HDS26-25, trip log, Falkland Islands - South Georgia - Antarctica

At around 4pm, we started to gather on Ushuaia pier. We looked up at the Hondius, the ship that would be our home for the next nineteen days. We had travelled from all over the world. Some of us had spend time in Ushuaia and Patagonia, while others had just arrived. We were both nervous and excited to meet our cabin mates, see our new home, and get started on a trip that for many had been a dream for years.

We were welcomed onboard by the Expedition Team and Hotel department. Once we were settled in our cabins we then had to attend a mandatory safety briefing. We practiced an abandon ship drill where we were shown the location of the lifeboats and what to do in an emergency.

We were then invited to the Captains Welcome evening where we toasted to the voyage and where we met Chris the Expedition Leader. Chris gave us some essential information on how the expedition would look and he introduced us to the whole expediton team.

We had a buffet dinner in the lounge and then enjoyed a beautiful evening outside on the bow and outer decks. The pink light in the Beagle Channel was stunning and we were so excited to catch glimpses of our first dolphins, whales, and albatross species.

After a quiet first night, we woke up to a calm sea with the silhouette of Tierra del fuego still in sight. Some of us had been up and outside for hours already to observe the different seabird species – including our first albatrosses - that were effortlessly following the ship. It was nice to feel the breeze of the ocean as it was not too cold yet to be outside and have a walk around the ship.

The day was filled with briefings about IAATO, biosecurity and zodiac operations. Jess introduced us to the world of whales and the species we might see on the voyage. Gabi invited us to hear more about our first destination of the voyage – the Falkland Islands. We also received our boots, that would serve us well for the next 2.5 weeks.

After lunch it started to become foggy outside which made it a little more difficult to find whales or dolphins that would come close to the ship. Our expedition team and the bridge team did not give up to keep a look out. Dolphins came close to the ship but disappeared as quickly as they came.

We spent some time to get to know our fellow travellers, discover all the different areas of the ship, and unpack our things.

In the afternoon Chris and his expedition team invited us to the Lounge to explain the plans for tomorrow and the daily recap.As the day came to an end, the sun started to sink behind a layer of clouds just over the horizon, tinting the ocean and the giant petrels, that have accompanied us all day, into a golden light.

We couldn’t wait to see what the Falkland Islands had to offer…

Chris stood leaning against the dashboard. Through the windows of the captain's bridge, the blurry outlines of approaching land could be discerned. The Hondius ship, gently swaying from side to side and cutting through the waves with its powerful bow, was approaching the Falkland Islands (Las Malvinas).

There was a rather thick fog, which gave the surrounding world an ethereal and even slightly eerie appearance. The fog hung over the sea, blurring the horizon line, and, like a shroud, enveloped the island that was destined to become the first stretch of land on the path of our expedition.

Exactly fifteen minutes before breakfast, at 6:45 am, Chris, whispering, "Well, my friends, let's get it started," approached the microphone, pressed the loudspeaker button, and began his morning speech: "Good morning, Hondius, good morning..."

During breakfast, many of us felt a slight excitement, as it was our first full expedition day. Two landings were planned for the day: in the morning on the island with the ominous name Carcass Island, and after lunch on another island called Saunders Island. Not everyone in our group had been on expeditions before, which added to the nervousness. What to wear, what to bring, and how not to forget anything important while not overloading the backpack with unnecessary items were common concerns. Despite the detailed explanations from the expedition team members the day before, a mild uncertainty still lingered.

Hondius dropped anchor, sailors lowered several Zodiacs into the water. All members of the expedition team, except for two people, got into these black inflatable motorboats and, taking all the necessary equipment, rushed towards the shore, raising clouds of spray. It turned out to be a routine procedure: first, the expedition team lands, assesses the situation and weather conditions, and then the expedition leader gives the "green light" for us to exchange the ship's iron decks for the solid ground of the land.

We gathered in the Zodiac boarding area and, in small groups of ten, began to board the Zodiacs. As soon as all the seats in the boat were occupied, the Zodiac, led by an experienced guide, set in motion. Quickly gaining speed, it raced towards the shore. The fog, parting before us, revealed new stretches of land, the engine roared, splashes flew in all directions, showering us like rain and enhancing the sense of adventure we were experiencing. To those watching us from the deck, the Zodiacs resembled mischievous children who, as soon as the rain stopped, rushed outside and, with their childlike feet, ran through puddles, creating splashes, making adults shake their heads and wag their fingers.

On the shore, Chris, Marcello, Julian, Pierre, Ashleigh, and other members of the expedition team were already waiting for us. The Zodiacs nosed into the white Falkland sand, and one by one, we climbed onto the shore, swinging our legs over the side. The beach was shallow, and it was low tide, so the Zodiacs had to stop slightly short of the shore when their bottoms began to brush against the fine Falkland sand. Accordingly, before confidently setting foot on land, we had to take about a dozen steps ankle-deep in water. Thankfully, each of us was wearing rubber boots, so walking through the water posed no problem.

The sandy beach strip was replaced by tufts of tussock grass as we moved further inland. Sometimes we had to step through marshy areas. The air smelled simultaneously of the sea, grass, and peat — a very unusual combination of natural aromas.

In fact, we landed on a narrow isthmus. After passing through a densely overgrown grassy hollow, we found ourselves back on the beach but on the other side of the island. It was, I must say, much more picturesque than the one we initially landed on, not only because the sandy strip was much wider but also because the beach was bustling with quite a large number of local fauna representatives.

On a little hill, surveying everything with their proud gaze, stood a family of geese. The male and female, being the same size, sharply differed in the color of their feathers: one was entirely covered in absolutely snow-white feathers, and the other had brown feathers, but the chest was speckled in a thin black-and-white stripe. The goslings were all uniformly gray. Treading the ground with their small steps, they constantly bent their heads to the ground, plucking edible vegetation with their sharp beaks.

On the waves, a couple of Steamer ducks swayed. The male had an orange beak, and the female had a green one. These birds had long since forgotten how to fly. Why bother? The climate here is favorable, with no sharp temperature fluctuations, so there's no need to migrate. All their food is right in front of them, no need to fly for it, and the nest is within walking distance, just a few dozen meters from the shoreline. The most amusing thing about Steamer ducks is how they quack. No, it's not quacking; it's more like a cross between the chirping of a cicada and the sounds from some old computer game from the early 90s.

And here are our first penguins — Magellanic penguins! They are quite small, peculiar, constantly waddling and assisting themselves with their wings. Nevertheless, they are completely unbothered by it, strolling along the beach and looking in different directions. Instead of building nests, they dig deep burrows and sit in them, waiting for the arrival of their offspring. Yes, it's dark and dirty, but no skuas will ever steal their eggs. Well, except for the occasional curious penguin chick, wanting to see what lies beyond the burrow, inadvertently emerges on the surface — and here the troubles begin. The malicious skua only needs that, instantly diving down, grabbing the little one, and that's it. It sits somewhere on a rock and pecks at its bloody catch. We also watched Commerson’s dolphins surfing in the waves remarkably near to the shore.

Ahead of us was a quite long walk. Three to four kilometers from the landing site stood a hamlet. The locals, the owners of the island, had been living there for a long time, raising sheep and catching fish. Around the houses, there was a garden with flowers and shady coniferous trees. Every time travelers arrived on their island, they baked hundreds of pastries and treated all the guests. It was the same this time, but before enjoying tea and indulging in local pastries, as mentioned earlier, we had to cover some distance.

The path led along the slope of the hill along the seaside. On our right, sheep were grazing, and local birds fluttered around, while on the left, the bay of Carcass Island spread out, in the middle of which stood our ship Hondius, anchored proudly and confidently. Despite the fog showing no signs of lifting, occasionally settling as droplets of condensation on our clothes, the physical exertion of walking had the desired effect, and we began to feel a bit warm. Some of us had to make stops to take off sweaters or jackets. The situation was complicated by the fact that, according to the rules, nothing could be placed on the ground. We had to ask for help from other travelers: "Could you hold my backpack for a moment?" — "Yes, of course, no problem!"

Reaching the house of our hospitable hosts, we took off our boots and entered the living room, where tea, coffee, and pastries were already waiting for us. The table was literally groaning under the weight of the feast. Relaxing on the sofas and chairs, we began to savor the treats our hosts had prepared, fully appreciating the skill of the local bakers. How wonderful it was to catch our breath after a long walk!

The morning time quickly passed. Look, and it's already approaching noon! It's time to return to the ship! The Zodiacs were already waiting for us near a small concrete pier. We put on life jackets, boarded the boats, and rushed back on board the Hondius. Pastries are undoubtedly good, but a full lunch is even better!

While we gathered for lunch, the sailors raised the anchor, and our ship headed to our afternoon activity location — the Saunders Island. It was not far away, so we had no more than an hour for post-lunch rest, and even less for our guides. As soon as the anchor chain rattled, the brave participants of our expedition team boarded the Zodiacs and headed to the shore of Saunders Island to make some preparations for our landing. Joyful Commerson's dolphins, thrilled that guests had finally arrived, playfully leaped out of the water, organizing an honorary escort for the Zodiacs all the way to the shore.

Sometime after, the official start of the operation was given. Zodiac after Zodiac, we raced across the smooth water and, as soon as we reached the shore, disembarked, hastily getting rid of the heavy life jackets. White fine sand, the calm of the water, and... penguins! The latter stared at us in complete bewilderment, flapping their peculiar wings and trying to understand who we were and what we wanted.

The local residents, the owners of Saunders Island, arrived in two cars to personally meet and greet us. Parking their cars near the shoreline, they opened their trunks, offering us some interesting souvenir products.

The trail was already marked. A walk of one and a half to two kilometers awaited us along the seaside. Gentoo penguins sat on their nests, watching over their chicks. The chicks were already quite big, and some of them, gaining courage, went on short walks around their nests. The parents zealously guarded them, clapping and blocking their path with their wings: "Quiet, quiet, stay, where are you going? No, it's too early for you!" It was amusing to watch as they turned their necks toward us, clicked their beaks, as if saying to us: "Move along, guys, we have enough problems here!" And indeed, they had plenty of problems. Nasty skuas constantly circled above, keeping a sharp eye on the penguin colony. God forbid any penguin to be inattentive; instantly, a skua would swoop down and snatch a penguin chick! It would grab it in its beak and carry it away to a place where no penguin had ever returned. Nature here is cruel, but what can you do. Here is the colony of Magellanic penguins. Like their counterparts we saw in the morning, these also sat in their burrows, consumed by curiosity, peeking outside and looking at us.

On the slope, more appropriately described as a "cliff," a colony of shags was situated, and right next to them, a patch of land was claimed by rockhopper penguins. Small, agile troublemakers, living up to their name, were constantly in motion, hopping from rock to rock. We lingered by them for a long time, taking photos and simply observing their bustle. Nevertheless, the most important awaited us ahead.

Eventually, the trail led us to a colony of black-browed albatrosses. These enormous and majestic birds sat in nests of perfect cylindrical shape. Most of the albatrosses had already raised their offspring. Spotting an albatross chick wasn't an easy task. We had to wait for the parent to rise on its feet, and only then could we see the small gray living bundle beneath it. Some albatross parents allowed their chicks to admire the outside world, holding them snugly under their wings.

Parental duties weighed heavily on the albatrosses. Sitting in their nests, they gazed longingly at the sea, dreaming of the moment when they could finally spread their enormous wings and, taming the wind, soar over the waves into the distance. Albatrosses are made for flight, and only the ancient instinct, as old as the Earth itself, compelled them to sit still in the nest and attend to their offspring. Some albatrosses emitted long, mournful sounds, probably expressing the emotions that had accumulated within them. While preening their chicks' feathers, it seemed as if they were whispering in their ears: "Grow up quickly, and then we'll fly together! I'll show you how the moonlight plays on the sea waves and how whales shoot fountains into the sky. I'll teach you to challenge the wind and catch squids!" Oh, if only it could happen sooner!

Our guides showed us where to take the best photographs and made sure none of us, absorbed in the spectacle, fell off the cliff. Albatrosses, glancing at us, furrowed their brows but still posed for photos.

Having feasted our eyes on albatrosses, we started our return journey. On the way back to the landing site, we had the opportunity to turn right and find ourselves on another beach, opposite to the one we arrived on. White, towering waves, ominously roaring, crashed onto the sand. Fearless Magellanic and Gentoo penguins eagerly rushed towards them, disappearing in the white foam. Some penguins, on the contrary, emerged from the sea foam, as if Venus herself, having swum and hunted, appeared in white foam, heading to their nests to swap places with their mates, thereby giving them the opportunity to go hunting in the sea.

But what penguins are standing there near the shoreline? Oh, these are the King penguins! There were only a few of them, some still chicks adorned in huge, clumsy brown pajamas made of soft warm feathers. What a surprise! Of course, we all tried to capture at least a few photographs of these magical creatures.

Walking briskly past the penguins were kelp and dolphin gulls. They turned their heads and repeatedly pecked the sand, devouring the crustaceans hiding in it. Among small sand dunes, oyster catchers strolled, astonishing us with their long bright red bills. Leisurely, rocking from side to side, steamer ducks ambled here and there. A turkey vulture circled above, and just like at the beginning of our walk, skuas and caracaras soared in the air, striking terror into all the other feathered inhabitants of Saunders Island.

On the slopes of the hill, occasionally drawing attention with loud bleats, sheep grazed. In the local setting, they seemed to perceive us as something outlandish, if not extraterrestrial, certainly as something entirely out of harmony with the surrounding landscape.

One way or another, it was time to return to the ship. As soon as the last of us were on board, the Hondius set course for Stanley, the capital of the Falkland (Malvinas) Islands. In my opinion, a very decent first day of the expedition, wouldn't you agree?

This morning, we arrived at Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. It was a calm and overcast morning, which made for an easy Zodiac ride to the jetty. From here we could wander along the waterfront to the museum. First stop was the cathedral with its large whalebone arches. Several cafes and souvenirs shops vied for our attention, before we could make it to the museum. The museum houses a great collection showing the life on the Falkland Islands. There were many artifacts, like a collection of saddles and anything horsy, a diorama of local wildlife, whale skulls, and an interactive room focused on the stories of the islanders during the Falkland war.

Wandering the little streets of Stanley, we could see gardens full of flowers, but also curiosities like military tanks and a collection of whale skeletons.

After a few hours in town, it was time to head back to the ship, some bags bulging with local products. The gin distillery was particularly popular. As we enjoyed our lunch, we sailed through the narrows that separate Port Stanley from the open ocean.

After lunch we watched a documentary about the conflict between the UK and Argentina over the Falkland Islands in 1982.

In the afternoon we started preparing for our next destination, South Georgia. At the mandatory briefing we watched a movie about the amazing and unique wildlife of South Georgia and how best to protect it. Chris ran us through the biosecurity measures that we would have to do before we were allowed to go ashore in South Georgia, like thoroughly cleaning all our outdoor gear from any seeds and soil.

During recap we heard amongst other topics more about the dolphin species we had seen from Andi and learned weird and wonderful facts about the Falkland Islands from Katja. Chris outlined the program for the next few sea days and then it was already time for another fantastic Hondius dinner.

This was our second sea day with the option of sleeping in a bit – but the few early birds had the luck of seeing some White-chinned petrels passing close to the ship. Those of us who woke up a little later to Chris’ wake-up call could see out of the portholes or windows, a clear morning – with some white water about.

The first lecture was given by Katja about the Southern Ocean – she explained how the chemistry has changed in this ocean in recent years, due to climate change. As the ocean warms, it has also become more acidic leading to animals not being able to fully develop their calcium carbonate outer skeletons or ‘shells’. It was also astonishing to hear the Southern Ocean is the stormiest place on the earth and is an uninterrupted ocean circling Antarctica which creates a freeway for winds and waves to strengthen like nowhere else on earth. This significant region of the earth influences the atmospheric circulation and composition of the entire Southern Hemisphere and beyond.

Whilst the ever-optimistic bird watchers bravely kept a lookout around the ship many of us enjoyed a cup of coffee or tea in the lounge as the clocks went forward, waiting for the next lecture. Mark showed us all the interesting Albatrosses and Petrels we may see on our way to South Georgia, or already have seen in the Southern Ocean. There were lots of interesting details and facts on migration routes, feeding behaviour, size and weight – and maybe most importantly – how the Wandering albatross is now deemed a group that consists of four different species one of which is named the Snowy albatross.

As all guests were milling around the ship, we heard the announcement ‘Killer whales at 12 ‘o’ clock’! All staff and guests moved to the bridge or outer decks as the ship turned to get see two huge killer whales. We did then see them briefly at the stern but just as quick as they appeared, they were gone. We later learned from Ashleigh that these were Type B killer whales who are more often seen around the pack ice hunting seals’; however, they do make offshore movements to remove the greenish/yellow tinge on their bodies which is caused by diatoms. Diatom build up can impede the animals in the water; therefore, they travel to mildly warmer waters where the diatoms fall off.

We also heard from Marcello who told us all about South Georgia History. The island was first visited in 1675 by Antoine de la Roché, an English merchant born in London to a French father. He left Hamburg in 1674 as a passenger on a 350-ton vessel bound for Peru. During the return journey, it was en route to Salvador in Brazil around Cape Horn. While trying to navigate through the Le Maire Strait near Staten Island, it was driven off course far to the east. In April 1675, the vessel found refuge in a bay of an unknown island where it anchored for 14 days. La Roché published a report of his voyage in London in 1678 in which he described the new land. South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands were incorporated as a distinct British overseas territory in 1985.

Our Expedition Team delivered recap in the Observation Lounge where Jess showed us the wingspans of Antarctic birds, from the smallest petrel right up to the Royal and Wandering albatross. After a delicious dinner, we were treated with popcorn in the lounge and saw the recent released movie “Endurance”, the epic journey of Shackleton and his men (and animals) to Antarctica – and the discovery of Endurance on the seafloor, 3000 meters below the surface. What a wonderful historic way to end our day on our way to South Georgia.

Our second full day at sea on our approach to South Georgia dawned foggy, but following another hearty breakfast the morning started with a presentation by Ashleigh on ‘Bioacoustics - ID by sound’. Here she introduced us to some of the sounds of the sea, both anthropogenic and natural. This was followed by the amazing sight of the A76b iceberg looming out of the fog midmorning. Measuring 20nm x 7nm and 40m in height this substantial piece of ice shelf broke away from its parent iceberg A76, which calved from the Filchner-Ronne ice shelf in Antarctica in May 2021. Prior to breaking into three pieces, A76 was the world’s largest iceberg. It floated through the Weddell Sea and by 2023 had reached the South Atlantic near South Georgia.

The mornings lecture programme continued post iceberg with Julian’s lecture on the ‘Geology of South Georgia’ our soon to be destination.

The foggy patches continued after lunch and finally began the thin out later in the afternoon which was perfectly timed to see three Humpback Whales feeding next to the ship. Charlotte provided the afternoon lecture on the seal species that we would hopefully encounter, including elephant seals, fur seals, weddel seals, crabeater seals, and the imfamous leopard seals. Recaps before dinner were provided by Katja on the A76 iceberg and lenticular clouds and by Pierre on Whaling in the Southern Ocean.

On this beautiful morning our Expedition leader Chris woke us up with some good news: after 2 days of fog and clouds, sunshine welcomed our first sight of the island of South Georgia. For many it was a fream come true – seeing the island come into view on the horizon. Shortly after breakfast we headed out to the Zodiac deck and made our way towards Grytviken, which is nestled within a sheltered harbor surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Once a bustling whaling station, Grytviken now stands as a poignant reminder of South Georgia’s human history. Grytviken was established in 1904 by Carl Anton Larsen as the first whaling station in South Georgia. At its peak, it was a hub for processing whales harvested in nearby waters. We explored the rusting remnants of processing facilities and oil tanks with a guide called Bodil from the South Georgia Heritage Trust who offered insight into the once-thriving, now controversial, whaling industry.

We visited the museum and the Post office and continued our way to the small cemetery where the legendary explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton is buried. After his ship Endurance was trapped in ice during the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, Shackleton and his crew undertook an incredible journey to South Georgia to seek rescue. Grytviken marks the final chapter of his remarkable life. A toast with whisky at his gravesite, a tradition for visitors, honors his spirit of resilience and was something that we could not miss. The beaches around Grytviken were alive with elephant seals, fur seals and their pups, and some molting king penguins. The seals lounged on the grass and around the buildings while penguins waddled by, curious but unbothered by human presence. Giant petrels soared overhead, adding to the dynamic wildlife scene.

After we all headed back to our ship, we had lunch and our captain repositioned our floating base towards St. Andrews Bay. Just a short time after, the expedition team prepared our landing site. A zodiac ride took us to the pristine shores of St. Andrews Bay, home to one of the largest king penguin colonies in the world. The scene is unforgettable: tens of thousands of king penguins standing shoulder to shoulder, their golden neck feathers gleaming in the sunlight. These majestic birds dominate the landscape, and their distinct calls create a symphony of sound. Observing their intricate social behavior offers a unique glimpse into their lives. We were able to walk all the way along a river into the valley of a glacier. Elephant seals, some weighing over 3,000 kg, basked on the beach and in the plains. Fur seals darted in and out of the surf, playful and agile, but many were scattered on the green plains. Skuas and Kelp gulls patroled the skies and the ground, scavenging and hunting in this abundant ecosystem.The backdrop of glaciers descending from the Allardyce Range enhanced the bay’s dramatic beauty. The contrast of icy blues, vibrant penguins, and lush green mosses made for unparalleled photographic opportunities.

At 9pm the last of us returned to the ship. Everybody was excited and after Chris` short briefing for the upcoming day, we fell happily into our beds. South Georgia is not just a destination; it’s a profound experience blending history, wildlife, and unparalleled natural beauty.

We woke up today with Hondius anchored in Fortuna Bay, home to another King Penguin Colony. Conditions were good with some sunshine and only a light breeze, making for an easy landing. After breakfast, half the group went ashore, with the other half going on a Zodiac cruise around the bay, before swapping halfway through the morning.

Onshore, we were met by inquisitive seal pups defended by their feisty mothers, lines of fat King penguins returning from the ocean, and more groups of skinny penguins heading the other way, out to sea for another feed. We walked along the beach towards the King penguin colony, passing by large numbers of dead fur seals – both mature males and pups; seals have been badly affected by avian flu in the last two years. Once at the colony we took-in the incredible sight of the densely packed King penguins and their nearly mature brown fluffy chicks.

On the Zodiac cruise we enjoyed the sunshine and took-in the incredible scenery with views up to the glaciers. We watched numerous seal pups playing on the rocks and taking their first swims near the shore. We also saw a few Elephant seals and some Gentoo penguin colonies higher up on the slopes.

With the seas around South Georgia building, we made the short transit over lunch to the shelter of Hercules Bay, where Hondius was able to anchor. We had a short zodiac cruise around the bay, viewing the spectacularly folded rocks on both sides of the bay, and up to the colony of Macaroni penguins. We watched the them porpoising through the water next to our boats, we saw some large Elephant seals lying on the beach next to a high waterfall, Snowy Sheathbills scavenging on the rocks by the shoreline, and Light Mantled Albatross soaring high against the cliffs.

With news of a storm due to arrive in the next days, Chris informed us that we would be leaving South Georgia later that evening in order to get ahead of the storm. We remained in Hercules Bay for the Barbeque, where we dressed-up warm and ate on the outside decks taking in the view before the tables were cleared and the dancing started. At 9pm we pulled up the anchor and said goodbye to South Georgia as we moved the party inside where all corners of the lounge were treated to some tuneful karaoke.

Overnight the clocks went back an hour providing everyone with a welcome extra hour in bed. Outside, the morning dawned slightly foggy, as we began making our way South West towards Elephant Island in Antarctica. The mornings lecture programme started with Annina’s informative lecture on ‘krill’ the foundation species of the Southern Ocean and this was followed later in the morning by Katja’s excellent introduction to Antarctica. Following lunch everyone took part in the mandatory IAATO biosecurity session held in the bar in preparation for our arrival in Antarctica. This went by very quickly as everybody was now very well versed in how to clean our gear, especially as we had received a 100% score in our biosecurity check from the South Georgia government officer in Grytviken.

The afternoon lecture was provided by the always entertaining Sasha and his story about ‘getting to Antarctica’.

Recaps were provided by Andi on ‘Kelp’ and Pierre gave an overview of Avian Flu following the sight of many dead Antarctic Fur Seals at Fortuna and Hercules Bay the previous day. The waves were building through the day as we approached the storm that had caused our early departure from South Georgia. By the end of the day the ship was experiencing 5.5m swells.

Happy Feet was the movie of choice following yet another delicious dinner, served in challenging sea condition by the restaurant team.

Today marked a full day at sea as we continued our journey south toward Antarctica. The Southern Ocean really showed us what it was all about with high swells picking up to 10 m with wild winds. All the outer decks were closed and most of us were hunkering down in our cabins. Even for many of the staff and crew this was one of the roughest days they had ever experienced at sea. For those of us feeling well enough this time gave us time to process and reflect on the incredible experience we had in South Georgia, and a chance to sort through our photographs.

Due to the conditions, all lectures were cancelled throughout the day as we watched the majesty of the storm and the Hondius handling the waves. Many people commented on how well she handled the swell and although we were rocking and rolling, how stable she felt. Well done, Hondius!

One of the highlights was sailing close to a tabular iceberg, a frozen giant that loomed on the horizon like a city of ice. We all watched as the waves were breaking over the top of this enormous tabular iceberg and the immense storm was unfolding all around us. In the afternoon the Expedition Team went to check on all guests to ensure all were safe and take any room service orders if they weren’t feeling up to dinner.

Our Expedition Team delivered recap in the Observation Lounge where Jess showed us how much she likes the lichen, with a fantastic demonstration where Julian was (of course!) a rock, Ashleigh was the fungus and Sasha was the algae. Sasha kindly brought up some crisps to feed Ashleigh the fungus to show how this symbiotic relationship works. Katja told us all about Shackleton whisky and how in January 2010 conservators found five crates encased in ice under Shackleton’s 1908 Antarctic base. Three whisky crates were excavated, and one crate was flown to New Zealand to be carefully thawed in a purpose-built environment and public gallery at Canterbury Museum. Eleven bottles of the 114-year-old whisky were revealed, still sheathed in their paper and straw packaging. After delicate conservation, the then owner of Whyte & Mackay (which owns the Mackinlay brand), flew to New Zealand to see the extraordinary find. Under permit from the New Zealand Government, he transported three bottles to Scotland on his private jet for scientific analysis by Whyte & Mackay and The Scotch Whisky Research Institute and then the Shackleton Whisky was renewed!

After a delicious dinner, we were treated with popcorn in the lounge and saw the movie “Happy Feet 2”, where young penguin Erik, who is reluctant to dance, runs away from home and encounters the Mighty Sven, a tufted puffin, north and south are intertwined.

The morning after the storm brought improved visibility, and the waves and swell had dropped considerably. There was plenty of wildlife to be seen throughout the morning: many isolated Fin Whales, a group of Hourglass Dolphins, many Prions and Pintado and the occasional Light Mantled and Black Browed Albatross.

Charlotte got the morning’s lecture programme underway with her talk on the feeding techniques of whales and explained the differences between the baleen whales and the toothed whales. She explained how Fin Whales can consume huge amounts of krill with a single gulp by opening their mouths 90 degrees.

Mark then gave his talk on penguins, explaining the differences between the Antarctic penguin species. He also talked about his time working on Bird Island in South Georgia. He explained how it was possible to identify the species of penguin eaten by Skuas by poking about their excrement and looking at the undigested penguin tongues.

As visibility improved and the waves dropped further after lunch, Marcelo talked further about Shakleton’s incredible story of survival, and following ice cream, Chris gave his talk about ice and his time working on a research station where he would navigate the crevasses on the surrounding Ross ice shelf.

After dinner we celebrated our 100% biosecurity pass rate with a free drink from the bar and many of us stayed-up late playing card games until midnight so that we could view Point Wild on Elephant Island with the ship’s bright searchlights. Gabi pointed out the beach where 22 of Shakleton’s crew were stranded for four and a half months and the bust of Captain Luis Pardo the Chilean captain who was eventually able to rescue them.

After a late night spent marvelling at the spectacular and historic Elephant Island, we were all grateful for a restful morning aboard the ship. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before gathering for an insightful lecture from Rose, who shared her expertise on geology in Antarctica. Following that, Katja took the floor to talk about the fascinating topic of overwintering in Antarctica. It was a perfect way to begin the day, with both talks sparking curiosity and excitement about the environment around us.

By the time lunch had rolled around, we were more than ready for another wholesome meal, but there was something extra to look forward to: after three days at sea, we were finally heading to land! We set off to Penguin Island, a 1.6-kilometer-wide volcanic island nestled in the South of The South Shetland islands. The island's rugged terrain was nothing short of breathtaking, and we could hardly wait to set foot on its shores.

We landed in two groups, and after a brief briefing, we started our walk around the entire crater. The island was teeming with Chinstrap Penguins, waddling along the beach, seemingly perplexed by our presence. Their curious stares made us feel like intruders on their home, and we couldn’t help, but laugh at how bold they were in observing us. Along the beach, we passed by the main colony of penguins, with their adorable antics and constant chatter filling the air. We could also see some Antarctic fur seals and Southern elephant seals that were moulting on the beach. The beach was scattered with huge ancient whale bones with interesting lichen species growing on them.

After a few hours of exploring, we felt a deep sense of satisfaction from stretching our legs and soaking in the sunshine. It was just what we needed after days at sea. We returned to the ship, where a delicious dinner awaited us, giving us the chance to reflect on the day's adventure.

But the fun didn’t end there. That evening, the South Georgia auction kicked off, with Sasha and Gabi taking the reins as auctioneers. There were 24 items up for bid, ranging from Endurance Whiskey and a hip flask to a beautiful chart drawn by Gabi and a lovely fish print scarf, elegantly modelled by Jess. The bidding was lively, with everyone eager to contribute to the cause, and in the end, we managed to raise a fantastic sum of £4500 for the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

Today we experienced the real Antarctica. When we arrived in the morning on D’Hainaut Island in Mikkelsen Harbour it was snowing in big white flakes. A welcome committee of several gentoo penguins was at the landing site. Through deep snow we walked a circuitry route on the small, less than one square kilometre large island. Several gentoo penguin rockeries were dotted on the rocky outcrops. We could see the grey and downy chicks under the bellies of their parents. A Weddell seal was dozing in the snow close to the Argentine refuge Hut called Caillet Bois. Some years ago, Marcelo had spent a week in this hut, and he was happy to share his stories about this time with us.

As the wind picked up during the morning we walked back to the landing site deeply buried into the hoods of our jackets. However, some hardy and brave souls threw themselves into the icy water from the landing beach. They claimed that the polar plunge was refreshing and a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Through their chattering teeth these words were hard to understand.

While one group was ashore, others went on a short Zodiac cruise. The glacier walls with their icefalls opposite from the landing site were spectacular. We moseyed around the island, drove with the Zodiacs into the brash ice filled bay at the refuge hut and tried to snap photos of porpoising penguins on their way back to the colony. But the Antarctic cold drove us back to the ship where hot drinks and a nice lunch waited for us.

Right after the meal several humpback whales where sighted and the bridge team turned the ship so that we could watch them a bit longer. Under enthusiastic ‘Uuhs’ and ‘Aahs’ the whales showed their backs and even occasionally their flukes. Very timely was Piere’s lecture on whales that followed our real-life experience.

An early recap and dinner saw us ready to head out again just after 6pm. This was the most anticipated landing. After many small islands that we set food on, at Meusnier Point we finally stepped on the Antarctic continent itself. Meusnier Point lies in Charlotte Bay, 7 km southeast from Portal Point (where we could ‘t land due to ice blocking the landing site). When we got ashore, we had a nice, marked circuit that we could walk. The ice cliffs behind the landing site were impressive. After an hour on land, we took to the Zodiacs. Weddel seals, crab eater seals and humpback whales were spotted as well as the elusive snow petrel. Some zodiacs even saw big patches of krill just under the surface. Fantastically shaped icebergs and the continuous falling snow were a constant companion. Slowly the day light faded and when we came back to the ship at half past nine the lights on Hondius were already on. After an interesting and cold outing some visited the bar for some well-earned internal warmth.

Our day began early, with a spectacular wake-up call: the navigation of the Lemaire Channel. Emerging from our cabins before breakfast, we were treated to the serene beauty of this iconic Antarctic passage. Towering peaks framed the narrow waterway, their icy faces reflected perfectly in the still, glassy sea. As the ship silently glided through the channel bathed in soft morning light, we felt as though we had stepped into a dreamscape.

After breakfast, we made our way to Port Charcot, a haven of history and wildlife. Onshore, a lively colony of gentoo and Adélie penguins welcomed us, many busy tending to their adorable, downy chicks. Watching these industrious birds waddle about and interact was both heartwarming and entertaining. Nearby, we spotted a leopard seal reclining on an ice floe, its sleek, muscular form commanding attention.

Around Port Charcot, we embarked on a zodiac cruise that brought us even closer to the region’s remarkable wildlife. Gliding past icebergs and shimmering floes, we encountered leopard, Weddell, and crabeater seals. Each species had its unique charm—leopard seals exuded power, crabeaters lounged in small groups, and Weddell seals appeared almost serene, occasionally glancing up as we drifted by.

A visit to the historic magnetic hut, built during Jean-Baptiste Charcot’s 1904 French Antarctic expedition, added a profound sense of history to the morning. Standing before the timeworn structure, we imagined the lives of the early explorers who endured unimaginable conditions to advance human knowledge in this remote, icy wilderness.

In the afternoon, we shifted gears with a zodiac cruise at Cape Tuxen, where the waters came alive with the spectacular presence of humpback whales. Their exhalations punctuated the stillness, and we were thrilled by their close approaches and the sight of their graceful tail flukes. At one moment, a curious whale came so near to our zodiac that we could feel the spray of its breath—a humbling, exhilarating encounter we will never forget.

As the golden light of evening spread across the icy expanse, we reflected on a day filled with unparalleled beauty, wildlife, and history. From navigating the breathtaking Lemaire Channel to the rich experiences at Port Charcot and Cape Tuxen, Antarctica had once again left us in awe.

We had another earlier wake up today, but…this time it was different. It wasn’t penguins or albatross, petrels or seals, nor whales or spectacular landscapes, which was the reason to jump from our beds quickly and go to the bow.

A very old tradition was about to be part of our lives forever. Hondius was firmly sailing, heading south, further South than is usually possible on these trips. We were going to cross the Antarctic Circle.

There are many important, invisible yet meaningful, lines slicing through the earth. A mysterious line separates the world in two different places. One for the regular people that we used to be and, the second, only preserved for those that want to take risk.

To all the civilizations that lived close to the Mediterranean Sea, the world ended above the Hercules’ Columns, which is known as Gibraltar Strait today. Nobody knew what you could find “crossing that line”. Dragons spitting fire from their mouths, giant sea serpents capable of coiling around the ship until it sinks, a spheric world resting on the back of Atlas, or a flat planet over a turtle.

Then, to be sure that a new sailor was prepared to face those challenges, the “old salty sea dogs”, more experienced seafarers, who had already navigated those dangerous places, used to perform an initiation rite to test their character, courage, temperance and respect for the other crew members.

Any sailor who did not successfully pass this test would be disembarked at the first opportunity to prevent his weakness from harming the rest of the crew. Neptune or Poseidon was and still is the Lord of the Seas to whom total respect was due. His trident is deadly.

Several years later, other lines joined this tradition, the equator line and the polars circles, and we were crossing one of them. Well done! You did it!

But the day was just starting! In Crystal Sound we had an unforgettable zodiac cruise where a pod of orcas surprised anyone. And also we had time to land on an old piece of sea ice, feeling the wind strength over us. The zodiac explored deep into the sound, soaking up sights of icebergs, elegant snow petrels, and of course for a lucky few, the spectacular killer whales. By the time the zodiacs were back at the ship, which was hiding behind a huge tabular iceberg from the strong winds, we had almost run out of fuel.

We then crossed back over the circle. In the afternoon Chris told us about his time living at Scott Base, the New Zealand Antarctic Research Station, in the Ross Sea.

As George Clooney would say: “What else?”

The sun poured into Laperyrere Bay as we awoke to a brilliant morning, the sky clear and the air crisp. It was the kind of day that promised adventure, and we were eager to make the most of it. After a hearty breakfast that fueled our anticipation, we boarded the zodiacs just after 0900, ready for a full morning of exploration.

As we cruised out from the ship, we immediately spotted them—Humpback Whales. They were "logging," a term for when these majestic creatures rest at the surface of the water, floating peacefully like logs. It was a rare and serene sight to witness these great whales in such a relaxed state.

Our journey took us through brash ice, small chunks of ice that had broken off from glaciers, creating a labyrinth of frozen obstacles in the bay. There, on the ice floes, we saw Crabeater Seals and Leopard Seals, both lounging lazily. Every turn of the zodiac seemed to reveal more whales emerging from the depths, their massive tails breaking the surface in slow, graceful arcs.

The morning wasn’t without its challenges, though. As we ventured further out, the wind picked up, sending waves splashing over the side of the zodiacs. We huddled close, gripping the sides as the cold spray hit our faces. Yet, as quickly as the wind had arrived, it faded away, and the sun came out in full force. We felt its warmth on our skin, a welcome contrast to the cold of the sea. It was as if we were lizards basking in the sun’s energy, soaking in the rare moments of warmth in the Antarctic wilderness.

By 1330, it was time to return to the ship. We were hungry, tired, and content, our spirits high from the morning’s encounters. After a much-needed lunch, we took tactical naps, knowing we’d need our energy for the rest of the day.

Later, Jess gave a lecture that added yet another layer to our experience. She spoke passionately about the importance of whales in the ocean ecosystem, explaining how their poop acts as a natural fertiliser and how their existence helps sequester carbon, making them vital players in the fight against climate change. It was a fascinating and eye-opening talk that made us appreciate these incredible creatures even more.

As the day ended, we gathered for a delicious dinner and settled in to watch the film Surf’s Up, a lighthearted way to unwind. Popcorn in hand, we laughed, relaxed and enjoyed this comical movie.

Today marked the beginning of our journey across the Drake Passage. The seas were calm, with only a gentle breeze, which meant we didn't have many sea birds following us. It felt almost surreal, with the quiet stretch of ocean ahead of us, the only sound the occasional lapping of the water against the hull.

After a late breakfast, Gabi invited us to a talk about Sir Francis Drake. It was an enriching experience to learn about his legendary voyages and his role in the exploration of these waters. Her storytelling brought the history to life, and it made us reflect on the brave adventurers who crossed these very seas centuries ago.

The wind died down even further, and the sea was smooth. It was the famous Drake Lake, living up to its reputation. After the storm we weathered during the crossing from South Georgia to Antarctica, we felt we truly deserved this moment of calm. The peaceful waters were a welcome relief.

A few times throughout the day, our expedition team called us outside to witness the majestic wildlife we encountered along the way—whales or albatross paying us a visit.

Later in the morning, Annina took us on a fascinating journey into the world of plankton. We marvelled at these not always microscopic creatures, whose life cycles are as intricate as the ecosystems they support. It was a humbling reminder of the interconnectedness of life, no matter how small or big.

After lunch, we enjoyed a peaceful break, some retreating to the lounge, others taking in the fresh air on the outer decks or relaxing in the comfort of our cabins. The quiet moments were much appreciated after the intensity of the previous days.

In the afternoon, we gathered for Katja’s lecture on climate change. Her insights on the environment and the challenges facing our planet were both thought-provoking and sobering. It's impossible not to reflect on the vastness of the ocean surrounding us and how delicate it all is.

As the day passed, we all revelled in the smooth sea and the gentle sun. Some of us even managed to sunbathe on the upper decks, feeling the warmth on our skin—a rare treat in this part of the world.

Eventually, it was time to prepare the dinner. This evening, it was our turn to add a personal touch to the meal, and we were tasked with decorating cupcakes for dessert. A fun and creative way to during the day.

Another unforgettable day in the Antarctic waters, filled with moments of tranquillity and discovery. We're grateful for the beauty and peace that surrounds us.

We woke up this morning with mixed feelings, excited for one more full day on board Hondius, but sad that it would be our last. The sea was incredibley silky and smooth.

Pierre began the lecture program by talking about Threats to Cetaceans. It was a good time to start thinking about the conservation issues that marine mammals face, the animals we had been enjoying so much on the trip. We could start thinking about changes we could make in our own lives and ways to help cetaceans when we got home.

Marcelo gave a lecture about the famous Gerlache expedition. We had spent some time sailing through the Gerlache Straight, named after the explorer Adrien de Gerlache.

Before lunch we had one final unexpected treat. We were going to sail past Cape Horn. This is the very Southern tip of South America, infamous amongst seafarers for rough seas that have claimed many lives of sailors. There was once a tradition amongst sailors that once you had sailed around Cape Horn, you could get a tattoo of a ship. Perhaps we could all get one back in Ushuaia.

In the afternoon the Captain gave a talk about Polar navigation. Charlotte then gave an indepth lecture about the breeding habits of whales. Many of the birdwatchers among us spent the day outside soaking up the lat chance to see some of the birds of the Southern ocean.

In the evening we were invited to the lounge for cocktails and to toast the end of a wonderful journey and experience. We said a thanks to all the departments of the ship who work hard to deliver memorable and educational experiences on the Hondius. We were then in for a real treat, as we settled down to watch a slideshow of our voyage that Sasha had been working tirelessly on throughout the trip. Looking back on the incredibly varied experiences we had really made us thankful for this privileged opportunity to visit these remote locations.

We enjoyed a final dinner all together and got to meet some of the staff that work behind the scenes from different departments. We had our last drinks in the bar, making the most of our remaining time with our new friends before heading for our last sleep on Hondius.

Chris woke us up for the final time and having packed up our bags, we made our way to the restaurant. While we had our final breakfast the expedition team took our luggage down to the pier. We said goodbye to the crew and staff and the new friends we had made and set off. Some of us were heading home and some were moving on to their next travels. Entering the city of Ushuaia was surreal having been in such remote and wild locations for the last nineteen days. We really got to experience the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and Antarctica in all manner of weathers, and the wild inhabitants of these special places, seals, penguins, whales, and albatrosses, and the mountains and oceans surrounding them, really stole our hearts.