PLA20-24, trip log, Falkland Islands - South Georgia - Antarctica

Today is the day! It is finally time for us to embark upon our epic adventure! In the late afternoon we arrived at our ship, Plancius, our new home for the next twenty days. It had been a long journey for most of us, so we were glad of the warm welcome provided by the Staff. The day was cloudless, warm and a good omen for the three weeks ahead of us.

Puerto Madryn was good to us, some of us spending a few days exploring the area, birdwatching or simply enjoying the last opportunity for a warm embrace from the sun before the frigid weather ahead of us.

We all made it in good time onto the dock, after a warm goodbye from the local army personnel and the sweet dogs we set foot on Plancius where we slowly departed under a gorgeous setting sun.

We had to go through the mandatory emergency drill before being treated to some snacks and a customer glass of bubble after meeting our captain and the expedition team for a toast to a successful voyage.

The evening was spent meeting our co travelers, new room mates and crew members with whom we will form a new happy family throughout the trip.

After a first well-deserved sleep on board Plancius we got spoiled with very calm waters and a beautiful sunrise. The early birdwatchers and photographers managed to spot a long list of pelagic birds and several whale species along with the odd South American sea lions. The numerous Sei whales and their blows as far as the eye could see made us long and dream for many more whale sightings further along the trip.

Numbers of binoculars and cameras started to line up more and more as we enjoy a flat sea, a warm South-Atlantic Sea breeze while we started losing sight of the Argentinian coastline.

The long sleepers got to be woken up by our EL’s first wake-up call on the ship’s announcement system, informing everyone breakfast was being served!

In the morning, in the observation lounge, Ali enlightened us all about her 15 year long stay in the Falklands, showing how life on these remote islands is, and why we should pay a visit there.

Later that morning, Yves told us all about the basics of photography, and how to set your camera for this trip. Of course, it didn’t take long before more Sei whales turned up during Yves’ lecture, we all took this opportunity to go outside for a short break with a show.

The warm sun and mild breeze outside made it very comfortable out on deck, while more bird species were added to the list, especially numbers of albatrosses, Cape petrels, prions,… started to rise, making it clear we were getting further and further from land.

After our first lunch -oh boy what a choice at the buffet!- our marine biologist Chloe gave a beautiful presentation about the whale species we had seen so far and other species we still hope to expect and see.

Time flew by on this amazing sunny day and new connections were being made throughout the day, curious about all our new shipmates on this adventure.

Unfortunately, a regrettable emergency on board forced us to change course and head for Comodoro Rivadavia, an Argentinian coastal city, for a small detour on our way to the Falkland Islands.

Will introduced us to the unique political situation of the Falkland’s and gave us a better understanding on the history and problems these remote islands have known in the past.

In the restaurant we enjoyed our served dinner prepared by the amazing kitchen staff, before we had the opportunity to witness a beautiful sunset, sailing towards the west for the night. A lot of sun and calm sea on our first expedition day!

We awoke to beautiful sunny weather and calm seas as Plancius made her way towards the Argentine coast. Our unscheduled next port of call would be the coastal city of Comodoro Rivadavia, which hosted the most available and closest medical facilities for the emergency situation on board. This small detour allowed opportunities for more wildlife spotting and to get a glimpse of a part of Argentina that most of us had never laid eyes upon. After successfully transferring our guest from the ship to shore with the assistance of Plancius staff and local Argentine authorities, we headed back on course.

The birdwatchers were out in full force, however due to the calm conditions, there were not many albatrosses around as these birds love gliding with the wind. Some more cetaceans were spotted nevertheless, including Peale’s dolphins, more sei whales and a few southern right whales.

Another delicious lunch was served, and then we met with Ali in the main lounge to hear about our updated plans for the next few days. Chloe then gave us a talk about seals of the Southern Ocean which gave us lots of information about the species we may encounter on our trip and a bit about their biology and behavior. She explained the main difference between ‘true’ and ‘eared’ seals.

After some tea and cake, we were joined by Allan who gave us a very interesting talk about life in the Falkland Islands. As a fifth generation Falkland Islander, Allan has an immense passion for his island home. He spoke fondly of the time him and his wife lived on the remote West Point Island where they became masters of all trades- plumbers, electricians, butchers and more, as their remote living situation meant you had to learn to fix things yourself. We learnt about the Falkland Island local produce such as diddle dee jam and the signature ‘365’ dish- a plate of mutton for every day of the year. Hearing about all these stories made us all the more excited for our visit in the days ahead.

Ali gave us a quick briefing of our next days plans, followed by a short recap by Gabi and Steffi about albatrosses in the literature and southern right whales respectively.

Dinner was served, and dessert interrupted by a pod of playful Peale’s dolphins alongside the Plancius in the gorgeous South Atlantic sunset.

Our third day at sea dawned with light winds and a moderate sea that gave Plancius a gentle motion as she continued to make good progress towards the Falkland Islands. Expedition Leader Ali did a wake-up call at 07:45, which was followed by another delicious buffet breakfast at 08:00. Many of us had been up and about for quite some time, especially the keen birdwatchers who had occupied the bow since first light.

The first lecture of the morning was by our illustrious leader Ali who gave a fantastic presentation on penguins. All the species we hoped to see during the voyage were well covered, with fantastic images to help us gain a good appreciation for these charismatic creatures ahead of our first encounter with them. Later in the morning, the expedition team gave a mini lecture medley, covering a variety of fascinating subjects.

In the latter part of the morning Plancius started to move around more than we had been used to so far in the voyage. We had been blessed with fantastic conditions since leaving Puerto Madryn, but now the ‘Roaring Forties’ were about to show their true colours. A change of direction and an increase in wind speed had been forecasted for the afternoon, so it came as no surprise. A small queue formed outside the hospital as guests went in search of seasick medication, and there were some empty seats in the restaurant during lunch.

Conditions slowly deteriorated as the afternoon wore on, and the decision was made to bring forward the issuing of Muck boots before the worst of the weather arrived. Deck by deck guests were called to the boot room on deck 3 to collect their new best friends. The Muck boots would be needed for every landing on the voyage, except Stanley, the Falklands capital. With that job done, many retired for some horizontal time in their bunk.

At 16:30 Falkland Islander Allan gave an overview of the war that took place in the Islands in 1982. This nasty conflict may have been brief with only 74 days of Argentine occupation, but it cost the lives of almost a thousand service personnel between the two sides. It was interesting to be reminded about the massive Task Force that Britain dispatched to re-take the Falklands, and how British forces successfully conducted the operation.

By early evening the sea state was such that the outer decks had to be closed. Plancius was now taking water over the bow and rolling quite heavily. But she was riding the rough seas very well. At 18:15 Expedition Leader Ali asked us to meet her in the Observation Lounge for a briefing on the next day’s activities in the Falklands, and a mandatory Zodiac safety briefing. It was a pleasant surprise to see that most guests could make it to the briefing. Perhaps it was the excitement of landing in the Falklands tomorrow.

The day ended with another amazing plated dinner, prepared and served by the World’s greatest ship-based Hotel Department. Despite some of them also feeling the effects of the rough weather, service was conducted with the usual cheerful manner that we had come to enjoy. For the majority of us, it was not a late night. Plancius slowly rocked us to sleep as the Falklands drew ever closer.

Land ahoy! From first light there was land visible on the horizon ahead and off our port side. At last, we were making our final approach to the Falkland Islands. New Island, our destination for the day, grew larger and larger ahead of the ship, and by the time Ali did the wake-up call, it was visible out of every window and porthole on the starboard side. There was great excitement at the prospect of finally setting foot in these remote and magical islands.

New Island is located in the far west of the Falklands archipelago, with the next land to the west being Argentina, less than 400 miles (644km) away. Traditionally the island was a sheep farm where one or two families lived a very remote lifestyle that was dominated by hard work. In the early 1900’s a whaling station was established there, but it was not a great success due to a lack of whales in the region, and the station was dismantled so the materials could be used to build a station on South Georgia.

Today New Island is a nature reserve, owned by locally based Falklands Conservation. Their wardens - Tim and Jenni - were there to meet us as we went ashore. The landing was on a small sandy beach in a sheltered corner of the bay near the settlement. Beached near our landing site was the wreck of Protector III, a former British minesweeper that was used as a work boat by a former owner of New Island.

We hiked up a lush, green valley where countless Upland geese were seen with large clutches of small goslings. Birders were delighted to see so many of the normally elusive Ruddy-headed geese, and the spectacular Long-tailed meadowlark with its bright red breast. On the other side of the island, at the Settlement Rookery, the most spectacular sight awaited us. This was home for a large, mixed colony of Black-browed albatrosses, Rockhopper penguins and Imperial shags. The sight and sound was quite breath-taking, with a dramatic backdrop of sea cliffs. Many of the albatrosses were sitting on eggs, while the Rockhoppers were still at the copulation stage. The Imperial shags were busy gathering up nest building material.

As we enjoyed this remarkable place, an extra ripple of excitement slowly spread through our group. Warden Tim had spotted a lone Macaroni penguin some way down the cliff among the myriad of Rockhoppers. We soon learnt why this was such a special sighting…. Macaronis are extremely rare in the Falklands. The estimate is that no more than a hundred Macaronis form the Falklands population. They are a sub-antarctic species that prefers a colder environment, so South Georgia is their true stronghold where there numbers run in to millions. This Macaroni was not lost. It belongs in the Falklands. More than likely it will mate with a Rockhopper and produce some hybrid offspring.

Heading back towards the landing site, some of us took time to walk up to a ridge where the reward was a fantastic view. Near the landing site was a small museum where a few souvenirs could be bought. Many were delighted to see that a pair of Blackish cinclodes - locally known as Tussac birds - were nesting in a cavity in one of the museum’s outer walls. We bid farewell to Tim and Jenni, and took the Zodiacs back to Plancius. During lunch the ship re-positioned a short distance to the north, and anchored in North Harbour where a very different New Island experience awaited us.

It was very windy in North Harbour, but it didn’t stop us. The Zodiacs whisked us to shore for another landing on a sandy beach. Again, warden Tim was there to meet us. We hiked inland and up to a small saddle where we were greeted by our first Gentoo penguins of the voyage. In the valley beyond there were many more groups of Gentoos, which were mostly incubating eggs. Nearby was a small field station with a curious name - The Virgin Hotel - built by a former owner of New Island who had a fun sense of humour. From the first group of Gentoos, there were two options. One route took us down to a stunning sand beach where the Gentoos were coming out of the sea. And the other route went to a cliff edge where we could spend more time with Black-browed albatrosses and Rockhopper penguins. There was lots of time, and everyone got to hike between all locations.

It had been a bright afternoon, but late in the day it clouded over and became cold. Even a few drops of rain were felt, but thankfully they didn’t come to anything. We all made our way back to the landing site to catch a Zodiac ride back to Plancius. By 17:15, we had all bid farewell to lovely New Island and Plancius prepared to sail for the Falklands capital Stanley. After Ali’s evening briefing, she gave a fantastic overview of Albatross conservation in the Falklands, and explained how the local fishing industry had worked together to develop fishing procedures that reduced albatross mortality to almost zero. It was a true success story!

As the daylight started to fade, we were treated to a fantastic sunset. This coincided with our transit through a very narrow passage called ‘The Wooly Gut’. A “wooly” being a katabatic wind in Falklands slang. Passing though the narrow waterway we had the mainland of West Falkland on the starboard side, and West Point Island on the port side. The latter is where our Assistant Expedition Leader Allan had live for almost 5 years with his wife and dog. And so ends a fantastic day in the Falklands. Now we looked forward to visiting Port Stanley.

Second day in the Falklands! Today began with Ali’s friendly wake-up call as we arrived at Port Stanley. Gathered on deck, we watched the captain expertly navigate “the Narrows”, as the name suggests a quite narrow strait leading into the harbor, finally anchoring off the coast. Excitement buzzed among us as we prepared to explore the capital of the Falkland Islands. As we neared the jetty in our zodiacs, we were welcomed by a resident sea lion lounging on the pier, who lifted his head to give each arriving boat a slow, curious glance.

While we embarked, Hunter, the biosecurity dog, hopped aboard to inspect the vessel and ensure we were clear to continue our journey to South Georgia. Hunter is a seasoned eight-year-old pup who traveled from the Netherlands aboard a military plane to serve the South Georgia Heritage Trust and Government. His keen nose has been helping preserve these islands by keeping invasive species at bay.

Once ashore, our group split up to explore Port Stanley’s offerings. Some of us dove into the town’s rich history, strolling along the memorial to the Falklands War, marveling at remnants of the conflict, and visiting iconic landmarks like Christ Church Cathedral. This unique building, the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world, boasts a famous arch made of blue whale jawbones—a striking reminder of the region’s maritime heritage. Nearby, Saint Mary’s Church and the Falkland Islands Museum, brimming with artifacts and exhibits, offered deeper insights into the local culture and history.

Meanwhile, the bird enthusiasts in our group caught a taxi and headed to Gypsy Cove for a closer look at the region’s avian wonders. Awaiting them were the banded plovers, the rufous-chested dotterel, and the distinctive Magellanic snipe, each a testament to the Falklands' incredible biodiversity. Fun fact: the rufous-chested dotterel is known for its striking rusty-colored breast and migrates here seasonally, while the Magellanic snipe is prized among birders for its elusive nature and rapid, darting flight. The sighting of these birds added excitement for those keen on spotting rare species.

Elsewhere, the recent opening of a world-famous distillery caught the attention of several of us. The Falkland Islands Distillery is celebrated for its unique botanical gins, which use local kelp in their recipes, adding a distinctly coastal flavor. The clinking of gin bottles echoed in our return to the ship, a new memento of the Falklands to savor.

After a hearty lunch on board, we set off toward South Georgia, with an afternoon at sea awaiting us. Swells and winds soon rocked MV Plancius, creating a lively ride. This didn’t deter the hardiest among us, who braved the bow to watch soaring seabirds such as the black-browed albatross and giant petrels. Eventually, as waves grew stronger, the bridge team gently encouraged us indoors.

Our Expedition Leader Ali invited us to the lounge, where she captivated us with stories of her time on Sea Lion Island, a remote Falklands outpost, as the world shifted during the onset of COVID-19. Her tales painted a vivid picture of life isolated on the island, sharing both challenges and the beauty of her experiences.

Dinner brought a tranquil end to our day, with many of us gazing at the horizon and savoring the sunset’s reflection on the crashing waves. We celebrated a fellow traveler, Ashley’s, birthday with a cheerful rendition of "Happy Birthday" and later gathered in the lounge, editing photos, updating species lists, and sharing laughter over a few games before winding down for the night.

Our journey south continues, and with each day, the vastness and beauty of these remote islands leave us more entranced.

On this first day of our crossing to South Georgia the sea was agitated due to the aftermath of the storm ahead of us. The heavy swell lifted and rolled us from side to side but the movement was quite pleasant as we enjoyed a hearty breakfast for the calm day ahead.

Shortly after breakfast, Steffi gave us an inspiring talk about the birds we have encountered so far. From the tiny Storm Petrel to the wondering albatross, these birds are the masters of their environment, using the power of the wind to displace themselves and without which they are not able to take off due to their weight!

Later in the morning, after a slice of well-deserved cake and a breath of fresh air, Ali, gave us an introduction to the rich fauna and flora of South Georgia. Having lived there for a year, she served us an assortment of tales and stories, from the whaling period to the efforts to annihilate the rat population and the South Georgia reindeer.

Lunch as always was a treat and to digest Esther invited us to a talk about the Boss himself, Sir Ernest Shakleton part 1. Soon we hope to be able to pay our respects in person and have a toast to his memory.

Today was not only indoor activities but also outdoor! The bird show today was in town, and several new species were added to our ever-growing bird list. Among others a group of Atlantic petrels made an unexpected appearance as they usually forage more north. Later came along the beautiful Sooty Albatross with its soft plumage and half moon eye shadow. Today was a bird day we will all remember with delight!

In the evening was time for us to familiarize ourselves with South Georgia and the rules to follow when visiting its shores.

Tomorrow another day at sea to look forward to, before the Gift of South Georgia presents itself.

While most of us were still asleep, the staff did a sweep on the outer decks to check if any birds had landed on the ship at night. We are getting closer to the islands of South-Georgia, and we have to travel with closed curtains now during the dark hours. Luckily no bird had crashed, so we could start scouting with our binoculars on the rather rainy and wind-calm ocean today. The conditions meant there was not so much action around, and creeping in fog later that morning eventually blocked most of our view.

But that couldn’t turn down our joy, because we had our mandatory biosecurity check coming up today! After our mandatory introduction and South-Georgia biosecurity briefing, the guides took out the vacuum cleaners and brushes. Everyone did a great job cleaning their gear before being checked by the guides in the lounge, so cleaning went smooth!

After our lunch break, Esther continued her Sir Ernest Shackleton presentation, and presented her part 2 story, covering the incredible journey from Antarctica to South-Georgia.

In the meantime the weather improved and the fog cleared up. That meant the birdwatchers could scan far away again. Some good species were seen on this sea-day, with good numbers of Schlegelsturmvogel, some Grey-headed and Light Mantled albatrosses, our first close-up Snowy petrels, and some rare Great-winged petrels and a Kerguelen petrel. Several Humpback whales were also spotted from the lounge.

Two big tabular icebergs showed up on the radar so we decided to go and have a closer look with the ship and cruise in between them.

We are getting closer to South-Georgia fast now, and should see land tomorrow. Time to prepare for our visits and go over them during today’s recap! Ali and Steffi concluded with showing how big the wingspan really is of our seabirds, going from the 40 cm of a Wilson’s petrel, to the incredible 3m50 of a Wandering albatross.

With all the built up excitement to see South-Georgia finally, we ended this sea-day with a lovely dinner at the restaurant.

After our long days at sea, the view of snowcapped mountains was the sight we had all been patiently waiting for. Finally, we see land! Finally, we were in South Georgia.

Our first stop, Salisbury Plain. Salisbury Plain is home to as many as 60,000 breeding pairs of king penguins. Unfortunately, there was a bit too much swell on the beach to safely land the zodiacs- this is the reality of expedition cruising, and why we always have a Plan B, C, D (and sometimes Z). The Plancius hung by the coastline for a good half an hour or so, which gave us the chance to observe the countless wildlife from afar.

We could hear the call of the king penguins, the roars of the southern male elephant seals, and the cries of the newborn pups. With each gust of wind, wafts of penguin poop circulated our nostrils, and we definitely understood how smelly these dense areas of wildlife can be. Out on deck, some of us even had the pleasure of some snowy sheathbills landing on our heads! They were such cheeky birds, and very curious by nature. Our hats and jackets though would need a thorough biosecurity clean!

We had an early lunch, and then onto Plan B! Fortuna Bay, just around the corner, would offer a lot more protection from the swell, so we would try our chances of a landing there.

Luck was on our side and ashore we went! Upon arrival, we were greeted by king penguins and juvenile Antarctic fur seals playing in the shallows. They were so cute! Farther up the beach were the humungous elephant seal bulls, with their giant proboscis nose that resembles a trunk (hence their namesake). Also present were the freshly-fattened-up male Antarctic fur seals, patiently waiting for the females to arrive so they can start mating. The highlight of this landing however would be the walk to the large king penguin colony up in the valley, comprising approximately 125000 breeding pairs.

There was a sheer number of chicks too, their thick down of fluffy brown feathers almost camouflage in the terrain. King penguin colonies are occupied year-round, as they have an unusually long breeding and moulting period. They come ashore to moult before breeding, which takes about 30 days where they lose all their last season’s feathers and grow a nice new coat of waterproof plumage. The legend that penguin’s mate for life becomes debunked here. King penguins have about an 80% divorce rate, if one partner arrives at a different time to the other, they are not likely to wait, and instead find a new partner for that breeding season. They are however, described as ‘serial monogamists’, meaning they keep the same partner for a breeding cycle. They lay one egg between November and April, and like their emperor cousins, king penguins do not build a nest but incubate the eggs on their feet. Incubation lasts about 54 days, and it takes over a year for the chicks to fully fledge. This means that including the pre-moult period, the breeding cycle lasts 13–16 months! So, there is always a mixture of penguins to see: funny-looking moulters, brown and fluffy chicks, and crisp-coloured adults!

After an incredible few hours watching the innumerable amount of wildlife, back to the ship we went and off to a well-earned dinner. We had our first taste of South Georgia, and we couldn’t wait for more tomorrow!

After a quiet night at anchor in Fortuna Bay, Plancius got under way nice and early for our next destination. Ali woke us up at 5:30 just as the ship was entering Hercules Bay, a small cove with spectacular scenery, named after a whale catcher, that once sought shelter there. The plan was to do a pre-breakfast Zodiac cruise to see what wildlife we could find. Outside the sky was clear and the sea was calm, with the scenery looking spectacular in the early morning light.

We began boarding the Zodiacs at 06:00 and started our cruise on the sunny side of the bay. The first thing that caught our attention was the fascinating geology in the cliffs, where fantastic folding patterns were illuminated by the rising sun. Near the entrance of the bay a lone Chinstrap penguin was found on some rocks. Later a few more were found further in the bay. This was a very nice find, because the number of Chinstraps that breed on South Georgia is extremely small, with only a single colony at the south end of the island at Cooper Bay. The Chinstraps that breed on South Georgia are the most northerly in the World.

While cruising Hercules Bay in glorious conditions, the wildlife entertained us endlessly. Antarctic Fur Seals frolicked in the shallows, Antarctic Terns passed overhead, and South Georgia Shags prepared their nests for the coming breeding season. On a small beach at the head of the bay a waterfall trickled down to a beach where a harem of Southern Elephant Seals basked in the sun. A few King, Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins shared the beach with them.

There were a couple of fantastic wildlife highlights. A few Macaroni Penguins were spotted high up in the Tussac Grass, the first returnees of the season. Many more would come. Finding them was followed by a stunning overhead display by several Light-Mantled Sooty Albatrosses. It was a perfect way to conclude the Zodiac cruise. As we headed back to he ship the guides pointed out that we had seen all four of South Georgia’s breeding penguins. Thank you Hercules Bay!

During breakfast Plancius re-positioned a short distance around to Stromness Bay, where three whaling stations once operated - Husvik, Leith and Stromness. We anchored off the latter, which in later years with whaling in decline, became a ship repair and maintenance station. The Zodiacs took us ashore for a beach landing a safe distance from the collapsing station.

Many of us took the opportunity to hike up the valley following a river bed to the Shackleton Waterfall, made famous when the great many himself along with Frank Worsley and Tom Crean were forced to descend that ravine after their epic crossing of South Georgia in 1916. On the way to the waterfall there was the opportunity to hike up a small hill and view some Gentoo Penguins which were incubating eggs. The views from the hill were stunning. Those who didn’t hike inland were entertained on the beach by a large harem of Southern Elephant Seals and snorting male Antarctic Fur Seals.

Our afternoon destination was Grytviken (Pot Cove) Whaling Station, established in 1904 by Norwegian Captain Carl Anton Larsen as the first Antarctic shore-based whaling station. With the South Georgia Government administrative and scientific base around the bay at King Edward Point, one might say that this is the capital of South Georgia. Here the Government Officers came onboard to conduct a bio-security inspection and effect clearance procedures. Happily we passed with flying colours. It was another 100% pass for Plancius.

The Zodiacs whisked us ashore to a landing directly below the Whaler’s Cemetery where Sir Ernest Shackleton is buried. After paying tribute to “The Boss”, we walked around the shore and through the Whaling Station to find the Museum, Gift Shop, Post Office and Church. The Post Office in particular was a popular stop as postcards were mailed to destinations all over the World. Endemic South Georgia Pintails were by far the most numerous birds around Grytviken, which were a very rare sight in the days before rat eradication. The Zodiac transfer back to the ship was from a small beach near the Museum, alongside two whale catchers named Albatross and Diaz.

Plancius remained in the quiet anchorage at Grytviken because dinner tonight was a BBQ on deck. We were joined by 10 of the staff from ashore, who were particularly excited about having some salad. Those who dressed warmly and stayed out on deck enjoyed one of the best BBQ views in the World. But the cool air was too much for many, who preferred the comfort of the restaurant.

And so ended a long and exciting day in South Georgia. A day on which we had the privilege of visiting the final resting place of perhaps the greatest explorer and leader of men that ever lived - Sir Ernest Shackleton.

Our third day on South Georgia began with Ali and Steffi’s gentle wake-up call, easing us into the morning after a lively barbecue. But the Plancius had other plans—its swaying soon convinced us to adapt.

With St. Andrew’s Bay too turbulent for a safe landing, we turned toward the sheltered waters of Godthul. This “Good Hollow,” named by Norwegian whalers, provided a natural refuge, making it a valuable spot during South Georgia’s whaling days. Though no permanent stations existed here, Godthul served as a depot, with bones still scattered along the beach as reminders of that era.

Just as we adjusted our course, an unexpected thrill awaited: Orcas! Our first sighting of killer whales couldn’t have been more captivating. A large male, a female, and their calf surfaced and played near the boat, allowing us ample time to admire them. Captain expertly maneuvered the vessel, giving us an optimal view of these magnificent creatures.

Arriving at Godthul, we were met by rugged slopes of tussock grass and fur seals scattered along the hillsides. Most of us scrambled up to reach viewpoints, catching glimpses of gentoo penguin colonies nestled on the slopes. Some ventured further, hiking to a peak that rewarded us with sweeping views of the bay.

Adding to the experience was a South Georgia pipit—the island’s only native songbird and a conservation success story. This resilient bird was once nearly extinct due to invasive rats, but thanks to recent conservation efforts, it now thrives, treating us to a lively performance as if we were the only audience it needed.

In the afternoon, with favorable weather, we headed back to St. Andrew’s Bay. Our persistence paid off, and though we had to wade through the surf, those who braved the chilly waters were rewarded with an awe-inspiring sight: thousands of king penguins in a cacophony of calls, and enormous elephant seals sprawled along the shore, preparing for the breeding season. The sheer scale of life here was overwhelming—a vivid reminder of nature’s power to reclaim and thrive.

Reflecting back on board the Plancius, we felt grateful for the unexpected moments that make exploring South Georgia unforgettable.

When the weather is fair in South Georgia, you get up as early as you can and make the most of it because fair weather on South Georgia rarely lasts. For the past days we have indeed been blessed with unusually good weather, hardly any wind, and gentle swell and not a drop of rain was felt.

The dreaded wakeup called shakes us from our dreams at the ripe and early time of 5 am. We had arrived at Gold Harbour and made our way on deck to find the world covered in a shroud of fog. However, as we made our way in the bay this shroud vanished to give way to the intimate and secluded Gold Harbour. Our expedition team set off on the zodiacs after the anchor had been dropped and a few moments later we were called out to board the zodiacs and set foot for the last time on South Georgia.

It is hard for me to find the words to describe the day we had at Gold Harbour and I am sure you will find it hard too when telling the stories to your family and friends back home. The beach was thronged with seals of all sizes. The males battled for territory and females were busy avoiding the fighting giants and taking care of their newly born little ones. The smallest were only a few days old; one could notice from the dark fluff that covers their bodies. Others, a bit older, hauled on the beach waiting patiently for the return of their mothers were cuddling and curious to see us weird humans invading their beach.

The penguins, in the thousands, as always waiting for something we do not know about. Standing in the river, patrolling the beach making sure everything is in order. Their young, in their fluffy brown coats, running around, playing with the seals and simply being babies were a delight to witness.

An Elephant seal again kept us ashore a bit longer by blocking the way to the landing site but Yves made himself as scary as possible and could move the big boy to the side without disturbing his peace.

Later that morning , after a well deserved breakfast, we took the zodiacs out for a cruise at Cooper bay. The swell was in full force and its power impressive. We cruised along the shoreline to a small chinstrap penguin colony. Later we made our way around the rocky outcrop to a field of kelp where an inquisitive young leopard seal inspected our zodiacs and the passengers, probably his first human interaction. We kept on going along the shoreline towards some Macaroni penguins, one giving some us quite a show as he dived into the water from quite a height.

Later that day after lunch we did a ship cruise through the breath taking Drygalski fjord. The 14km long fjord offers amazing geological features and a great glacier waited for us at its end. We rested there for some time and enjoyed a warm drink on deck six provided by Bobby.

It was now time for us to bid farewell to the magical shores of South Georgia, brave the ocean and make our way to Antarctica our final destination before heading back towards Argentina.

After the intense South-Georgia days, most of us had a long sleep on this first sea-day again, direction Antarctica! It had been snowing quite a bit in the early morning, so decks were all covered with a white carpet. Our expedition crew were hard at work clearing the decks for us to enjoy the outdoors.

The early birdwatchers spotted a Southern bottlenose whale, and several Chinstrap penguins along with Antarctic prions.

Todays lectures were programmed, and we started with Steffi talking about Krill and the importance of it in the Antarctic ecosystem.

Meanwhile icebergs are stealing the show outside. Their size dwarfing our ship as they slide by in their destructive beauty.

Next on the lecture line-up was Will, with his Antarctic Geopolitics presentation, bringing us through the history of Antarctica, it’s exploration and it’s complex geopolitical situation.

After our lunch Chloe showed us everything about sea ice, since we will encounter this a lot during our visit to the frozen continent!

Our expedition leader Ali showed us the plans for the next day during her recap, and auctioneers Will and Esther then entertained us with the South Georgia Heritage Trust Auction in the lounge. The effort was tremendous and over two thousand pounds were raised to save the baby seals of South Georgia!

In the meantime, the amount of icebergs around the ship increased and during our dinner we got spoiled with great views of big tabular icebergs, big waves and dozens of Cape Petrels passing by close to our windows. Antarctica is another day closer!

Today would be another sea day and judging by the amount of us at breakfast that morning, many of us finally had our sea legs. The Plancius gently rolled through the swell, and many of us settled back into sea time- enjoying our books, processing our photos, playing chess and chatting over hot cups of tea and coffee.

We joined Allan in the main lounge for a talk on the history of whaling, and we learnt all about the sheer numbers of whales caught and how many species almost became extinct. It was a sad and brutal history, but luckily with the help of conservation efforts and new environmental policies, populations are slowly recovering.

Another delicious lunch was served, and we are always impressed by the restaurant teams’ ability to provide so much variety.

Gabi gave us an interesting talk about Edith Jackie Ronne, an American explorer and the first woman in the world to be a working member of an Antarctic expedition. Jackie was the expedition’s official communications expert, media liaison and historian. We learnt that Jackie’s passion and thirst for Antarctica saw her revisit the continent another fifteen times during her lifetime, and the Ronne–Filchner Ice Shelf in the Weddell Sea would later be named after her.

In the evening, we had our usual briefing and recap up in the lounge, where the staff went all out for Halloween. Esther as a frostbitten polar explorer, Yves as a skeleton, Chloe as a mermaid and the funniest of all, Gabi as Alex our hotel manager! At the end of the recap, we heard a low deep voice bellowing up the stairs into the main lounge, it was Ali, but dressed as an old salty whaler! We were all taken back to the early 1900s as she shared a handwritten poem about whaling in South Georgia, featuring the morbid and haunting past of both the whalemen and the giant creatures themselves. It was a very Antarctic ode to Halloween.

The staff in the restaurant went above and beyond. The dining room was covered in Halloween decorations, and the buffet consisted of ‘bloody fingers’, ‘eyeball pasta’ and chocolate graveyards and strawberry brains for dessert. It was a real treat to experience ‘real world’ celebrations whilst being so isolated. After our delicious feast, we were off to bed for another full day of activities ahead no doubt.

Conditions overnight had improved considerably, and Ali’s wake-up call delivered the good news that Plancius was once again making good speed towards Elephant Island. We were, of course, running behind schedule due to the bad weather of preceding days. Outside the sun shone through a thin veil of cloud, and the Southern Ocean looked much more friendly. Icebergs were a more frequent sighting, telling us that we were at last closing in on Antarctica.

After breakfast we were called deck by deck to the Observation Lounge with all our outer layers for another round of bio-security checks by the expedition team. This was to ensure that we were not transporting anything from South Georgia to Antarctica. Because of the excellent standards set by the entire group at South Georgia, most people presented spotless equipment which made the whole process quite painless and very quick.

At 11:00 expedition guide Will Kennedy gave a fantastic presentation on Tom Crean, one of the giants of the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration. Tom served on three major expeditions. He went south twice with Scott on the Discovery and Terra Nova expeditions, and once with Shackleton on the Endurance expedition. This modest, unassuming hero from rural Ireland is a true unsung hero, and Will told the story of his remarkable life with great passion and enthusiasm. It was clear after Will’s lecture that he had inspired several people to think about making a pilgrimage to Tom Crean’s home village of Annascaul in Ireland, where his pub - The South Pole Inn - is still trading.

We enjoyed another delicious lunch courtesy of Head Chef Bawa Gaurav and his team. Then a little bit of downtime allowed some of us to indulge in a seaborne siesta. The birders were happy to have the foredeck open again and were able to enjoy fantastic views of birds like Cape Petrels, Southern Fulmars, Black-browed Albatrosses, Giant Petrels and, to everyone’s delight, a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross.

At 15:00 the lecture program continued with simultaneous presentations. For English speaking guests, Steffi gave a fascinating lecture about wildlife adaptations in the Observation Lounge. And for German speaking guests, Esther talked about the epic race to the South Pole in the Dining Room. Soon after the the lectures ended, a ripple of excitement went through the ship as Elephant Island started to show itself through the low cloud.

We dropped anchor off Point Wild just after 17:00. Expedition Leader Ali had a Zodiac launched and a gangway prepared so she could get on the water and assess conditions. At first it didn’t look great, but as Plancius swung on her anchor to the wind, conditions at the gangway improved considerably. Soon it was announced that we would be heading out for a Zodiac cruise around Point Wild.

The excursion proved to be an incredibly exciting experience. The expedition team maneuvered the Zodiacs as close as possible to the shore, all the time keeping one eye on the swells and looking out for submerged rocks. It was all about getting as good a view as possible of the spot where Sir Ernest Shackleton’s shipwrecked crew of the Endurance spent 4½ months through the winter of 1916. Their tiny shelter was nothing more than rough stone walls with two up-turned lifeboats on top for a roof. Theirs is one of the most epic survival stories of all time.

The only thing that marks that desolate spot is a bust of Captain Luis Pardo, the brave master mariner who rescued the 22 castaways with the Chilean Navy cutter Yelcho. A healthy population of Chinstrap penguins now occupy Point Wild, reminding us that many of their kind were killed to keep Shackleton’s men alive. On the way back to the ship, the Zodiacs swung by the glacier immediately to the west of Point Wild. A recent calving had put a lot of brash ice in the bay, which the Zodiac drivers took great delight in driving through at slow speed.

As soon as we were back onboard and all the Zodiacs had been recovered, Plancius got under way and headed south towards the South Shetland Islands. As we sailed away from Elephant Island, the clouds parted giving us a brief glimpse of the spectacular snow-capped mountains.

Day sixteen brought us to the enchanting Penguin Island, nestled in the South Shetland Islands. This place truly lives up to its name, with a colony of quirky chinstrap penguins bustling about, their mud-streaked bodies adding to the island’s rugged charm as they energetically started building their nests. Penguin Island is a volcanic isle, its landscape shaped by centuries of eruptions that left behind a fascinating mix of jagged rock formations and black sand beaches. The volcano itself, Deacon Peak, stands at the island's center, an inactive stratovolcano that last erupted thousands of years ago. Hiking up to the rim of the crater offered us sweeping, fog-draped views of this frozen and untamed terrain—a true taste of Antarctica’s raw beauty.

For those who took the crater trail, the views were breathtaking. From the summit, we could gaze over the island’s unique blend of volcanic and icy landscapes. The black sands and snow provide a stunning contrast, with the icy blue of the surrounding waters stretching out into the horizon. To the south, we could even glimpse the tip of King George Island, our next destination.

Back down by the shore, we were treated to a memorable sight - a Weddell seal, slowly swimming along the shoreline. These seals are remarkable for their ability to live in some of the most extreme conditions on Earth, using their strong jaws to carve breathing holes in the ice.

But perhaps the day's highlight was the encounter with two leopard seals resting on a floating ice chunk near our landing site. Known as Amphitrite in many languages—a nod to the wife of Poseidon and the queen of the oceans—the leopard seal is one of Antarctica’s apex predators. They are sleek, formidable hunters, using their agility to hunt penguins and other seals. This particular pair was particularly special, as one was still quite young, likely just a year old.

Later, we headed to King George Island, the largest of the South Shetland Islands, where we were greeted by a handful of early-arriving adelie penguins on the rocky coast of Three Sisters Point. King George Island, with its mix of rocky outcrops, glaciers, and human activity, is a hub of international research stations, a place where the wild and the scientific meet. The adelies, bold and curious, seemed unperturbed by our presence, giving us an up-close look at their lively personalities. Cruising along Turret Point, we even saw petrels scavenging on a carcass, a stark reminder of the circle of life in these remote regions.

Our zodiac cruise that afternoon was truly a thrill, despite the snowy, blustery weather. We began with a distant glimpse of a humpback whale surfacing on the horizon, a massive silhouette against the white landscape, before making a second stop to visit our “chill” leopard seals. The wind whipped through the zodiacs, and snow clung to our gear, but the journey was more than worth it for the sights we saw along the way.

After an exhilarating two-hour zodiac adventure, we returned to the ship, covered in snow and windswept but full of awe. Alex and Bobbi greeted us with warm smiles and an extra special treat: steaming hot chocolate with a little kick to help us thaw out. It was the perfect end to an unforgettable Antarctic day.

“Good morning everyone, ice ahead, get out of bed and enjoy the show!”, were the words of excitement we woke to on this true expedition day. The thick ice grumbling around the ship as it found its way through the intricate frozen mase offered a sight never thought possible. We powered through as far as we could for the better part of two hours until it was clear that there was no way we would make it to Antarctic sound without risking getting ice locked and spend a few awkward days like Shackleton and his men have a century ago.

With a heavy heart, the Captain along with Ali made the responsible decision to turn around and head towards the South Shetlands where it’s untouched Antarctic landscape was guaranteed to us.

During the crossing that would last until mid afternoon, Will entertained us with the life of exploring pioneer Fridtjof Nansen. The Norwegian legend father of polar exploration and the captain of the FRAM.

After a rocky crossing through the Bransfield straight we arrived to we finally made it to our destination, Halfmoon Island.

The landscape was ethereal, the light wind and the fluffy snowflakes creating a winter wonderland. The penguins themselves were scattered all over the area along with many seals and their cubs along the shoreline. There we walked for some time as our expedition team created a long loop over the better part of the island.

The most daring among us took the opportunity today to do the so-called ‘polar plunge’ – a jump into the ice-cold Antarctic water. Some of us even stayed for several minutes, but for most of us a few seconds of hardening was enough before we ran proudly and shivering back to the beach.

On leaving the island, the fog cleared and Camara station could be seen. This Argentine base, used sporadically by the navy but a reminder of the geopolitical challenges the Antarctic faces, Camara being one of the many scientific bases that are scattered around the continent.

A day well spent in Antarctica once again, tomorrow will be our last day on the edge of the world, and the heart grows heavier every minute from the thought of leaving.

Our last day on Antarctica had finally come, for the last time on the frozen continent did we get woken up by Ali, excited for an adventurous day ahead!

The night was spent in the safe inlet of Yankee harbour. We woke up to a true Antarctic scenery, light wind, fog and snow falling like a Christmas morning.

We jumped into the zodiacs shortly after breakfast for a longish ride to our landing site. The drivers had their GPS out to navigate in the fog and were cautious to sway their way between the blocks of ice that littered the frozen waters.

On our arrival the snowfall doubled in intensity, and we were allowed to walk along the point to a colony of penguins nestled on the gentle slopes inside the bay. It is a wonder how those creatures can withstand such a brutal environment; how can their small bodies generate enough heat to survive the frigid temperatures. The landing was an experience, on the way back the wind had gained in intensity and propelled the snow flakes upon us like hail. We made it back to the landing site and boarded the zodiacs to get back to the Ship.

On our way we were surprised by a large group of feeding gentoo penguins. Numbering in the hundreds, they were swimming and feeding around the boats. It is in these moments we are remembered that they are birds as they get spooked by the slightest movement unlike on land and they all simultaneously dive underwater and flee the threat.

As we set sail for Deception Island, we encountered a group of Orca feeling as we approached the “Narrows”, this tight mouth that marks the entrance of Deception island.

This island was called so as it deceived sailors, thinking it was a closed mountain, but it hides a comfortable and safe caldera, perfect for sailors in need of rest before making south to Antarctica after battling the Drake Passage.

As we made our way on land, we noticed the absence of animals. Wondering if the volcano would erupt that day. Upon arrival, we were struck by the contrast the snow makes on the black volcanic sand. We walked on the snow-covered lad and put on snow shoes! A bit tricky to figure out but once one is all set, they make walking in snow as easy as if walking in our bare feet. We walked for some time, on this barren island, up a volcano where the views were simply stunning.

It was time to get back on board and enjoy our last zodiac ride, in bumpy conditions, with waves and wind.

We awoke by the gentle roll of the Drake Passage. This notorious body of water between Antarctica and South America is colloquially known as the ‘Drake Shake’, or the ‘Drake Lake’, depending on your luck with swell and wind. Fortunately for us, we were experiencing quite a mild crossing, so we were somewhere in between a lake and shake. Gabi gave us a very fitting lecture in the main lounge about the passage’s namesake itself, Sir Francis Drake. We learnt that although he was an avid sailor and explorer, some viewed him as an evil pirate due to his infamous raids on other vessels and settlements.

We used these last remaining sea days to share and process photos, share contacts and reflect on our journey through the Southern Ocean. A bittersweet feeling was felt in the lounge’s atmosphere, we were excited to get home and see our loved ones, but the Plancius really started to feel like home too. There were already murmurs among us of booking future trips.

We then joined Will in the main lounge for a talk on the history of Roald Amundsen, the Norwegian polar explorer who was the first to reach the South Pole on December 14th, 1911. We learnt that Amundsen was an extremely tenacious man and pragmatic man, and from his experience in the Arctic and knowledge passed down from Nansen, he learnt to use furs, drive dogs and build igloos to survive in the harsh conditions. This kind of preparation and organisation was key to Amundsen’s success on reaching the pole and back safely. And unlike most polar explorers during their expeditions, Amundsen's team gained weight during the expediton!

After lunch, Chloe then gave us an interesting talk about her time on some of the Antarctic research stations. She travelled to New Zealand’s Scott Base and USA’s McMurdo Station down in the Ross Sea in 2018 and learnt all the quirky and fascinating things about life on station. We also learnt all about ‘Antarctic Gateway Cities’, being Hobart (Australia), Christchurch (New Zealand), Cape Town (South Africa), Ushuaia (Argentina) and Punta Arenas (Chile). These cities are viewed as gateways to the Antarctic not only due to their geographic location to the south, but host a range of Antarctic related infrastructure and services such as: travel logistics and support, scientific facilities, tourism ports, government establishments, and research and policy organizations. Chloe told us all about her role as the Hobart representative on the Antarctic Cities Youth Expedition back in 2020, and how she has since been advocating for more Antarctic education and outreach for youth.

The sun broke through the clouds, and despite the decks being closed majority of the day due to the wind, we managed to get out on the aft and up on the bridge wings for some fresh air and spotted numerous whale blows in the distance.

In the evening, we had our usual briefing and recap up in the lounge, where Arie (our lovely guest from the Netherlands who won the auction item of being the expedition team’s assistant) was awarded his certificate of internship for all his wonderful duties. We celebrated our final recap with funny penguin videos and a ‘Guess the Bird’ game that tested our knowledge and imagination.

After dinner, some of us met in the library for some music, sharing around the guitar and singing along to some ballads. The atmosphere was warm and lively, and we began to realise that these trips aren’t memorable just because of the destination and the wildlife, but because of the people too.

We awoke to another superb day in Drake Passage. Outside the sun was shining, the winds were light, and the sea state was uncharacteristically good for the region. This was the ‘Drake Lake’ that many of us had prayed for! Plancius was making excellent progress northwards, escorted by an airborne parade of albatrosses, petrels and prions. The pre-breakfast wake-up call was a bit different this morning. The sound of Swiss cow bells rang out around the ship, as the top bidder for the wakeup call at the South Georgia charity auction, enjoyed his big moment. We all loved it.

At 09:30 Assistant Expedition Leader Allan gave a lecture entitled ‘Sled Dogs; Unsung Heroes of Antarctic Exploration’. After a short overview of how dogs were used by expeditions of the heroic age, Allan then talked about the 5 decades that huskies were present in Antarctica, supporting the survey and scientific work carried out by many different nations. Thousands of huskies gave their lives so that we humans could explore and understand Antarctica. When the last dogs departed in 1994, they left behind the spirits of thousands of huskies that were born, lived, explored and died on the frozen continent.

At 11:00 Expedition Leader Ali gave an enlightening lecture about ‘Ice Maidens’ - Women in Antarctica. She began by telling us the stories of some of the wives that were left behind during the heroic age. The likes of Kathleen Scott and Emily Shackleton were pillars of strength, supporting their famous husbands in their ventures. We were all surprised by the appalling attitude towards women being in Antarctica in the early days. Bases were exclusively male until the late 1960’s, when women slowly started to break into the Antarctic community. Even then, some countries were very slow to allow women on their bases. Today, many bases have women, and it’s not at all uncommon to find a woman in the role of base commander.

When lunch was announced by Hotel Manager Alex, some reflected on the fact that it would be our final lunch on Plancius. Head Chef Bawa and his team had done a wonderful job keeping us all fed, and we would miss their culinary skills. As lunch was coming to an end, Ali announced that Cape Horn lay some 42 nautical miles off our port side, and that it was visible…..just.

The final afternoon on board was taken at a very easy pace. Many took the chance to make a start with packing, while others enjoyed the chance to be out on deck, which so often isn’t possible when near Cape Horn. The birds maintained their ceaseless watch, which had rewarded them with a rare Kerguelen Petrel during our Drake Passage crossing. As we closed in on land, the wind increased to over 30 knots and a bit more motion was felt in the ship. This was the approaching “purple monster” that was forecasted to hit the Drake Passage overnight. Our Captain wanted to get us in to the shelter of the Beagle Channel before it reached full strength.

At 15:00 Expedition Guide Steffi gave an interesting lecture about ‘Gas Ballooning’. Steffi is a professional balloon pilot who represents Austria in competitions at the highest level and is the reigning World Champion. Her passion for this unique and highly technical sport was very much evident during her outstanding presentation.

Next on the agenda was the return of our beloved Muck Boots. They had been our constant companions on every single excursion during the voyage. Some of us felt a little sadness when handing them back to the expedition team. At 18:15 we were invited to the lounge for a farewell drink with Captain Levakov and the expedition team. Farewells and thanks were expressed in equal measure, as we toasted the voyage we were about to complete. The grand finale was a showing of the expedition slideshow, a first-class digital diary of our voyage compiled by Expedition Guide Gabi. And then it was off to the restaurant for the delicious farewell dinner, during which Hotel Manager Alex introduced his awesome team.

Plancius arrived at the Beagle Channel Pilot Station around 19:00 and took on two Argentine harbor pilots for the 4½ hours transit to Ushuaia. We docked just before midnight, for a quiet final night’s sleep on our floating home-from-home.  

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina and it was time to say our goodbyes and a last chance to exchange contact details. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said goodbye to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore some of the town’s treasures while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, remembering good times and perhaps planning for more in the future.