HDS28-25, trip log, Falkland Islands - South Georgia - Antarctica

Our adventure started in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world that is nestled between towering mountains and the infamous Beagle Channel. Having travelled from all over the world, we eagerly boarded Hondius, our state-of-the-art expedition ship and new home for the next ten days.

Welcoming us onboard was the expedition and hotel teams that guided us to our cabins and helped us get acquainted with our new surroundings, this was followed by our mandatory safety briefing which was held in the lounge, accompanied with a lifejacket demonstration and lifeboat introduction.

As Hondius slowly moved off the berth, it pirouetted in a South East direction and started to sail along the 150 mile / 240 km Beagle Channel. During this time, we once again gathered in the lounge for our Captain’s welcome onboard introduction, accompanied with a customary toast to our forthcoming adventure.

We were then introduced to Pippa, our Expedition Leader and her team of expedition guides who informed us of their specialties, subjects of interest / knowledge and their collective love for the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the Antarctic region.

We ended the day with a buffet dinner in the restaurant and a beautiful evening outside on the bow and open decks. As we continued to sail towards the open ocean we were greeted by our first glimpses of albatross and petrels. A perfect start to our expedition – our Antarctic dream was finally a reality.

A day at sea ahead of us until we reach the Falkland Islands/las Malvinas!

This morning we were awakened by the wakeup call from our Expedition leader Pippa at 07:15. As the sea was quite calm and most of us were happy and healthy and not tortured by seasickness, we enjoyed the breakfast buffet.

Shortly afterwards we were all called to join Pippa at the observation lounge for the mandatory IAATO and Zodiac Briefing. We learned a lot about where we are going, what kind of rules we should follow and how to behave in this special and pristine environment. We also learned a lot about safety and how to enter and leave the Zodiacs in the best way, and got excited about practicing the “Sailors Grip”.

At 11:00 with a little delay it was time again to learn something new! expedition guide Lucia gave her interesting lecture about Penguins which was interrupted by our first sighting of marine mammals! We watched a couple of Hourglass Dolphins swimming and very actively jumping in the water right next to our vessel Hondius. A very exciting welcome which we all very much enjoyed. At 12:00 we were called by decks down to the Zodiac boarding area where we collected our muckboots.

Just half an hour later it was lunchtime and afterwards at 13:45 the fun continued with Biosecurity! Again we were called by decks down to Deck 3 where the expedition team waited for us, armed with brushes, paperclips and vacuums to help clean and prepare our gear, - waterproof layers, hats, gloves, backpacks and boots, - so that we would be ready to go out to explore the Falklands on the next day. Meanwhile our dive group got the briefing for their first diving adventure.

Some of us spent the afternoon on the outer decks as the sun came out to spot some wildlife, seabirds like Black browed Albatross, Southern Giant Petrels and Shearwaters. Others were using the time to read and learn or just to chat with a new friend.

We also found this time to be a good opportunity to talk and chat to some of the expedition guides and ask some questions about the following days, the program, favorite places and etc.

At 16:30 it was then time for another lecture given by expedition guide Matt called an Introduction to expedition photography. Now we were even more excited to finally get there and make our first visit to this remote place.

At 18:15 we all met in the observation lounge for our daily Recap. We learned what the plan for our first day in the Falkland Islands was, where we would go and what we could expect to see. And, of course what the weather, more exactly the wind, would be like.

Tomorrow we will be going to New Island, and for many of us a long-awaited dream will come true! Our expedition starts!

Following a bumpy night, the day began with Hondius anchoring in the shelter of New Island, a small island off the west coast of West Falkland. Following breakfast, we boarded the zodiacs for the first time for the short crossing to the beach near the settlement. The sea was quite choppy as we travelled against the strong wind blowing from the shore, and some of us were treated to views of Peale’s Dolphins close by as we come into shore.

New Island is a nature reserve that is recovering its native vegetation following the removal of sheep in recent years and is home to two million pairs of burrowing Prions, nearly 30000 pairs of Black-Browed Albatross, 13000 pairs of Rockhopper Penguins as well as many Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins, Imperial Shags, Kelp and Upland Geese and many more species of bird life. Once at the beach we could see the wreck of the former minesweeper and sealing ship, the Protector III, and we looked around the small museum.

We walked across the grassy island to a spectacular clifftop site hosting a colony of Albatross, Rockhopper Penguins and Shags, which all seemed to live happily living alongside each other. Large Albatross chicks sat on their pedestal nests waiting patiently for their parents to return with a fish supper. Scruffy Rockhopper chicks were almost ready to leave, waiting for the last of their down feathers to grow out. Shags were constantly swooping by, whilst nearby Caracara watched ready to take an opportune meal. We watched in awe of this spectacle, quickly filling up our camera and phone memory cards.

After returning to the ship for lunch, Hondius made the short transit further round the island to North Harbour, where we had another walk across the island. We visited Albatross Bay, a beautiful white sandy beach where many Gentoo Penguins were gathered. We watched Peale’s Dolphins surfing the waves and spotted some Sea Lions in the sea nearby. We also made a walk to a high clifftop viewpoint with another Albatross and rockhopper colony. Here we could see the Rockhopper Penguins riding the crashing waves and rapidly climbing a well-worn path up the cliffs to the colony.

At the evening recap, Pippa talked about the next day’s location, Stanley. Lucia talked about the smallest crested penguin, the Rockhopper, and Andi gave some facts about the Peale’s Dolphins that most of us saw today.

During the night, Hondius headed east along the north shore of the Falkland Islands. Pippa’s wake up call reached all those still in bed just on time to get up and on deck when the ship sailed towards the narrow entrance of Stanley Harbour. A truly spectacular view.

Soon after breakfast a constant stream of zodiacs left the shell door shuttling us through some splashy waves to the pier where several officials awaited us to check our key cards. It didn’t take long and we were free to explore the small town of about 2500 inhabitants, which accounts for almost 75% of all people living on the Islands. Port Stanley was established in the 1840s. The buildings and various items such as the red phone booths and houses gave a distinct English feel to the place. Alone, in pairs and small groups we walked along the waterfront. Well aware of passing jeeps, for most of us driving on the “wrong” side, we made sure to stay on the narrow sidewalks. Not far from the pier most of us had to stop at southernmost Anglican Christ Church Cathedral with the dominant Whalebone Arch in front. It was built in 1933 using the lower mandibles of two blue whales killed 10 years before. The arch is one of many remnants found in town witnessing the historical whaling activities in close and far waters.

Most time was surely spent at the small yet fascinating Stanley museum. Filled with countless relicts from the past it helped us to imagine the challenging lifestyle of people working hard as farmers, mariners or military employees. A special interest was also given to the building of the Stanley Newspaper exhibiting various printing machines and typewriters from times long gone. Today, the Islanders are mostly employed by the government and the tourism industry. The latter targets small and large expedition and cruise ships sometimes flooding the small town with hundreds of short-time visitors. On the way back we passed the post office, where countless postcards for the loved ones at home were dropped, the police station, the local supply store and tourist shops. Some ended up in the local gin distillery.

Time rolled on fast. After a short zodiac ride we found ourselves back on board where the doors to the restaurant were already open. However, some of us resisted for a while to head straight for the rich buffet. Instead we stood on deck while the anchor was lifted. When Hondius sailed through the narrows our next leg of the voyage started heading towards South Georgia. Much to the delight a group of Peale’s dolphins accompanied us for a short moment jumping in the wake.

After a relaxing break Ross introduced us to the seabirds of the Southern ocean. He invited us to come out on deck during the two coming days to observe these magnificent birds of the Southern Ocean. Later in the afternoon Michael gave us some insights into his very personal experiences during the Falkland war in 1982.

A unique day came to an end sailing through the open ocean leaving civilisation behind us. Some of us might have wondered how the sailors must have felt back in the days heading south into the unknown.

It was one of the two sea days between the Falkland Islands and South Georgia, and it unfolded as a calm, beautiful day on the sea under a sunny sky.

At 9 a.m., we watched an insightful documentary about South Georgia, which provided us with valuable information about the biosecurity measures in place to protect the fragile ecosystem of the island. Then, at 11 a.m., Andy gave an engaging lecture on the whales of the Southern Ocean, adding a fascinating layer to our understanding of the region's marine life.

As noon approached, we entered a new time zone, and the clocks were set to move forward. In the afternoon, we conducted a thorough Biosecurity Check to ensure that no contaminants were introduced to the pristine environment of South Georgia. We carefully inspected everyone’s cleaned outerwear, backpacks, muck boots, tripods, walking sticks, and even zodiac lifejackets, ensuring everything was in compliance.

In between lectures and briefings, we enjoyed some downtime on the outer decks, eating freshly baked cookies, basking in the sun and taking in the rhythmic motion of the waves. We spent the day admiring the graceful sea birds, including albatrosses, as they glided effortlessly and engaged in dynamic soaring across the vast expanse.

At 5 p.m., Julian invited us to a fascinating lecture about the geology of South Georgia. Not long after, we were fortunate enough to spot whale blows in the distance. Our ship changed course to get a closer look, and we were thrilled to see a Southern Right Whale near the ship.

During the evening recap, Pippa discussed the Antarctic Convergence, while Charlotte gave us more detailed information about the Southern Right Whale we had just observed. Marco then shared insights on the dynamic soaring techniques of albatrosses. After a delicious dinner, our photography guides, Matt and Juan, hosted a workshop to further enhance our skills and capture the stunning environment around us.

On our second day crossing the Scotia Sea, we awoke to find MV Hondius shrouded in mist. The visibility was much lower compared to the previous day, and the humidity hung heavily in the air. During the night, we had crossed the Antarctic Convergence (ACC), entering more biologically productive waters. The air temperature had dropped to meet the dew point, creating the mist that lingered around the ship throughout the day.

A full schedule of lectures awaited us. After breakfast, Marco kicked things off with a fascinating introduction to the cryosphere of the Southern Ocean. His presentation covered the formation of glacial ice, the dynamics of glaciers, and an extensive discussion on Antarctic sea ice and its movement.

After a short break to enjoy a cup of coffee or tea, Pippa took the stage with a detailed presentation on pinnipeds. She covered both the eared seals and true seals we had already encountered at the start of the voyage, as well as those we could expect to see in South Georgia and along the Antarctic Peninsula. The anticipation for seeing Antarctic Fur Seals and Elephant Seals the next day was building.

Meanwhile, some of us spent time on the outer decks, especially around the bow and stern of the ship, where we had the chance to observe various sea birds, particularly those from the Procellariformes order. These included Albatrosses, Petrels, Prions, and Fulmars, known for their low-energy flight technique, "dynamic soaring." It was a rewarding experience for both birdwatchers and photographers, watching these medium to small-sized birds glide gracefully past the ship.

Lunch in the restaurant was, as always, a delicious affair, thanks to chef Bawa and his talented team. After a brief break for a power nap, we returned to the lounge for George’s engaging lecture on South Georgia’s geopolitical significance in the Southern Hemisphere. His presentation sparked numerous questions and went on for over an hour and a half, with the crowd fully engaged.

At 16:30, it was Michael’s turn to share the incredible story of Ernest Shackleton and his crew, stranded in the Weddell Sea’s sea ice for months before they managed to escape and seek refuge on Elephant Island. Their eventual rescue by the Chilean Navy marked the end of their ordeal.

As the day wound down and we neared the island, still enveloped in mist, Pippa briefed us on the plans for the next day. Excitement grew as we prepared for our first landing among King Penguins and Fur Seals in South Georgia. After a hearty dinner, we settled in to watch Endurance Found with popcorn, bringing Shackleton’s story to life on the screen.

It was a quiet yet enriching day at sea, filled with fascinating lectures and a growing sense of anticipation for the adventures awaiting us in South Georgia.

We woke up to the breathtaking sight of South Georgia, its rugged mountains glimmering in the distance, bathed in the soft morning light. Our excitement was palpable as we prepared to disembark and see our first King Penguin colony. As we approached the shore, the weather reminded us that we were in the sub-Antarctic—gusts of wind and sudden downpours soaking us through, as if to welcome us to this wild, remote place. Half of us zodiac cruised through the kelp while watching King Penguins and Fur Seals on the shore while the other half went on land to visit the colony. Wow what a sight to behold. Unfortunately the swell picked up and we had to be evacuated. While we were frustrated, we understood the situation, we knew our adventure was far from over.

In the afternoon, we landed at Stromness, the historic whaling station which lasted from 1912-1931 killing thousands of Whales. A lot of the buildings were still left over for the wildlife to make their home. We did a split landing, and the scenery was absolutely spectacular. Fur Seals played along the shore, their playful antics filling the air with laughter, while the mighty Elephant Seals lay nearby, moulting in the chilly, damp air. The sheer number of seals and their peaceful presence was awe-inspiring.

We hiked to the famous waterfalls, the very place where Shackleton made his final descent towards the whaling station, desperate for rescue after his ill-fated expedition. Standing in the same place where history had unfolded, we felt a deep sense of reverence for his journey.

Though we were soaked from the rain, our spirits were undampened. The day had already given us more than we could have hoped for. As we made our way back to the ship, we couldn’t stop talking about what we had seen. After a recap of the day’s adventures, we gathered for a well-deserved dinner, our minds still buzzing with the beauty and history of the places we’d visited.

Today, we began our adventure with a stunning view of Grytviken, the historic old whaling station that once played a significant role in the South Georgia whaling industry. Founded in the early 20th century, Grytviken became the hub of a thriving whaling operation, which ultimately led to the near-extinction of whale populations in the region. The site holds a rich and somber history, with the abandoned buildings and equipment standing as silent witnesses to the past. We made our way ashore to explore the site, walking through the weathered buildings and immersing ourselves in the rich history of the settlement.

The cemetery, where Sir Ernest Shackleton, the legendary explorer, is buried is of a particular significance. His grave serves as a poignant reminder of his incredible leadership and the challenges of Antarctic exploration. We stood in front of the grave of the legendary explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton, and we got the chance to reflected on Shackleton’s remarkable legacy and toast for the chief, with a solemn atmosphere of the resting place.

A guided tour offered an in-depth look at the whaling station’s operations and the surrounding area. The small settlement, though quiet now, once bustled with activity, and the tour brought its past to life with fascinating stories of the people who lived and worked there. It was a day full of history, exploration, and reflection, as we connected with the past and gained a deeper understanding of this remarkable part of the world.

After returning to the ship for a nutritious lunch, we set off towards a picturesque bay known as Godthul. Surrounded by cascading waterfalls and teeming with wildlife, the bay was a perfect spot for exploration. The plan was to make a landing and walk towards a small gentoo penguin colony, but the path was blocked by a group of resting elephant seals. Unfazed by the obstacle, the team embraced the spirit of adventure—after all, we are on an expedition!

Instead of giving up, we switched plans and opted for a zodiac cruise around the bay. The waters were calm and the weather was perfect, providing an ideal setting to enjoy the stunning scenery. We encountered a wide array of wildlife, including fur seals, elephant seals, king penguins, gentoo penguins, giant petrels, and blue-eyed shags. The highlight of the cruise was the sight of the lush kelp forests, which created a magical atmosphere as we cruised through the bay, soaking in the beauty of the landscape.

The adventure didn’t end there—after the cruise, we made a brief landing to walk among the adorable fur seal pups. The little seals were playful and curious, adding an extra layer of charm to an already incredible day. With calm seas, sunshine, and wildlife all around, it was a truly memorable experience.

After a thrilling day of exploration, we returned to the ship just in time for the daily recap with the expedition team. During the recap, everyone eagerly listened to the highlights of the day and learned about the exciting plans for tomorrow’s adventure. The expedition team’s enthusiasm and expertise added to the anticipation for the next leg of the journey.

Following the recap, we enjoyed a delicious dinner in the restaurant, savoring a well-earned meal after such an eventful day. With full stomachs and satisfied hearts, we retired for the evening, ready to rest and rejuvenate before another day of discovery and exploration. The adventure was far from over, and we can’t wait to see what tomorrow would bring.

During the night the officers and crew on duty had sailed our floating home southwards along the coast. The sea was quite calm offering all of us a good night sleep. At 5 o’clock the early risers enjoyed an incredible sunrise painting the magnificent mountain range of South Georgia into various colours from yellow to deep red. From then on the increasing light unfolded a most amazing landscape while the ship slowly sailed into a beautiful little bay to drop anchor for our morning activity. Those standing on deck discovered numerous macaroni and gentoo penguins swimming close and far in the green coloured water surface.

Soon after breakfast we all boarded the zodiacs to explore Hercules Bay and its inhabitants. During a 30-minute landing we could only walk along the small beach passing hundreds of whale bones bleached from the sunlight and age. Behind the first row of tussock grass lied a dozen sleeping elephant seals side by side. Once in a while they raised their heads to look at us with their huge black eyes. Exactly lying on the only path leading up the 70 m high slope we had to cancel the original plan to climb up to the penguin colonies.

All the more we enjoyed the extra long Zodiac cruise as there was plenty to see and discover. We admired the golden stems and leaves of giant kelp floating at the surface, groups of penguins and some South Georgia terns diving into the water surface to feed. We even discovered giant petrels feeding on a elephant seal carcass. After a while the feeders stopped and walked down to the waterline to wash their bloody heads in the water. They gave space to other individuals who were nearby waiting for their turn. This was surely an unusual event of nature to observe.

Back on board we went for lunch while the Hondius sailed to St Andrews Bay, our next destination further south. We were very lucky as little wind and low swell allowed us to go on land. Too often this is not possible due to the beach fully exposed to the open sea. Shuttled to the landing site we were greeted by king penguins, playful fur seal pups and mid-sized elephant seals. While the pups were very playful and bluffing, a few larger seals were more serious signalling their need for space. Right away we slowed down our pace and walked around the seal in a respectful distance allowing the animal to calm down. After a short hike through the most unique landscape we climbed a little hill where a breathtaking view over the estimated 150’000 breeding pairs of king penguins were spreading below us. Not counting the many brown chicks. In the background the steep rocky summits of 2000 m high mountains reached into the sky. Separated by the Clark, Buxton and Healey glaciers. Or the fractions of them.

From here we could oversee the whole bay where Hondius anchored in the distance. With our binoculars we could follow seven tiny zodiacs cruising along the shore enjoying the landscape and wildlife from the waterline’s perspective. They even came across the first leopard seal of our voyage sleeping on the black rocky cliffs. It was one of about 100 mostly juvenile individuals living on South Georgia. Below it were countless stems of giant kelp attached to the rocks floating in the swell like golden hairs.

Finally it was time to leave the overwhelming beauty to go back on board where a tasty barbecue was awaiting us. Dressed in warm layers we sat on wooden benches kindly set up by the crew. Later on the tables and benches were removed to make space for a dance floor. Only minutes later guests and guides started to move, spin and even jump to the music. Half an hour later the party had to continue in the observation lounge as the outside lights had to be turned of to reduce bird strikes.

As we had to get up very early the next day most guests headed to bed to catch enough sleep for our last day in South Georgia. A few however gathered in the lecture room to watch the super bowl broadcasted live. At about 54° 26’ South and 36° 11’W.

At the break of dawn, the day began with the promise of something extraordinary. The early morning was still and quiet. The reason for the early wake-up was simple: Gold Harbour, a hidden gem of South Georgia, awaited at sunrise. And as the sun slowly rose above the horizon, it painted the sky with vibrant shades of orange and gold, casting a breathtaking glow across the bay.

The Blue Group was the first to step ashore and the Red Group embarked on a zodiac cruise, gliding over the still waters. The moment they set foot on land, the scene was nothing short of magical. Before them, 25,000 breeding pairs of King Penguins gathered in a bustling, cacophonous colony. The penguins’ black-and-white forms dotted the landscape, moving in a synchronized rhythm, their calls echoing around us. Nearby, a smaller colony of Gentoo Penguins waddled along, while around 100 Elephant Seals dotted lounged lazily on the beach, with a few enormous males asserting their dominance in the mix.

The sight was otherworldly. The beach itself was a hive of activity, with penguins emerging from the surf and waddling back toward their nests, and others making the opposite journey, their path lined with the delicate footprints they left behind in the sand. The scene was alive with the sounds of the wild, from the chatter of the penguins to the deep, guttural calls of the seals.

As the sun crept higher, the colors of the landscape shifted. The warm orange haze that had graced the sky now enveloped the bay, painting everything with a soft, golden light. The Zodiac cruises that had set off into the waters captured the scene from another perspective.The sea itself seemed to glow with oranges and yellows, reflecting the warm light as Fur Seals darted in and out of the waves, their sleek bodies twisting through the water in playful joy.

By 07:30, everyone made their way back to the ship for a hearty breakfast, fueling up for the next phase of the morning’s adventure. The groups swapped roles; the Red Group went ashore as the Blue Group set off on a zodiac cruise. The sun continued to shine, and the clouds parted, revealing the full splendor of Gold Harbour. The immense glacier descended from the mountains above, its icy blue hues contrasting against the rugged cliffs that towered above the beach. The light from the sun illuminated everything below, turning the landscape into a living painting, the kind that would forever be etched in their minds as they witnessed the natural world in its purest, most untouched form.

After returning to the ship for a well-deserved lunch, it was time to set off for Cooper Bay, where the adventure continued. The group embarked on a full-ship zodiac cruise, heading to the rocky outcroppings that were home to a Macaroni Penguin colony. These quirky penguins, with their bright yellow crests, greeted the visitors with their usual antics—jumping in and out of the water, their calls piercing the air as they scolded one another for getting too close. It was a fun and lighthearted moment.

The seals were just as entertaining. They swam gracefully around the kelp forests, darting through the water with astonishing speed and agility. At times, they playfully chased each other along the rocks, their sleek bodies cutting through the water like missiles. The sight was mesmerizing, a reminder of the vibrant life that thrived here in this remote corner of the world.

As the clock struck 16:30, it was time to return to the ship, but the day was far from over. Sailing past Cooper Sound, the ship passed enormous icebergs that were grounded in the shallows. Their massive, pristine forms loomed like silent giants, a reminder of the untamed beauty of the region.

During the evening recap, Lucia, the Penguin Expert, shared her knowledge about the Macaroni Penguins. Charlotte followed with a fascinating talk about the surfactant in seals, humorously dubbed “whale snot,” that helps them thrive as they dive deep to find their favourite prey; squid. By then, the group was exhausted but deeply content, their hearts full from the day’s experiences. They gathered for dinner, then retreated to their cabins for an early night, still in awe of the untamed beauty they had witnessed in this extraordinary place

With the clocks moving back an hour overnight and following an exhausting but exhilarating four days in South Georgia, we were all looking forward to a lie-in. Instead, we were awakened by Pippa shortly after 7am announcing that the iceberg A23a was in sight, earlier than expected!

A23a is currently the largest iceberg in the world. It broke away from the Filchner-Ronne ice shelf in 1986 and got grounded shortly after. In 2020 it broke free again and was carried by currents to its present position close to South Georgia.

Many of us gathered out on the bow to marvel at the sheer scale of the iceberg, and the huge arches that had been formed by the crashing waves exploiting cracks in the iceberg’s edge. We passed along the edge of the iceberg for a couple of hours before we were all called out onto the bow for a photo of all the guests and staff. A short while later we noticed a Zodiac on the water, battling the wind and spray. Are we going on a Zodiac cruise? Surely not! It was a couple of guides and Andrew the photographer out trying to take pictures of Hondius and the iceberg! Just as the guides in the Zodiac were collecting a piece of the iceberg for our evening cocktails, a large section of ice calved off producing some large waves and making the Zodiac run away.

After lunch, Pierre gave a lecture on humpback whales, telling us about how he worked in Mozambique taking and studying biopsies to determine whether the whales are visiting different feeding grounds.

With ice-cream being served just before Julian’s talk on icebergs, there was a good turn-out. He talked about how both Arctic and Antarctic icebergs are born and how they drift in the oceans and also described the life of the A23a iceberg that we had seen earlier in the day.

At the evening recap, Will showed some historical maps of Antarctica and Marco described the wind patterns around the Antarctic continent.

The day begins with a hearty breakfast in the dining room. The view outside the windows is breathtaking—seabirds soaring above, and the soft glow of the Antarctic morning light reflecting off the water. The dining room is buzzing with excitement as fellow expedition members discuss the day ahead.

After breakfast, we gather in the lounge where Marco delivers an insightful lecture on the physical environment of the Antarctic Peninsula. He explains the region’s geology, climate, and ice formations, emphasizing the effects of climate change on the fragile ecosystem.

Later in the morning Will takes us on a journey through history, recounting the incredible story of Tom Crean, the Irish explorer who played a crucial role in Antarctic expeditions alongside Scott and Shackleton. His survival stories, acts of bravery, and resilience leave us in awe, painting a vivid picture of the early days of polar exploration.

Lunch is served in the dining room, providing a welcome break.

In preparation for land excursions, we undergo the last mandatory biosecurity check in the lounge. One by one, our decks are called, and we bring our pre-cleaned outerwear and backpacks to be inspected, ensuring we don’t introduce any non-native species to this pristine environment. The process is thorough but necessary to preserve Antarctica’s delicate ecosystem.

Charlotte’s lecture on cetacean breeding is a fascinating dive into the world of Antarctic whales. She explains mating behaviours, migration patterns, and the challenges whales face in a rapidly changing climate. Stunning underwater footage and expert insights make for an engaging session, leaving us eager to spot whales during our voyage.

As the day winds down, the Expedition Team hosts the daily recap in the lounge. Highlights of the day are discussed, and plans for tomorrow’s activities are revealed. There’s an air of anticipation as we hear about potential shore landings and wildlife sightings.

Dinner is a time to relax and reflect on the day’s experiences. The dining room is filled with laughter and lively discussions, with many sharing their thoughts on the lectures and the plans for the next day: Elephant Island.

The closer we get to the forever frozen continent the colder it gets. On this morning, we can feel the air and its pure freshness, filling our lungs with anticipation and the wonders ahead. For the past two days our minds have been fixed on today. We are heading to Elephant island where the conditions seem to offer a one in a lifetime opportunity to set foot on this desolate piece of land, home to Shackleton’s 22 companions, forced to spend a gruesome winter, four full months, waiting in anguish for their leader to return with help.

Around ten we sighted Elephant island as we gazed upon its unhospitable shoreline, forever snowy tops, alone, adrift, in this merciless southern ocean.

As we arrived and anchored in the bay, looking at its threatening glacier towering over us remind us of our fragile nature, we planned to get out for an exciting day. The expedition team made their way out to check the shore and find a suitable landing spot for us to land. They succeeded and shortly after we disembarked for a short Zodiac cruise around the tip of the bay to see penguins and a leopard seal and geological wonders.

It was time soon after to make history, for us as for most of the staff this would be the first time they set foot on Elephant island, a one in a hundred chance! As we finally walked on to the beach, we could feel the eerie sensation of being left is a place where no one would ever find you. A place so desolate and unhospitable one is anxious to get back on the Zodiacs and back to the comfort of the ship.

Back on board a healthy lunch awaited us, and a series of lectures took place during the afternoon. Pippa talked about the history of whaling in the southern Atlantic and George about the tense and awkward geopolitical situation of Antarctica.

We were not done with surprises for the day as during dinner we witnessed a large pod of Orca chasing down a small group of three fin whales, relentlessly harassing them, trying to get at the calf, smaller of the three.

After dinner we gathered in the lounge for a drink and the South Georgia Heritage Trust auction where we all participated in donations for a good cause. Around 1500 pounds were raised for the baby seals! Among others..

We woke up to stunning views of Antarctica. From our windows, we were treated to beautiful blue icebergs, and at times, we spotted penguins or seals resting on the floating ice. As we sailed closer to Paulet Island, we marveled at its dramatic lava flows and the cinder cone with its small summit crater. Paulet Island is also historically significant. In 1903, during the Swedish Antarctic Expedition led by Otto Nordenskiöld, the ship Antarctic was tragically crushed and sunk by ice off the island’s coast. The island is known as an important bird area, home to a large breeding colony of Adélie penguins.

As our ship cruised through the waters around Paulet Island, we navigated a sea filled with massive amounts of floating ice, rapidly moved by powerful currents. Throughout the journey, we were in awe of the exceptional navigation skills of our bridge team, expertly maneuvering the ship around towering icebergs in the Weddell Sea.

With the thick sea ice around us, we took advantage of a unique opportunity to land on it! Our Captain skillfully positioned the ship close to the sea ice, and we launched the Zodiacs. Some of us went on a zodiac cruise, observing curious Adélie penguins and even a humpback whale that appeared surprisingly close to our zodiacs. Others ventured onto the sea ice itself, where we had a blast with snowball fights, made snow angels, and reveled in the surreal feeling of standing hundreds of meters above the ocean below. As the strong currents pushed the ice closer to our landing spot, we headed back to the ship.

While we enjoyed a delicious lunch, the ship repositioned, and afterward, we did a second ice landing with the other half of our guests. The views of the vast, white landscapes were breathtaking, and once again, we stood on floating ice, feeling the magic of this remote, frozen world.

In the afternoon, we were treated to stunning views of the endless white landscape from the bow and from the bridge of Hondius as we cruised through the Weddell Sea. As the temperature dropped with our journey further south, we were served hot chocolate with rum to keep us warm. The scene was peaceful, but nature had more surprises for us—once again, we were lucky to witness orcas, this time hunting for an Adélie penguin. It was a thrilling sight to see these magnificent creatures in action.

During the recap, we learned more facts about orcas we had seen over the past two days, as well as the birds of Antarctica, like the Giant Petrels, and Adélie penguins. It was a great opportunity to deepen our understanding of the incredible wildlife in this pristine region.

Later in the evening, the galley team went all out for a special Valentine's dinner, preparing an amazing dinner and surprising us with a large variety of delicious heart-shaped desserts. The dining room was beautifully decorated, creating a warm and festive atmosphere, making the evening feel even more special and adding to the unforgettable experience of our Antarctic adventure.

The day began with a soft knock on our doors and the voice of our expedition leader, Pippa, waking us at 7:45 AM. As we stretched off the last remnants of sleep, excitement buzzed through the ship—another day of Antarctic adventure awaited.

Our morning expedition took us on a full Zodiac cruise through the breathtaking Cierva Cove. The water, a mirror of icy blues, was dotted with floating sea ice. We wove our way between towering glaciers, their sheer walls radiating an eerie, otherworldly glow. The air was crisp, almost still, apart from the occasional crack of ice breaking and the rhythmic hum of our engines. As we glided through this frozen realm, nature granted us a spectacular show. A minke whale surfaced nearby, its sleek body cutting effortlessly through the frigid waters. Not long after, we spotted the familiar arching backs of humpback whales, their massive tails disappearing into the deep. Leopard seals lounged lazily on ice floes, while crabeater seals peered at us curiously, their wide eyes catching the dim Antarctic light.

The afternoon brought another highlight: a landing at Palaver Point. Stepping onto solid ground after a morning on the water felt exhilarating. At the Chinstrap penguin colony, we were greeted by a cacophony of squawks as these charismatic birds waddled about, their feathers a little bit filthy from the melting muddy grounds, yet they remained entirely unbothered by our presence. We hiked up a snow-covered mountain, each step sinking slightly into the fresh powder. At the summit, we were rewarded with a stunning panoramic view—vast expanses of ice, rugged peaks, and the endless Southern Ocean stretching beyond the horizon.

Just when we thought the day couldn't get any better, the water around us came alive. As we cruised back in our Zodiacs, a pod of humpback whales emerged, their curiosity matching our own. They surfaced near our boats, spouting mist into the air, their immense forms gliding effortlessly beneath us. For a few magical moments, we were surrounded, caught in their world, feeling a connection that words could hardly capture.

That evening, back on the ship, we gathered for our daily recap. Pippa shared our plans for tomorrow, her voice filled with the same enthusiasm that had fueled us all day. Over a delicious buffet dinner, we reminisced about the encounters, the landscapes, the sheer wonder of Antarctica. As the ship gently rocked, we knew this was a day we would never forget.

Our second day on the West Antarctic Peninsula started at the beautiful Neko Harbour, a small stop located within Andvord Bay of the Gerlache Straight. The incredibly photogenic natural harbour, surrounded by towering mountains and glaciers was discovered by the explorer Adrien de Gerlache during his 1897-1899 Antarctic expedition and was named after a Scottish whaling vessel. Visiting Neko Harbour was also a significant milestone for our expedition as it was our first and only landing on the Antarctic continent.

As half of us stepped foot on the Antarctic continent for the first time, we were greeted by hundreds of gentoo penguins as they made their daily commute along their ‘highways’ to and from their rookery. A short hill climb provided stunning views of the nearby glaciers reflecting off the glassy sea, a chance to have a photo with the iconic Antarctic flag or simply a chance to take in the never-ending natural beauty Antarctica has to offer. Whilst half of the group were on land, others were treated to another magnificent zodiac cruise in search of the whales, seals, birds and the giant icebergs that frequent the waters of the Peninsula. Continuing our luck from the day before, this was also a very rewarding and memorable cruise for all as many humpback whales, minke whales, crabeater seals and snow petrels were observed amongst the icy waters.

After lunch we all participated in a Zodiac cruise within the appropriately named Paradise Bay. Located a short distance from Neko Harbour, Paradise Bay is renowned for its stunning scenery and plentiful wildlife; it is also the location of the Argentinian research base, Almirante Base Brown. Continuing our good fortune from the morning, the wind was light, sea mirror calm and the bay was full of wildlife. We were all rewarded with stunning views of feeding humpback whales, travelling minke whales and sleeping seals on icebergs. To warm our afternoon, we were also treated to a hot drink served by our Captain and the hotel team amongst the brash ice before we head back out to explore the splendors of Paradise Bay once again.

As we finished our Zodiac cruise, we once again attended and listened to Pippa’s recap on our plans for the next day and we slowly sailed in a Northerly direction along the Antarctic Peninsula towards our next destination, Deception Island.

Pippa’s wake-up call came early—6:45 AM—to take in the extraordinary view from the caldera entrance of Deception Island. We had now reached the South Shetland Islands, still within Antarctica, yet the atmosphere and scenery had noticeably changed.

Navigating into the caldera was a precise operation, as the entrance is both shallow and narrow. On the starboard side, we admired the towering basaltic cliffs guarding the entrance to Neptune’s Bellows. Once inside, the remains of the ancient Hektor whaling station came into view, standing as a silent testament to the island’s past.

After an 8:00 AM breakfast, we disembarked onto the black sandy beach of Whaler’s Bay, a strikingly different and almost lunar landscape. We were standing in the very center of a 100,000-year-old volcano.

Deception Island is one of Antarctica’s most active volcanoes, having undergone multiple eruptions over the past century, the most recent between 1968 and 1970. It lies within the Bransfield Basin, where tectonic extension over the last four million years—at a rate of 10mm per year—has led to the formation of the Bransfield Strait and associated volcanism. Most of this volcanic activity occurs below sea level, but three volcanic centers rise above the waves: Deception Island, Penguin Island, and Bridgeman Island. These islands form the youngest landmasses of the South Shetland archipelago.

As we continued exploring, we came upon the remains of the old whaling station, the large hangar once used by Hubert Wilkins for his pioneering flight over the Antarctic Peninsula, and the steamy shoreline of Whaler’s Bay. Well-practiced from our previous landings, we swiftly set foot on shore and began our hike to Neptune’s Window. From this vantage point, with the blessing of incredible weather, we enjoyed sweeping views of the caldera and the open sea beyond, where a few humpback whales could be seen. It was heartening to witness these majestic creatures returning to waters that had once been the site of relentless hunting—now protected under the Antarctic Treaty since 1959.

Some of us took a Zodiac ride beyond Neptune’s Bellows into the open waters of the Bransfield Strait, venturing over to Bailey Head, where we observed a vast colony of chinstrap penguins. On our return, we were once again treated to the sight of humpback whales feeding along the island’s southern coastline.

The afternoon brought the much-anticipated polar plunge. The MV Hondius repositioned north into Pendulum Cove, a site marked by the tragic history of the Chilean research station Aguirre Pedro Cerda, which was buried under debris and ash during the 1967 eruption. The station’s personnel had to trek to the British station at Whaler’s Bay, from where they were eventually evacuated by helicopter.

The dramatic landscape provided the perfect setting for our plunge into the frigid Antarctic waters. With the tide receding and geothermal activity heating certain areas, some brave souls took the plunge, experiencing the extreme cold before retreating to naturally warmed pools along the shore. Afterward, a warm shower back on the ship was a welcome relief.

As the day wound down, we bid farewell to the Seventh Continent, once again navigating through the narrow strait we had entered in the morning. Our journey now led us northward, across Boyd Strait and into the formidable Drake Passage. That evening, we gathered for a briefing with Pippa and the expedition team, learning about the plans for the following day. With a toast at the bar, we celebrated this unforgettable voyage through one of the most remote and breathtaking places on Earth.

We are on our way back to Ushuaia!

As we heard at the Recap yesterday there is a storm or as Pippa likes to call it a big purple monster ahead of us. Captain Hans and his team on the bridge is doing a great job trying to outrun these 9m waves so we can all stay safe and healthy. With 14knots we are sailing through the Drake Passage.

The morning started without a wakeup call so everybody could sleep in a little bit as sleep is very much needed after this fantastic and very active days in antarctica. After breakfast it was time for those who joined the Photo competition to meet with expedition guides Juan and Lucia to give them our pictures and hope to win in one or more of the three categories which were wildlife, landscapes and comedy.

At 10:00 the Dive team leader Michael and his team gave a lecture called underwater Antarctica, about their job here in the south and showed some stunning photos of their discoveries on this voyage. Shortly afterwards expedition guide Will gave an interesting presentation about Rolad Amundsen, a Polar Proffessional in the lecture room.

It was time for lunch then and as our Captain does a great job keeping us away from the monster we all enjoyed the delicious food.

To keep us busy the expedition team asked us after lunch to Deck 3 where they collected our muckboots, red bags and rental gear. We just had time to get a cup of tea or coffee until the next lecture started. This time Pippa talked about Whaling in Antarctica which was eye opening for many of us. Exactly as interesting as Piers presentation about the International Whaling Comission which followed at 16:30. We have learned so much on this trip and it definetley changed some of us.

At 18:15 it was time for our daily Recap. We heard about the plans for tomorrow, our last day at sea.

After another delicious dinner we all met at the observation lounge for the final decision of the Photo competition. Great fun!!!!

But for some of us the day wasn’t over yet! Expedition guide Will gave his fantastic concert, which was part of the South Georgia Heritage Trust Auction, in the library. What a great way to enjoy this “almost-last evening” on board our beloved Hondius!

Our efforts to outrun the storm seemed to be sufficient to not get thrown around as we were fast approaching the safety of the shores of Argentina. However the storm was faster than us and around 8 am as we were woken up by an exceptional wake up call from one of our dear passengers, started building up strength and unleashed all its might on our portside. For the better part of the morning waves pounded Hondius and tested her ability to cut through the giant waves punching through us.

Before lunch as we rounded the southernmost tip of the Beagle channel Hondius found shelter and the waves and the wind reduced in energy. Behind us were building giant waves of over 15 meters and would’ve tested us to an uncomfortable level.

Two lectures took place in morning for those of us who felt fit enough to assist, Ross gave us an insight into the environmental aspect of our voyage. Later Marco talked about “The Big Blue Machine” where he explained the importance of the polar thermocline circulation of our oceans.

Lunch was served as we begin our cruise into the Famed Beagle channel first sailed through by Fitzroy in 1831. Our last lunch on board and as always, so tasty we cannot resist a second serving.

In the afternoon George talked about the future history of antarctica, deepening our understanding of what is at play in the Southern Ocean and especially the role of the Antarctic treaty system.

In the evening time came for the official goodbyes to the staff and Captain. Glasses were raised and tears poured as Matt showed us the slideshow he had been working on since day one, remember that? So long ago..

The final dinner was served by chef Bawa and we got to thank the entire crew of Hondius or their welcome and dedication throughout our voyage.

The expedition staff gathered at the bar for a last moment together were we enjoyed talking of all the adventures we have gone through

We heard Pippa’s soft Scottish accent for the final time time for the wakeup call. We put our suitcases outside the cabin at 07:30 then made our way to the fabulous buffet breakfast to fill up one more time. What a fantastic trip it has been, far beyond expectations, it was a bitter sweet moment leaving the ship, but we hope to be back one day for another expedition. We said our final goodbyes to the staff and off we went into the big wide world, ready to fend for ourselves.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 3,531 nautical miles

Southernmost position: 64°85.5’S, 062°92.9’W (Paradise Harbour)

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Hans Soderholm, Expedition Leader Pippa, Hotel Manager Ingrid and all the crew and staff of M/V Hondius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.