OTL32-25, trip log, Antarctica - Beyond the Polar Circle - Wilkins Ice Shelf - Aurora Australis

The day had finally come! It was time to board Ortelius for our Antarctic expedition, to pass the Antarctic Circle, and to explore the deep south including the Wilkins ice shelf. The journey to the bottom of the world began in Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city on Earth, where the chill in the air felt like an omen of the adventure that lay ahead. Despite the brisk wind that greeted us, it was a sunny day with fresh snow falling on the peaks of the mountains, as we boarded the M/V Ortelius. A sense of excitement hung in the air, and anticipation was sensed among us. The ship, a sturdy ice-strengthened vessel, was waiting for us at the dock, ready to take us across the Drake Passage and into the icy waters of the Antarctic Peninsula.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and staff who assisted us with check-in at reception and finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings, and grab a coffee in the Bar. Everyone was on board by 16:30. Then it was time to gather at the Bar for a mandatory briefing on the ship safety procedures. Once complete, we could sail. We met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, who introduced the mandatory safety video. Next it was time for an abandon ship drill. Upon hearing the emergency alarm we went to our cabins, put on something warm, grabbed our lifejackets, and went to the muster station back up to the Bar. From there we were guided outside and up to the bridge deck where the lifeboats are located, so we knew where to go in the event of a real emergency.

We went back to our cabins to put away our lifejackets when Sara invited us to join Captain Per Andersson in the Bar for prosecco and canapés, to raise a glass and toast the voyage ahead. This was followed by an introduction to shipboard services by Hotel Manager Oleksandr, and an overview of our expedition by our illustrious leader Sara. Before this concluded the Expedition Team and the ship’s doctor introduced themselves to us.

With the first briefing formalities concluded, it was time for our evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Heinz and his galley team, and served by the ever-friendly dining room staff. After dinner, we were called back to the Bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered. Because 100% attendance is required, these briefings were done while Ortelius was still in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Expedition Leader Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member. And then Sara gave us the Zodiac Safety Briefing.

After a long day of travel, it was time for bed and some well-earned rest. What would tomorrow bring. The infamous Southern Ocean laid ahead. We hoped (some prayed) it would be kind.

Our morning had started with a wake-up call from Sara at 07:45. Shortly after, we made our way to the Restaurant on Deck 4 for a buffet breakfast, where we gathered to fuel up for the day ahead.

Later in the morning, the staff called us, deck by deck, down to the Lecture Room on Deck 3 to collect our muck boots. The instructions were clear: bring thick socks to try them on for sizing. It had been a little chaotic, but we all managed to get properly fitted for the adventure that lay ahead. There were beautiful albatrosses – the Wandering and the Southern Royal flying around the ship so some of us made the most of these beautiful animals and watched them as they glided around the ship. Some of us unfortunately were feeling a little seasick as we hadn’t quite got used to the 4 metre swell yet, so we rested in our cabins.

At 11:30, Gary invited us to join him in the Bar for a fascinating presentation about the Sea Birds of the Southern Ocean. We listened intently, captivated by the details of these majestic birds and the harsh environment in which they thrived. By midday, it was time for lunch. We returned to the Restaurant on Deck 4, where another buffet had been served. It was the perfect opportunity to refuel and socialize after the morning’s activities.

In the afternoon, Jess called us up to the Bar for an Introduction to the Whales and Dolphins of the Southern Ocean. The presentation was just as compelling as the earlier one, and we eagerly took notes and asked questions about these incredible marine creatures. At 18:15, the Expedition Team gathered us in the Bar for a daily recap. We came together to review what we had seen throughout the day, reliving the highlights and discussing what we could expect in the coming days.

By 19:00, it was time for dinner. We were served a plated dinner in the Dining Room on Deck 4, which offered the perfect conclusion to a day full of discovery and learning. As the evening unfolded, the crew reminded us about the ship’s safety rules: walk slowly, always keep one hand for the ship, and make sure all doors were firmly shut while keeping fingers clear of door frames. It had been a thrilling, yet cautious day aboard the ship, filled with adventure and valuable lessons. We retired for the night, already looking forward to tomorrow’s explorations.

We woke up to our second day in the Drake passage feeling slightly better than the previous one. The sea state was not as rough and at times the sun was shining. Some seabird species such as Black-browed albatross and Giant petrels were spotted, we were practicing our new bird identification skills after Gary’s seabird lecture the day before.

The lecture program began with Valeria giving us some tips and advice on how to make the most of your camera during the trip with her Photography in Antarctica lecture. She also talked about how to capture the Southern Lights, if we got lucky enough to see them.

Sara then talked about the penguin species that we were likely to encounter on our journey to the deep south of the Antarctic Peninsula.

We had another excellent buffet lunch. Today there was no time for a post lunch siesta though, because we had to head to the lounge for the biosecurity party. It is essential that we protect the Antarctic environment from potential invasive and harmful species by cleaning our outdoor clothing and equipment. Once we were checked off by the Expedition Team we could relax for a little while and enjoy the polar scenery that was starting to appear on the horizon. Saskia’s voice appeared on the PA system to inform us of some exciting news that the first iceberg of the trip had been spotted. We enjoyed this huge piece of floating ice along with some others, a tantalising taste of what we had in store.

In the afternoon, Enric gave us a lecture about the geology and icy landscapes of the Antarctic Continent. Then at the evening recap Sara gave us the plans for our first day of operations. We would be heading to the Fish Islands. Enric explained to us the main reasons why Antarctica is frozen, and Tom gave us an entertaining story of how a Dutch explorer could very well have been the first person to discover Antarctica. Saskia then gave us the news about who had won the competition and guessed the closest location to our first iceberg. Matteo was the winner!

After dinner we had the chance to watch a gripping documentary about the discovery of the Endurance ship wreak, which sunk in the Weddell Sea over one hundred years ago on Shackleton’s famous disastrous expedition to cross the Antarctic continent. Popcorn was included!

Just before the morning announcement was made by Sara, we could hear some ice scraping alongside the bow of Ortelius. When we got on deck, we had arrived in the most beautiful environment we could wish for. A beautiful sunrise greeted us when we were approaching the Fish Islands. Although the decks were slippery a lot of us were out to feel the real Antarctica. We saw humpback whales next to the ship with their blows misty in the sun's glow. An amazing first morning surrounded by white, snowy mountains. We all went for breakfast and were eager to get out in the Zodiacs.

But first, it was Tiler’s turn to give his lecture on the Aurora Australis, also known as the Southern Lights. He explained how it is a natural light display in the Earth's southern hemisphere, primarily visible in high-latitude regions near the South Pole. It occurs when charged particles from the sun interact with the Earth's magnetic field, exciting gases in the atmosphere, which then release light. The phenomenon typically produces green, red, and purple hues, and is most visible during the winter months in places like Antarctica and southern parts of Australia and New Zealand. Because fewer people live in the Aurora Oval in the south, fewer people have seen it, compared to the Aurora Borealis in the north. 2025 is one of the years where the activity is the highest and a bigger outburst of particles was predicted for tonight and the following 2 nights, so we could potentially see it tonight, if the weather would allow us to see it.

After his lecture ended, we heard Sara’s voice over the intercom saying that we had to make ourselves ready as the conditions looked perfect and we would all go out for a Zodiac cruise before lunch. Cruising in a Zodiac along the Fish Islands was an incredible experience, offering an amazing overview of Antarctica’s remote and pristine coastline. The small boats allowed us to navigate through narrow channels of brash ice and offered our first up-close encounters with wildlife, including Adelie penguins, a Weddell seal and several Crabeater seals, all resting on ice flows. Getting off Ortelius for the first time was an exciting and truly great experience. The raw beauty of the environment was awe-inspiring, as we glided silently through the icy waters, being able to observe everything so close. It was like we entered a David Attenborough documentary.

Getting back on board we warmed up and enjoyed lunch, before we headed out again in the afternoon. In combination with another Zodiac cruise, we were able to set foot on the Antarctic continent at Prospect Point. Prospect Point is a historic site, known for its breathtaking views of glaciers and snow-capped mountains. At this point, visitors can see remnants of the former British hut used during early expeditions. The hut, built in the early 1900s, was part of a scientific outpost and now serves as a symbol of early human exploration in the harshest conditions on Earth. During the cruise we saw our first leopard seal on ice and again several crabeaters. Big icebergs and a gloomy dark sky with the sun behind it casting the rays through it. It was again a magical afternoon.

That night, around 23:30, we were woken up by Sara, our expedition leader, with the thrilling news that we would soon cross the Antarctic Circle. Around 25 of us made our way to the bridge, eagerly watching the GPS display as we crossed the 66°33′S latitude, marking a significant milestone in our journey into the heart of Antarctica.

In the middle of the night at 12:30, we crossed the Polar Circle. Sara announced over the PA system that we crossed 66° 33 47.5’. Many of us got up to celebrate, while some of us hadn’t been asleep yet. It was dark so we couldn’t see much, but an imaginary bump was there, and it made us feel excited for the journey ahead.

It was a beautiful start to the day with wind and mountains all around us. We began transiting towards The Gullet shortly after breakfast. This narrow passage connects the Southern and Northern parts of the peninsula; however, it is often full of ice so navigation through is often difficult or impossible. As we transited through, we saw many Crabeaters, Fur and Leopard seals on ice floes, the wind was whipping off the mountains and lenticular clouds loomed heavily over the tops of the mountains.

We successfully made it through the passage and transited towards Pourquoi-Pas island also known as ‘Why not’ island and named by the French explorer Charcot. The Expedition Team found a spot to do a landing, and we all managed to get off the ship. We had a fantastic landing full of wildlife; Adelie penguins, Weddell seals, Fur seals; and the most incredible backdrop of mountains in the background. It felt so good to properly stretch our legs and to breathe in the fresh crisp air. Once we got back on the ship we heard the plans for tomorrow from Sara. During dinner the sun demonstrated its beauty once again as the sky turned pink and orange, we all just wanted to be outside soaking in the last rays. To top the day off, the Aurora Australis appeared at 21:00!!

The KP Index was predicted at 6 and there was a geomagnetic storm so we knew that it was highly likely we’d see the Aurora tonight. And wow, did we!

The sky was covered in pink and green lights dancing around, awe-inspiring, none of us could believe what we were seeing. Some of us stayed up until midnight until our eyes could no longer stay open and our hands no longer worked from the cold.

Today many of us woke up early to watch the sunrise. This is a rare thing to see in the Antarctic season for visitors as normally in peak summer the sun does not rise or set but remains a constant companion. But we were very much in Antarctica’s autumn and thus we could see a beautiful pink sky reflected over a silky ocean. The scenery around us was stunning: we were in a great position, anchored next to Stonington Island.

The Zodiacs practically glided across the flat sea as we made our way to the landing site. The snow on the ground was deep and we had to stick to the marked routes to avoid falling up to our chests. If we followed the trail to the left, we could visit the US hut where Gary was waiting to dust off the snow from our boots and show us around. Next to the hut a small crowd gathered to observe some Humpback whales that were resting at the surface of the water just off the shore.

If we turned right on the route, we headed towards the UK hut which we could explore with Allan. He told us about life at the base and the sled dogs that once lived there. We could also walk up to a brilliant viewpoint where we could see seals resting on the snow, penguins porpoising in the water, and look down at the buildings that held such historical significance.

During lunch we transited to Red Rock Ridge, named so because of its geological features. This is a breeding site for Adelie penguins and we were excited to see them. The change in weather was a classic example of how wild Antarctica can be. It was a very long and bouncy shuttle to the shore, and when we arrived, we got blasted by gusts of wind and snow. It was amazing to see the penguins going about their business in what we would consider extreme weather. They didn’t mind being covered in snow as they lay resting on the ground, their bodies perfectly adapted for the cold. We watched them interacting with each other, bowing their heads, erecting their head feathers, and widening their eyes as they bickered with others. They are certainly the most expressive of the Antarctic penguin species. We could also see some Antarctic Fur seals and a Weddell seal lounging on the rocks.

We stayed for as long as we could in the icy wind before heading back to the ship. Here we could warm up and rest after another action packed day.

Today we were heading south, having a day at sea, while we were rounding Charcot Island on our way to reach the Wilkins Ice Shelf. Last night we had some big waves lifting us from our beds again, but as the ship made its way through the frigid waters the waves seemed to get longer and therefore provoked less movement of the ship. The landscape of icy seas and some big icebergs is addictive to look at from the bridge, even on a grey day like today. Occasionally we had some glimpses of sea birds like Cape Petrels, Blue Petrels and an Antarctic Petrel, a sea bird we don’t see that often when we stay up in the Gerlache region. An impressive sighting.

Our first lecture began after our breakfast, promptly at 09:15, with Tom inviting everyone to the bar for his fascinating presentation titled “Ice Sheets and Climate Change.” His talk delved into the science behind ice sheets, explaining how they play a pivotal role in regulating the Earth’s climate. Tom highlighted the urgent impact of climate change on the polar regions, emphasizing how the melting ice sheets contribute to rising sea levels and alter global weather patterns. He also gave a little insight into the fieldwork the Dutch do from their small base on Rothera Station: how they work on the Wilkins Ice shelf to get information about the melting process of the ice shelf.

At 11:30, we were treated to a lecture from Gary about Adelie penguins. His invitation to his lecture with the call of an Adelie penguin already set the scene for his passion for these charming and resilient creatures. It was evident as he spoke about their unique behaviours, breeding patterns, and the challenges they face in the harsh Antarctic environment that Gary really loved the subject. His insights, through several scientific researches he did in Antarctica, on the importance of Adelie penguins in the ecosystem gave us a deeper appreciation for these little birds as we sailed ever closer to their icy home. We couldn't help but think of them as the tiny, determined survivors in this frigid world.

After lunch, at 14:00, Valeria offered an entirely different kind of session. She introduced us to the world of image editing in Lightroom. As many of us were capturing the incredible landscapes around us, Valeria’s tips on enhancing photos with professional editing techniques were incredibly useful. Her practical advice helped us improve our photography skills and gave us a new perspective on how to capture the beauty surrounding us, whether it was the way the light played on ice or the vibrant colours in the sky.

At 16:15, Allan captivated the group with his lecture titled “Sledge Dogs – The Unsung Heroes of Antarctic Exploration.” His talk focused on the critical role that sled dogs played in early Antarctic expeditions, often underappreciated but crucial for survival in extreme conditions. His deep knowledge of the history and contributions of these dogs was both moving and informative, shedding light on their vital role in polar exploration.

Finally, after a fulfilling day of learning, and yet enjoying another amazing three-course meal prepared by Chef Heinz and his gally team, we relaxed with a screening of the animated musical comedy “Happy Feet Part 1”. The charming film, centered around a young penguin with a passion for tap dancing, was a light-hearted end to a day that had been full of both intellectual stimulation and a deeper connection to the world of Antarctica. It was actually one of our guides, Gary, who had shared behaviour details with the producer of the movie before they made it. To make it as true as it could get. When we now listened to Gary’s stories about his time shared on the ice with the Adelie’s and Emperor penguins, we agreed that the characters in the movie do represent the individual penguins perfectly. It was a great way to wind down after a day of lectures and reflection on today.

The day had started with hope and excitement, as we woke up with the goal of reaching the Wilkins Ice Shelf. We had already made it to our most southerly point at 71°19′37″S, and the closer we got to the ice shelf, the more our anticipation grew.

As we approached, we found ourselves facing a wall of ice stretching before us, and as we looked left and right, we saw more of the same. It was as if we were surrounded by an endless fortress of ice.

The Wilkins Ice Shelf, a vast and rectangular expanse measuring about 80 nautical miles (150 km) long and 60 nautical miles (110 km) wide, filled the central part of Wilkins Sound. The sight was breathtaking. We all felt incredibly small in the shadow of this massive, frozen landscape. First observed by Hubert Wilkins from the air in 1929, the ice shelf had remained a distant and elusive feature, but today, we were right there, standing on the bow of the ship, taking it all in.

Captain Per gave us a wonderful view of the ice shelf, and we couldn’t help but marvel at the incredible sight before us. After a few photos together, we reluctantly began our transit away from the ice shelf, still in search of wildlife to observe. Soon, we spotted a patch of sea ice in the distance and decided to move closer. As we approached, we began to see seals lounging on the ice floes. But what really made our day was the unexpected sight of an Emperor Penguin perched on an iceberg. We slowly moved towards it, careful not to disturb the serene beauty of the moment, and we were rewarded with a magnificent view of the Emperor Penguin as snowflakes gently began to fall around us.

After lunch, the Expedition Team dropped the Zodiacs, and we couldn’t wait to gear up and get in. The moment we boarded the Zodiacs, two Emperor Penguins swam up to us, their curiosity was obvious as they circled our boats. We were all in disbelief, watching these majestic creatures glide gracefully in the water so close to us. But the surprises didn’t end there. Moments later, two Minke Whales appeared, swimming alongside the zodiacs, just as intrigued by us as we were by them. The beauty of the scene was overwhelming: majestic icebergs surrounded us, and the sea was dotted with hundreds of Crabeater seals, some swimming, some resting on the ice. It was a spectacle like no other, and we didn’t know where to look first.

As we marvelled at the Crabeater seals, a fully grown Leopard seal emerged, its sleek body cutting through the water with ease. It seemed to be just as curious as the rest of the animals, spying on two Crabeater seals with a focused gaze. The two seals hissed at the Leopard in warning, but it only intrigued the predator more. The Leopard seal swam back and forth under our Zodiacs, circling us in a mesmerizing pattern, its eyes never leaving us.

After two and a half hours, the cold began to creep in, and we made our way back to the ship. A hot shower was a welcome relief, and soon we gathered for a recap of the day. To our delight, the staff had prepared a glass of bubbly champagne to celebrate the incredible experiences we’d had. We raised our glasses in a toast to the unforgettable wildlife sightings, the stunning ice shelf, and the memories that would stay with us forever. It had truly been a day to remember.

We began our morning at sea with a lecture by Enric all about the geology of Antarctica, you could say it rocked! Many of us spent time on the bridge this morning looking at fantastic towering icebergs and searching for wildlife. There were many Cape petrels and Southern fulmars shooting across the bow and we could see some Fin whales and Humpback whales blowing in the distance.

Everyone was very intrigued to watch Gary’s lecture about the life cycle of the Emperor penguins and hear more about his time studying them when he overwintered at Mawson Base. We couldn’t help but giggle when he impersonated the calls of the penguins with such accuracy.

After a buffet lunch we continued to watch the seascape that Ortelius was gliding through. Our guest lecturer Tyler gave a brilliant talk called ‘Seeking Southern Skies’ where he told us about the star constellations in the Southern Hemisphere.

We had planned to reach Lazarev Bay in the afternoon for a Zodiac cruise, however during the night before we stumbled upon a lot of ice which slowed our progress. So instead, we had a wonderful scenic ship cruise as we approached the bay. In the late afternoon we arrived at Lazarev Bay. No one was really prepared for what we saw there. The landscape was surreal. Enormous icebergs grounded all around us. The ice and the mountains in the distance encircled us and we could see Crabeater seals, Weddell seals, and Leopard seals resting on the remaining sea ice floes.

We heard an announcement on the PA system to tell us that there was a treat waiting for us on the deck behind the bridge. The expedition team had hot chocolate and rum with cream to give us a warm fuzzy feeling inside as we tried to take in our unbelievable surroundings.

The recap was kept to the minimal plans for tomorrow so we could maximize our time outside. The sun went down, and we absorbed the last light hitting the ice before heading for dinner.

Having anchored in Lazarev Bay, we woke up surrounded by icebergs again. Only this time the weather completely changed the landscape. Yesterday’s sunshine had been swapped for thick snow and fog and we could no longer see many of the icebergs near us let alone the mountains in the distance. So, we waited a little while for a better time to begin our operations.

Conditions improved and we decided to drop the Zodiacs. It was snowy and cold to begin with but about halfway through our cruise, the sun started to shine again. It was exciting to weave through the ice alongside Ortelius as the Captain sailed out of the bay, following our track from the evening before.

Many of the Zodiacs were visited by curious Crabeater seals. Gangs of them were spy-hopping at us, lifting their heads out of the water to observe and investigate us. Some boats even saw a Leopard seal, but it didn’t stay for long before slinking into the ocean.

Snow petrels and Wilson’s storm petrels were flying around us as we marvelled at the arches in the ice.

We dragged ourselves away from the Icy world to warm our toes up and have lunch. Julie then gave us a talk about her work on the Europa Clipper Spacecraft mission. During the afternoon, the views outside were wonderful. The sunshine drew everyone out on deck as we left Lazarev Bay.

Saskia gave us a great lecture about the story of the Lost Men, the often-forgotten side expedition team of Shackleton’s Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. As we were drawn into the story more and more, we were interrupted by an announcement. We found ourselves suddenly surrounded by Humpback whales! Saskia paused her lecture so that we could go outside and watch a spectacle unfold. Many groups of whales were lunge feeding around us. Opening their huge mouths and stretching their muscular throats as they lunged at the krill, invisible to us just under the water's surface.

We saw many of the whales fluke, a behaviour typical of humpback whales, where they lift their tail up out of the water before a dive. We snapped many pictures of the whales’ tails which we would later upload to Happy Whale, a marine mammal photo catalogue that could tell us if these whales had been seen before.

After this amazing encounter, people were very keen to hear the end of Saskia’s talk and find out the fate of the expedition, so we returned to the bar.

We were very excited to have finally had some really amazing whale encounters and to have seen such beautiful land and seascapes throughout the day.

The day had begun with the usual wake-up call by Sara at 07:45. By 08:00, the breakfast buffet was laid out with the usual eggs, sausages, fruit and delicious pastries. Afterwards Sara invited everyone to the Bar for a presentation about Women in Antarctica. The room was filled with curious faces as Sara shared inspiring stories and facts about the women who had made their mark in the icy expanse. Shortly afterward the Expedition Team spotted Humpback Whale blows in the distance. As the ship neared closer we realised there were several of them. The sunlight glistened as they expelled, it was beautiful to watch. At one point they came very close to the ship and swam parallel to us and we watched in amazement as all three surfaced at once, the beautiful white of their blow shining dramatically.

Valeria was waiting at the Bar to help with any camera or editing questions. Those interested in learning more about photography or video techniques gathered around her, eager to get some expert advice.

Jess finished off the lecture programme for this morning with a fascinating lecture on the importance of whales in the ocean ecosystem. The room had been captivated as she explained how these magnificent creatures played a vital role in the health of the seas.

Around 12:30, it was time for a buffet lunch. We spent the afternoon enjoying the beautiful sunshine from the bridge or from the outside decks. From a distance we could see Renaud Island and huge icebergs anchored close to the island. Later in the afternoon Allan delivered a lecture about Admiral Byrd’s Antarctic Snow Cruiser. His stories about the curious case of the vehicle had everyone talking.

By 18:15, the Expedition Staff had met in the Bar for a recap, discussing the day’s events and preparing for the adventures that lay ahead.

The day ended with a hearty dinner, we all felt like our waistlines were slightly larger than they were when joining the ship. Lastly, after dinner we watched as the sun set across the horizon illuminating the skies with its orange tones while Cape Petrels glided at the bow and the occasional icebergs towered in the distance.

We awoke to yet another spectacular soft pink sunrise. The mountainous landscape stunned us as we positioned ourselves next to Petermann Island.

The expedition team set out a big route for us to stretch our legs and enjoy the sunshine. There were multiple beautiful viewpoints we could stop at to enjoy. The Gentoo penguins were charming and the chunky Snowy sheathbills entertained us as they tried to peck at our belongings on the tarpaulin. We also watched Giant petrels soar over our heads and we could see humpback whales surfacing in the channel. Petermann Island has a lot of historic significance because of its association with Charcot’s expedition on the Pourquoi Pas vessel and if you look closely at the tide line on a rock near the landing site you can see the letters ‘PP’ etched into the rock.

Over lunch we had a spectacular transit to Port Charcot, gliding past huge turquoise blue icebergs. We could see the reflections of the surrounding mountains in the still water. When we arrived at Port Charcot we lowered the Zodiacs onto a large area of grease ice which was forming on the surface of the ocean, the very beginnings of the sea ice arriving for the winter. It was exciting to carve our way through the grease ice as we made our way to the shoreline, and on route we could see Gentoo penguins porpoising. The water was so calm we could see them under the water too, completely transformed from their clumsy cute land version of themselves into graceful bullets in the water.

We had two options when we landed: we could head to the right and visit Gary, who spotted two chinstrap penguins, a new species of penguin for our list, or head to the left via a steeper walk up to the cairn, a beautiful viewpoint. Port Charcot was the overwintering site of the French Antarctic Expedition, 1903-1905 onboard the Français under the command of Jean-Baptiste Charcot. Remains from the expedition are still visible in the form of a cairn with a wooden pillar and the stone built magnetic hut. Saskia and Allan were waiting for us at the hut to give us more information.

After two brilliant landings we were feeling energised. After our daily recap the hotel department gave us a real treat. Waiting for us on the helideck was a BBQ dinner! The weather was perfect, and the sun was setting over the icebergs as we tucked into our dinner wearing all our outdoor gear. Everyone was so happy that it didn’t take long for the dancing to start, and in Charlotte's safe DJ hands, we danced as the stars came out and the Milky Way shone down on us.

Yet another beautiful morning was waiting for us after breakfast as the sun started to rise. Pastel colours of blues, pinks and oranges started to appear in the sky and reflect on the water.

The Expedition Team waited for us ashore along with 100 juvenile Gentoo penguins, freshly moulted they were at the water’s edge waiting for something – maybe to venture off into the ocean when they felt ready. Fresh snow had recently fallen, so Danco looked especially beautiful with white fluffy snowflakes sprinkled over the island.

There was an Elephant seal on the beach lazily looking at us as we walked past, slowly it made its way to the water and half laid in the water until eventually he swam off for some peace and quiet. We slowly started to make our way up the hill and although it was hard work getting to the top, the view at the top was absolutely spectacular. We had a 360 ° view of the bay, Errera Channel and Cuverville Island to the West. Quite a few Gentoos sat at the top of the hill one was even carrying stones and putting them on the nest!

After lunch we all boarded the Zodiacs at 14:30 and “in buddies”, we each went out on our own adventure. The conditions were an absolute perfection with glassy seas and clear skies. Each of us had fantastic whale encounters whether they were breaching 30 times, spy hopping next to the Zodiac or logging at the surface we all felt so lucky for this incredible afternoon and for our last activity in Antarctica. The orange light started to fill the sky as the sun started to set and it illuminated its orange rays on the whites of the mountains, it was breathtaking. The day ended with a delicious dinner and we all chatted with smiles in our hearts about how lucky we had been.

The day began with a hearty breakfast buffet. The atmosphere was relaxed, with everyone eagerly chatting about the upcoming lectures. After breakfast, Julie Rathbun took the stage in the Bar for her fascinating lecture on "Why Planetary Scientists Love Antarctica." The room was filled with curiosity as she shared her insights into the frozen continent's unique geological features and how they relate to planetary exploration. The audience listened intently, captivated by her passion for both Antarctica and space.

Later in the morning, Charlotte invited everyone back to the Bar for her own presentation, this time about feeding whales. She spoke about the incredible mechanisms behind how these magnificent creatures sustain themselves in the harsh Antarctic waters. The lecture was both informative and awe-inspiring, leaving the audience with a deeper appreciation for the wonders of the natural world. At noon, guests were called to the Lecture Room to return their muck boots, rental clothing, red waterproof bags, and Zodiac lifejackets. It was a reminder that the time for adventure was drawing closer, and preparations for the upcoming excursions were underway.

A buffet lunch followed, offering guests a chance to recharge and socialize before the afternoon's presentations. The Restaurant buzzed with conversation, laughter, and the clinking of glasses as everyone relaxed and enjoyed the delicious spread.

In the afternoon, Gary took the floor in the Bar to share his incredible story about overwintering at an Australian Antarctic Station. His firsthand account of life in one of the most remote places on Earth fascinated the audience. Gary's experiences and tales of survival in the extreme cold captivated everyone, sparking lively discussions and a renewed sense of excitement for the journey ahead. As evening approached, the Expedition Staff gathered everyone in the Bar for a recap session. Important details about disembarkation, settling accounts, and other logistics were shared. It was an essential meeting, and the staff encouraged at least one person from each group to attend, ensuring that everyone was well-informed about the next steps of the adventure.

The final day of the voyage began with a wake-up call, gently ushering everyone into the morning. After a peaceful night, everyone sleepily went to the dining room for breakfast.

Once breakfast was over, we were invited to settle our accounts at Reception. It was a quick, but necessary task to ensure everything was in order before the day came to a close.

Following breakfast, the Expedition Team gathered everyone for a series of lectures to conclude the voyage. Shortly afterward we had a brief, but exciting, sighting of Long-finned Pilot whales and Peale’s dolphins, this helped draw everyone out on deck for a few minutes.

Later in the morning, Captain Per welcomed guests to the Bar for an engaging Question-and-Answer session with us. The Captain spoke candidly about the voyage, sharing behind-the-scenes stories, challenges, and triumphs and answered any questions we had.

Mid-afternoon we approached Cape Horn, we could just about make out the iconic lighthouse and the Albatross sculpture which stands as a tribute to the sailors who have passed through this perilous passage. The majestic bird, carved in stone, spreads its wings in a symbolic gesture of freedom, representing the enduring spirit of those who have braved these turbulent seas. Sara said a few poignant words over the PA system which together with the sight of the lighthouse and sculpture helped evoke a deep sense of history and the harsh, yet beautiful, nature of the Cape.

Just as our final afternoon cake of the voyage was being served, Sara took the stage in the Bar to present Oceanwide’s other destinations. She spoke about the incredible range of adventures offered by the company, inspiring guests to consider future travels and explore even more of the world’s wildest places. Just when we thought there could be no further little surprises from the Expedition Team, they welcomed us out on deck for a rum infused hot chocolate, as we took in the magnificent views of the tip of South America.

As evening approached, the Expedition Staff invited everyone back to the Bar for the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails. It was a bittersweet gathering, as everyone celebrated the memories of the voyage while preparing to say goodbye. A slideshow of the voyage was shown by Valeria, filled with stunning photos and moments captured during the trip. It was a beautiful reminder of all the extraordinary sights and experiences they had shared. Dinner that evening was served in the Restaurant, marking the final meal of the journey. There was a sense of camaraderie as we dined together, exchanging stories and memories from the trip.

The time had come for all of us to say our goodbyes and to leave the ship. The ship now had to head North all the way to Vlissingen, Netherlands to prepare for the Arctic season. After filling up on our last free meal we disembarked the beautiful Ortelius at 08:30. Tears were shed as we said goodbye to the staff, they embraced us with their hugs, and we felt such a close bond with them it was hard to say goodbye. They had already put our suitcases on the dock, so we all grabbed our bags and off we went either onto the next adventure or for a flight back home.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 2810 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 71°19.37’S / 075°53.33W.

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Oleksandr Lyebyedyev and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure and a privilege travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team.