OTL31-25, trip log, Antarctica - Polar Circle - Deep South Discovery voyage

The day had finally come! It was time to board the good ship Ortelius for our Antarctic expedition to the deep south and past the Antarctic Circle. The journey to the bottom of the world began in Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city on Earth, where the chill in the air felt like an omen of the adventure that lay ahead. Despite the brisk wind that greeted us, it was a glorious sunny day, as we boarded the MV Ortelius. A sense of excitement and anticipation hung in the air. The ship, a sturdy ice-strengthened vessel, was waiting for us at the dock, ready to take us across the Drake Passage and into the icy waters of the Antarctic Peninsula.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and staff who assisted us with check-in at reception and finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings and grab a coffee in the bar. Everyone was on board by 16:45. Then it was time to gather in the bar for a mandatory briefing on ship safety procedures. Once complete, we could sail. We met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, who introduced the mandatory safety video. Next it was time for an abandon ship drill. Upon hearing the emergency alarm, we went to our cabins, put on something warm, grabbed our lifejackets, and went to the muster station back up in the bar. From there we were guided outside and up to the bridge deck where the lifeboats are located, so we knew where to go in the event of a real emergency.

We went back to our cabins to put away our lifejackets when Sara invited us to join Captain Remmert in the bar for prosecco and canapés, to raise a glass and toast the voyage ahead. This was followed by an introduction to shipboard services by Hotel Manager Oleksandr, and an overview of our expedition by our illustrious leader Sara. The Expedition Team and the ship’s doctor also introduced themselves to us.

With the first briefing formalities concluded, it was time for our evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Heinz and his galley team, served by the ever-friendly dining room staff. After dinner we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered. Because 100% attendance is required, these briefings were done while Ortelius was still in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Expedition Leader Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member. And then Sara gave us the Zodiac Safety Briefing.

After a long day of travel, it was time for bed and some well-earned rest. What would tomorrow bring? The infamous Southern Ocean lay ahead. We hoped (some prayed) it would be kind.

We got our first wake-up call of the trip from Sara, with her trademark – “Good morning, good morning, good morning”. We were out in the Drake Passage now. We felt it already last night around 01:30 as we left the sheltered coastal waters of Argentina and headed out into the mighty Southern Ocean. It definitely was not an easy start to our trip. The 3-to-4-meter waves that Sara was explaining to us already yesterday were rocking Ortelius from port to starboard, resulting in a sparsely filled dining room over breakfast. Unfortunately, a lot of us weren’t feeling well and stayed in our cabins. The programmed muck boot handout at 10:30 to all of us was therefore also postponed. A few of us were at the bridge watching how some of the big waves swallowed the bow of the ship. Several albatross and petrel species delighted us with their presence around the ship, among which was the impressive Wandering albatross, the biggest of them all with a wingspan of up to 3,5 meters.

At 11:30 Dr. Gary Miller kicked off the lecture program with a presentation called ‘Seabirds of the Southern Ocean’. He set the scene by explaining why this region is so rich in seabirds and went on to talk about the species we had already seen, and those we hoped to see during the voyage. Appropriately, some of these magnificent birds could be seen passing by the bar windows during Gary’s talk. Next on the agenda was a buffet lunch, which was announced soon after the conclusion of the lecture.

After lunch the divers were meeting in the bar for their first mandatory dive briefing given by dive leader Tanja, while the rest of us had some free time to enjoy the birds outside. The sun had come out and because we shifted the course over lunch the ship’s movements got a little calmer, so more of us were up and about to enjoy being on the Drake. Now that Gary had introduced us to the seabirds, it was easier for us to recognize them. The most common birds seen throughout the day were Black-browed albatrosses, because 70% of their global population lives in the Falkland Islands to the north of us. Various species of prions and petrels were also seen. Wind and swell both reduced as the afternoon wore on.

At 16:15 marine biologist Jess Owen invited us to the bar for her enthusiastic talk on ‘The Whales and Dolphins of the Southern Ocean’ that we are hoping to spot in the next few days. There were a few rare species that she had never seen before either and was hoping we could spot them together these upcoming days.

At our first daily recap in the evening, Sara gave us an update on our progress so far and the program for tomorrow. Charlotte talked about the Drake Passage, and Marco explained all about the winds that circle the waters around Antarctica. Then we went for a lovely 3-course dinner in the dining room, and so ended our first full day on Ortelius.

The day began with the gentle voice of Sara coming out of the ship’s intercom, waking us from our slumber with a cheerful morning greeting. Overnight, we had crossed the Antarctic Convergence, the natural boundary where cold Antarctic waters meet warmer sub-Antarctic currents, creating a distinct drop in temperature.

By the time we awoke, we were officially south of 60 degrees latitude and in Antarctic waters. Thankfully, for those who did not feel their best yesterday due to the ship’s motion, the waters felt significantly calmer today and we were making good progress, with 11 knots of speed towards Antarctica.

After slowly emerging from our cabins, we made our way to the dining room, where a buffet breakfast awaited us. The tables were filled with an assortment of warm dishes, fresh fruit, and pastries, a welcome start to what would be a full day at sea. Over steaming cups of coffee and tea, we chatted excitedly about the voyage ahead, glancing occasionally out the portholes to see the endless rolling swells of the Southern Ocean. Those who finished breakfast quickly were treated to beautiful views of the elegant Light mantled albatross as it soared by the bridge windows.

The first activity of the day was a lecture by Marco, an introduction to the Antarctic Peninsula, the icy, otherworldly destination that we were slowly approaching. Marco spoke about the region’s dramatic landscapes, its history of exploration, and the unique wildlife that thrived in its extreme environment. His passion for Antarctica was contagious, and we all listened attentively, eager to absorb as much as we could before arriving at this frozen frontier.

After the lecture, we headed down to the lecture room to try on and pick up our muck boots. These sturdy, insulated boots are essential for landings on the continent, where we would encounter icy terrain, snow, and even shallow water when stepping out of the Zodiacs. The room buzzed with excitement as we stomped around to check the fit and exchanged smiles at the thought of our upcoming adventures on solid Antarctic ground.

Then our first iceberg was spotted and most of us went outside to experience this surreal sight. Its towering, jagged edges loomed like ancient sculptures carved by nature. The deep blue hue contrasted against the icy white, creating a striking spectacle. The calm of the surrounding waters amplified its majesty.

Before lunch there was time for one more lecture, this time by Sara, who gave an engaging talk about penguins. She spoke in detail about their biology, behaviour, and adaptations to the harsh Antarctic environment. Her presentation also included answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about these charming creatures — how they survive the cold, how they care for their chicks, and whether they really mate for life. By the end of her talk, we all felt like penguin experts and couldn’t wait for our first encounters with these iconic birds in the wild.

After lunch we were in the midst of performing biosecurity checks on all the outer gear up in the bar, carefully inspecting for any contamination or hitchhiking pests. The check was interrupted when a pod of long-finned pilot whales appeared in the distance. Their sleek bodies cut through the water and swam towards our starboard side. Their playful behavior drew our attention. It was a breathtaking sight. The ones not busy with the meticulous task ran outside to enjoy this special moment. Later that afternoon, we spent some time out on deck, bundled up against the brisk Antarctic wind.

Freshly baked treats were served in the bar at four o’clock, so we helped ourselves to a warming drink to go with them as we gathered in the bar for a talk by Enric, who spoke about the various types of ice found in Antarctica. His presentation covered everything from towering glaciers to delicate sea ice, explaining how each type forms, evolves, and plays a crucial role in the region’s ecosystem. As he spoke, we realized how much there was to learn about the frozen landscapes ahead, and our appreciation for the icy wilderness grew with each passing slide and anecdote.

Before dinner, we had our second recap of the voyage, where Sara went over the day’s events and, more importantly, unveiled the exciting plans for tomorrow. The anticipation in the room was palpable as she described our expected arrival at the Antarctic Peninsula, the possible landings we would attempt including a highly anticipated continental landing, and the wildlife we might encounter. Everyone listened intently, eager to hear every detail of what lay ahead.

The evening concluded with a special treat—a screening of Happy Feet. We settled into our seats with bowls of warm popcorn in hand, ready to enjoy the heartwarming animated tale of a young emperor penguin who dances to his own rhythm. The laughter and smiles throughout the room showed that even after a full day of scientific lectures and serious discussions, we could still embrace the simple joy of a well-told story.

As the movie ended and we slowly made our way to our cabins, we couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of excitement. Tomorrow, we would reach Antarctica. The adventure was just beginning.

Waking up on our first day in Antarctica, the decks were covered in a layer of snow and while it was still snowing, we witnessed several Humpback whales feeding right in front of the bow of Ortelius. Everything felt surreal as we stepped into this frozen wonderland. One of the most highly anticipated moments was our continental landing at Portal Point, an iconic location on the Peninsula’s northern edge. Stepping onto the icy landmass of Antarctica was an unforgettable experience — a rare privilege for anyone to stand on the frozen continent.

Portal Point, a quiet and remote area, greeted us with its stark beauty covered in a haze of mist. The real Antarctic weather. Sara and her team awaited us on shore, where we could hike up the hill to the left, enjoy the landscape and also be able to take photos with the Antarctic flag. With our flag in hand, we proudly captured the moment in photographs — an emblem of human presence in this otherwise untouched, inhospitable world. Or we could choose the completely silent area to the right. The absence of wildlife in the immediate vicinity allowed us to sit and simply absorb the stillness— a profound sense of peace and solitude. The only sounds were the faint crunch of our footsteps in the snow, the occasional gust of wind whispering across the icy expanse and some Humpback whales swimming by. It was an experience that felt like time had paused, as if we had become part of the landscape itself.

After a period of quiet reflection and exploration, it was time for a hearty lunch, prepared by Head Chef Heinz and his dedicated galley team. The meal was a welcome break from the elements and a reminder of the comforts of good food and companionship, even in the most remote corners of the earth. All of us were aware of the privilege of having been in such an extraordinary place.

Following lunch, we set out for an afternoon Zodiac cruise to Enterprise Island, just off the coast of the Peninsula. There were Humpback whales all around us, but our first destination was the site of the historic shipwreck of the Guvernøren, a Norwegian whaling ship that met its fate in 1915 after running aground in the icy waters. The wreck was partially submerged and lies in a sheltered bay on the island, and visiting it offered a fascinating glimpse into Antarctica’s history of exploration and exploitation. The Zodiac cruise itself was an adventure. As we skimmed across the glassy surface of the water, the cold air filled our lungs, and the surrounding landscape unfolded before us in all its frozen glory. The towering cliffs and glaciers of Enterprise Island loomed large, and the shipwreck itself stood as a silent testament to the harsh conditions faced by early explorers and whalers in the region.

Our Zodiac drifted close to the wreck, allowing us to observe the ship from different angles. The clear water gave away the part that had sunk and the crumbling hull and broken pieces of its structure were hauntingly beautiful in their decay. The sight evoked a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era of Antarctic exploration.

While the wreck was a definite highlight, the surrounding waters and ice formations added to the awe of the excursion. We passed icebergs in various stages of transformation. The ocean was dotted with small pieces of brash ice, and that’s when we heard the whales trumpeting almost everywhere around us. They were feeding and resting (logging) at the surface. All of us had mind-blowing encounters and were able to take amazing pictures and videos. The whales were curiously spy-hopping beside our zodiacs or swimming underneath. We stayed out for around 3 hours. It was an exceptional afternoon! The pristine, untouched nature of the landscape felt humbling, reminding us once again of the vastness of the Antarctic wilderness and how small we were in comparison.

Back on board we took a warm shower and gathered in the lounge for another recap by expedition leader Sara. She told us about the plans for tomorrow. Charlotte told us about seal identification, followed by Jess giving us some more in-depth information about the Humpback whales. Allan shared a story about the Reclus Hut that was no longer standing at Portal Point but can be now visited in the museum in Stanley, Falkland Islands. It was used by Wally Herbert, an honourable English explorer from the 1960’s, to whom Allan sold milk when he was only 14 years old, back in his own hometown. If he only knew then who Wally Herbert was.

Our first day in Antarctica was an amazing one. We talked about it yet again over a lovely dinner. Curious what tomorrow brings. Good night, everybody.

It was 06:45 when we sailed through the stunning Lemaire Channel, a place so breathtaking that even the seasoned crew members couldn’t hide their awe. We passed through a natural gateway 600 meters wide and 11 kilometres long, surrounded by jagged mountain peaks and glacial ice. The sheer beauty of it all was overwhelming, and for a moment, we found ourselves speechless, simply taking in the scene before us.

After breakfast, we suited up for our next adventure: a three-hour Zodiac cruise through the Iceberg Graveyard in Salpètrière Bay. The anticipation was palpable as we stepped onto the small, rubber boats. We left the ship, and it wasn’t long before several Humpback whales came to check us out. They were feeding in the bay and curiously swam around us in an area where icebergs were looming at the horizon like ancient, frozen giants.

The Iceberg Graveyard was aptly named. Everywhere we looked, enormous, sculptural chunks of ice floated serenely on the water, some with sharp, angular edges, others rounded and smooth. Each one was unique, a masterpiece of nature's artistry. The true magic of the morning, besides the icebergs, was the amount of wildlife. We were fortunate enough to witness a series of incredible encounters that made the experience even more extraordinary. As we floated silently through the graveyard, a group of Humpback whales appeared. With each dive, we could see the Humpbacks gliding gracefully just beneath the surface of the water. It was awe-inspiring to be so close to such magnificent creatures, their sheer size and power leaving us all in silent admiration.

As we drifted further into the waters, we were surrounded by hundreds of Gentoo penguins, their tuxedoed bodies bobbing in the water. It was like a scene out of a nature documentary, only it was real. The penguins swam effortlessly around us, darting through the water with playful energy. They came close to the boat, their curious eyes peering up at us as they passed by. The sheer number of penguins was staggering - rafts of them, all moving in perfect synchrony. As if that wasn’t enough, we were also lucky enough to spot a Minke whale. The whale surfaced quite close to several Zodiacs. It lingered for just a moment before diving again.

But the morning wasn’t over yet. As we continued on, we spotted a Leopard seal swimming near the shoreline of Booth Island, checking out the penguins that were getting into the water. Nearby, a Crabeater seal was lying sleepy on a bolder on the shoreline, occasionally popping its head up.

The entire experience was nothing short of phenomenal. We were surrounded by nature in its rawest form, a landscape and ecosystem so unique that it felt as if we had stepped into another world. The three hours flew by in the blink of an eye, but the memories will stay with us forever. As we made our way back to the ship, we couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude for having witnessed such incredible moments.

After lunch, we stayed in the same bay and were brought by zodiac to the landing site of Port Charcot. Port Charcot is a sheltered bay named after the French explorer Jean Charcot, who was a prominent figure in Antarctic exploration. Upon arrival, we found ourselves walking among colonies of Gentoo penguins. The penguins were unfazed by our presence, allowing us to observe them closely. We saw chicks, some still covered in their soft, downy feathers, as they eagerly followed their parents. The penguins' behaviour was fascinating, and their interactions with each other created a lively atmosphere on the beach.

We could also hike up to the cairn — an iconic rock structure often used by explorers to mark significant spots. From the summit, the panoramic view was simply stunning. Later in the afternoon the mist rolled in, but still it was a great place to visit and to be able to stretch our legs while being off the ship. The bay below stretched out before us filled with small pieces of brash ice. It was a perfect combination of nature, wildlife, and adventure in one of the most remote and awe-inspiring places on Earth.

Back on board we headed south again and passed by several of the immense icebergs we had seen before today. The sun was shining through the clouds just enough to put a mystical glare over the ice. We had another recap with information for the next day, which would be a proper expedition day as we didn’t know yet what to expect with ice conditions. We also learned the time for tomorrow’s breakfast and listened to Gary passionately telling us about the brushtail penguins over recap, followed by a lovely three-course dinner.

The night was a restless one, with the sea churning beneath the ship as we cruised south, steadily making our way toward the Antarctic Circle. The winds were relentless, and the air was cold, biting at any exposed skin, yet there was something undeniably exhilarating about this deep-south adventure. We crossed the Antarctic Circle at 07:00, it was a milestone on this trip. The sea was a mix of glassy calm and sudden, jarring swells that added a challenging edge to the night’s journey.

By morning, we were further south, approaching Detaille Island, a tiny speck of land with a rich history. Yet, despite our proximity, the strong winds — gusting up to 40 knots — forced us to abandon any plans for an operation or landing. The conditions were simply too treacherous for a safe approach. The thought of standing on the icy shores of Detaille Island was tantalizing, but the weather had other plans. It was a reminder of the unforgiving nature of the Southern Ocean, where every moment is subject to the whims of the elements.

Undeterred by the change of plans, the morning continued with intellectual nourishment. At 08:45, Charlotte gave an engaging lecture on seals, those fascinating creatures that roam the icy waters of the Antarctic. She spoke about their adaptation to the harsh environment, their behaviours, and the intricate ecosystems they support. The group listened intently, captivated by the depth of her knowledge and the stunning images of seals in their natural habitat.

As the morning progressed, we gathered again at 11:30 for another lecture. This time, it was Saskia who shared the gripping story of the Belgian Antarctic Expedition led by Adrien de Gerlache. Her recounting brought to life the perilous voyage of the Belgica, which became icebound in the pack ice for an entire winter. The harrowing conditions and the challenges the explorers faced were vividly brought to life, offering a window into the early days of Antarctic exploration.

After lunch, we had some free time to relax and take in the mesmerizing sight of the ocean. The ship's bow cut through the waves, and the big swells crashed dramatically against it, sending sprays of water high into the air. It was a breathtaking display of nature's power, and the sound of the waves was both thrilling and calming. As we watched, a few seabirds soared gracefully overhead—Grey-headed Albatross and Black-browed Albatross, their wings stretched wide, effortlessly gliding on the wind. The sheer elegance of these birds in such a wild environment was captivating, and their presence added to the sense of awe that surrounded us.

At 16:30, Clara gave a fascinating lecture on krill. She explained their crucial role in the Antarctic ecosystem, feeding everything from seals to whales, and highlighted their importance in maintaining the delicate balance of life in these cold, remote waters.

After successfully crossing the Antarctic Circle today, we were handed a glass of prosecco to celebrate that over the recap. Expedition leader Sara then gathered us to share the program for the following day, outlining the exciting plans and experiences that awaited us. This was followed by a session where various questions from the question box were answered. Afterward, we enjoyed another delicious meal. In the evening, we gathered in the bar to watch the new Shackleton movie, a fitting tribute to the legendary explorer’s spirit, adding a touch of history and inspiration to the end of our exciting day.

We began our day with a spectacular landing at Damoy Point, a place with rich history, home to the iconic hut and the remnants of an old runway. Damoy Hut, built in 1975 as a refuge for British Antarctic Survey personnel, was one of the few manned structures in this remote region. It had played an important role as a “pit stop” for expeditions in the Antarctic Peninsula. The air was crisp, and the scenery was breathtaking — an untouched, vast landscape stretching in every direction. We disembarked from the vessel, eager to stretch our legs and explore. The route was only 2.5 kilometres, but each step felt like a journey through a world unlike any other. We walked with a sense of reverence for the land, each footfall reminding us of how remote and wild this part of the world truly was. In the afternoon, we set sail toward Jougla Point. The wind was biting at first, and snowflakes danced in the air, but as we neared land, the weather began to ease. We then made our way to Port Lockroy, the most southerly post office in the world, still manned by the British. It was a quaint and surreal place, and standing there, we felt like time had slowed down.

But the day’s most unforgettable moment came when our guides spotted something in the distance — a Leopard Seal, gliding through the icy waters with eerie grace. We watched in awe as it had caught a penguin, dragging it beneath the surface. We all held our breath as the predator expertly played with its prey. For over an hour, the seal caught and toyed with the penguin, its movements both beautiful and haunting. We couldn’t help but feel a mix of sadness and amazement at the scene unfolding before us. The penguins fought in vain, their lives quickly coming to an end in nature’s brutal cycle.

As we watched, the leopard seal, seemingly unbothered by our presence, swam closer to the Zodiacs, flaunting its catch. Its cold, unblinking eyes seemed to challenge us as it presented the lifeless penguin next to an iceberg. We couldn’t look away as it slowly began to consume its meal, the weight of the moment sinking in. We stood in silence, each of us processing the rawness of what we had just witnessed.

The cruelty of nature was undeniable, yet so was the majesty of the seal’s power and skill. We had just witnessed a rare and unforgettable glimpse into the harsh realities of the wild — a reminder that life in this frigid part of the world is ruled by survival, beauty, and the inevitable cycle of life and death.

The day finished with a fantastic BBQ on the helideck, all of us got involved in the dancing, whether it was right in the middle of the circle or at the sidelines. The light was stunning as yellows and oranges shone on the mountains. What an incredible day!

Our morning landing at Danco Island started early, as we set off to avoid the worst of the incoming weather. While we boarded the Zodiacs, a Humpback whale popped up just beside Ortelius. We then made our way to the beach, where the scene that awaited us was nothing short of magical. As we landed on the shore, we were immediately greeted by a bustling colony of Gentoo penguins. The parents were out at sea and it was all the chicks from around two and a half months old that were there hanging out together. Some of them were completely moulted, but others still had a fluffy, funny mohawk haircut. The chicks, awkwardly waddling and chirping, were a comical and heartwarming sight. Their energy was contagious, as they were running like fools after each other and stumbling over pieces of ice and rocks. They were bringing smiles to everyone’s faces. The first of us to arrive on shore witnessed a leopard seal trying to catch a penguin from the beach. But he or she was unsuccessful. Bad for the seal, lucky for the little penguin. There were also several curious fur seals around who were poking their heads up out of the water.

After spending some time observing the adorable clustering of chicks, we embarked on a hike up the hill. The climb was steep, but the zigzag route made it a little easier. The reward was well worth it: from the top, we were treated to a panoramic view of the bay below. The water, dotted with enormous icebergs, stretched as far as the eye could see, creating a stunning contrast against the grey sky. We could also spot several humpback whales swimming slowly through the icy waters, their massive forms barely breaking the surface as they moved gracefully between the ice floes. The call from the whales was so loud that you could hear it from far away. It was a sight that made the whole hike worthwhile — another true moment of awe in the heart of the Antarctic wilderness.

As we descended from the hill and returned to the beach, the clouds began to part, and a brief patch of sunshine illuminated the landscape in an almost magical way. The sunlight, though brief, created a surreal atmosphere, and with the cold air invigorating our senses, we decided to take part in the famous polar plunge. Half of us, filled with a sense of adventure and perhaps a bit of madness, eagerly ran into the icy waters. The shock of the freezing temperature was immediate and intense, but it only heightened the sense of exhilaration. We quickly returned to the warmth of the ship, our bodies still tingling from the icy plunge.

After a hearty lunch back on board, our expedition leader, Sara, gave a fascinating lecture on 'Marine Threats.' She covered the challenges the Southern Ocean faces, from the effects of climate change to the impact of overfishing and pollution. Her talk was a sobering reminder of the delicate balance that allows these ecosystems to thrive and of how fragile they are in the face of human activity.

By the afternoon, the weather had started to deteriorate, just as predicted. We sailed on to the Melchior Islands, which were meant to be the best spot for operations on the whole peninsula. But we embarked on a Zodiac cruise in rainy and snowy conditions. The harsh weather didn’t deter us; if anything, it made the experience feel more adventurous. We were rewarded with sightings of Humpback whales and many groups of Fur seals lounging on the rocky shores, seemingly unfazed by the elements.

Back on board the ship, Sara welcomed us with hot chocolate and a splash of rum—just the remedy for the cold, wet conditions. After a hot shower we all gathered in the bar for the daily recap and just as Sara wanted to start a whale breached just beside the ship on the portside. What a treat. Marco shared some interesting information in a funny, but clear presentation about icebergs and their shapes. Due to a question in the question box about whether domestic animals were ever taken to Antarctica, Allan provided some detailed information on dogs, cats, pigs, and horses that were taken on expeditions or to scientific research stations over the years. As we settled in for dinner, the ship began to pitch more heavily in the wind and waves, a reminder of the power of the Southern Ocean. Later, in the bar, a brief video about the eruption at Deception Island was shown to prepare us for the next day’s landing. Let’s see what tomorrow brings again!

At 06:45 Sara woke us up and highly encouraged us to get out on deck as we had arrived at Deception Island, part of the South Shetland Islands, our destination from this morning. Deception Island is one of the few places in the world where we can witness the raw power of nature up close. The caldera is a vast, circular basin, the result of a massive volcanic eruption that formed a safe harbor for ships. We were about to enter this stunning volcanic caldera.

Navigation through Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow passage to the caldera, is always challenging. The entrance is only 230 meters (755 feet) wide, but it creates an awe-inspiring sight that we admired as we carefully manoeuvred through the narrow opening. The Bellows have earned a reputation of being particularly tricky to navigate, especially considering the hidden danger that lies within the waters — the infamous Ravn Rock. This submerged rock sits just 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) below the waterline in the middle of the channel. Its location has made it a notorious hazard for sailors over the years, and it’s easy to understand why navigating these waters requires utmost precision. Once we successfully navigated the Bellows, the sky started to clear, and the rising sun painted the thin layer of clouds pinkish. We turned into the bay immediately on the right, named Whalers Bay. The bridge team was checking the best anchoring spot, whilst a helicopter was taking off from a Chilean Navy vessel that was already in the bay, probably to drop supplies for seismic measuring devices they were installing.

After breakfast we made ourselves ready to go in the Zodiacs to be dropped on land where Sara welcomed us and told us about the options we had. To the left we immersed ourselves in the old days, wandering within the remains of the former Base B from the British Antarctic Survey that they established in 1944. Over time, the station played a key role in Antarctic research, particularly in the fields of geology, glaciology, and environmental science. The station was eventually closed in 1967 after a volcanic eruption that severely damaged the infrastructure.

But even before that, it already had a rich history in the whaling industry. In the early 20th century, it became a major whaling station, with the first facilities established by Norway in 1906. The bay's sheltered harbour made it an ideal location for processing whale oil. The station operated until the 1930s, after which the whaling industry declined. The remains of the last century still stand today, serving as a historical site.

Walking out to the right we hiked the 2-kilometre black sandy beach towards Neptune’s Window. Along the way we encountered quite a few of the local residents, fur seals. Most of them were napping and only opened one eye when they heard our footsteps in the sand. But there were some feisty ones that wanted to show us that it was their beach we had entered. What we obviously respected. Especially here. It is really great to see them back at this specific location, as from the 1820’s sealers hunted them down to extinction. Finally, getting up to the window, the strong wind almost made us ‘fly’, but the view over the vast ocean was worth the climb. Looking back gave us an amazing overview of the extensive bay below us with our Ortelius pushed by the strong winds. Back on board we went for a hot drink, followed with lunch. Then we sailed further into the caldera, which gave us a chance to take in the stark beauty of the island's landscapes with dramatic colourful cliffs and volcanic beaches. We also managed to see the remains of two research stations, of which one was wiped out by the last eruption in 1971. Then we sailed out through Neptune’s Bellows again, now lighted by the sun. This was still the time we could enjoy the ocean standing on the outside decks before we headed into the waves as predicted.

In the afternoon Allan invited us to the bar for his lecture titled Sledge Dogs: The Unsung Heroes of Antarctic Exploration. This fascinating talk would delve into the essential role that sled dogs have played in Antarctic exploration, often serving as the backbone of many expeditions. These resilient animals were crucial for transporting supplies, pulling sleds across vast expanses of ice, and supporting explorers in some of the harshest conditions on Earth. While often overshadowed by human heroes, the sled dogs were integral to the success of many Antarctic journeys, and Allan's presentation shed light on their remarkable contributions to exploration history.

It is a miracle how Head chef Heinz and his gally team do it, but we enjoyed another delicious three-course meal. Some of us went up to the bar for a drink and chat after, but others still didn’t trust their sea legs and headed down to their cabins.

The day began with the ship plowing through the turbulent waters of the Drake Passage, as massive waves crashed against the bow, sending spray onto the windows of the bridge on deck 7. The rhythmic pounding of the ship against the swells was a constant reminder of nature’s power, with the vessel pitching and rolling as it made its way north. The wind howled across the deck, which at this stage was closed, and the sky was a moody blend of gray. Despite the challenging conditions, most of us showed up for breakfast, which was a good sign.

As the ship continued to press onward, the storm's ferocity only seemed to increase. By the time Marco took the stage in the ship's bar, "The Blue Machine," at 09:30, the waves had reached a formidable 5 meters, making the lounge sway as he began his presentation. Marco captivated the audience with his talk about the importance of polar regions in the thermohaline circulation, a crucial process in the Earth's climate system. He explained how the cold, dense waters near the poles sink and flow southward, driving ocean currents that regulate global temperatures and weather patterns.

At 11:30, Jess took over with a lecture that was just as intriguing, though on a much different topic. Her focus was on whales and their crucial role in maintaining the health of our oceans. She explained, in her sweet witty way, how these majestic creatures help regulate the marine ecosystem by circulating nutrients through their feeding and migration patterns. Whales contribute to the carbon cycle as well, sequestering carbon in the depths of the ocean and helping mitigate climate change. It was really interesting to know that these magnificent creatures, despite their size and power, had such a profound impact on the planet's ecosystems.

In the afternoon, Gary took the stage to share his personal experience of overwintering at an Australian Antarctic Station and doing research on the emperor penguin colony close to Mawson. His stories, filled with humor and awe, brought to life the challenges and rewards of living in one of the harshest environments on Earth. The photos of the Emperor penguins and their fluffy chicks were adored by all of us.

When we all had gathered again in the bar for our daily recap the sun came out. Hotel manager Aleks shared some non-famous information about payments tomorrow. Sara then started with the weather predictions for another wavy sea day ahead followed by a string of the different lengths of whales, mainly found here in the Antarctic. Good to have an idea of these giants when they pass our Zodiacs. Clara, being a biologist and diver, then shared her personal project that she developed for local kids in Ushuaia to learn more about the underwater world in the Beagle Channel.

After dinner the dining room was cleared quickly so we could all start with the karaoke evening. Neil and Khael, the dining room stewards, also joined and sang a few songs. It was great fun and a lot of us enthusiastically participated.

Overnight, we had all been experiencing our ability to fly. We all felt weightless every few hours, almost hovering above our mattresses, because of the heavy movement of the ship. The bridge team was steering our sturdy Ortelius in a magnificent way through the six-meter-plus waves across the Drake Passage. Most of us didn’t mind the rocking as we all appeared for breakfast.

At 09:15 we met up in the bar to hear the insightful lecture by Charlotte, who delved into the fascinating topic of whale feeding behaviour. She explained how various whale species, including Humpbacks and Minkes, use different strategies to feed in the rich waters around Antarctica. Her presentation highlighted the complexity of these behaviours and their adaptation to the extreme environment. Following this, the dive team gave a presentation on diving in Antarctic waters in general. They then shared their unique experiences and photos, offering a slideshow that captured breathtaking underwater shots taken during the trip. The photos showcased vibrant marine life and ice formations, emphasizing the pristine beauty of the Antarctic waters.

In the afternoon, the seas began to calm, offering a more tranquil experience as the ship made its way back to Argentina. Seabirds became more visible around the ship. Among the birds spotted were Fulmars and Cape Petrels, and also the majestic Wandering, Royal, and Black-browed Albatross, their impressive wingspans gliding gracefully behind the ship. The albatrosses effortlessly soared over the sea as the ship moved closer to the end of our journey. Many of us were enjoying this peaceful scene out on deck in the sunshine. It was a perfect conclusion to the expedition.

Yet another varied lunch was prepared for us and then some of  us went packing, others chatted in the lounge. Later in the afternoon we enjoyed the lecture by Sara, who introduced guests to Oceanwide’s other extraordinary destinations. She highlighted the company’s various expeditions in the Arctic region.

At 18:15 we all gathered in the bar for Captain’s farewell, cocktails marked a special moment of celebration. Guests mingled and shared their favourite memories from the trip, while we showed the slideshow that was put together by Jess, using pictures from the whole expedition team. It was showcasing the highlights of the entire expedition. The images captured the breathtaking landscapes, wildlife encounters, and unforgettable moments shared with our fellow travellers.

Dinner that evening was a magnificent final meal on board, a fitting end to an incredible journey. Afterward, the entire crew was introduced, and heartfelt thanks were given for their hard work and dedication throughout the trip. Their professionalism and warmth had made the voyage truly unforgettable, leaving everyone with lasting memories of their Antarctic adventure.

We woke up alongside the pier in Ushuaia. Ortelius had successfully completed the Polar Circle – Deep South voyage. It was a beautiful, but windy morning in Ushuaia. The crew and Expedition Team handled all the luggage and placed it on the dock, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time for disembarkation. The voyage was over, and it was time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our lovely group of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,928 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 66°51.664’ S / 066°48.157’ W (Detaille Island).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Oleksandr Lyebyedyev and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure and a privilege travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expedition Team.