OTL31-24, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp

Today was a beautiful day in Ushuaia, the weather was warm, and the sun was shining as we prepared to set sail for our Antarctic Basecamp voyage. A perfect setting to begin our journey. The town motto of Ushuaia is: The end of the world, the beginning of everything. What a perfect phrase to take with us on board as we travel to one of the most remote and special places on earth.

At 16:00 we all embarked the ship feeling incredibly excited for what laid ahead. We found our cabins, then were called to the lecture room for a safety briefing. We donned our bright orange life jackets and were escorted to deck 6 to see where our lifeboat is in case of an abandon ship situation. It was then time for Captain’s welcome and cocktail where we met all the expedition staff and heard how the next 12 days would pan out. This was followed by a delicious buffet dinner and lastly with an IAATO briefing so we knew the rules and regulations of beautiful, pristine Antarctica.

The day was jam-packed! After our first night on Ortelius we had our first wakeup call from our expedition leader Sara. Just after breakfast, today’s program started with handing over muck boots, that we will use over the entire expedition.

Next on schedule were numerous mandatory briefings about safety and operation details during various activities. First, our mountaineering guides Owen and Max told us what to expect during hiking and trekking across the Antarctic hills, snowfields and mountains.

Next, Loel, the kayaking leader, invited us for a similar briefing regarding water-based activities. After lunch, Misha and Charlotte hosted another meeting in the lecture room, this time about camping under the Antarctic sky. Soon afterwards mountaineers called us again to divide us into groups, to advise about the gear and to fit crampons to our boots. We can’t believe this is happening and we just can’t wait to experience all those crazy things!

Later in the afternoon Juan presented his lecture introducing us to polar photography. Before dinner we had our first recap, a daily event where we go through what we have seen and plans for tomorrow and we receive short talks from the expedition staff members on different subjects. This time Sara visually presented wingspans of birds we are likely to see on the voyage with the help of a rope with dedicated markers. Charlotte talked about the Drake Passage and its oceanography.

The sea conditions we had today are excellent with wave heights about 2 meters. Not bad for the Drake Passage, one of the most notorious stretches of water on the planet! These calm conditions allow us to be out on deck safely and observe different sorts of wildlife around the ship spotted by the expedition team from the bridge, like Southern royal albatross, black-browed albatrosses and giant petrels in the morning, and hourglass dolphins in the afternoon!

After delicious plated dinner in the restaurant some of us retired to our cabins, but others move to the bar. We spend the evening chatting and mingling with other guests and the expedition team members in a state of some excitement about what tomorrow is going to bring.

We started the day with a positive wake up call: we had been doing great progress in navigation during the night, and the Drake was calmer than yesterday. Some expedition guides even called this “a Drake lake”. Even though some guests are still not feeling great, we started seeing more faces at the dining room and roaming around. The excitement to be closer to Antarctica can be felt in the air.

It is extremely foggy outside, but still most of us are on the outer decks observing the mysterious and vast southern ocean that some albatrosses and petrels seem to own. We want to see whales; we have seen a few blows at the distance, but the visibility doesn’t help.

In the morning, the bar filled up with guests and cups of coffees as we were ready to attend the two first lectures of the trip: “Whales and Dolphins of the Southern Ocean” by our marine mammal specialist Katlyn and “On the Thin Ice” by our glaciologist Jakob.

After an abundant lunch in the dining room, we prepared to face our last mandatory and probably the most important activity if we want to set foot in Antarctica: biosecurity! The expedition team takes it very seriously, which is spreading among us a sense of responsibility and willingness to take care of this pristine environment.

Once all our outer gear was cleaned and biosecured, most of us spent some time at the bridge, just in time to see our first iceberg! It was a very exciting moment. That was a massive iceberg that looked just magical in the middle of the fog. Bridge officers said we may see land by mid-afternoon.

Meanwhile, we headed up to the bar again and got ready to learn about penguins with a great lecture from Lucia.

The visibility after all didn’t allow us to see land, but daily recap started on time to remind us all what was going to happen soon: tomorrow we will wake up in Antarctica. Sara encouraged us to be out on decks before sunrise and the crowd is full of nervous, excitement and anticipation for the first day of operations in Antarctica on this once in a life-time trip.

We awoke to rather dramatic view, the clouds hanging heavy above the water. Our first day in Antarctica, we have reached Orne Harbour, and everyone got ready to face the first day of activities. Having gorged ourselves on a voluptuous breakfast, mountaineers and kayakers went to get into gear, and the rest went for a landing and a small zodiac cruise.

At Orne Harbour, people could observe a colony of Chinstrap Penguins at the top of the landing site, while Antarctic Fur Seals and Crabeater Seals were playing around next to the zodiacs, curious about the unannounced visitors.

The backdrop was Spiget Peak, climbed by the mountaineers, an impressive rock rising steeply from the waters, on which the Chinstraps made their home. On the small zodiac cruise, people immediately acquainted a couple Humpback Whales, feeding in the small sheltered cove. These immense animals glided seemingly without effort in the water, breathing huge fountains, their bodies slicing the water. As far as first mornings go, we experienced an amazing array and diversity of both landscape and animal sightings.

Having overeaten at lunch and weighing significantly more than before, we then headed to Cuverville Island, where we engaged in another split landing, half of which went to the landing site swarming with Gentoo Penguins, waddling about their business, whilst the other half went on a zodiac cruise amongst the impressive iceberg graveyard, regaling in all hues of blue. In amongst those icebergs, Humpback Whales were swimming about, and close to the shore, the Gentoos were filing in and out of the water, flying through the icy waters of Antarctica, showing a grace and elegance you wouldn’t assume from observing them on land. A few Fur Seals and Weddell Seals were lounging on the rocks, relaxing from a prolonged feeding bout, before heading back out.

However, the day wasn’t over yet, as today marked the first day of camping! Sixty courageous souls set off after dinner in their warmest clothes to spend the night on Antarctic soil. Landing in amidst the sunset colours, they dug shallow graves in a sheltered spot, slid into their sleeping bags, and admired the milky way coming in and out of the mist. It was a beautiful night, not too chilly, on which people experienced first-hand the beauty of Antarctica.

Some were up very early this morning! 60 campers spent the night in their small dugouts and cozy sleeping bags under starry skies, going to sleep to the sound of penguins, whales breathing in the bay and glaciers calving in the distance.

The rest of us were waking up as usual to Sara’s soft voice; Good morning, good morning, good morning – rushing to the porthole – is it weather for kayaking and mountaineering? And yes, it was – kayakers set off on a calm sea with their little armada, mountaineers showing their line of silhouettes on the pristine white glacier, near the runway and Damoy Hut.

In the hut, known as the “southernmost waiting room”, there was a bit of storytelling – scientists and equipment would be shipped there, but needed to be flown another 180miles/350km’s south to the British Rothera scientific station – weather permitting!!! So, anything from a few days to more than a week, this little – but cozy hut – would be “home” for up to 15 people. 20 years of “service” from 1973 till ’93, until it no longer was needed, and it was left from one day till the next, leaving food stores, tools, sleds, everything! And no, there were no more chocolate in the drawer, labelled “chocolate” 😊

After getting all the active groups together for a delicious lunch, where experiences were discussed, we were ready for the second half of the day at Port Lockroy on Goudier Island.

Again, the activity level was high – the brave mountaineers set off with their ropes, ice axes and snowshoes, and the equally brave kayakers could enjoy yet another magnificent trip in calm conditions. Those of us on the water – zodiac cruising as well – had the privilege to see the “speedy” and often slightly skittish minke whale stay in our area for an extended time, which doesn’t happen often.

Unfortunately, the “post office” at Port Lockroy was not open for us to send a post card to our loved ones, but instead we could enjoy all the energetic gentoo penguin chicks around the buildings and their first “swimming lessons” in the ocean – cute little creatures!

Silence was enjoyed near the glacier – only the sounds of the Antarctic nature were heard – until we carried on and found an Elephant seal, Weddell seals - and a single Leopard seal – the first of many to be found in the days to come!

Late in the day - the timing was perfect – everybody came back from their activities just as it started raining a bit, enjoying a hot drink in the bar, recap, and sharing all the experiences with all our newfound friends – what a wonderful day!

An early start to catch the sunrise and best of the Lemaire Channel, a cathedral of volcanic peaks and glaciers. The glassy reflections were stunning as we weave through belts of brash ice and icebergs. The Lemaire is one of the most scenic passages on our voyage and this morning was an especially scenic transit.

Just after breakfast we moved carefully through the iceberg graveyard up to Port Charcot and anchored for the day. We spent the day exploring the area by zodiacs and kayaks while the mountaineers scaled Hovgaard Island and we visited the Gentoo colonies in the back of Charcot Bay. Those that took the time on Port Charcot, and had a keen eye, could spot all three species of brush tail penguin together near one of the penguin highways. Two Adélie penguins and one chinstrap penguin were mixed in a group of moulting gentoos. The magnetic hut from the Charcot expedition was also visible as much of the snow had melted this late in the summer. Jens was spinning wonderful stories about life in this hut checking the bearing of compasses every day.

A magnificent back drop for the iceberg graveyard, was Booth Island, with exposed peaks and grey skies accentuating the Antarctic blues and greys of the water punctuated with the shades of white in the pinnacles and spires in the graveyard.

The zodiac cruises found 7-8 different leopard seals, a few who seemed curious and playful. There was a great flurry of activity with a group of crabeater seals on a larger iceberg as well.

The kayakers found some slightly more laid-back leopard seals who continued to lounge on their icy beds while the kayaks paddled for a close view. A great day with some spectacular wildlife, leopard and crabeater seals, minke and humpback whales, Antarctic shags, terns, skuas, gentoo and Adélie penguins all in a stunning natural setting.

The mountaineering group headed out first into a damp morning with Sarah navigating the Zodiac through the brash ice. On landing site, the group fitted snowshoes due to a soft and wet snowpack. They enjoyed a lovely counterclockwise circuit around the Island, with a two-minute silence at the most isolated spot of the journey to hear the natural sounds all around and fully appreciate the magnificent environment.

While the mountaineers were climbing, the rest of us came ashore to explore the lower features of Danco Island. Gentoo penguins were scattered among rocky outcrops at all levels of the island. A few had nests on the beach this year, and despite the risk of losing the eggs at high tide, they successfully reared fluffy chicks that were running around on the beach as we came ashore. The snow had melted enough this season to expose the foundations of the hut that used to stand at British Base O and the cairn up on the hillside. A few whale bones lay on the beach near the concrete foundation of the hut, reminders of our human impact in this place. Molting penguins stood near the ruins and bones, their feathers covering the ground in large patches.

Kayakers prepared for a breezy paddle through the icy currents coursing through the Errera Channel. They explored the shoreline of the island where skuas and kelp gulls were chasing each other near the molting penguins. After their paddle, they came ashore to join in for the polar plunge!

The brave among us took the opportunity to strip off their layers and take the plunge, whilst the eagle-eyed doctor stood by with the defibrillator. Nearly everyone participated in the plunge while onlookers laughed and cheered.

In the afternoon we repositioned through heavy ice as we made our way to Paradise Bay. Once we arrived the expedition team assessed the conditions for our afternoon activities. Unfortunately, visibility was too poor to send out the mountaineers, but kayaking and zodiac cruising went ahead.

As we set out on the water the clouds dropped even lower, and snow began to fall. Zodiacs and kayakers alike searched for whales, seals and penguins among the ice. We were also in the vicinity of Base Brown, an Argentinian summer station for research. The zodiacs cruised by to say hello throughout the afternoon and a few scientists came out for a friendly wave or a chat. A large calving came from a nearby glacier while some zodiacs were in the area – a spectacular sight! A curious leopard seal visited others. The biggest showstoppers of the afternoon were the humpback whales. Two individuals in particular held four of our zodiacs hostage while they interacted with them. They danced under water and lay next to the zodiacs almost as if to hold the boat in an embrace.

We all returned to the ship with big smiles and covered in snow. The large heavy snowflakes started accumulating at the surface of the water creating a white icy layer on top of the sea.

The morning of the 11th greeted the expedition team with high winds and challenging sea conditions. Despite the valiant efforts of Sarah and Laurence, who ventured out into the elements to check conditions in their Zodiacs, a safety call had to be made!

We were due to visit the US research base Palmer Station on the southern coastline of Anvers Island. An opportunity to visit the base is very rare but alas it was not to be.

In search of calmer seas Ortelius headed eastward hoping to find calmer conditions in the vicinity of Paradise Bay at a location called Stony Point.

The expedition team spent most of the transit on the bridge looking for wildlife as we cruised back to the Gerlache Straight. The time spent behind binoculars paid off – killer whales were spotted! Scattered among growlers, 10-15 small type b killer whales were traveling near the coast line. Ortelius weaved through the ice as best as she could so we could enjoy these animals before continuing to our next destination.

On arrival we continued to face challenging conditions. Loel had to make the safety call and cancel his kayak group for another day. The mountaineers also elected to delay their next mountaineering excursion until more suitable operational sites could be found.

Despite the conditions, the hardy Oceanwide zodiac team ran a full bumpy and windswept cruise, still finding beautiful wildlife sightings and calm leeward coves.

At the end of a long day the camping guides successfully located an alternative more sheltered venue for our second camping session. With this camp made possible due to their hard work and resilience everyone who wished to experience a night under the stars was now able to do so!

Today the second group of campers were picked up at 05:30. It was beautiful as the pink light started to slowly appear out of the mountains, bringing light upon us as our sleepy heads were still adjusting to the 04:30 wake up from Misha, Jens and Charlotte, our camping guides. It was a beautiful night as we slept under the Antarctic stars with a huge mountain looming over us as we slept. To make it even more amazing we had several Gentoo Penguins happily stood on the rocks below our sleeping spot. Once we were back on the ship we filled up with coffee and pastries whilst the ship repositioned to Orne Island.

The weather was absolutely stunning; blue sky, flat glassy seas and the sun was sprinkling its rays. We spent the morning watching Gentoo Penguins and Chinstraps waddling around being their usual funny selves, the chicks chasing after the parents, can they ever get boring…No. To top the morning off we had a Humpback Whale cruise right past the landing site! At 11:00 we were all back on the ship and as we sailed to our next destination; Foyn Harbour. We could see constant blows from Whales near and far, it was a magical site and a typical Antarctic scape.

Foyn Harbour really proved to be the winner for whale action this trip, we had several groups of feeding humpbacks lunge feeding again and again. One whale in particular was throwing its pectoral fins and tail out of the water as it lunged forward, wow what a spectacle. As we looked in the water, we could see krill everywhere; the reason for so much continuous lunge feeding. After watching this and just feeling in awe it was time to leave. We passed by the Governoren on the way back to the ship, a whaling factory vessel which ran aground in 1915 because the whole ship started to burn down. The wreck at over 100 meters in length is still partly out of the water and one that can be seen very clearly as you look beneath you.

That evening it was really time to get the party started with an Antarctic BBQ! It was held on the helideck with benches and tables and of course music. We ate sausages, chicken, steak, corn on the cob, garlic bread the list goes on and so does the size of our waistbands…. Once we ate the important part came, the dancing! And boy did we dance. All night long until 1am, it was so much fun, and we all really let our hair down, some had a few tequila shots, but we didn’t worry about the hangover by this point. The staff brought the speaker into the bar, so it felt like a true nightclub; sweaty, loud and dark and a night we will remember forever.

Today is our last day in Antarctica, and what a day it is! Deception Island, one of only two active volcanoes in the Antarctic, stole our hearts with its stunning beauty and rich history. The island is a rocky ring with only one narrow entrance to its interior – the infamous Neptune’s Bellows.

After we sail through Neptune's Bellows early in the morning, we then set foot on Telefon Bay, we were overcome with awe at the power of nature and the resilience of life in this harsh environment. This place is so different from everything else we saw during the voyage – glaciers of the island are very small compared to those on the Antarctic Peninsula, so moderately inclined and smooth hills and mountains are exposed, covered only with a thin layer of fresh snow. The hike around the volcanic crater was nothing short of magical, with the sun shining down on us and the sound of waves crashing against the shore. We felt so small in the vastness of this place, yet so connected to it in a way we can't quite explain.

The lunchtime transfer to Whaler's Bay was equally mesmerizing. Whaler's Bay is a bittersweet reminder of the human impact on this pristine wilderness. Seeing the remnants of the Norwegian Hektor whaling station and the graves of those who had come before us is a sobering experience. Back in the early-20th century, about 150 whalers slaughtered hundreds of whales here every austral summer. In the period 1944-1969 a research base (known as Base B) was operated by the UK, until a volcanic eruption destroyed it, forcing scientists to abandon it. And yet, the beauty of the wildlife around us reminds us that nature always finds a way to thrive, no matter the obstacles, as gentoo penguins and fur seals present along the Whaler’s Bay beach.

We also took the opportunity to cruise around the area with zodiacs! As we leave the calm water of the caldera, we go outside of Neptune's Bellows to more swelly Bransfield Strait. The sheer majesty of the volcanic geology and abundance of wildlife take our breath away – from the playful fur seals basking in the sun to the gentoo and chinstrap penguins marching along the shore, we feel like we are witnessing a true miracle.

As we headed back to Ortelius, the weather took a turn for the worse. The wind picks up, and we knew it was time to say goodbye to this unforgettable place. But as we set sail for Ushuaia, our hearts were full of gratitude for the memories we had made and the beauty we had witnessed. Antarctica, you will always hold a special place in our souls.

After a night with a bit of movement of the ship – after all our calm days down around the Peninsula, we woke up to a relatively calm day in The Drake. For those who were up early and maybe spending time on the outer decks or near windows, they had the pleasure of seeing about 10 fin whales “waving goodbye” as we headed north at almost 12 knots, pushed by a gentle 30 knot southerly wind.

Gathering at the bar later in the morning, Max and Owain told – and showed – us all the tips, tricks and gear needed in crevasse rescue. One time after the other, poor Max “fell into crevasses” in the bar but was fortunately rescued by Owain in different ways. 😊 All sorts of rings, carabiners, pulleys, and ropes were needed – but so comforting to know, that we were in the safe hands of specialists, when we were doing our mountaineering!

Then it was time to say goodbye to our trusted sturdy Muck boots, which kept our feet dry during wet landings and carried us to pristine lookouts and on top of volcanic crater rims.

In the midafternoon a small flock of Kerguelen petrels were sighted following the ship. A fairly rare sight in The Drake, some of us came out on deck to enjoy them for a few minutes as they swooped up and down on the wind.

After a delicious lunch, Charlotte took us into the world of whales – how they feed and breed, the food chains- and webs, and where the millions of tons of krill in the Southern Ocean are the foundation of almost all the wildlife, we have seen down there. Now more enlightened about our friendly giants – the humpbacks – of whom we have seen so many on our Zodiac cruises.

Later, our own Iceman – Jakub – told us about “the future” of ice in the climate change – how glaciers are affected and the polar ice in general. Not always a positive story unfortunately!

After our dinner, it was time to find the winners of the photo competition – by applause! The bar went slightly more noisy than usual, as people were cheering their favorites, but well-deserved winners were found in the 3 categories: Landscape, Wildlife and Funny pictures.

Then quite a few dressed up for the occasion and went to the top deck to see the stars. Again, the weather played tricks on us, sending showers over the ship – but eventually it cleared, and we finished the day by having an hour of beautiful clear skies – stars, satellites, and a shooting star. Time for wishing!

This morning our wake-up call found us leaning inside the ship slightly. We had finally caught up with the windstorm raging off the West Coast of Chile. As the storm passes Cape Horn it brings a band of winds up to 60kts with it for this last section of the Drake Passage. The outer decks are closed for the first part of the day for our safety.

After breakfast we began our onboard lecture program with Laurence talking about bathymetry and what is happening below the sea’s surface in these polar regions that we love to explore. Who knew icebergs and glaciers did such cool things to the sea floor!

In the mid-morning Sara gave a presentation about Marine Threats. A tough but necessary topic. We have just spent an incredible week in a fragile and remote place, hopefully becoming inspired to preserve these wild places. But there is plenty of trouble closer to home, and there are things we can all do to reduce our impact on the planet.

During lunch heavy winds keep the ship leaning hard on starboard as we continued to steam toward Cape Horn. Winds gusted over 70 knots during lunch and as Jens presented his afternoon lecture on the failed Imperial Trans Antarctic Expedition. We were enthralled with the Shackelton story and the greatest small boat journey of all time.

Just when we thought we couldn’t walk sideways any longer - the ship’s heading finally changed. We had begun our approach to the Beagle Channel. Strong winds still prevailed with rain and hail, but the ship now had the wind on the bow and the sea state was calmer in the sheltered waters of Tierra del Fuego. The expedition and hotel team had a little surprise for us as we entered the lee of South America, hot chocolate with whiskey and whip cream on the deck with a side of brisk, fresh air. We put on our jackets and drank our warm drinks while taking in the first views of trees on the hillsides in almost two weeks.

Warmed up by chocolate and spirits we piled into the bar for one last lecture from Lucia. She shared some of the history and culture of her home country Argentina. A perfect final topic for our voyage as we passed the Argentinian coastline on the starboard side of the ship.

It was then time for Captain’s Farewell. Glasses of juice and sparkling wine were served in the bar and Captain Toni came down to say a few words about our voyage and express thanks on behalf of the Oceanwide Team. The Expedition Team also shared in the memories and thanks as we finished the event with the trip slideshow put together by Juan and Misha. It was an amazing trip showcased in music, photo, and video.

The seas calmed significantly, and all decks were opened as we prepared to go to the dining room for one last dinner. Volodymir brought the hotel team into the dining room before dessert was served. We cheered and clapped for the wonderful crew that have been taking care of us while onboard.

Well, here we are back in Ushuaia, and it is time to leave Ortelius. At 08:30 after our last buffet breakfast the Expedition Team carried our luggage outside for us and we disembarked the ship. We said our goodbyes to the crew and staff and either hopped on the bus or went into town for last minute souvenir shopping. It has been a phenomenal trip with so many activities happening, we have met some fascinating and incredibly inspiring people who are doing amazing things in the world. We only hope to cross paths in the future.

Thank you for your enthusiasm and support, but most of all for joining us on this adventurous Antarctica voyage. We hope to see you again in the future, wherever that might be!

Total distance sailed: 1813 nautical miles

Farthest south: 65°04.4’S / 064°02.1’W

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Toni Salo, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and her team, Hotel Manager Volodymir Cherednychenko, and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!