OTL29-25, trip log, Antarctica - Discovery and learning voyage

The day had finally come! It was time to leave Ushuaia and board the good ship Ortelius for our epic expedition. The crew and expedition team had loaded our luggage onboard and delivered it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of Ortelius, our home for the next ten days, before heading up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and expedition team who assisted us in finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings and grab a coffee in the bar, then it was time to gather in the lecture room for the mandatory ship safety briefing where we met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and her team who gave a practical demonstration on how to put on our emergency life jackets.

We were undergoing the abandon ship drill, putting-on our lifejackets and heading outside to be shown to the lifeboats, when we realised that we had already cast-off from the pier and our journey was underway! Following the drill, we assembled in the bar where Captain Remmert welcomed us with champagne and canapés, Hotel Manager Volodymyr talked about the shipboard services, and Sara gave an overview of the voyage and introduced the expedition team.

It was soon time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Heinz and his galley team, served by the friendly dining room staff. After dinner we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member, and this was then followed by the Zodiac safety briefing.

With the formalities out of the way, many of us went onto the outside decks to enjoy what remained of the Beagle Channel, marvelling at the spectacular mountains on either side, seeing big flocks of Black-browed Albatrosses, Imperial Cormorants and South American Terns and some active pods of Dusky Dolphins, wowing us in the perfect evening light.

The MV Ortelius embarked on its southward journey across the Drake Passage under remarkably calm conditions for this often-tempestuous stretch of the ocean. On the first day of the two-day crossing, guests were treated to a serene voyage characterized by overcast yet bright skies and an unusual absence of the turbulent waves typically associated with this infamous passage. The morning began with some impressive wildlife sightings, much to the delight of bird enthusiasts and naturalists on board. The tranquil seas provided excellent opportunities to spot a variety of seabirds. Highlights included sightings of several majestic Wandering Albatrosses, their enormous wingspans gliding gracefully over the waters. Grey-headed Albatrosses and Black-browed Albatrosses also made appearances, adding diversity to the sightings. Southern Rockhopper Penguins, with their distinctive crests and energetic movements, were observed as well, drawing the attention of both seasoned birders and casual observers alike.

To enrich the journey, three captivating lectures were offered throughout the day. In the morning, Simon delivered a passionate presentation on the Birds of the Drake Passage. His talk provided fascinating information on the various seabird species encountered in this region and their unique adaptations to life on the open ocean. Later, Koen captivated the audience with an introduction to Antarctic exploration. His lecture delved into the history of daring expeditions, recounting tales of both triumph and tragedy as explorers braved the harsh Antarctic environment. Guests gained a deeper appreciation for the pioneering spirit that has driven human curiosity about this remote and unforgiving continent.

In the afternoon, Chloe presented an engaging lecture on cetaceans of the Southern Ocean. Her talk highlighted the diverse species of whales and dolphins that inhabit these frigid waters, offering insights into their behaviours, conservation challenges, and the critical role they play in the marine ecosystem.

Around lunchtime, a few spells of fog briefly reduced visibility, creating an eerie but picturesque atmosphere over the calm seas. However, the fog lifted by early afternoon, restoring the excellent visibility that had characterized most of the day. The calm waters continued to make for smooth sailing, much to the relief and enjoyment of Oceanwide Expeditions’ guests who had prepared (or secretly hoped) for a more tumultuous crossing.

As the day drew to a close, the ship's crew hosted an engaging recap session. Discussions included navigation insights and detailed plans for the second day at sea, ensuring all guests were well-informed and prepared for the continued crossing. These recaps provided an excellent opportunity for guests to reflect on the day's events and ask questions about the voyage ahead. To cap off the evening, all guests were gathered for a special screening of a documentary detailing the discovery of the wreck of Shackleton's legendary ship, The Endurance. The film recounted the dramatic expedition to locate the long-lost vessel and captivated the audience with stunning visuals and compelling storytelling. Popcorn was served, adding a touch of cinematic charm to the experience.

As guests retired for the night, anticipation for the second day of the Drake Passage crossing was palpable. With the promise of continued lectures, potential wildlife sightings, and further exploration of this iconic maritime route, spirits remained high aboard the MV Ortelius.

On the second day of MV Ortelius's southbound journey across the Drake Passage, guests and crew were treated to remarkably favourable weather. The day was generally bright and sunny, with a brisk headwind that kept temperatures crisp. Despite the headwind, the seas remained unusually smooth for this notoriously unpredictable passage, offering a comfortable and steady ride for all onboard.

The day’s wildlife highlight was the mesmerizing sight of a large flock of more than 50 Cape Petrels following the ship for hours. These agile seabirds, with their striking black-and-white plumage, swooped gracefully above the waves, providing guests with countless photo opportunities and moments of wonder. The steady presence of Cape Petrels was complemented by regular sightings of majestic Black-browed Albatross and the hardy, White-chinned Petrels, both effortlessly gliding on the breeze. Naturalists and wildlife enthusiasts on board were thrilled by these encounters, which offered an exciting glimpse of the diverse birdlife of the Southern Ocean. Spotting these magnificent seabirds against the backdrop of calm seas and clear skies added a sense of tranquillity and connection with the wild Antarctic environment.

The busy lecture programme continued onboard with a morning talk by Ben, who provided an insightful and engaging talk about the Antarctic Convergence and Divergence. This pivotal topic highlighted the importance of oceanographic boundaries in shaping marine ecosystems and influencing weather patterns. Guests learned about how the merging of warmer sub-Antarctic waters with the colder Southern Ocean creates a nutrient-rich environment that supports a vast array of marine life.

Ben’s lecture not only enhanced the guests’ understanding of these complex systems but also underscored the significance of the region as a dynamic and essential part of the global climate system.

After a hearty lunch, all guests underwent rigorous Antarctic Biosecurity checks in preparation for their highly anticipated arrival on the Antarctic Peninsula the following day. The inspection process was meticulous, ensuring that no foreign biological material, such as seeds or soil, was inadvertently carried ashore. Crew members guided the guests through thorough checks of clothing, boots, and gear to remove any potential contaminants. This essential procedure is part of a concerted effort to protect the pristine Antarctic environment and maintain its ecological integrity. All guests participated diligently, understanding the importance of their role in safeguarding one of the last untouched wildernesses on Earth.

In the afternoon, Carina delivered a captivating lecture on Ortelius. Her presentation offered fascinating insights into the ship’s operations, including navigation, daily logistics, and the crucial role of the engine room in powering the vessel through challenging polar waters. Guests gained a newfound appreciation for the ship’s engineering marvels and the skilled crew members who keep everything running smoothly. Carina’s presentation provided a behind-the-scenes look at life onboard, fostering a deeper connection between the travelers and the ship that had already become their temporary home on this remarkable journey.

Mid-afternoon brought a moment of sheer excitement as the South Shetland Islands appeared on the horizon. The snow-capped mountains seemed to float ethereally in the clouds, creating a breathtaking and surreal sight. The sighting of these remote and rugged islands fuelled the growing anticipation among guests for the upcoming landings and exploration activities.

As the day drew to a close, conversations buzzed with excitement about tomorrow’s arrival on the Antarctic Peninsula. The combination of smooth sailing, engaging lectures, and stunning wildlife sightings made for a memorable and fulfilling second day at sea. The journey across the Drake Passage was proving to be as enriching as it was adventurous, setting the stage for unforgettable encounters in the icy realms of Antarctica.

The first full day of activities aboard the MV Ortelius in Antarctica was just spectacular, offering guests an unforgettable introduction to this remote and pristine wilderness. With perfect weather and calm seas, the day was filled with breathtaking scenery, remarkable wildlife encounters, and memorable shore landings.

The day began with an early southward transit through the iconic Lemaire Channel, often referred to as "Kodak Gap" for its stunning photogenic landscapes. Conditions were ideal, with gorgeous early morning sunshine illuminating towering snow-covered cliffs and massive icebergs. Calm seas enhanced the tranquil beauty of the passage, while sightings of elegant Snow Petrels added a touch of magic to the journey. Upon reaching Pléneau Island, guests boarded Zodiacs for an exhilarating cruise through the iceberg graveyard. The weather continued to be perfect, with bright sunshine casting a dazzling glow on the ice formations. The calm waters created the ideal setting for wildlife observations, making the morning truly unforgettable.

Seals were the stars of this part of the day, with multiple Leopard Seals spotted both in the water and lounging on ice floes. Their sleek, powerful forms captivated onlookers. Crabeater and Weddell Seals were also plentiful, while a charming juvenile Elephant Seal delighted passengers with its plump, endearing appearance. Wildlife enthusiasts were thrilled when a couple of lucky Zodiacs scored sightings of a Minke Whale, while others enjoyed the spectacle of a Humpback Whale spotted from the ship. The excitement continued with a visit to the guests' first Gentoo Penguin colony, where many big chicks were seen waddling around, eliciting smiles and admiration from all.

Despite the morning's success, the afternoon’s plans faced an unexpected challenge. Large icebergs blocked the planned transit to Port Charcot, forcing the ship to adjust its course. Instead of heading directly to the intended landing site, the Ortelius had to sail back north through the Lemaire Channel and circle around Booth Island. While this detour was unplanned, it provided additional opportunities for travelers to enjoy the dramatic Antarctic scenery and the ever-changing palette of light on the ice. The ship's crew expertly navigated the icy waters, ensuring a safe and scenic journey back to the afternoon landing site.

The afternoon activities began with a much-anticipated landing at Port Charcot, a site steeped in history and natural beauty. Guests eagerly disembarked for a welcome leg-stretch and exploration of the area. Among the thousands of Gentoo Penguins, small numbers of both Adélie and Chinstrap Penguins were spotted, adding variety to the avian sightings. The cacophony of penguin calls and the sight of fluffy chicks being fed by their parents provided a fascinating glimpse into the life of these resilient birds. Many guests chose to hike up to the memorial cairn at the top of the island, where panoramic views of the surrounding landscape awaited. The clear weather offered perfect visibility, allowing for stunning photographs and moments of quiet reflection in this remote and majestic setting.

The first full day aboard the MV Ortelius set a high bar for the rest of the Antarctic expedition. With perfect weather, incredible wildlife encounters, and unforgettable landscapes, travelers were left in awe of the region's beauty and vitality. The adaptability of the crew in navigating unexpected challenges ensured that everyone had a fulfilling and enriching experience.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, all guests returned to the ship with hearts full of wonder and excitement for the adventures yet to come in this remarkable corner of the world.

Our second day in Antarctica aboard the MV Ortelius was filled with remarkable experiences, dynamic weather, and unforgettable wildlife encounters. As the ship expertly maneuvered through icy waters, the anticipation of new adventures kept spirits high among everyone on board.

We began the day with an exhilarating landing at Petermann Island, a stunning destination known for its breathtaking scenery and abundant wildlife. The approach itself was memorable as we passed through an area dramatically referred to as the "iceberg graveyard," where massive, sculpted icebergs lay grounded in shallow waters, their shapes and hues creating an awe-inspiring landscape. Once ashore, we were treated to the lively spectacle of Adelie penguins with their nearly fully-moulted chicks. The young penguins were highly active, darting across the rocky terrain and energetically chasing their parents for food. This bustling scene captured the essence of the breeding colony at a pivotal time of the season.

Adding a dramatic touch to the spectacle were South Polar Skuas, making regular flyovers in search of any unattended morsels. Their sleek forms and sharp calls reminded us of the dynamic predator-prey interactions playing out across this remote ecosystem.

Meanwhile, the plankton research Zodiac team had an unexpected and thrilling encounter — a close-up sighting of a Humpback Whale. While the original mission was focused on plankton sampling, it’s safe to say that the whale stole the show. The massive, graceful creature captivated researchers and passengers alike, offering an unforgettable moment amid the icy waters.

Initially, the weather was overcast but calm, creating a serene atmosphere for exploration. However, by the end of our landing, a chilly wind swept across the island, bringing with it snow flurries that hinted at the challenges still to come.

The afternoon's activities took us to the Argentine Islands, where we embarked on an exciting Zodiac cruise past notable landmarks such as Vernadsky Station and Wordie Hut. These historic sites offered a fascinating glimpse into the region's history and scientific endeavours. Despite starting in relatively calm conditions, the weather soon mirrored the morning's shift, with brisk winds and persistent snow flurries adding a sense of adventure to the journey. However, the cold was momentarily forgotten as wildlife sightings stole the spotlight.

One of the most impressive highlights was a leopard seal sighting. Known for their sleek, muscular forms and formidable predatory skills, the seal appeared unfazed by our presence, lazily drifting on a patch of ice. We also spotted multiple crabeater seals, which lounged near the water's edge, seemingly indifferent to the chilly conditions.

Equally captivating were the icebergs, which came in an astonishing array of shapes and colors. Deep blues, translucent whites, and intricate patterns on their surfaces added an artistic dimension to the stark polar environment. As we cruised through these icy formations, it was impossible not to feel a profound sense of wonder at nature's artistry.

Despite the increasingly frigid weather, the Zodiac cruise proved to be a highlight of the day. The combination of wildlife encounters, striking ice formations, and the sheer beauty of the Antarctic wilderness kept our spirits high even as temperatures dropped.

Our second day in Antarctica was a testament to the unpredictable and awe-inspiring nature of this remote region. From the vibrant penguin colony at Petermann Island to the dramatic seascapes and wildlife encounters during the Argentine Islands cruise, the day's experiences left an indelible mark. Despite the challenges posed by chilly winds and snow flurries, the spirit of exploration prevailed, fuelled by the remarkable sights and sounds of this frozen wonderland. We eagerly awaited what tomorrow would bring.

The morning was a magical blend of calm and wonder as we set off on a Zodiac cruise through Paradise Harbour. Despite the overcast skies and periods of heavy snowfall, the scenery was enchanting. Snowflakes fell softly, creating a dreamy atmosphere as we navigated past Brown Station and into the picturesque Skonthorp Cove.

Wildlife sightings were abundant and captivating. We observed Weddell seals resting peacefully on the land, their sleek forms blending with the icy backdrop. The bustling Gentoo penguin colony around the station was alive with activity, complete with fluttering Snowy Sheathbills and watchful South Polar Skuas. On the cliffs, the Antarctic Shag colony was a highlight, with many chicks already fledged and energetically swimming in the icy waters.

As we admired the stunning glacier in Skonthorp Cove, a delightful surprise awaited us. The "Party Zodiac" appeared, helmed by Sara and the hotel team, who treated chilly travelers to hot chocolate generously spiked with rum and topped with whipped cream. Spirits were high as we sipped the warm concoction, soaking in the breathtaking views and camaraderie.

After a memorable morning on the water, we landed at Stoney Point, a coastal site that offered a rare and delightful experience. Due to the lack of wildlife at the top, guests were given a unique opportunity to enjoy snow activities typically prohibited for biosecurity reasons. Laughter filled the air as we sat, knelt, and made snow angels on the pristine snow. Snowball fights erupted, with participants dodging and ducking amidst gleeful cheers. The atmosphere was infectious, with everyone revelling in the carefree fun.

The grand finale of the afternoon was the traditional polar plunge. The bravest guests shed their layers and dashed into the frigid Antarctic waters from the beach. The high-pitched squeals and gasps as the icy water hit were both hilarious and awe-inspiring. The sense of accomplishment was palpable as participants wrapped themselves in towels, beaming from the thrill of the plunge.

Just when we thought the day couldn't get any better, the evening meal surpassed all expectations. We gathered for an outdoor BBQ on the helipad at the stern of Ortelius. The backdrop was nothing short of spectacular, with towering icebergs and vast Antarctic landscapes surrounding us. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was vibrant as we shared stories and laughter over hearty plates. The celebration took on a festive note with impromptu dancing—though some of the moves on display were questionable, they added to the joy of the evening.

As the day came to a close, we reflected on the sheer wonder of our experience. A Zodiac cruise through magical snowfall, wildlife encounters, playful snow activities, and an unforgettable BBQ amidst Antarctica's breathtaking scenery combined to create a day we will treasure forever.

It was a reminder of the incredible beauty and joy that this remote, icy continent offers, leaving us in awe and grateful for every moment.

Our penultimate day in Antarctica was nothing short of magical, blessed with glorious weather that showcased the pristine beauty of this remote wilderness. The morning dawned clear and calm, with blue skies, warm conditions, and hardly a breath of wind — a rare gift in this often unpredictable environment. It set the stage for an unforgettable day of exploration, wildlife encounters, and awe-inspiring scenery.

The day's adventures began with a landing at the Orne Islands, where the primary objective was to visit the Chinstrap Penguin colony. The sight was extraordinary, with a bustling colony teeming with life. Hundreds of Chinstrap Penguins, many tending to their big, fluffy, grey chicks, created a vibrant scene of activity. Among them were Gentoo Penguins, also nurturing their young. The air was filled with the cacophony of competing calls as parents navigated the chaotic colonies, searching for their chicks. The sheer energy of the penguin colonies offered a rare and intimate glimpse into their lives, making this visit an absolute highlight.

Adding to the morning's excitement, an enormous Elephant Seal lay lazily by the landing site, seemingly unbothered by the human presence. Nearby, several Weddell Seals were spotted lounging on the ice, their sleek forms blending harmoniously with the surroundings. Out in the channel, the waters came alive with the sight of numerous Humpback Whales. Their majestic movements—arched backs and flicking tails—were mesmerizing, and their presence underscored the incredible richness of Antarctic marine life.

After an unforgettable morning, the afternoon promised yet another incredible experience: a Zodiac cruise around Cuverville Island. The weather remained spectacular, with sunshine illuminating the breathtaking landscape and calm waters reflecting the icy wonders around us. Immense icebergs, some grounded in front of the island, towered like frozen sculptures, their intricate details accentuated by the brilliant sunlight.

The circumnavigation of Cuverville Island proved to be a wildlife enthusiast's dream. Several Leopard Seals, sleek and formidable, were observed resting on ice floes, their powerful presence a reminder of the Antarctic food chain's apex predators. Weddell Seals were seen in good numbers, adding to the diversity of marine mammals encountered. For one particularly fortunate Zodiac group, the moment of the day came when a Humpback Whale breached spectacularly right next to their small boat. The sheer power and grace of this massive creature emerging from the water left everyone speechless, a memory to be cherished forever.

As the day transitioned to evening, the wonders continued. The incredible weather persisted, treating us to a serene and unforgettable journey northward through the Gerlache Strait. The long transit toward tomorrow’s destination was punctuated by the presence of Humpback Whales feeding all around. Wherever we looked, there were signs of life—spouts of water breaking the surface, tails gracefully slicing through the waves, and the occasional breach, adding drama to the tranquil scene. The Gerlache Strait, with its dramatic mountain peaks, glacial vistas, and shimmering waters, served as the perfect backdrop for our voyage. The combination of remarkable wildlife sightings and the ethereal beauty of the landscape created a fitting conclusion to a day that epitomized the wonder and majesty of Antarctica.

This day in Antarctica will forever stand out as a highlight of the expedition. The perfect weather, extraordinary wildlife encounters, and moments of quiet reflection amidst unparalleled natural beauty came together to create an experience that felt almost otherworldly. As we sailed northward, spirits were high, and conversations buzzed with excitement and gratitude for the privilege of witnessing such wonders. Tomorrow’s journey promises more adventures, but it will be hard to top the magic of this penultimate day. Antarctica, in all its wild splendour, has left an indelible mark on our hearts.

Our last day of operations in Antarctica was a fittingly dramatic and memorable conclusion to a remarkable expedition. The day began with an early start as the Ortelius entered the Deception Island caldera through Neptune's Bellows at 6:30 a.m. The atmosphere was both eerie and awe-inspiring, with overcast skies and a thin veil of mist clinging to the island's highest peaks, amplifying the sense of entering an active volcano that is long overdue for an eruption.

The bustling Chinstrap Penguin colony near the entrance barely commanded attention as passengers focused on the breathtaking passage through the narrow entrance flanked by towering rock formations. The ship navigated deeper into the caldera, heading to our landing site at Telefon Bay.

Upon disembarking onto the stark black sand beach, we embarked on a hike up and around an impressive crater rim within the caldera. Initially, the weather was cooperative, providing clear views of the volcanic landscape. However, halfway through the landing, conditions began to deteriorate rapidly. The wind intensified, making it difficult to maintain footing at the highest points of the hike, and a steady rain set in toward the end. Despite the challenging weather, the vast majority of passengers demonstrated remarkable resilience, completing the circular route around the crater rim. Their determination was rewarded with much-deserved hot drinks back on board the ship.

As we sailed back out through Neptune's Bellows, Jens introduced a short but fascinating video about the last eruption of Deception Island. While there was a collective sense of relief that the island's overdue eruption had not occurred during our visit, there was also a hint of wistfulness that we had missed witnessing such a dramatic geological event.

Our journey continued north to our final afternoon destination at Hannah Point on Livingston Island. Unfortunately, the weather forecast was grim, and this time, it proved accurate. Gale-force winds of 40 knots and heavy seas made it impossible to conduct any operations off the ship. Although a few staff members lowered a Zodiac to test the conditions, it became clear that it was too rough to safely disembark the guests. As a result, the Gentoo Penguins and Elephant Seals could only be observed from a distance.

Despite the disappointment, the afternoon onboard offered an educational and engaging alternative. Simon delivered an insightful presentation, recapping the various bird species encountered during the trip, with a particular focus on penguins and interesting facts about the Snowy Sheathbill. His talk was a delightful reminder of the diverse and fascinating wildlife we had been privileged to observe during our Antarctic adventure.

With two days of crossing the notoriously unpredictable Drake Passage ahead, the day concluded with the now-familiar routine of the daily recap. Sara provided an update on the weather forecast and outlined plans for the following day. This was followed by a satisfying meal and a chance for travelers to relax in the bar, sharing reflections on the incredible journey we had all experienced.

Our last day in Antarctica encapsulated the spirit of the entire expedition — filled with awe-inspiring landscapes, unpredictable weather, and a sense of camaraderie among guests and crew. As the Ortelius sailed northward, we carried with us indelible memories of a truly extraordinary adventure at the bottom of the world.

After our unforgettable expedition to Antarctica, we began our journey northward across the infamous Drake Passage. Fortunately, the weather was remarkably kind for this notoriously turbulent stretch of water. The day unfolded under bright sunshine, with a steady westerly breeze and manageable swells ranging between 2 to 3 meters. Given the Drake's reputation for ferocious storms and towering waves, these conditions were as close to ideal as one could hope for.

The open ocean offered a mesmerizing yet tranquil landscape. The wildlife sightings were modest but still enchanting. Black-browed Albatrosses glided gracefully over the waves; their distinctive dark eyebrows highlighted by the sun. We were also treated to glimpses of a couple of Grey-headed Albatrosses and a few Soft-plumaged Petrels skimming the surface of the deep blue waters. Though not the most prolific day for wildlife spotting, the occasional bird sightings provided delightful moments of connection with the vastness around us.

Onboard, the lecture program filled the day with fascinating stories and knowledge. Jens captivated us with a riveting account of the legendary race to the South Pole between Robert Falcon Scott and Roald Amundsen. His vivid storytelling brought to life the fierce competition, harsh conditions, and triumphs of this historic endeavour.

Later, Matilda shared her experiences of living and working at Scott Base in Antarctica. Her tales of daily life in one of the most remote and extreme environments on Earth were both insightful and inspiring. She painted a vivid picture of the challenges and rewards of scientific work on the frozen continent.

The highlight of the lecture series, however, was Chloe’s passionate presentation about the remarkable world of plankton. Her enthusiasm was infectious as she described the critical role these microscopic organisms play in the marine ecosystem. Chloe's talk sparked a newfound appreciation for the hidden life forms that thrive beneath the surface of the ocean, making us all realize the interconnectedness of the planet's ecosystems.

Between lectures and wildlife sightings, the day was filled with moments of quiet reflection. Gazing at the vast expanse of the deep blue ocean, many of us found ourselves reminiscing about the extraordinary experiences we had in Antarctica. The pristine landscapes, the awe-inspiring wildlife, and the sheer beauty of the ice-covered world lingered in our thoughts. As we sailed northward, there was a palpable sense of gratitude for the journey we had been privileged to undertake and a tinge of excitement for what lay ahead.

As the sun dipped lower on the horizon, casting a golden glow across the waves, we remained on deck, captivated by the tranquil beauty of the Drake Passage. It was a lazy, peaceful day—a perfect contrast to the thrilling adventures of our Antarctic expedition and a gentle transition back toward civilization.

Our second day heading north across the Drake Passage brought calmer seas and steady progress toward Ushuaia. Despite overcast skies and occasional light rain, the voyage was smooth and mercifully free from the notorious turbulence often associated with this stretch of ocean. Nature offered a captivating display, making up for the muted weather. Birdlife increased noticeably compared to the previous day, with spectacular sightings of Southern Royal Albatross and Snowy Albatross gracefully gliding alongside the ship. Additionally, large flocks of Sooty Shearwaters and agile Wilson's Petrels danced just above the water, creating a mesmerizing scene as they darted and skimmed the ocean surface in front of the vessel.

By mid-morning, the South American coastline came into view, marking a significant milestone on our journey. The sight of land brought a renewed sense of anticipation as guests caught their first glimpse of Ushuaia, our final destination. The distant mountains framed by mist added an element of drama to the horizon, heightening the excitement on board.

The day’s lecture programme offered insightful presentations that captivated both seasoned explorers and first-time adventurers. Carina opened the series with a fascinating talk on the lifecycle of icebergs. She delved into their creation, their vast journeys across the ocean, and their eventual demise. The audience gained a deeper appreciation for the challenges of tracking these frozen giants and the implications of their movements.

Following Carina's session, Koen delivered a compelling lecture on the importance of sea ice. His talk highlighted how crucial sea ice is for the survival of polar wildlife and the broader impact it has on human communities and the global climate. The final presentation was led by Sara, who provided an engaging overview of Oceanwide’s extensive travel destinations. From pole to pole and numerous breathtaking locations in between, her talk fuelled excitement and inspired future voyages.

In the late afternoon, we entered the scenic Beagle Channel, marking the final stretch of our journey. The atmosphere aboard became more celebratory as travelers anticipated their return to Ushuaia and reflected on the incredible experiences shared during the expedition.

The evening brought unexpected excitement as the ship anchored off the Chilean town of Puerto Williams. A helicopter, along with its pilot and engineering crew, was welcomed aboard in preparation for MV Ortelius’s next daring expedition. The operation was executed seamlessly, adding a touch of adventure to the day's close.

As the ship resumed its journey, we sailed through the night, ultimately arriving back in Ushuaia in the small hours of the morning. The voyage across the Drake Passage, renowned for its unpredictable conditions, had treated us kindly, allowing for a smooth and memorable return to South America. This day was a perfect blend of natural beauty, engaging educational sessions, and moments of genuine excitement, setting the tone for our final hours aboard the MV Ortelius.

We woke up in the harbour of Ushuaia early morning. It was a calm morning with surrounding mountains covered by a thin layer of clouds.

The crew and Expedition Team handled all the luggage and placed it on the pier, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time to leave the ship, the voyage over, and time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our band of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home. For some of us, it was just the beginning of the next chapter in our own personal travel story.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,647 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 65°14.45’S / 064°15.2’W (Vernadsky Station).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Volodymyr Cherednychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team