OTL24-24, trip log, Antarctica - Discovery and learning voyage + navigational workshop

The day had finally come! It was time to board the good ship Ortelius for our Antarctic expedition! It was a windy day in Ushuaia with some spells of rain. However, the surrounding scenery of snow-encrusted mountains was spectacular (when you could see it!). The crew and expedition team had loaded our luggage onboard and delivered it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of Ortelius, our home for the next ten days, before heading up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and expedition team who assisted us in finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings and grab a coffee in the bar. Everyone was on board by 16:45. Then it was time to gather in the lecture room for the mandatory ship safety briefing. Once complete, we could sail, and we wanted to get going as soon as possible. We met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and heard from the Safety Officer, who gave a practical demonstration on how to put on our emergency life jackets. Next it was time for an abandon ship drill. We went to our cabins and upon hearing the general alarm, got our lifejackets, and went to our muster station in the bar. From there we were guided to our lifeboats, so we knew where to go in case of a real emergency.

As we made our way out to the lifeboats, Captain Per pulled Ortelius away from the dock and got us under way. A wave of excitement ran through the ship as everyone realized that our long-awaited and much-anticipated voyage had finally begun. With the drill completed, many of us lingered on the outer decks to enjoy the glorious scenery of the Beagle Channel as Ortelius was brought up to full speed. Captain Per invited us to join him in the bar for champagne and canapés, to raise a glass and toast the voyage ahead. This was followed by an introduction to shipboard services by Hotel Manager Volodymyr, and an overview of our expedition by our illustrious leader Sara. Before this concluded we met the expedition team.

With briefing formalities concluded, it was time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Ivan and his galley team, served by the ever-friendly dining room staff. After dinner we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered. Because 100% attendance is required, these briefings were performed while Ortelius was still in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Expedition Leader Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member. She also gave us the Zodiac Safety Briefing.

After a long and exciting day, it was time for bed and some well-earned rest, but we still had some daylight left so many of us went onto the outside decks to enjoy more of the Beagle Channel as we were escorted along by black-browed albatrosses and squadrons of Imperial cormorants. What would tomorrow bring? As the sun dipped below the horizon, the first bit of “ocean motion” was felt. It was very gentle, but it reminded everyone that we were leaving the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel and heading out into the mighty Southern Ocean. The infamous Drake Passage lay ahead. We hoped (some prayed) that it would be kind.

A soft announcement wakes us up. The ship, battered by 4-meter waves, sways relentlessly. The hallways are quiet, except for the occasional passenger battling seasickness. Breakfast buffet is ready at the restaurant on Deck 4, despite the conditions, the crew ensures everything is impeccable. Some guests opt for ginger tea, while others barely touch their food, overwhelmed by the constant movement.

The sound of waves crashes against the doors as we descend to the lecture room (Deck 3) a.k.a “The Church” to collect our muck boots, an assistant helps us pick the right size, and remind us to wear thick socks, the divers head to the bar for their own Mandatory Dive Briefing and nervous but excited laughter fills the room as it all now, becomes more real.

At the bar on Deck 6, Simon delivers his presentation about the seabirds of the Drake Passage, his insights on petrels and albatrosses captivate the audience, momentarily distracting them from the ships constant motion, at one stage he was at one with the sea, just having to mention light-mantled albatrosses and one appeared at the window! The lunch buffet on Deck 4 is more crowded now people are finding their sea-legs, the aroma of hot stew and fresh salads entices even those who struggled with seasickness earlier in the day.

After lunch, kayakers meet Adam at the bar for the Mandatory Kayaking Briefing, their enthusiasm is palpable despite the ship’s rocking. Second Officer, Ward Dekkers offers a presentation about bridge operations and navigation, his passion for his work is evident, and he answers questions about how the crew handles these infamous waters.

During the daily recap with the expedition team, Sara shares the first observations of the trip, whilst Koen and Bill give amazing recaps to close the event, celebrating Antarctica Day and the unique treaty that was signed by many nations to protect this incredible location. Dinner is served in the dining room; carefully prepared dishes help guests forget the waves for a while.

Walking slowly on the ship is a lesson no one forgets quickly, “one hand for yourself, one for the ship” becomes the day’s mantra. The sound of slamming doors and the water pounding against the hull serves as a constant reminder of the forces of nature surrounding us. Despite the seasickness, the spirit of discovery prevails. The Drake Passage is just the beginning of the Antarctic adventure!

The sea was still a bit rough when we woke up, but by wake-up call, the waves had calmed, offering a much smoother ride. Sara greeted us with the exciting news that the first fin whale had been spotted. The breakfast room was livelier than the day before, with more guests up early, ready to witness the magic of the ocean as the seas began to settle.

While we sipped our coffee and nibbled on breakfast, an announcement rang out from the bridge: humpback whales had been sighted nearby! The news spread like wildfire, and within moments, the bridge was crowded with eager passengers, all gazing out toward these magnificent gentle giants. As the whales swam away from us, Julian invited us to his lecture about the fascinating world of sea ice. He shared insights into this powerful natural element, taking us through its many shades—white, blue, and even black—each telling a different story of the icy wilderness.

But we weren’t done yet. Koen then captivated us with tales of Antarctic exploration, recounting the adventures of brave explorers in their wooden ships, setting sail into the unknown to conquer the great white continent. As we sailed part of their historic routes, we could feel the excitement of heading southward, ever closer to Antarctica itself!

Before we could set foot on the icy shores, there was one crucial step: biosecurity. In line with IAATO regulations, we gathered in the bar for the mandatory check. Clothing, muck boots, and bags were thoroughly inspected to ensure that no foreign seeds or contaminants would be brought into Antarctica. Once the checks were complete, we could all breathe easy, stow our gear, and relax with a well-earned break.

Sara then invited us to a lecture about the delightful penguins of Antarctica—an essential primer for the upcoming landing. We learned all about these charming birds and the vital role they play in the Antarctic ecosystem, making us even more excited for our first footstep on the frozen continent the following day.

Throughout the day, humpback whales made frequent appearances around the ship. Many of us were out on deck, scanning the horizon for sightings. Then, as if by magic, a pod of about 15 humpbacks appeared! Their flukes and flippers rose gracefully from the water in a breathtaking show of nature’s grandeur. What an unforgettable sight! As the evening approached, so did the first glimpses of land. Antarctica was finally in sight!

Though we still had some sailing ahead, the sight of land on the horizon filled us with a sense of awe and anticipation. The day, full of whale sightings and mesmerizing wildlife, left us all in eager anticipation for what lay ahead. Tomorrow, we would step foot on the frozen continent—our adventure in Antarctica had truly begun.

So, after the rigors of the Drake Crossing, it was a pleasure to wake to beautiful day and thankfully, a calm sea. Our home in this stunning world of ice, our expedition vessel Ortelius, was framed by the 360-degree panorama of majestic snow-covered mountains.

After traveling through the night, the ship positioned off Palaver Point for our first landing, conditions could hardly be better…a great day, no wind, no waves, and some bergy bits to add interest, Zodiacs were launched …a short ride and everyone was soon transported ashore to trudge up the hill to view the chinstrap penguin colonies. This was a beautiful introduction to Antarctica.

After lunch, Ortelius motored down the Gerlache Strait to Foyn Harbour, the location of our next adventure. Numerous loudspeaker calls indicated sightings of humpback whales to port…humpbacks to starboard…humpbacks straight ahead and just for a pulse-racing, exciting change, the iconic species - the orca!

At Foyn Harbour, we cruised to the rusty, bent and twisted hulk of the old whaling factory ship the Guvernoren lying dejectedly in a narrow cove menaced by huge slopes of snow and ice.

As if to emphasize the danger, one side of the bay just beyond the ship had the break-away indicator of a huge slab avalanche. We took care not to approach close to that shore. Once deployed and loaded with passengers, Zodiacs spread out and in twos for safety, explored the whole area before finally the icy cold had its effect and as a result of savage wind chill, passengers in most boats requested a return to the warmth of the ship.

This was followed by recap which included an excellent visual reminder of the IAATO rules regarding kneeling, sitting or lying down in the snow…all forbidden. The whole lounge then wished our superb barwoman, Glaiza happy birthday and she was presented with a cartoon illustration from our Scottish, fun-loving cartoonist guide, Bill.

The evening was a delightful case of humpback and orca overload as were treated to repeated exciting sightings. This amazing day ended perfectly with us voyaging into a magnificent sunset!

Yet another sunny day to wake up to. The memories of a rough and uncomfortable crossing of the Drake were long gone and the ‘early birds’ went to the outer decks for a crisp sunny morning, enjoying the majestic snow-covered mountains and glaciers and a mirror-like calm bay. While breakfast was served, the first Zodiacs with guides and equipment were seen setting a course for Danco Island, preparing for our arrival.

The story behind the name, Danco Island, is sad though. Emile Danco was a lieutenant in the Belgian artillery but studied geomagnetism and meteorology and was recruited by Adrian de Gerlache as a geophysicist on the ship Belgica – for the Belgian Antarctic Expedition in 1897. Unfortunately, Danco’s health was not good – he suffered from a heart failure and passed away in June 1898 during the expedition. A 200km stretch of coast on the Peninsula was named in his memory (Danco Coast) and so was Danco Island. A bit of history from the early expedition days.

Arriving at the landing site we were welcomed by several gentoo penguins – both in the water and on land, and several small colonies of nesting penguins were visited as we zigzagged our way up the 134m/400’ high hill. As usual in the colonies there were the never-ending disputes at the nests, penguins bringing pebbles, upcoming parents patiently incubating the new generation and skuas flying low over the nesting sites, looking for an opportunity to steal an egg or two. But most breathtaking was the scenery! From the top of the hill, we had a perfect and breathtaking 360-degree view of the snowclad mountains, the crevasse filled glaciers and the (still) mirrorlike calm bay, where kayaks and divers had the most beautiful morning. A humbling experience! For the brave, this was also the opportunity to do the polar plunge! Only the icebergs and the cold water differed the beach from the Caribbean, as the sun shined intensely from the cloudless sky, and anything from dips to regular swimming were taking place to the cheers from everyone still on land.

But the day continued giving. After our lunch, it was time for a continental landing at Neko Harbour. A special experience, as our landing site was close to a massive (calving) glacier. A major calving could send equally major waves to our beach, so as soon as we left the Zodiacs, we also left the beach and went to higher terrain. Once again, we could enjoy the ever-busy gentoo penguins on their highways to and from their nesting sites, and a perfect lookout high in the terrain was the perfect spot for photos with a beautifully crevassed glacier as background. Just to make the afternoon perfect, a couple of Weddell seals were resting near our landing site – ready for Instagram photos to be taken.

After our recap - plans and weather for tomorrow - Sara told us about the different species/subspecies of orcas, as we had the privilege to see a family group for a long time yesterday evening. And just to end a perfect day, we got another opportunity to see a major pod of orcas, socializing or hunting maybe, but a lot of tail slapping and spy-hopping were seen – and even a couple of Humpbacks came very close to the ship. What a wonderful day!

An early “good morning, good morning, good morning” from Sarah today announced that Ortelius would be passing through the Lemaire Channel, and we soon assembled in the bright morning sunshine on the bow or the bridge of the ship as we marvelled at the steep ice-clad cliffs that towered over us as we carefully passed through the narrow gap, steering around the many icebergs.

After breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs to tour around the iceberg graveyard, a labyrinth of grounded icebergs, and we marveled at the shapes and textures of the ice. We saw several Weddell and crabeater seals sunbathing on ice floes as hundreds of gentoo penguins darted near our boats, feeding on the abundant krill. We were also treated to the incredible spectacle of numerous humpback whales close to our boats as they also gorged on the krill, without any care to our presence. Sadly, we had to leave the whales to return to the ship for lunch and a fresh coat of sun cream.

With the route to our planned afternoon’s landing at Petermann Island blocked by ice, we chose to make a landing at Pleneau Island instead. Here we battled up the hill through the melting, soft snow past several groups of nesting gentoo penguins. Once at the top we were surprised to find a large seal basking in the heat; it was a juvenile male elephant seal, that for some reason thought it was a good idea to haul its blubbery mass far above the shore. We also observed a gentoo failing to defend itself as two rivals took turns to steal stones from its nest. As we returned to the ship our guides took us on a short detour to view an Adelie penguin and a crabeater seal sleeping on the sea ice.

At the evening recap, Sara used a rope to demonstrate how big some of the whales and dolphins are, Joyce shared some amazing facts about humpback whales and Allan told us about a buxom young lady from the Falkland Islands called Una who gave her name to a couple of peaks that tower over the Lemaire Channel.

The crew put on a superb BBQ feast that we ate on the helideck in the evening sunshine, followed by Sara and Bill in his yellow boots leading the dancing, before Ortelius headed back up the Lemaire Channel in the warm evening light to round-off the most incredible Antarctic day.

Another beautiful day in Antarctica. Yes, we have been lucky and let’s keep it going. This morning, we were going to land on Cuverville Island in the Errera Channel. After the first scouting Zodiac had tried to reach the landing site it was soon clear that the landing was not going to happen. There was way too much ice. However, we would be able to organize to Zodiac cruise through the swarm of icebergs.

The Zodiac cruise started out at some giant icebergs near to the ship. A drydock iceberg with a pinnacle tower was very impressive. Cruising through the fields of ice we encounter many different shapes and sizes of icebergs. Each one is a unique sculpture made by mother nature. Getting to know how the features were created gave us a better inside of the life of an iceberg. Each line and dent have a story and makes for an interesting explanation. We learned about organ pipes/ flukes and cupules/ golf ball effect dents. How tide lines are created in the different stages of the icebergs life and why some have black lines or are black entirely.

Further on our cruise we were able to encounter some Weddell seals. Small little islands next to Cuverville Island were excellent haul out spots for them. Some were quite small and only a few years old, however one was very large and was at least 3 m long. During the trip around Cuverville Island we encountered a few humpback whales. They were mainly on the move and didn’t stick around in the same area, which made it difficult to observe them. Getting closer to the island we got to see one of the largest gentoo penguin rookeries in the peninsula. It was interesting to see them jump in the water and get their first wash after having been on land for some time. For some, very necessary indeed. The cruise ended passing by the large icebergs for some final photos. All in all, a dynamic and interesting Zodiac cruise. In the afternoon we visited Orne Harbour, our second continental landing in Antarctica. Here we were going to visit a chinstrap penguin rookery. However, these penguins were not at the coastline but relatively high up a mountain side. This meant we had to climb up a steep snow hill to get to them. It was a hike that was challenging for some humans, never mind the penguins with their short legs having to do the same stretch each time they need to get to their nest.

The views from up the hill were absolutely worth it though. We could see the whole bay, known as Orne Harbour and we could see the Gerlache Strait to the other side. The sky had some clouds but most of it was blue. Nonetheless the wind made this experience quite cold and standing still in the wind got chilled many people to the bone. Just imagine what these penguins would have to withstand during snowstorms. We got to stand very close to the chinstrap penguins which they clearly did not seem to mind, most of them had eggs laying beneath them. Some of the partners were still collecting rocks to make their nest better equipped. It was great to see the penguins living in their own habitat and how they make it possible to survive in these extreme places.

During our recap Sara told us that we finally were going to have a bit more challenging weather. For our final activity day this is certainly not an issue. We learned more about what kind of sounds Weddell seals make and Bill explained a bit more about our ship m/v Ortelius. Its history and how it works on the lower decks which we don’t get to see.

After dinner many people were out enjoying the evening sun and blue sky. While cruising through the Gerlache Channel we encountered many humpback whales and large icebergs. While the sun was setting people were starting to settle down as well. It was clear that people are getting tired but still want to get the most out of the amazing journey. Let’s make it another amazing day tomorrow before heading back to South America.

We woke up to find Ortelius entering the ‘Gates of Hell’…not really, but it looked like that as the vessel slowly steered through the forbidding entrance to Deception Island. The place looked like a flooded moonscape or something out of a science fiction movie; brown lava, boulder strewn slopes, a collection of abandoned decaying buildings and rusty tanks on the right of the entrance. This was Whalers Bay, its history, and the geology of the island explained to us later during daily recap.

Our destination for a landing and short walk on an imposing crater rim was Telefon Bay. Ortelius dropped anchor and deployed the Zodiacs to ferry us all ashore. The weather was different from the blue-sky days experienced earlier in the voyage; overcast, the sea lumpier, more waves forcing passengers to protect their cameras from spray during the bumpy ride to the shore. The walk was a serious leg stretch, the physical effort and excitement of being high on a volcanic crater rim inducing a raising of pulses.

We were then back to the ship for lunch and relaxing for a couple of hours whilst voyaging north to Elephant Point on Livingstone Island for the afternoon landing. Sara, Bill and Allan set off in a Zodiac on a scouting expedition to check the swell breaking on shore to assess if landing was possible. There was a dumping wave at the beach but not one which presented a problem… just a wetting! The green light was given to land, and we were treated to a fantastic spectacle - the whole beach area was covered in wildlife, slumbering elephant seals, brown skuas and giant petrels nesting, lots of almost obligatory, gentoo penguins and a lucky observation, a lone Adelie penguin.

Boats ran a transfer shuttle to land at an empty spot on the beach. The journey in was bumpy and exciting whilst as we landed, breaking waves cascaded over the stern of the Zodiacs as we speedily clambered out. Some lucky or more experienced passengers sat in front and managed to escape the spray.

Staff had marked out a walk along the beach with poles avoiding out of bounds areas and ensuring that passengers were kept the regulation safe distance from wildlife. We were free to stroll about amongst the elephant seals, cameras clicking frantically every time we observed mock battles between young males.

It was a great last landing…how lucky we had been with this Oceanwide Expeditions voyage. A succession of memorable encounters with wildlife, interesting lectures and superb weather. We all felt replete…totally happy, and eager to return home to our respective countries as Antarctic Ambassadors and Oceanwide Expedition fans.

With a full day at sea ahead of us, Sara woke us at a slightly more reasonable time of day. In anticipation of a wild ride in the Drake Passage, we had taken pills and stuck patches behind our ears but were pleasantly surprised to find the ship barely moving in the benign seas.

After returning our muck boots we assembled in the bar to listen to Jens tell the story of Shackleton and his crew and their incredible escape to South Georgia after being stuck in the Weddell Sea pack-ice, and later in the morning Bill showed how painters have captured the stories of the sea in their works.

With the calm and sometimes foggy conditions on the “Drake Lake”, bird sightings were sparse, although occasional fin and humpback whales were sighted from the bridge throughout the day. The ornithological highlight was mid-afternoon when, near the Antarctic Convergence a large group of Antarctic Prions appeared suddenly behind the ship, stayed for half an hour before dispersing just as quickly.

After lunch, many of us went to the bridge where Adam and second officer Ward gave workshops on navigation where we learnt how mariners navigated using a sextant before the days of GPS positioning. Later in the afternoon Joyce talked about her work exploring the fantastic “other worlds” of the deep seabed in the polar regions.

At the evening recap Jens explained how the wandering albatross is able to effortlessly cover vast distances over the waves by dynamic soaring.

We awoke to overcast skies and three meter swell on our final day at sea, the conditions were uninspiring but the brilliant numbers of southern royal and wandering albatrosses gliding serenely around the ship certainly were not. They were giving amazing views as they cruised effortlessly on the wind behind the ship, often within a few meters – a wonderful start to the day. The coast of South America soon appeared on the horizon as we tucked into our last breakfast at sea.

The days program started soon after, with Tanya and the dive team giving a presentation about the wonders they had encountered on this trip and some great tales about other dives in Antarctica. We continued north and just before our arrival at the closest point to Cape Horn that Chilean authorities allow us to be, the call went out for hot chocolate, rum and cream (or any combination of the above) served out on deck, so we could view this infamous headland with a warming drink in our hands.

We could see the small dwelling perched on the cliff which doubles as the military lookout and the famous sculpture on the cliff-edge with the poem below inscribed next to it, in memory of the many mariners who lost their lives trying to round this unforgiving stretch of coast.

I am the albatross that waits for you at the end of the World.

I am the forgotten souls of dead sailors

who passed Cape Horn from all the oceans of the Earth.

But they did not die in the furious waves.

Today they fly on my wings towards eternity,

in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.

The rest of the afternoon passed serenely with a spirited question and answer session with the Captain before Sara gave a presentation concerning the threats that the marine environment faces in these modern times.

Then it was time for Captains Cocktails in the bar, the showing of the trip slideshow, put painstakingly together by Koen, a fantastic final dinner and then time to reflect on a wonderful expedition.

We arrived in Ushuaia early morning, but most of us were oblivious to anything happening. We woke up to a cloudy, calm, clear morning in Ushuaia, with the surrounding mountains reflected in the still harbour.

The crew and expedition team handled all the luggage and placed it on the dock, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time for disembarkation. The voyage was over, and it was time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our band of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home. For some, it was just the beginning of the next chapter in our own personal travel story.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,586 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 65°04’ S / 064°00’ W (Port Charcot).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Volodymyr Cherednychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you. Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team.