PLA28-25, trip log, Antarctica - Discovery and learning voyage

Today is the day! All guests have made the long journey to the end of the world, Ushuaia, and ready to embark on a trip of a lifetime. For some this day has been years in the making and it is time now to get underway. Guests arrived in a nice trickle, walking down the windy pier, meeting their expedition team at the gangway, and being shown to their cabins by our hotel department. The day was a tad on the windy side with moments of blue sky and sunshine, very typical for this region.

You could feel like excitement buzzing around the ship when everyone arrived. Guests spent the next hour exploring the ship, wondering the decks, unpacking their expedition gear, and getting acquainted with their home for the next ten days.

Once all passengers were onboard it was time to set sail! The wind gusts were no problem to our experienced bridge team as the mooring lines were released, we waved goodbye to Ushuaia and civilization, and excitingly exclaimed `Bon voyage`, especially with over 30 passengers onboard visiting Antarctica from France!

Before we can get fully into expedition mode, we must discuss safety. Our officers held mandatory safety briefings to ensure everyone has a great and safe trip. Once the safety briefings were completed, it was time to celebrate and cheers to a good voyage up ahead! Expedition Leader Ali introduced the plans for the trip, the expedition team, and our hotel manager provided information about life onboard. The most important person onboard was next in the spotlight, Captain, who with his many years of experience at sea welcomed all guests onboard and gave a toast to the voyage.

After all the briefings, introductions, and welcomes it was time for dinner. We headed down to the restaurant for the first time and enjoyed a delicious meal while the stunning views of the Beagle Channel slowly went past in the windows. Excitement is at its highest and we are ready to see what tomorrow has in store for us!

Today was our first full day at sea on the Drake Passage! The weather was better that we were expecting. Although some people were seasick, most guests slowly got accustomed to the waves. The morning started with the first “good morning, good morning, good morning” wake up call from our Expedition Leader Ali with French translation from Regis. After, a delicious breakfast was served between 8 and 9 AM. At 10:00 AM, Martin presented a lecture in the lounge about the seabirds that we could see on our journey across the Drake. Regis gave the simultaneous lecture in French in the restaurant for our French speaking guests.

Next up for our lectures today was Elizabeth. At 11:30 AM, she introduced us into the world of the Antarctic whales, and we learned about the different species and how to identify them. Then, the delicious lunch was served between 12.30 and 13.30 PM. Furthermore, time at sea was spent drinking tea and perhaps if you didn’t get seasick, you might even read some books from the nice collection in the library.

Szymon continued with an education lecture after lunch was over. He held his presentation about ice, icebergs and glaciers in the lounge at 15:00 PM. At the same time Laura shared her presentation in French at the restaurant. Our photography guide, Koen, introduced us to the amazing world of photography and gave us tips on how to take better photos during this voyage. During the afternoon, we had the opportunity to see the magnificent length of a Wandering Albatross, up to 3.5 meters (11.5 feet)!

The day ended with a brief recap of the day, the plans for tomorrow, and Regis explaining more about bird identification. Ali and the Expedition Staff provided an introduction about themselves, their backgrounds, and why they love this polar region.

Afterwards, a plated dinner was served in the dining room. Now, the first day at sea on the Drake Passage has been completed; one more, and then we’re finally ready for our first day of exploration!

We have just completed our second night onboard and woke up to find out we have made good progress in the Drake. Our vessel Plancius is making good speed with some tail wind helping our journey south. After breakfast, the expedition team planned a busier day for guests onboard in preparation for our arrival to the Antarctic tomorrow. First up, all passengers attended an important mandatory briefing on the rules put in place by IAATO. This is done to avoid, or at least limit, possible impact of our arrival on the white continent. Antarctica is a special place and protection of the pristine environment is incredibly important. We start in the morning with biosecurity, to ensure that we disembark the ship and not bring other organisms or invasive species from our homes into Antarctica. Invasive species can cause a serious problem and therefore all gear going ashore gets cleaned, vacuumed, and meticulous checked by staff before our first disembarkation.

After a delicious and varied buffet lunch, a couple of lectures were given by our expedition guides, who are happy to share knowledge of their chosen fields. Ali presented an introduction to the penguin species we could see on our voyage. Martin then takes over to show us what we can learn about birds ringing and their behaviours.

Our next step in preparing to explore Antarctica the following day is receiving our muck boots. The boots were distributed to us and will keep us warm and dry while on shore or in the zodiac. Next up, Ali explained to all guests about the ship operations and everything you need to know about safely embarking and disembarking on the zodiac.

Land Ahoy! Our first sign of land appeared in the distance in the early evening. We could see Snow and Smith Islands; also accompanied with sightings of penguins and whales. The excitement was still at a high as all guests met in the restaurant for a dinner and eagerly awaited tomorrow; our first expedition day!

First wake-up call in Antarctica! Ali woke us up with an announcement at 7:15AM, informing all that weather was looking good for our first day. Forecast was a little cloudy, and the temperature outside, although cool, was pleasant as we had no wind, at most a light breeze.

We transited to Danco Island through the night and after a good breakfast, we dressed warmly and followed the instructions explained the day before. Equipped with lifejackets, we boarded the zodiacs for a short transfer to Danco Island. When we arrived on the beach, we discovered a whole new world of ice. Large chunks of ice littered the beach, and we could already see a few penguins nearby. Once Ali had given us our instructions, we were able to disembark from the zodiacs and we were so excited to set foot on land!

We followed the route marked by poles, set out by our expedition staff, to get close to three colonies of Gentoo penguins. The island was covered in snow, and we had to zigzag our way to the top. On the way, we had to be careful to give way to the penguins travelling on the highways as they use the paths already marked out in the snow to save energy. We were amazed at the distance they can travel to their nests, back and forth to the sea to eat and feed their young. We loved watching the parents feed the young by regurgitating krill. The view from the top was also extremely impressive and some even spotted orca whales swimming in the bay! All in all, it was a magnificent sight.

In the early afternoon, after a short sail aboard Plancius, we set off again in the zodiacs to disembark on Cuverville Island. This time we split the group in two and while some disembarked on the island, the second group took a zodiac tour to get closer to the icebergs. The weather had changed, heavy snowflakes were falling, and the surrounding peaks were now covered with a fresh blanket of snow. The colours of the ice enchanted us. White, but also turquoise blue and little pools in the cavities of the icebergs almost tempted us to go for a swim. Humpback whales swam peacefully in the bay, and we were able to see them diving.

Sailing between the small icebergs, we spotted Weddell seals resting on the ice or on the rocks, while a few curious Antarctic terns flew overhead.

After this zodiac cruise, we disembarked on the island, where the snow had stopped. Here, as well, we were able to get close to the two colonies of Gentoo penguins. A new species for the trip also; as a fur seal was sleeping on the beach.

After a busy afternoon, we joined Ali and the expedition team in the lounge for a presentation on the weather and the next day's programme. Elizabeth then gave us a presentation about Penguin Watch, a citizen science project happening in Antarctica and Koen shared some tips on how to improve our photography.

A delicious dinner awaited us at 7pm. But this incredible day wasn't over yet. Feeding humpback whales had just been spotted. The Plancius slowed down and then diverted slightly to let us enjoy this exceptional spectacle. The whales were in full effervescence, creating bubbles to trap the zooplankton. What an incredible day!

KAYAK

Morning - Danco Island: First Paddle Strokes in Antarctica

In front of us, Antarctica stretches in all its splendor: towering, snow-capped mountains, massive glaciers seemingly frozen in time, and a deep blue sea dotted with enormous ice blocks. Today marks our first kayaking excursion, and excitement is at its peak.

After a safety briefing and a reminder of paddling techniques, we board the zodiacs. The air is crisp, filled with an icy humidity, but adrenaline keeps us warm. As soon as we hit the water, the first gentoo penguins appear, leaping like small torpedoes between the waves. Their silhouettes contrast sharply with the pristine white of the icebergs.

We paddle slowly, weaving between the drifting ice blocks. Each stroke takes us deeper into this surreal setting. Danco Island rises before us, massive and silent. Along its slopes, entire penguin colonies bustle, their calls echoing in the still air. Some clumsily slide down the rocks before diving effortlessly into the water, bringing a smile to our faces.

We follow the eastern coastline, captivated by seracs occasionally collapsing into the ocean with a muffled roar. The ice cracks and groans under the pressure of centuries. The farther we go, the stronger the wind becomes. As we approach the island’s southern tip, gusts start to shake the water. We decide not to push further and stay on the sheltered side.

The return is smooth, with the current carrying us along. We savor every moment—glaciers, icebergs sculpted by wind and sea, and the light dancing on the ice. It is a magical first morning, a glimpse of the polar adventure that is just beginning.

Afternoon: Circumnavigating Cuverville Island

The afternoon brings the same unshaken enthusiasm. This time, we head for Cuverville Island, a dark, imposing mass lost in the mist. The goal is ambitious: to complete a full circumnavigation by kayak.

We launch from the island’s tip. The coastline here is rugged, raw, and in places, entire colonies of gentoo penguins bustle on the slopes. Their calls break the icy silence. Small icebergs drift lazily around us, translucent like crystal. The water is mesmerizingly calm, each paddle stroke sending ripples outward in perfect circles.

We progress slowly, observing the cliffs rising before us—black, vertical, and austere. Mist clings to their faces like a ghostly veil, adding a dramatic touch to an already otherworldly scene. A few Antarctic cormorants appear, skimming the water’s surface before vanishing into the fog. To the south of the island, the landscape changes abruptly. The ice cap resting atop Cuverville seems poised to spill into the sea. Ahead of us, a massive ice wall looms, fractured by time. The silence is heavy, broken only by the deep rumble of an ice block detaching and crashing into the water in an explosion of foam. We keep our distance, awed by this raw power, before continuing our journey. The scenery becomes ever more spectacular. Icebergs grow larger, their shapes defying logic, sculpted by the elements. Between the mist, the glaciers encircling the island, and the deep blue sea, time seems to stand still. A lone seal drifts on a piece of ice, indifferent to our presence.

Finally, after completing the full circumnavigation, we return to our starting point. The zodiac awaits to take us back to the Plancius. As we leave the kayaks behind, one last glance at Cuverville reminds us of how this world is both harsh and breathtakingly beautiful.

Good morning this very early morning! Today we were passing the iconic and stunning Lemaire Channel, but it was going to be a passage before breakfast. Although Ali had told us she would only do a short wakeup call around 6 AM, she did wake us up even a little earlier. Killer whales had been spotted and as it was a clear day, the rising sun was shining with rich gold colors on the icebergs and surrounding mountains. Definitely worth getting up for.

The killer whales’ blows lit up bright in the morning sunlight and we observed them for a while before it was time to make our way through the Lemaire Channel. This stunning passage is also named Kodak Gap or Kodak Channel for the simple reason that you will not stop taking photos when you’re passing the steep and rugged mountains; the close view of thick glaciers and the icebergs left and right of the ship. It was a beautiful morning with no wind, and we all enjoyed the views of this stunning area.

During breakfast we navigated towards our first landing site for the day; Port Charcot named after the famous French explorer Jean Baptiste Charcot. Landing at Port Charcot proved a bit challenging this morning as we had a very low tide making the rocks slippery and the climb up a bit strenuous. But once we were on solid ground, we enjoyed this site tremendously. The expedition team had set up two routes, one leading to the top of the hill and another towards a Gentoo penguin colony. In this colony there’s a good chance to see two other species of penguin as well, the Adélie and Chinstrap penguin. Martin was sent up the colony with the task to find all species so we could all enjoy them, and Martin delivered! He soon called Ali to inform her that he had found both Adélies and Chinstraps, meaning three penguin species in one colony.

The hike up to the viewpoint was a bit wet and a bit muddy, but mostly it was stunning as we passed several small gatherings of penguins. Quite often, we had to stop for a little bit as penguins were crossing our paths. The views from the top were fantastic. We could see hundreds of icebergs in all kinds of forms and shapes, and we could see several humpback whales feeding close to shore. Their blows were so loud that we could clearly hear them on the top.

Time flies when you’re having a good time and unfortunately around noon, we had to make our way back to the ship. It was time for lunch and for the ship to relocate to Petermann Island, our second stop for the day. The navigation towards Petermann Island was spectacular as we had to pass large icebergs and whales could be seen around the ship regularly. Petermann Island was discovered by a German expedition 1873–74 and named by Eduard Dallmann for August Petermann, a noted German geographer and founder of Petermanns Mitteilungen.

At Petermann, the team had set out several routes that would lead us over the entire island. On the right side of the island, we would find both a Gentoo, as well as an Adélie penguin colony, and it was fantastic to spend some time there. The penguin chicks are getting quite big these days and they can often be seen chasing the parents hoping to get more food. Others could be seen taking naps on the rocks or they were socializing with other chicks.

A hike up to the other side eventually lead to yet another wonderful viewpoint. The weather was still fantastic and the sight of icebergs as far as our eyes could see was simply breathtaking. We didn’t want to leave this beautiful spot, although Ali had maximized our time ashore, it was now really time to make our way back to the ship.

Unfortunately, camping was cancelled for this evening as changing wind and weather would make camping uncomfortable and more importantly, the risk of getting iced in was too big so it was decided to postpone.

Shortly after dinner Ali announced that we would pass the Lemaire Channel again. The channel, stretching 11 kilometers (6.8 miles) in length, is framed by towering cliffs and filled with drifting icebergs. At its narrowest point, it measures just 600 meters (2,000 feet) across, creating a dramatic and unforgettable passage. Initially it looked like a big iceberg was blocking our passage through, but our amazing captain waited patiently until he saw a gap and then maneuvered the ship skillfully passed the iceberg and all the brash ice around. An amazing and spectacular navigation and a fitting end to an unforgettable day.

Goodnight, everyone!

KAYAK

Morning - Port Charcot: Between Currents and Ocean Giants

The sun shines high in the sky, casting a brilliant light over the deep blue sea. After a peaceful night and a smooth passage through the Lemaire Strait, we arrive at Port Charcot, a place steeped in history and mystery. The water is deceptively calm, disturbed only by the slow drift of icebergs and the powerful pull of tidal currents.

We launch near the landing site, our kayaks gliding across the mirror-like surface. The goal is clear: to round the point and enter the strait separating Port Charcot from a small neighboring island. Soon, we feel the current’s force beneath our hulls. The passage is cluttered with ice blocks—some small and translucent, others massive and sculpted by the elements. Water rushes through them, creating swirling eddies.

As we navigate cautiously, a powerful exhalation echoes across the water. Time stands still. We scan the horizon and soon spot the massive silhouettes of humpback whales surfacing among the icebergs. They are here, right in front of us, feeding in this channel where the current concentrates krill. Their immense dark backs break the surface, followed by their ma jestic pectoral fins. Water glistens under the spray of their dives.

All around, life is in motion. Groups of penguins swim frantically, disappearing beneath the water before surfacing farther away, caught in an instinctive dance. A predator’s shadow likely lurks nearby—a leopard seal concealed among the ice blocks, taking advantage of the underwater chaos. But the penguins keep coming back, determined, drawn by the abundance of food. We drift in quiet awe, mesmerized by this raw, wild spectacle. The current carries us toward the northern part of Port Charcot, where the coastline fractures into coves and small bays. Under the still-shining sun, we explore these secluded corners, gliding between rocks before turning back.

As we begin our return, a final gift awaits us—the whales reappear, surfacing near our kayaks. One of them breaks the surface just beside us, its deep breath resonating in the frigid air. A surreal, timeless moment.

Eventually, we reach the zodiacs, still spellbound by the encounter. Port Charcot has offered us one of those rare moments where Antarctica unveils its full power and beauty.

Afternoon: Circumnavigating Petermann Island

The Plancius drops us off on the eastern coast of Petermann Island. Under a brilliant sun, the island reveals itself in striking contrast—dark rocky outcrops interspersed with immaculate white ice fields. But what catches our attention the most is the ice. A true floating labyrinth, sculpted by the currents, spreads out before us.

We slip into our kayaks and advance cautiously, weaving between ice blocks. Some are mere translucent shards, others towering icebergs with deep blue hues. The water is crystal clear, revealing the submerged contours of these frozen giants. Sunlight dances across the ice, creating a mesmerizing spectacle.

As we progress southward, we find a narrow passage—a small strait that allows us to round the island’s southern tip. The atmosphere is magical, almost surreal. The silence is broken only by the occasional crack of shifting ice. Then, as we round the point, the landscape shifts. We emerge from this ice forest into a more open western coastline, where black cliffs rise steeply above us.

Moving northward, the ice becomes scarcer. Bathed in sunlight, this part of the island is more rugged, and, surprisingly, we spot patches of vegetation. Small tufts of moss and lichen cling to the dark rocks, offering a fragile hint of green amidst the overwhelming white. Here, the stone absorbs warmth, creating a microclimate where life stubbornly takes hold. As we round the island’s northern tip, we spot seals sprawled across drifting ice floes, indifferent to our presence. Above, petrels and Antarctic terns wheel through the sky. The island is alive, an ecosystem in constant motion.

We begin our return along the eastern coast, where icebergs reappear to block our path, forcing us to weave between them. Some shine in a dazzling white, while others glow in shades of blue so deep they seem illuminated from within. Then, in the distance, a powerful exhalation pierces the silence. A humpback whale resurfaces, gliding effortlessly beneath the surface. Just for a moment—a final gift before we head back. We float there, savoring the raw beauty of this landscape that is constantly changing before our eyes.

At last, we return to our starting point and board the zodiac. Another day where Antarctica has gifted us with a unique setting—a mesmerizing blend of ice, rock, and life.

As we begin a new day in Antarctica, the weather conditions have changed significantly. Upon waking, we find the outer decks covered in thick snow, with flakes struggling to reach the ground due to the strong winds. Despite these conditions, our expedition team organized a visit to the small British base of Port Lockroy. The island hosts a small team from the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT), who manage a museum, post office, and shop. Originally the site was established in 1946 as military surveillance station called “Base A”, during Operation Tabarin, a mission to monitor enemy activities. It is now preserved as a historic site by the UKAHT, with the main building, Bransfield House, serving as the museum and shop. After breakfast, we attended an engaging presentation by the UKAHT staff managing the site, who shared the fascinating history of Port Lockroy and the Penguin Post office, the southernmost post office in the world.

However, managing the mail isn’t the only activity at Port Lockroy. The team works for a foundation dedicated to preserving Antarctica's built heritage. Renovation and maintenance operations for various huts on the peninsula are regularly carried out thanks to donations. The few residents also monitor the population of Gentoo penguins that nest on the island.

After the presentation, we head to the base in small groups. While the British flag flies and a handful of humans occupy the site, it is the penguins who are the true inhabitants; with a thousand of them setting up their summer quarters here, occupying every corner of the island—even beneath the buildings. While some visit the small British station, others enjoy the shop set up on the Plancius in the lounge, sending postcards to loved ones back home or picking up a souvenir. A hearty, warm lunch is then enjoyed by all in the restaurant as our ship sails toward our next destination: Paradise Bay for our continental landing! During our journey, weather conditions remain tricky and the forecast continuing to be unfavorable. Yet, upon our arrival, the snow and wind subside, and conditions finally allow us to proceed with our afternoon activities. Our team springs into action to organize a dual activity.

While one group lands at Stony Point, another embarks on a zodiac excursion in the surrounding waters. The first group sets foot on the Antarctic continent for the very first time and climbs a snowy dome at Stony Point to admire a breathtaking panorama of Paradise Bay. Meanwhile, the second group observes Weddell and Leopard seals lounging on icebergs. The highlight of the outing: everyone gets to witness the graceful ballet of humpback whales. So focused on devouring as much krill as possible, these ocean giants allow us to approach quite closely.

Upon our return, Ali, our expedition leader, shares the plans for the next day and announces that tonight’s dinner will be special—a barbecue organized on the aft deck.

As one group prepares to leave the ship for a night of camping under the stars and a dance floor springs up between the tables, the weather suddenly deteriorates, prompting the decision to bring the campers back on board. This unexpected change gives everyone the chance to end a packed day together, dancing to the DJ’s music, while the blizzard blankets Paradise Bay once more.

KAYAK

Afternoon: Glacier Immersion in Paradise Bay

In the afternoon, we launch from Stony Point, at the heart of Paradise Bay—an immense, sheltered bay where silence is broken only by the distant crack of glaciers. All around us, mountains plunge into a deep blue sea, scattered with drifting ice blocks. The name fits perfectly: a sanctuary of ice and rock, cut off from the world.

We set off near a navigational marker, a relic left behind to guide sailors through this maze of white and blue. With the first paddle strokes, we find ourselves surrounded by enormous icebergs—some pure white, others streaked with almost surreal shades of blue. We keep a respectful distance, mindful of the silent power of these floating giants.

We then paddle along a massive glacial front stretching before us like a wall frozen in time. Now and then, a deep crack echoes through the air, announcing the calving of small chunks of ice. Nothing dramatic, but enough to remind us that this world is constantly shifting. Our route takes us on a seven-kilometer loop, a grand crossing through the heart of the bay. The weather is capricious—at times, mist clings to the peaks, shrouding the landscape in a ghostly atmosphere; then suddenly, a break in the clouds bathes everything in an almost unreal light. This constant contrast gives the place a dynamic, living quality, hypnotic in its beauty. As we approach the shoreline, we pass a colony of gentoo penguins. They bustle about on the rocks, some clumsily slipping before diving into the water with remarkable agility. We watch them for a while, soaking in this final scene before completing our loop.

The wind remains gentle—a light breeze adding a crisp touch to our journey without complicating navigation. As we near the landing site, the sun finally breaks through, casting a golden glow over the glaciers and icebergs. A grand setting to conclude another Antarctic exploration.

Our day began with an exhilarating landing at Orne Island, a remote and awe-inspiring location in Antarctica. As we disembarked, we were greeted by snowy conditions, with gusts of wind reaching up to 25 knots. Despite the challenging weather, the atmosphere was electric, and there was an undeniable sense of adventure in the air. The island was teeming with wildlife; we encountered a few Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins, who seemed unfazed by the harsh weather as they went about their daily routines. We also spotted several fur seals lounging along the rocky shores, their thick coats offering them some protection from the cold winds.

After a warm and hearty lunch aboard the ship, we set out on a ships cruise through the spectacular Wilhelmina Bay. The conditions had not improved much, with heavy snowfall and poor visibility surrounding us. Despite the weather, there was a certain magic to the moment, as we glided through the bay, zig zagging through the ice. As if to reward our perseverance, we were treated to the sight of humpback whales in the distance. While the visibility wasn't ideal, we were still able to catch glimpses of their majestic flukes and blow spouts.

In the afternoon, we took a zodiac cruise to Enterprise Island, known for its historical whaling time. We passed the remains of an old whaling ship called "Governoren" and explored the icy shoreline. The wildlife was active, with seals on the rocks and few species of birds feeding in these rich waters of Antarctica. The icy landscape was striking, with towering glaciers and jagged peaks lining the shores in the distance. After all the zodiac cruisers were back onboard and the kayakers had finished their paddling, the ship weighed anchor and started to head north towards the South Shetland Islands, our spot for tomorrow’s expeditions!

KAYAK

Afternoon: First Paddle Strokes at Foyn Harbor

Today, it is the first kayaking experience for those on the waiting list. Excitement fills the air, but the weather is toying with us. The wind picks up as we prepare our gear, making navigation more technical. Julien, our guide, wisely decides to split the group into two for safety. We board the zodiac and head for a sheltered spot to launch. Foyn Harbor is a place steeped in history, marked by the remnants of the old whaling industry. Today, it is kayaks, not whaling ships, that glide across these waters.

First Group: A Gentle Introduction

With the first team of six kayakers, we stick close to the coastline, where we are shielded from the wind. Conditions remain somewhat choppy, but here, under the cliffs 'protection, the water is calmer. From the first strokes, wonder is palpable. Before us, a majestic glacier dominates the horizon, its bluish walls sculpted by time. We move slowly, allowing everyone to find their rhythm. The beginners quickly adapt, mesmerized by the proximity of the icebergs and the overwhelming silence of this frozen world. We cover 3.5 kilometers—a route designed to offer a smooth and safe experience. Then, with the wind easing slightly, we return to swap groups.

Second Group: A Changing Landscape

As we set out with the second team, the sky clears. A brilliant blue replaces the gray canopy, transforming the landscape. The icebergs, already stunning under diffused light, now reveal their full spectrum of blues—from translucent turquoise to deep cobalt. Following the same route along the coast, we remain sheltered from the wind. Here, the shoreline is more rugged, dotted with jagged rocks we must carefully navigate. The interplay of light on the ice and terrain adds an almost surreal dimension to the journey. This time, we push a bit further, covering 4.5 kilometres. The water remains turbulent in spots, but the cliffs’ shelter allows for steady, enjoyable progress. After a final glance at the glacier standing guard over the bay, we board the zodiac and return safely to the Plancius.

A First Adventure to Remember

For these beginner kayakers, this outing was an unforgettable introduction—a technically challenging yet controlled journey, a landscape of ever-changing ice, and that unique Antarctic light that, at times, makes it feel like paddling through another world.

Ali woke us up this morning, to another new sight, as we approached Livingston Island in the South Shetlands. We had sailed through the night from the Antarctic Peninsula and arrived to a pleasant temperature, evidence of a north heading. It was hard to tell from the deck of the boat what was in store for us, but we were quickly grinning from ear to ear when we arrived at the beach. We disembarked at Elephant Point on a beach of black volcanic sand and rock. At first glance, it seemed a little gloomy, but the site was nonetheless teeming with life. Hundreds of Gentoo penguin chicks formed rambunctious groups along the beach. Other more imposing occupants shared the space, male elephant seals. Some lounged in small groups on the beach, and some had even gathered higher up on an embankment. Their wide tracks could be seen in the vegetation as their large bodies compress anything underneath them.

Young male elephant seals have an increasingly prominent nasal appendage as they grow older. A few large territorial males weighing several tonnes could be seen battling it out in the water. At other times, particularly in spring during the breeding season, the males compete to gain access to females and form their harem of several dozen partners. Although they are very agile in the water, they don't seem to be very well adapted to the terrestrial environment. Nonetheless, it is impressive to observe their ability to move very quickly in a crawling motion. Between the rocks, a male fur seal was resting, occasionally poking his head out to take a peek at us. At the end of the route, we had a view of the glacier on Livingston Island and a beach littered with penguins. Some Brazilian scientists had set up camp for the summer season and they came to meet us to exchange greetings. After saying goodbye to the young Gentoo penguins, we re-embarked for lunch and the sailed to Deception Island.

This island of Deception Island is unique in that it is one of only three offshore calderas in the world. Created by volcanic activity several thousand years ago, the island was originally a conical volcano that collapsed at its center during a violent eruption to form the caldera that is now navigable. Entering the caldera through Neptune's bellows is impressive, as the seabed at this point forces the ship to approach the cliffs. A small colony of chinstrap penguins was stationed on the slopes of the volcano.

Once inside, we could see the remains of the buildings of an old whaling station in the distance, as well as fumaroles formed by the resurgence of hot water. The last eruption was in 1969. At that time, the scientific bases located in the caldera had to be evacuated in a hurry. Three Argentinian and Chilean bases are still regularly occupied for scientific activities.

We then disembarked for our last Antarctic activity in Telefon Bay at the bottom of the crater. It was more like being on the moon than in Antarctica, and the sight surprised many of us. The ground is black, made up of cooled lava and scories; nothing like what we had seen on our trip so far. We climbed up onto the rim of a small secondary crater to take in the fantastic view. The fresh snow that had fallen the day before contrasted with the black rocks of the volcano.

A beautiful and astonishing last stage in our journey to Antarctica. To round off this adventure, the bravest among us were able to jump into the water at 1°C for a polar bath! The hardest part was undoubtedly getting dressed once we'd cooled off. We were soon back in the Plancius for a hot shower before the evening recap.

Ali gave us a presentation on the sea conditions over the next few days, as we were about to start crossing the Drake Passage that very evening. We also had a presentation on the elephant seals we had seen in the morning, followed by some advice on taking photos, and finally some information on hypothermia.

It was a busy day, full of contrasting landscapes, and plenty of excitement on our last day in Antarctica.

KAYAK

Morning: An Unforgettable Encounter at Elephant Point

Low-hanging clouds shroud the sky, casting a mysterious aura over this rugged volcanic landscape. Here, dark cliffs contrast starkly with a massive glacier that plunges into the sea, creating an almost Icelandic atmosphere. Elephant Point is aptly named—on the beach, large elephant seals lie in scattered groups, their massive forms visible from afar. But before we can even focus on them, an unexpected visitor makes its presence known.

A leopard seal circles our zodiac, curious and elusive. We wait for it to move away before launching our kayaks, but the moment we hit the water, it returns. Julien, our guide, immediately gives the instructions: we form a raft, bringing all kayaks side by side to ensure stability and minimize the chances of an overly close encounter. The leopard seal glides around us, disappears beneath the surface, then resurfaces just a few meters ahead, its piercing eyes locking onto us. Time stretches. Some paddlers grip their kayaks a little tighter, hearts pounding. Julien remains calm, reassuring us, explaining that we are in an ideal position to observe this fascinating predator without risk. Finally, Brian, handling safety from the zodiac, deploys a well-practiced trick—creating bubbles with the engine, drawing the seal’s curiosity away from us. Slowly, it moves off, resuming its exploration of the area. We can now continue our journey.

Paddling Among Elephant Seals

We paddle gently toward the shore, where we can observe the elephant seals up close. The contrast is striking—these massive, sluggish giants groan and snooze on the sand, moving awkwardly, while we just encountered a sleek, agile predator. Continuing our route, we weave between rocky outcrops. The environment is raw, wild, entirely different from our previous landscapes. We carefully follow Julien’s lead to avoid zones where waves crash against the rocks and choose the safest paths through the shifting currents.

As we progress, we reach the southern coastline, where scattered islets rise from the icy waters. The atmosphere is unique, almost prehistoric, as if this place has remained unchanged for millennia.

A More Challenging Return

For the return journey, we opt for a more direct route, avoiding the intricate maze of rocks. However, this exposes us to stronger winds and ocean swell. The kayaks bob on the waves, challenging our balance and technique. This final stretch feels like a culmination of everything we havelearned. It demands concentration but also provides pure exhilaration—a dynamic, flowing paddle through the open sea. Finally, we reach the zodiacs, still processing the extraordinary morning. The encounter with the leopard seal will stay with us—a moment both intense and intimate, a glimpse into the unpredictable and untamed wildlife of Antarctica.

Afternoon: Paddling Inside a Volcano at Deception Island

In the afternoon, we set course for Deception Island, one of the most legendary sites in the South Shetlands. Here, the earth still smolders in places, a reminder of the volcanic activity that has shaped this eerie landscape. The island, with its massive caldera, feels like another world—a sea-filled crater enclosed by dark cliffs, a stark and almost lunar setting. We launch from Telephone Bay, in the northern part of the caldera. The water is calm at first, but soon, the wind picks up. Instead of fighting it, we decide to use it to our advantage—paddling with the wind at our backs, letting the icy air push us in the right direction.

Gliding Through a Volcanic Landscape

The contrast is striking. Gone are the towering glaciers; instead, we paddle along rugged, mineral-rich slopes tinted black and ochre. The island’s sheer cliffs plunge directly into the sea, giving us the surreal sensation of navigating through a forgotten world, where fire once ruled instead of ice.

Propelled by the wind, we reach a small, sheltered lagoon. Here, the water is perfectly still, protected from the gusts. The silence is profound, broken only by the occasional cries of seabirds circling above. We pause to take in this hidden sanctuary, an improbable oasis within the volcanic crater. But outside, the wind continues to strengthen, stirring up the waves. The idea of paddling back against it quickly becomes unrealistic.

We make the safe choice: regrouping and returning to the Plancius by zodiac. As we board, we meet the rest of the group, who are preparing for an entirely different challenge—the Polar Plunge. Some of us, still buzzing from the paddle, decide to join. The thought of diving into Antarctic waters, inside an active volcano, is irresistible. The moment we hit the freezing water, a shockwave runs through our bodies, every nerve alive. It lasts only seconds, but the exhilaration lingers.

As we leave Deception Island behind, we know that this final kayaking experience has been unlike any other; navigating through an active volcano, embracing the elements, and finishing with a plunge into the frigid sea. A fitting end to our intense Antarctic exploration.

Today is our first full sea day on the Drake Passage and heading to Ushuaia after an unforgettable trip in Antarctica. During the night we already started to experience the first waves of the Drake passage. There was no wake-up call this morning so we got to sleep in a little bit get a good rest. In the morning, we were well welcomed by the sun. It is a wonderful day, and the Drake Passage is more restless than we have experienced before. Most have already developed good sailor legs, but unfortunately this is not for everyone.

After a well-organized breakfast, Elizabeth gave a nice lecture about orcas and the various ecotypes around the world. At 11 am Szymon gave an interesting lecture about climate change and afterwards we enjoyed a delicious lunch.

After Lunch, Valeria gave a lecture about the Race to the North Pole. At 4.30 pm Laura gave a lecture about Geology and Koen ended his photography workshop with the lecture about Work your magic. As every day, Ali the expedition leader told the planning and the weather forecast for tomorrow. And the weather looks good, the wind will get lower, so the drake passage will be smoother. Afterwards we were able to sit down to a plated dinner in the dining room. And continue our journey back to Ushuaia.

For the last day at sea, Ali woke us up at 7:45 to inform us that we had made good progress through the Drake Passage and were approaching the entrance to the Beagle Channel. Although the boat was still rocking, we had gotten used to the motion, and the boat felt livelier than the day before. We were ready to begin the day.

After a nice breakfast served in the restaurant, Ali invited us to come and listen to her presentation in the lounge. She introduced us to the women who made history in Antarctica, whether they were the women behind the great explorers, mainly Emily, Shackleton's wife, or the first female scientists who set foot on the continent for the first time. Since then, progress has been made, but there is still a long way to go for women in Antarctica. Afterward, Regis and Helen presented their life on the Subantarctic Island of Kerguelen where they spent 13 months taking data on birds and plants. They talked about their life on the base and how the experience changed them.

Like every day on board, the morning ended with a delicious lunch in the restaurant, giving us time to rest before the next presentation. In the afternoon, Laura gave a presentation on the the geological history of Antarctica and what journey Antarctica made to get to the location it is now. It gave us an idea on how the landscape we visited formed. This was followed by a presentation on the art of Mate, a typical Argentine beverage, presented by Valeria.

As we approached the Beagle Channel, we began to see more coastal birds and local wildlife. The sea calmed down slowly as we found shelter near the South American coast. We prepared for the last activity of the day: a celebration of the journey and a toast given by the Captain. We had the chance to say goodbye to the crew members, the expedition team, and celebrate the end of an unforgettable journey. To close the evening, before enjoying a delicious final dinner, we were able to watch a beautiful slideshow of our trip. Martin did an amazing job putting together multiple photos taken during the journey. Although we were still on board, a feeling of nostalgia lingered in the air as we approached Ushuaia.

The day and the trip ended with a delicious dinner and a final drink at the bar!

We finally arrived in Ushuaia early this morning and it was time to say our goodbyes. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said farewell to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore Ushuaia while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, remembering good times and perhaps planning for more in the future.