OTL27-25, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp - free camping, kayaking, snowshoe/hiking, photo workshop, mountaineering

The day had finally come! It was time to leave Ushuaia and board the good ship Ortelius for our epic expedition. The crew and expedition team had loaded our luggage onboard and delivered it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of Ortelius, our home for the next ten days, before heading up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and expedition team who assisted us in finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings, and grab a coffee in the bar, then it was time to gather in the lecture room for the mandatory ship safety briefing where we met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and her team who gave a practical demonstration on how to put on our emergency life jackets.

We practiced the abandon ship drill by putting on our lifejackets and heading outside to see the lifeboats. This is where we realized that we had already cast off from the pier and our journey was underway! Following the drill, we assembled in the bar where Captain Remmert welcomed us with champagne and canapés, Hotel Manager Volodymyr talked about the shipboard services, and Sara gave an overview of the voyage and introduced the expedition team.

It was soon time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Ivan and his galley team, served by the friendly dining room staff. After dinner we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member, and this was then followed by the Zodiac safety briefing.

With the formalities out of the way, many of us went onto the outside decks to enjoy what remained of the Beagle Channel, marveling at the spectacular mountains on either side in the evening light, scanning the waters for seabirds, whales and dolphins.

Our first day on the Drake Passage, one of the roughest seas on the planet. Luckily, we were blessed by the weather gods as the waves reached a maximum of 3 meters. Straight after breakfast, each deck was invited to the lecture room to pick up their muck boots. Fortunately, the nickname of this room, Vomitorium, did not become a reality this time.

This day was focused on mandatory briefings on different activities to understand what is expected from us and how to prepare gear. The variety of activities, from mountaineering to kayaking, camping, and photography, created a perfect balance of adventure and learning.

Our mountaineering guides Owain and Chris explained how to avoid falling into a crevasse and rather enjoy spectacular views from mountain tops. The kayak leader Zet recommended avoiding a polar plunge and rather stay balanced inside of the kayak while paddling with whales and penguins.

During our lunchtime, many birds were gliding along the ship. The wildlife sightings, especially the wandering albatross with its impressive wingspan of up to 3.5 meters, were breathtaking. We also saw black-browed albatross, southern giant petrels, and small prions flying around the ship.

In the afternoon, Koen and Gonzalo introduced us to a camping activity; Koen wearing a penguin suit to get everyone excited about camping on the Antarctic continent. What a great way to set the mood!

The informative lectures, like Matt's photography talk and the recap by Koen about the Antarctic convergence and Carina’s talk about nautical terms, helped to enrich the overall experience, giving everyone new insights into the unique environment they were exploring.

The day started with a process of signing up for the day’s events. There was a buzz of energy as everyone eagerly lined up to secure spots in their favourite activities. The options were kayaking, mountaineering or camping. We could do all of them, promising days full of adventure.

Our morning officially began with a fascinating presentation about whales. Hazel delivered an engaging talk that delved into the life of these magnificent marine mammals. We learned about their behaviour, migration patterns, and unique characteristics of different species.

Not long after the presentation, we had our first wildlife encounter. From the ship’s deck, we spotted two fin whales. Seeing these whales in their natural habitat was a humbling and unforgettable experience.

Lunch followed soon after, offering a brief but welcome break. The dining room was filled with chatter about the whales and anticipation for the rest of the day. After lunch, we attended a session on biosecurity. This important briefing ensured that we understood the measures needed to protect the pristine environment we were exploring. We had to clean our gear following strict protocols to prevent introducing any non-native species to these fragile ecosystems.

The afternoon brought another educational opportunity: a lecture about penguins. Carina shared insights into the lives of these iconic Antarctic birds. We learned about their breeding habits, adaptations to extreme cold, and different species found in the region.

The evening began with the daily recap, a cherished tradition where the expedition team reviewed the day’s events. We shared stories, answered questions, and got a preview of what was planned for the next day. We learned more about how to identify different animal species and about gigantic and colossal octopuses living in the depths of the ocean.

After dinner, we were invited to watch the brand-new Shackleton movie. It was a perfect way to end the day, surrounded by new friends.

Today was our first full day in Antarctica! Sara woke us up at 06:45. By that time, most of us were already up and outside as our ship was passing through the beautiful Lemaire Channel, offering incredible views of towering cliffs and glaciers.

Our first wildlife encounter came quickly. Watching orcas swimming close to the ship was a thrilling experience! Watching these powerful creatures glide through the water was amazing and really set the tone for the day.

After breakfast, we were ready to begin our first adventure. Mountaineers and kayakers set off, while the rest of us boarded Zodiacs for a cruise around Pleneau Island. It was incredible to see so much wildlife on our very first day surrounded by huge icebergs. We spotted Weddell seals, elephant seals, leopard seals, and crabeater seals resting on icebergs. There were also many Gentoo penguins waddling around.

At one point, the guides had to jump out of the Zodiac and push it through a shallow part of the water because the tide was going down. It was a fun moment, and we all cheered them on as they worked together to get the boat through.

On our way back, we had an unexpected treat—humpback whales! They were playful and curious, swimming incredibly close to the Zodiacs. We watched them spy-hop, lifting their heads out of the water to get a better look at us.

After lunch, we prepared for a landing at Port Charcot. When we arrived, humpback whales were again close to the shore. Port Charcot is a special place, rich in history and wildlife. We saw a magnetic hut, Gentoo and Chinstrap penguin rookeries, and even a few Adelie penguins. The best part was a hike to a viewpoint where we could see humpback whales all around us, breaching the surface and creating a spectacular sight. The kayakers were having an amazing time, surrounded by whales as they paddled through the water.

Port Charcot is an important spot in Antarctica, not just for its wildlife but for its historical value as well. We were all in awe of the stunning views and the abundance of animals.

Dinner was a time to share our excitement from the day, but the adventure wasn’t over yet. After the meal, it was time for the campers to head ashore. They would dig out sleeping pits and spend the night camping under the Antarctic sky.

What a day it was! We saw so many animals on our first day, orcas, humpback whales, seals, and penguins. We can only imagine what the next days will bring—this is just the beginning of our incredible journey in Antarctica.

We awoke to another beautiful morning in Antarctica with sunshine, very little wind and calm waters - perfect for our Zodiac cruise and other planned activities! The mountaineers were dropped off in the early morning at Hovgaard Island to begin their ascent to the highest point of the island. After a hearty breakfast, other guests embarked the Zodiacs for a cruise near the Southern end of the Lemaire Channel near Pleneau Island. A small group joined kayak leader Zet for a paddle. Everyone out on the water was treated to incredible views of Humpback whales, four young Southern elephant seals sleeping together on rocks, along with Crabeater, Weddell and Leopard seals hauled out resting on ice. For bird life, there were large rafts of Gentoo penguins swimming speedily around and under our Zodiacs and plenty of them ashore in their breeding rookery, with a few Chinstrap penguins among them. In addition to the wildlife, we were in awe of the huge, towering icebergs, admiring their texture, colours and shapes but giving them plenty of space! With so much to look at, the time flew by. Before we knew it, it was time to go back on board for lunch.

In the afternoon, we went ashore at Petermann Island. The kayaking group circumnavigated the island. After Sara’s briefing, we manoeuvred out of the Zodiacs, clambered up the rocky shore near the disused Argentine Hut, and followed the marked routes around the landing site. The main highlight of this afternoon was seeing nesting Adélie penguins, and we were happy to hear expedition staff saying that there was a good number of chicks, and they looked big and healthy. We also enjoyed a leg stretch as we slushed our way through the snow, but with the wind beginning to pick up it was time to head back to the comfort of Ortelius.

Following the daily recap and dinner, the bridge team skilfully navigated back through the Lemaire Channel. By this time the wind had increased significantly and was now accompanied by rainfall, but from the comfort of the lounge we watched humpback whales as we gazed out of the windows. Some people stayed up for a nightcap before bed, but many went to their cabins early to get rest for tomorrow’s activities.

Another adventurous expedition day! After breakfast, we headed out for a Zodiac cruise in Foyn Harbour. Foyn Harbour is a bay with a whaling shipwreck called Governoren that was grounded in 1915 after an accidental fire. Governoren lays in shallow waters and we were able to see the bow sticking out of the water. Nowadays, it is a nesting place of Antarctic terns. We cruised around hundred-year-old water boats that were left on the shoreline by whalers. Water boats were used to bring snow to ships to supply fresh water. We followed a shoreline of Enterprise Island finding Antarctic shags and Weddell seals. Cruising around beautiful iceberg sculptures while big snowflakes were slowly falling made it a magical experience.

When back on board, we were ready to have a hot drink to warm up. Chloe invited everybody to her lecture about plankton. Her enthusiasm about the microscopic world full of wonders and beautiful structures motivated us to search for plankton at every occasion during the next few days!

Our afternoon plan was a continental landing at Portal Point. It was snowing heavily. And it was so much fun! The expedition team brought the Antarctic flag for us to take a picture and for many, to confirm landing on their 7th continent. The team also arranged an area for an Antarctic silence. There we could watch the incredible snowy landscape around us and listen to the sound of Antarctic nature.

The day ended with a daily recap followed by a delicious dinner and a Happy Feet screening movie with popcorn!

We woke up in Paradise Bay, the sun shining brightly over the icy landscape, creating a breathtaking view. The morning air was crisp and fresh, and the excitement of the day ahead filled everyone with energy.

Our first adventure was a Zodiac cruise in Paradise Bay. The boat moved through the calm waters, taking us past towering icebergs and crystal-clear glaciers. We also visited Brown Station, an Argentine research station. The station is situated on the Antarctic Peninsula, and it plays a crucial role in scientific research. It's home to scientists who study the unique ecosystems in the area, including the surrounding wildlife and ice conditions.

After our cruise, it was time for kayaking. The conditions were perfect: the water was smooth and calm, and the skies were clear. As we paddled through the icy waters, we were lucky enough to see some amazing wildlife. A whale surfaced near us its massive body breaking through the surface of the water before disappearing again into the depths. We also spotted crabeater seals lounging on nearby ice floes. It was a truly magical experience being so close to such magnificent creatures.

The area around Paradise Bay is known for being rich in whale activity. There was plenty of whale feeding happening nearby, and it was incredible to witness. Watching these creatures feeding in their natural habitat made us appreciate the importance of preserving these beautiful environments. This was truly a highlight of the trip, as whale watching in such an untouched location was a rare and special experience.

Later, we gathered to listen to Koen who gave an informative lecture about sea ice. He explained how sea ice forms and how it plays an essential role in the Antarctic ecosystem. The lecture was fascinating, and it helped us better understand the significance of the environment we were exploring.

In the afternoon, we took part in mountaineering and kayaking at Neko Harbour, another stunning spot in Antarctica. Neko Harbour is famous for its picturesque scenery and is home to a large colony of gentoo penguins. We hiked up the slopes to enjoy a panoramic view of the bay and surrounding glaciers. At the base of the slopes, we also encountered penguins and their little chicks, which was one of the most heartwarming sights of the trip. The gentoo penguins waddled around, while some of the chicks huddled close to their parents for warmth.

After our activities, we returned to the ship for a recap of the day's events. Everyone shared their experiences and thoughts on the incredible sights we had witnessed. But the adventure wasn't over yet! For some, the day ended with a cozy night in their beds, but 40 of us had the opportunity to camp in the cold Antarctic wilderness. We set up tents on the icy landscape, bundled up in layers of warm clothing, and prepared ourselves for a night under the stars. The freezing temperatures made the experience unforgettable, but the unique surroundings and the sense of adventure made it worth it. As the rest of the group went to bed, those of us camping in Antarctica stayed awake, listening to the sounds of the frozen landscape and feeling incredibly grateful for the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be in such a remote and stunning place.

Today was the 8th day of our expedition, and once again, we woke up to the stunning beauty of Antarctica. The morning light revealed the ice-covered landscape. There’s truly no better way to start the day than with a view like that.

The mountaineers started their day early, meeting at 07:15 in the lecture room to get ready for their climb. Meanwhile, the rest of us slowly woke up and gathered for breakfast at 07:30. The dining room was filled with quiet chatter as everyone enjoyed a hearty meal to start the day.

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate for kayaking today. Strong winds and rough waters meant the activity had to be cancelled. Therefore, the kayakers joined the rest of the group to make a landing at Orne Island instead.

We started by visiting a viewpoint close to where we landed, and from there, we had a great view of a gentoo and chinstrap penguin rookery. It was fun to watch the penguins waddling around and taking care of their nests. After that, we took a longer, slippery walk to the other side of the island, where we found a colony of chinstrap penguins.

After exploring Orne Island, we returned to the ship for lunch. The warmth inside the ship was a welcome break, and we refuelled with a delicious meal. Then, it was time for a landing at Danco Island, which is known for its amazing views and large population of gentoo penguins. The kayakers first set off to explore the coasts around the island. The rest of us landed, and we were immediately surrounded by these cute penguins and their penguin highways, going about their daily activities. A short hike took us to a spot with incredible views of the bay, and some of us even climbed higher for a more stunning outlook of the area. The scenery was simply beautiful.

The moment everyone was waiting for finally came: the polar plunge! Passengers on land, kayakers, and some staff, all gathered to jump into the freezing Antarctic waters. One by one, we jumped in, feeling cold like never before. Truly a shock at first, but definitely worth it!

After the plunge, we hurried back to the ship to warm up. Hot showers and mugs of hot chocolate helped us recover from the cold. Later, we gathered in the bar to talk about the day’s events and hear about tomorrow’s plans. And with that, another beautiful day in Antarctica had come to an end. And with more adventures to come, we were all excited for what the next day would bring.

Our day began with Sara’s soothing voice over the PA system: ‘Good morning, good morning, good morning’! We had arrived in the vicinity of Damoy Point the previous evening in truly spectacular conditions and we were eagerly anticipating going ashore there this morning. Snow-covered mountains, towering glaciers, and calm waters awaited us as we finished our breakfast and boarded the zodiacs. Some of us chose to try out snowshoeing whilst we had good snow conditions allowing us the opportunity to do so.

Exploring ashore we followed the marked route around the site, what gave us a good leg stretch. There were numerous Gentoo penguin rookeries, and we looked closely to try to spot chicks nestled warmly beneath a parent bird. We also relished the chance to see two historic huts: Damoy Hut (UK) and Bahía Dorian Hut (Argentina).

Damoy Hut was built by the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) in 1975 and served as a transit station for BAS staff and supplies until 1993. A ski-way above the hut was used as a runway for small aircraft making journeys to and from BAS’ Rothera Research Station. Nowadays it is managed by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust and is kept in a good state of repair, enabling us to step inside and ‘go back in time’ to the period in history when the hut was in use. Tins of food line the shelves, the kettle is poised over a small stove, sleeping bags line the bunk beds and comics and magazines lie on the worktop. Informative posters give information on the history of the place, and we enjoyed being able to imagine what it might be like to leave the comfort of our ship and sleep in such a hut.

This was a particularly special morning for two of our guests who got married ashore! With Assistant Expedition Leader Chloe assuming the role of the minister, and with many guests serving as witnesses to the happy occasion, the couple celebrated their love for one another surrounded by the beauty of Antarctica. After another delicious buffet lunch on board, it was time for our afternoon activity zodiac cruising in the vicinity of Jougla Point and Goudier Island.

We were interested to see Port Lockroy, aka the Penguin Post Office, the most southerly post office in the world. As our boats passed near to shore at Jougla Point, we saw Weddell seals hauled out resting. The graveyard of whale bones ashore told the story of the area’s history as a busy whaling area. As we observed the remains of these majestic ocean giants lying on the shore, we were thankful that the hunting stopped in the Southern Ocean before those magnificent creatures were lost from the area forever. We marvelled at the mountaineering guides and their group of ice-climbing guests as we saw them ascending an ice wall in the distance. We also enjoyed cruising a glaciated bay nearby before heading back to the ship.

We were happy to return to the comfort of Ortelius to warm up, hear the daily recap and enjoy our evening meal. However, tonight was not just any meal, it was our BBQ celebration dinner served outside on the helicopter deck!

After eating the amazing food lovingly prepared by the galley team and served by the dining crew we enjoyed laughing and dancing the night away, with both old friends and new.  

We have seen and experienced a lot so far. What else could we possibly add? What about sailing into an active volcano and visiting one of the largest whaling stations in Antarctic waters?

We came from the far south after having enjoyed our BBQ on the Neumayer Channel. Our morning activity was a ship's cruise through the Gerlache strait northwards. It was a beautiful day with great views of the surrounding mountains. Sara invited us to her lecture about Marine threats in the Southern Ocean. A lecture that is close to her heart and shows in detail how we are affecting the Southern Ocean by our presence.

At 12:00 we navigated through a spectacular Neptune’s Bellows which is a narrow entrance into the caldera of the Deception Island volcano. When we entered the caldera, we could see the whaling station on our starboard side. After a quick lunch, the expedition team was ready to receive the first people. Arriving at the beach, we stepped into a sulfuric mist that was coming from a hot sand on the shoreline. We hiked towards Neptune’s Window; a gap in the caldera that was used by whalers as a viewpoint to spot whales. It gave us a chance to enjoy a view of the beautiful Bransfield Strait and its colourful volcanic rocks.

The whaling station itself was an interesting site to visit. A large machinery and several houses are still there. Graves at the back of the whaling station remind us how harsh the conditions must have been. The sulphuric steam, the sun shining through the mist and large buildings in the background really made for an unforgettable experience.

When we were back on the ship, the expedition team invited everyone for a hot chocolate with rum on the bow on our way back through Neptune’s Bellows. Leaving the active volcano behind, on a sunny day while drinking a hot chocolate with rum was certainly a great way to say goodbye to our Antarctic experience.

We woke up slightly apprehensive. Today is one of our two-day crossings of ‘The Drake’, one of the most hyped ‘so-called notorious’ sea areas in the world.

But when we checked the movement, it was not as expected. Nothing even remotely like the infamous “Drake Shake”! A pleasant gentle slow rolling and only the reassuring powerful sound of our ever-reliable engines.

We could go safely to a leisurely breakfast! This was a Drake Lake!!! It felt like a holiday as we had just a relaxing programme of lectures.

Hana delivered her lecture “How to observe the ocean under 400m thick ice shelf in Antarctica”, describing research and logistics at one of the Norwegian research bases in Antarctica.

Koen followed mid-morning with a thoroughly researched early days of Antarctic exploration. What drove these heroic sailors to venture into the unknown, to risk danger in this icy vastness?

It was a stimulating presentation that encouraged us to read more about this enormous continent.

At 4.00pm, just after we had been enticed to the lounge by promises of a cake and coffee, Carina delivered her lecture “Ortelius and pictures from behind the scenes”, describing Ortelius and life onboard and how they treat the sea water onboard with the method of reverse osmosis.

During the recap, questions were answered and then we went to have a plated dinner.

A surprisingly relaxing first day in the ‘Drake ended with a relaxing atmosphere in the bar, filled with a mix of familiar voices, and the occasional burst of laughter.

We awoke to another sunny day on our final day at sea. The coast of South America soon appeared on the horizon and the brilliant numbers of Southern Royal and Wandering Albatrosses gliding serenely around the ship. They were giving amazing views as they cruised effortlessly on the wind behind the ship, often within a few metres.

The days programme started soon after, with Joyce giving a presentation about life on the deep seabed, followed by Hazel's talk about the Seabirds of the Drake Passage.

After lunch we had numerous sightings of feeding Sei Whales, the third largest baleen whale in the world.

It was a quiet lounge in the afternoon as many chose to sunbathe on the top deck or catch up on lost sleep in their cabins. Later in the afternoon Sara gave a presentation of some of the other Oceanwide voyages planned for the Arctic and Antarctic and showed when the best time of year is to see the various species in the polar regions.

Then it was time for Captain Cocktails in the bar, a presentation of the trip’s slideshow, put together by Matt, a fantastic final dinner and time to reflect on a wonderful expedition!

We woke up in the harbour of Ushuaia early morning. It was a calm morning with surrounding mountains covered by a thin layer of clouds.

The crew and Expedition Team handled all the luggage and placed it on the pier, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time to leave the ship, the voyage was over, and time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our band of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home. For some of us, it was just the beginning of the next chapter in our own personal travel story.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1716 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 65°08.0’S / 064°03.4’W (Salpetriere Bay).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Volodymyr Cherednychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team