Fecha: |
04.09.2024 |
Posición: |
71°08.8’N / 025°34.9’E |
Clima: |
Cloudy |
Temperatura del Aire: |
+8 |
Overnight, we had continued out transit up through the majestic Øfjord (island fjord), so the early birds found the ship approaching the namesake archipelago at the eastern end of the fjord. A few of us had stirred in the night as strong winds had rattled the ship, this fjord is infamous for funneling katabatic winds off the ice sheet, and the Greenlandic word for the fjord, Ikaasakajik, means ‘the bad sound’ and refers to the frequent strong winds here.
Early in the morning, we had some glorious views of the far side of the fjord, and the stunning mountains of Renland, up to 2000 meters high, and all lit by the soft pink light of the sunrise. However, quite soon, these were hidden as thick banks of fog rolled in from the main body of Scoresby Sund, and our destination for the morning, Bjørneøer, or ‘Bear Islands’, disappeared into a dense wall of white. Ali and the Expedition Team were on the bridge, to scout, and to assess conditions. After a while, it was clear that the fog was going to stay, and a landing in low visibility would not be safe. Instead, Ali announced a cunning plan B; a Zodiac cruise among the islands and icebergs.
Shortly after this was shared, we found ourselves at water level, and venturing out into the fog. Our expedition guides took us through the island chain, finding the areas where the fog was thinnest. With the superb light, the icebergs were beautiful; frigid, towering castles of ice. A few of the boats explored the east coast of Milne Land and found a beautiful little bay, complete with a rippled sand beach, and some fiery autumn tundra, all set against the backdrop of Grundtvigskirken, the 1970 meter peak towering over the entire area. After several magic hours, it was time to get back on board, to sift through our photos, and to feast on another sumptuous lunch.
During lunch, Plancius headed out through across the head of Hall Bredning and towards our destination for the afternoon; Sydkap. This area is a large slope of rich tundra, all set in the crook of a large sweeping bay. The long hikers set off into the hills, aiming for the nearby mountain peak, the medium and medium photo groups went exploring around the large ponds, and found that the ground underfoot was so rich, that it was quite hard going; a little like walking across an endless feather mattress. The weather turned slightly inclement, a gentle rain set in, and the wind picked up from the west. This encouraged a few of the groups back towards the landing site a little earlier than might otherwise have been the case. However, it was a glorious afternoon to roam through the vibrant Arctic tundra in all its autumn glory.
As we approached the ship in the Zodiacs, we could hear music drifting off the back deck, accompanied by the unmistakable smell of meat cooking on charcoal – a sure sign that we were in for a treat: an Arctic barbecue! We gathered outside on Deck 3, dressed up warmly, and we tucked into delicious, chargrilled food. In the meantime, Plancius was cruising out and into Hall Bredning, the so-called iceberg graveyard of Scoresby Sund. As the sun went down, the music got louder, and the beverages flowed more freely. Before long the back deck had been converted to a dance floor, but every once in a while, a dancer would break off and stare out to the horizon, admiring the vivid blues, purples, and reds of the setting sun. A thoroughly surreal end to another magical day exploring in the Arctic.