonderful stewards who had been so kind and welcoming throughout our journey. Meanwhile, the expedition team had already taken care of our luggage, and soon, Albert announced that the ship had been cleared by the authorities and the buses to the airport had arrived.

With heartfelt hugs and warm smiles, we bid farewell to our fellow passengers—friends with whom we had shared this unforgettable adventure. As we stepped off the ship for the last time, we took one final glance at the beautiful Plancius, a vessel that had carried us through an extraordinary journey. This expedition had been nothing short of incredible, and the memories we made will stay with us forever.