Fecha: |
12.01.2025 |
Posición: |
64°84.9’S / 062°92.3’W |
Viento: |
6kt |
Clima: |
Overcast |
Temperatura del Aire: |
0 |
While M/V Plancius graciously sailed into the glassy waters of Paradise Harbour accessing the bay from the west through the Bryde channel; Expedition Leader Adam had to anticipate the wake-up call. A pod of 10-15 orcas had been sighted by the attentive eyes of the bridge team.
Quickly dressed up we rushed to the outer decks to find ourselves surrounded by a stunning scenery of glaciated mountains. Right in front of the bow we recognized the huge and tall fin of the orca male, patrolling the areas in which the rest of the females and their calves were about to transit. In the distance a few humpback whales were feeding, and the atmosphere was so serene. What a great start!!
Breakfast was served while Plancius repositioned deeper into the bay. Soon we were out on the zodiacs for another incredible morning through brash ice, skirting our way near beautiful carved bergy bits and icebergs. Flukes and tidal lines were so clear on the icebergs, and the glimmering light of the day gifted us with intense turquoise tinges on some of the deeper cracks of the glaciers.
Some of us transited in front of Brown station, one of the many research facilities managed by Argentina in the peninsula region. Gentoo penguins welcomed us near the buildings while the flamboyant Argentine flag symbolize that the south American country had claimed this area even before the Antarctic Treaty was signed in 1959.
Past the station an impressive cliff with Mesozoic layers and foldings, a home for a noisy colony of Antarctic Shags was located, where parents were already taking care of their chicks. Near them some Cape Petrels nesting in the most remoted crags on the wall. Icy rivers flowing down the mainland peninsula, calving into the waters of Paradise Harbour. Weddell and crabeater seals resting on ice floes, whereas feeding humpback whales were cruising around. Some of us were lucky enough to get a close encounter with these cetaceans which at this moment of the season started to reach the productive waters that surround the peninsula for feeding.
At the end of the zodiac cruise, we were shuttled to shore for our first continental landing of the trip. Punta Vidt is a small and shallow promontory, often a place where Weddell seals haul out. For us it was also the stage of the polar plunge; welcomed with great spirit and with good numbers by most of us who decided to dip their feet and heads into the frigid waters of the seventh continent.
During lunch time M/V Plancius sailed once again through the Gerlache strait on her way to Orne Harbour. A visible landmark, Spigot peak, marked the entrance of this heart-shape embayment that opens towards the southeast of the Arctowsky Peninsula. For all of us it meant a second landing on the mainland, and a fantastic hike up to the saddle which overlooked the incredible scenery. From the top of Orne Harbour the entire central part of the Gerlache strait was visible. The views stretched as far as Anvers island towards the west and Brabant island to the Northeast. A perfect sunny day to remember, especially when a noisy rookery of Chinstrap penguins welcomed us at the top. Their chicks already more than a week old were well taken care of and fed by the hard-working parents which were able to climb to the colony from the opposite side. What a place to be born!!
Eventually the operations were wrapped up and once again we were safely shuttled back to the ship ready to listen for the plans of the next days and the recaps carried out by our fantastic expedition team.
Kayaking
12 January AM
Paradise Bay
The aptly named Paradise Bay was the venue for an amazing morning of kayaking in this beautiful bay surrounded by steep glacial mountains. From the Argentinian research base at Brown Station, we passed under steep rocky cliffs where Antarctic Shags fed hungry chicks in their remarkably constructed nests. On into Skontorp Bay, we entered a world of brash ice and growlers amid larger bergs calved from this chaotic glacier that tumbled into the ocean from steep mountain flanks.
In glassy waters we observed a feeding Humpback Whale that use bubble-net tactics to drive its krill prey to the surface. For many magical minutes, this might cetacean gently lunged and fed, dived and surfaced - all within a few short metres of our kayaks, as glacial ice towers crashed into the bay. Amazed at our good fortune, we finally tore ourselves away to continue our journey.
Our morning ended with a continental landing where we placed our feet on Antarctic ground and, for some, a celebratory polar plunge into the frigid waters of Paradise Harbour. Home to the ship, we marveled at our incredible morning of adventure.
12 January PM
Orne Harbour
Our afternoon brought yet more amazing kayaking experiences at the magnificent Orne Harbour. We launched beneath the towering cliffs of Spigot Peak, under rock ledges dotted with groups of Chinstrap Penguins. We headed deeper into the bay, arcing towards its north side through dense carpets of brash ice. We pushed deeper in, pausing in a safe area to observe the mighty glacial river, to reflect on this incredible environment, and to share some group photographs.
We continued north into a secluded bay, sheltered from the breeze and hidden from Plancius. Here in this isolated corner of the Antarctic Peninsula, we drifted alone for a few minutes, sensing the power of our dramatic and austere surroundings. A final paddle back to the ship completed an excellent day of Antarctic kayaking.